DaveBaxt
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I am assuming you made the spacer on a metal turning lathe . Unfortunately i do not own such a machine but sounds like I could do with a few slitting saws for the Castello wood which I have just ordered. By the way how do you store the wood . End up or somewhere flat. Just want to make sure it doesn't warp?
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Thank you again for helping me out. Funny you should mention Timberline . I have just ordered some Boxwood from them. I have also be getting quite a lot of help from people who I have been following their blogs. One person in particular has build his mast like in the old days and is truely inspiring and hopefully one day perhaps I will get somewhere near. I might try a search before starting another thread but thanks for your advice anyway . Best regards Dave.
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Thank you Gregory I will give this a try. I could do with a few more spares anyway and that is so much less expensive than the Proxxon equivalent.. Best regards Dave
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Thank you Bruce.Thank you for your prompt reply and coming up with a possible solution. Its obvious that I need a lot of practice in the use of this machine and trying your idea might be a solution. The oak was just a give away by a plumber who thought it might be useful. I have other woods at hand such as bass wood. Its is my intention to try lime wood for my masts but eventually thinking of moving onto box wood but the postage fr om Europe to the UK is very expensive. So need to wait until I know how much I need, hence using the lime as a trial run, plus I need the practice. Thank you one again for your time and patience. Best regards Dave
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I apologise for adding more questions to this thread and sorry if this question has been asked elsewhere. When using a Proxxon FET table saw for cutting 45 deg slots I am getting quite a bit of burn. I have tried a medium cutter wheel and a low teeth cutter which has a cutting edge on the side too. Even when cutting at 0 degs I am still getting some chatter,I think its called. Is this purely down to cutting to0 large (20 mm ) a piece of oak , which I think is a very hard wood.Perhaps its just too much for the machine or should I use a different cutting wheel, perhaps with more smaller teeth. I am hoping if anyone has experience with cutting oak or using a Proxxon FET saw. Best regards Dave
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Thank you for the above. I think I get your meaning and I ended up trying something similar, So perhaps I wasn,t accurate enough with measuring the blocks and I did each one seperately and may not have applied the same pressure on each block. It may have been esier if I made individual blocks instead of grouping them all together. I don,t think the 45 deg setting was bang on either.I ended up cutting a groove in the bottom of each slot using a miller.I clearly need to have more practice at using my Proxxon FET table saw as there are probably no end of different applications. Again I would like to thank everyone for time and patience. Best regards Dave
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Yes I have ordered one thank you. Best regards Dave.
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I have thought about I f I was to try this again , I thought about drilling a hole on the other face at the apex of the "V" before machining the groove or I could just machine the bottom of the gtoove using a miller but I now get what you mean. Thank you for your input ,it is greatly appreciated. Best regards Dave
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I would just like to thank every one for giving me different ideas on how to make some 90 deg grooves. I have managed to make something using My Proxxon FET table saw which wasn,t straight forward as I thought due to change the angle of the rotary cutter the scale on the front made it useless so I just has to measure using a square and vernier caliper . So not 100% perfect but not too bad but could do with going over some of the grooves with a flat chisel. It is my intention to try the other methods and compare my results. I need to get my hands on a decent chisel set including the one mentioned by druxey . I have also oredered rotary burr tool to see what sort of results I get with that. . Here is a few photos of the work I produced on my FET table saw. They still need a bit of work with chisel and sanding. Best regards Dave I used some old oak strips I was given so not the easiest to cut so not sure if I had the correct cutter for the job .
