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DaveBaxt

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  1. DaveBaxt
    Nice work and good to see a different view of the Endeavour and her internal structure and at a larger scale. Keep up the excellent work and I look forward to your future progress.
  2. DaveBaxt
    I have not been on here for a while(taking a break from modelling) but great to be back and take a look at your progress and continued exceptional workmanship. I really like your approach to the standing rigging and looking forward to your method of tackling the running rigging and what you include? I am assuming you won't be adding any sails. Best regards Dave and thank you once again for sharing your work with us.
  3. DaveBaxt
    Great question and You are not alone and even after riigging my first ship and by the time I got to my second ship I am still finding it somewhat difficult. Fortunately a lot of what I did on my first model is still in my head somewhere. I have sinse obtained a few books which have been previously recommended by guys on here and I have found them of great value as well has help from the people on this forum. On my first model I left out a lot of the running rigging and only fitted that which secured the masts ( Standing rigging) and those which controlled the yards. (Lifts, parrels,brace and for hoisting the yards).I found this for me was difficult enough. Hopefully on my second ship I will fit more of the running rigging which will include the Clew,Sheet and tacklines .The main problem I am having is which ropes to leave out, if the sails are not fitted but hopefully will eventually get there in the end as will you as I am sure. Good luck with your endevour. Dave
  4. DaveBaxt
    After taking another look at the Lees book and the Drawings supplied by the kit (Caldercraft) it would appear you are correct, and also that the drawings supplied look to be surprisingly accurate apart from the yard tackle looks to be left out.Thank you once again Allan for your help and quick response .Best regards dave
  5. DaveBaxt
    Nice to see a variety in different types of models and kits. We have a modelling club here in Washington (England) which a lot of guys are building this kind of thing. and I am thinking of joining.I have tried a couple of these kits mainly with the Grandson but they didn,t turn out too good. Sorry I have not followed you of late but trying to catch up with what you have been working on. I am wondering where you are thinking of going next as you definately have a much varied experience. I look foreward to your progress. Andrew. Best regards Dave
  6. DaveBaxt
    Great work on those square holes and wondered how you managed something so small with just using micro files?
  7. DaveBaxt
    This is only the second square rigger I have attempted to build and still trying to get my head around the running rigging and how much is needed to fit when not adding the sails to the model. On my last build the Bounty by Amati I only fitted that which controlled the yards and not which was required for the sails as well. I also left out the yard tackles too.This time I would like to add as much as possible including Cluelines,Leechlines and Buntlines. My question is this. Is it therefore practical to fit these together with any other such as the tacks and sheets which I understand, control the sails or are these lines stowed away with the sails and should not be fitted to the model. Please forgive my ignorance for what may seem a basic question as I have researched quite a number of books but as yet the penny has not dropped, sort of speak. Thank you once again for your patience and guidance. Best regards Dave
  8. DaveBaxt
    Nice to see you continuing with excellent workmanship and the cannons are no exception. I particularly like how you made the Quoins. Great job.
  9. DaveBaxt
    I know the feeling and have done this a number of times myself. There are an awful lot of Davids on here too, which dosn,t help Ha ha
  10. DaveBaxt
    Cheers Allan. I found part of what I am looking for from the pages you gave me annd another part on Andersons book 'The Rigging of Ships' I got a very good reply from David Lester on the How to. I would just like to thank everyone for their replys. Best regards Dave
  11. DaveBaxt
    Thank you David, that is exactly the kind of thing I have been looking for and looks like a pretty good way of doing it. Best regards Dave .
  12. DaveBaxt
    yes it is for the Endeavour but do not have Lever or Steel and also AOTS but do have the lees book but as yet I have not been able to find what I am looking for but will take another look .I have looked at a few builds of the Endeavour and most of which show the Brace pendents outside of the yard arm and the and lifts on the inside . I am assuming, as the braces have larger ropes and blocks and therefore assuming have the greater forces this would make sense .ie the greatest leverage At least my way of thinking but correct me if I am wrong. Most drawings I seem to find have the braces and lifts on different pages/sheets and show them in similar positions. Thanks again for your quick response. Kind Regards Dave
  13. DaveBaxt
    I am now more or less ready to start on fitting pendants and various rigging to the yards and wondered how the best/easiest way to attach the lift and sheet blocks to the yard? Any tips on how to achieve this or any links to previuos threads would be great.I have managed ok to attach lift blocks without the sheet blocks by seizing two loops then tightening up around the block and yard but although I am probably won,t fit sails on this model I would still like to attach the correct blocks/ rigging that is authentic. Thank you and best regards Dave. P.S. Another question I can,t seem to answer when rigging the yards is the position of the lifts and braces. Are there any rules as to where these should be place on the yard. Which one of these is generally the nearest to the end of the yard or is this different for different yards?
