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DaveBaxt

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  1. DaveBaxt
    Hope your method works out for you. Further to what Allan has suggested .If you get a chance have a look at Chucks videos on marking off the planks then cutting them to fit . Also not forgetting edge ways bending. with a bit of practice the planks will fit much better. Sorry if you are already aware of this otherwise.I hope this helps. Keep up the good work. Best regards Dave
  2. DaveBaxt
    I tried pencil first but it did not work for me but ended up using permanent marker and just doing one at a time. This sounds like a long process but one you get the hang of it it is not too bad. I ave since tried this on Tanganika wood as well as walnut and it works fine on both. What ever wood you are using try it out on a few test pieces and the try using what ever you are using on top ie varnish , sand and seal to ensure the dried permanent marker doesnt spread into the grain when mixed with your top coat of choice. I used sand & sealer and it worked fine for me. Good luck and let us know how you get on. Dave
  3. DaveBaxt
    I tried pencil first but it did not work for me but ended up using permanent marker and just doing one at a time. This sounds like a long process but one you get the hang of it it is not too bad. I ave since tried this on Tnganika wood as well as walnut and it works fine on both. What ever wood you are using try it out on a few test peices and the try using what ever you are using on top ie varnish , sand and seal to ensure the dried permanent marker doesnt speread into the grain when mixed with your top coat of choice. I used sand & sealer and it worked fine for me. Good luck and let us know how you get on. Dave
  4. DaveBaxt
    That sounds like a rally easy way to make one and something I will need to do if I make any models larger than the Endeavour. I have just managed to make a practice one, with the help of a miller and lathe. However I am limited to the length I can support the mast when using the miller and lathe. Here is a photo . Not perfect but only a trial run. I still need to taper mast a bit more and mill the flats for the cheeks. I have worked out the taper and then I have milled steps and finished off with a file. It worked out pretty well. I haven't had a chance to have a look at your easy way to do the mast but I will report back after I have had a chance to have a look. Allan you have been more than helpful and I appreciate all that you have done for me.Thank you . Dave
  5. DaveBaxt
    Thanks Allan . I think that is what I meant as regards the height of the mizzen mast. I have just had a quick look at the last drawing you sent me and can see how complicated that the mast is put together and would like to try and make them like that in the future but for now ,I am not sure I have skills to build a mast like that. I have only just started trying building masts form square stock for the first time .it has definately given me a better idea of how its all put together though so should be to make a compromised mast ,if that makes sense. For the record the scale I am working to is, 1:64. What scale is the drawing you sent me. Best regards Dave
  6. DaveBaxt
    Thank you Allan for that excellent drawing which I can study at leasure. Regards the length of the Mizzen. I do believe you are correct. It is an error and I previously asked the question on another thread. I had problems with the shrouds clearing the bulwarks which was kindly pointed out to me by Shipaholic that the mizzen cap should reach the top of the main mast . Also Reference to Lees book also says it is much longer than what is suggested by Caldercraft. Thank you once again for efforts and patience for helping me clarify this. Best regards Dave
  7. DaveBaxt
    Thanks Allan that is really kind of you to take the time to do a drawing for me and hopefully I will then be able to get my head around it. It is interest how you say that there is a recess in the mast where the trestlle trees fit, that is if I get your meaning. When working out the taper of the mast at that particular and then doing the square on the top the square at that point is 7.1mm wide but the distance between the trestle trees is only 6 mm . So if I want to use the trestle trees supplied by Caldercraft then I will need to make a recess in the mast or make new trestle trees. Also the taper of the mast of 7.3 mm is required so that when made flat the cheeks should fit. Hope this makes sense. I have a number of scrap bits of dowel to practice on before I make the real thing from square boxwood stock. When reading the piece you sent me I noticed that a block was mentioned but I am not aware of such a thing or come across this. Perhaps you have an idea as then perhaps I would get what its all about.Best regards Dave
  8. DaveBaxt
    Thank you Allan but please forgive my ignorance fornot being able to comprehend your last piece as although I have read it twice I find as yet I am unable to follow that. Perhaps I need more time to follow that but for what its worth I too came up with the length of the cheeks being half the distance between the partners and the stops. I am assuming the stops are the underside of the trestle trees and the hounds are finishing at the same place. Perhaps you could clear up one matter for me is regarding the top and the cap and allowing for the rake of the mast. I am assumimg these are both parallel with the deck or waterline rather than 90 degs to the mast ? Sorry again for not following your last paragraph (Italics) Hopefully given time the penny will drop but I thank you once again for your effort and patience in trying to help me. Best regards Dave
  9. DaveBaxt
    Thank you Allan for that drawing which is further evidence showing what the relationship between the cheeks and the hounds. Interesting what that you mention the groove and that most modellers leave it out. I have neither come ocross it in photos or heard it mentioned by other modellers but interesting all the same and now knowing it is there. Much appreciated. Best regards Dave
  10. DaveBaxt
    Thank you for clearing that up for me and where to get more information. Best regards Dave
  11. DaveBaxt
    Thank you once again Druxey for clearing that up for me . Best regards Dave
  12. DaveBaxt
    As far as I can see form Lees book" The Masting and rigging of English ships of War" for that period the Cheeks extend from the hounds to midway between the hounds and the partners, however l am unsure where the cheeks finish at the tops. Do they extend to the top of the hounds where the trestle trees sit on top of the cheeks, so that the Hounds fit over the cheeks. Or do the cheeks terminate at the bottom of the hounds so that the trestle trees sit on top of the hounds. One other way which looks to be that the hounds are part of the cheeks (Monfeld "Historic Ship Models) Seems there are a few different ways this can be achieved, but what is the most accurate for this period.Best regards Dave
  13. DaveBaxt
    Nice to see another recent build log of the Endeavour. Looking good so far. Good luck with this build and I look forward to watching your progress.