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Thank you druxey for giving me another way of doing this and can also look into this. Best regards Dave
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Bruce thanks for the link. If I can't get my hands on a router bit then this is probably something I will go for. However it does not state what the shank diameter is. I will therefore try and ask the supplier and see what he comes up with.Hopefully I will get an answer. If you already have one, perhaps you could let me know the shank size. Best regards Dave
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Thank you Ondras71 for the video and probably a really good way of cutting a 90 deg groove and will bear that i mind, Best regards Dave
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Some good ideas there thank you . Unfortunately I do not own a router but have a table saw which the blade can be adjusted to 45 degs so could try that. I to thought about two planks with a 45 deg chamfer but just thought it would be easier if I could get a 90 deg router bit . So hopefully something will turn up
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Thank you Bruce for the link. I never thought about trying a burr instead of a bit/cutter but I might have to try a burr if I don,t have any joy with the router bits.
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Hello all. I am looking for a router 90 deg Vee bit to fit my Proxxon milling machine. I have the set of the Proxxon router bits which has a Vee type bit No 29 023 https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/tools-router-cutters.php When measuring the angle I have found it to be less than 90 degs . I have searched throughout the internet for several suppliers here in the UK and all of the router bits I have found so far have 6 mm or 1/4" shanks. which is too large for the collets on the Proxxon milling machine, What is needed is a router bit with a 3.2 mm shank.as is the Proxxon bits but non that will give me a 90 deg Vee. I need this router to make a jig for holding square stock for making masts rather than using dowel. Thank you Best regards Dave
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Should be and something I could practice on as it is relatively cheap. Sorry for another question what are you guys using for a jig for holding the square stock whilst shaping. Thank you again for your prompt reply.
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Do Any of you use lime for square stock for masts or any other preference for building masts that is readily available in the uk? I now know that boxwood is available in Europe in sheet form but is quite expensive as is the delivery costs.
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Thanks everyone for what are great replies and for explaining the methods of doing everything by hand . Shipaholic your level of workmanship is truely awe inspiring. Hopefully someday I will also have leaned to achieve such high standards . However after laying out such high costs of purchacing a fair few power tools. I was really hoping that it would be possible to carry out the work using these. However your methods are something I would like to try and will need to source some square stock in a lighter wood as I only have walnut in square stock. I probably need to get a decent small plane as the one I have is just a cheep one. The replies I have received on the thread have really made it worthwhile starting it and something I can save for the future. Once again thank you for giving me a few different ideas. Best regards Dave
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Thank you for clearing that up for me and what looks like it is faiirly straight forward and therefore a great idea and something I would like to try out at some stage.
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Mondfeld v Lees Masting and rigging
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
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Mondfeld v Lees Masting and rigging
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thank you once again Allan for your time. I am indeed getting the general idea and I am beginning to understand why people kit bash or even build from scratch and wonder if I would ever have the skill to get to that level. It must take a few years to learn every thing there is to know without considering the level of skill required. The latter being something which I believe I have left too late in life. Best regards Dave -
Thank you Roger for your input it is greatly appreciated, however I do not fully understand your methods. I get the bit about the tapered pieces but unfortunately my saw does not have a miter gauge so its difficult for me to grasp your idea. I don,t suppose you posses such a thing as a photograph or perhaps a link . Please forgive my ignorance and slow uptake and your patience in this is appreciated. Best regards Dave
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Mondfeld v Lees Masting and rigging
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Wow Allan if these are Toy models I wonder how difficult the real models are.I think they might be beyond my scope! -
I am now approaching the building of the mast and my questions is in the main regarding the lower mast and how to make these with the help of power tools quite possibly for exampl a Milling machine with a rotating head, together with a wood turning lathe or quite possibly a rotary table saw. When using the afore mentioned tools how are you securing the work piece when machine the flats for the cheeks and hounds. ie how to get the correct taper etc. Machining the square flats at the mast tops etc. Is it easier to start with square or round material when using such power tools . Are there any tips/trick which will help to make realistic masts bearing in mind some masts have sections which have octogons as does yards. Perhaps there are a few modelers who would be kind enough to explain their own process or giving a link to a specific build whereby these procedures are explained or just show some good photos. I appreciate I am asking a lot here but just thought it would be a good idea to have a discussion, all in one place. Best regards Dave
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