  14. DaveBaxt
    Sam Although you are probably already aware regarding the channels. A few modelers including myself have had issues with the kits channels, especially the mizzen mast channels not being deep enough and the hieght of the mizzen mast being too short. Make sure that the depth of the channels is sufficient so that the shrouds clear the capping rails. Forgive me if you are already aware of this but thought it might save you some work. Hope this is of help. Dave
  15. DaveBaxt
    Some really nice work Sam and coming along nicely. I really like the look of those rubbing strakes for the anchors and looks very professional. Keep up the good work and I look forward to following your progress.
  16. DaveBaxt
  17. DaveBaxt
    Sorry I have not been able to update my Endeavour for a good few months over the summer but have been busy elsewhere . I am now ready to progress and have been taking stock of the progress I have made. One thing I am still not happy with is the final ships boat which is the Skiff 107.22 mm which would make the scaled up version, just over 22 ft. I have been looking at Chris Wattons from Vanguard Models 22ft cutter and I wonder if I could use this instead? I have looked at Vanguard models website to see if Chris has added the boats for the Endeavour, please forgive me if I am incorrect but as yet this doesn,t appear to be the case. I still need to carry out a number of things to the yards ,masts and bits and bobs etc before starting on the rigging but hoping to make a start on the rigging soon.
  18. DaveBaxt
    I haven,t been back to see your progress for some time but coming along really nicely. Some great work on the planking there. Well done Sam!
  19. DaveBaxt
    I have not been here for a while and just catching up on your build. Fantastic workmanship, especially on those knees. Keep up the good work.
  20. DaveBaxt
    What a great question and some great in depth answers not to metion the timing. I am almost ready to start the rigging of the Endeavour and hopefully there is enough help here to get me through the twisting of shrouds and deadeyes. I think I had this problem on my last build and thought I overcome this problem with applying pva glue which is probably not ideal. Thankyou for raising this question and to everyone who have participated in this subject.
  21. DaveBaxt
    Thank you everyone for your help regarding the Quadhands and it looks like I will just have to try the 4 hand one and hopefully the one with the smaller base plate has a sufficiently strong enough magnetic strength. However I have come across a similar one to the 4 quadhand and has a much more acceptable price and has a mostly very good reviews which clear up a few concerns I have such as strong magnets and stiff arms. So think I will probably try this one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fstop-Labs-Soldering-Magnetic-Flexible/dp/B07W42SR65/ref=sr_1_10?crid=GT9A4OGC0RXT&keywords=quadhands+electronics+holder&qid=1654840518&sprefix=Quad+hands%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-10 Best regards Dave
  22. DaveBaxt
    Thank you Justine for your quick response. I have neen looking into the quadhands and had a look at your link and your way of doing the deadeyes is possibly something I would like to try and looks a great way of doing it as well as some great photos. However, as you say they are a bit on the expensive side here in the uk, especially the one with the 5 hands/arms. I can get one for £58 but has 4 hands, the model you have is double the price of that which only has 4 arms here in the uk, which seems a lot of more money just for one extra arm. So I am wondering if there is something else which is different but not obvious between the two models. Hopefully someone else would like to comment if they have bought one of models with 4 arms here in the uk.. Thank you once again for your help. Best regards dave
  23. DaveBaxt
    Hello. I thought I might try one of these to help with rigging blocks and other jobs and just wondered if anyone is using these for rigging blocks etc and other jobs and perhaps ca recommend one for this type of work here in the uk. My only concern would be the strength of the magnets on the feet and are they strong enough to stop any movement. Best regards Dave.
  24. DaveBaxt
    Thank you Sam for helping me out with the Soldering and I agree that is what I origonally thought and perhaps I should spend a bit more time trying to heat up the tube a bit more before adding the solder as hopefully I should have a big enough torch as it is made by Dremmel and I understand is a good make. I have still got a couple of more to make ( for the lower stunsail booms attached to the main channels) so will have another go as I would much prefer to solder them, although using the appoxy resin made a fairly strong job. Regards the History of model ships by Mondfeld ,I believe is a pretty decent book for all parts of the ship and has some fairly good drawings and was one of the first books I bought and wouldn,t be without it. However since then I came across the Lees book annd got it second hand. It comes highly recommended by a number of people on here and understand it is the go to book for measuremnets and other matters concerned with masting and rigging. The Mondfeld book has also been suggested by other modelers on this forum and I am sure you won,t be disapointed. Thank you once again for your input and help which is very much appreciated. Dave
  25. DaveBaxt
    Thank you Andrew

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