  14. DaveBaxt
    terrific looking paint job Anderw. Are you using brushes and or airbrush. If so can I ask what equipment you are using. Very professional. Best regards Dave
  15. DaveBaxt
    I got my order in yesterday from Timberline and I did what you suggested and gave them a call. A few hours later they returned the call and have added in the 8 mm stock and they have posted it all together so hopefully it should be with me in the next few days. So far they have been a very good service. So once again Thank you No Idea. I am sure others too will be thankful for your heads up on this one. Best regards Dave
  16. DaveBaxt
    Thank you Bruce and Sound advice as I am feeling a bit doped up at the moment. Just trying to go over everything I have learned in the last few days. Its like being back at school. Haha.
  17. DaveBaxt
    I think he meant a spacer to change the interenal diameter from the FET saw blades 10mm to the diameter of the blades used by a Byrnes saw ,so you can then use their blades. I would be interested to know a bit more about your spacer/adaptor for cutting the Castello Boxwood. I don,t suppose you have a photo ?
  18. DaveBaxt
    Not been on for a while but haven't been idle. Tried my hand at making the long boat and still working on the pinnace. Not too bad for very first attempt at building such a thing but still want to use Chris Wattons boats when they arrive I have also been looking ahead to constructing the masts and have decided to use square stock instead of dowel and also use castello boxwood which is readily available here in the uk. I have also made a station for turning the square stock into an octagon section and bought myself a decent miniture Veritas plane to carry out the finer work on the yards etc. This is the first time I will have tried this, so hopefully it turns out ok. Here is a photo of my station. It will also double up as a honing station , once my guides turn up for my planes. The 90 deg grooves on the blocks were produced using my Proxxon FET table saw and the long small 90 degree V was produced using the Proxxon 90 deg router head.
  19. DaveBaxt
    I will give it a quick run through some wood and see how the square masts sit in there . Maybe I should have tried this before posting this thread and wasting every ones time. However I have no regrets starting this discussion as it has lead me into all kinds of directions and to some great information. For the moment however I have just tested positive for Covid and feeling a bit rough. Fortunately I have had three doses of vaccines so hopefully will be well enough to carry on modelling and it will be an excuse to self isolate in my workshop for 5 days or more. So hopefully something good will come out of this pandemic or at least for me . Best regards Dave
  20. DaveBaxt
    Mark I already own this set. However when I measured the angle of the cutter it is quite a bit less than 90 deg. But wondering if it may work anyway ? Thank you once again for all your help. Best regards Dave
  21. DaveBaxt
  22. DaveBaxt
    Great stuff and thank you for your help. I have just had a quick look and they offer 40mm diameter which I assume will be fine even though it is half the size of the Proxxon saw blades (80mm) .Best regards Dave
  23. DaveBaxt
  24. DaveBaxt
    Fantastic. Just had a quick look at the Castello Boxwood. Lots of data/information. A lot of which went over the top of my head, However a least I can make a few comparisons. At some stage I will need to find out what the different terms actually mean. But once again thank you for all your help. Best regards Dave
  25. DaveBaxt
    Thank you once again Gregory. I have just had a quick look and they don,t seem to have anything with a 10mm bore. So unless I have a spacer. I will however do as you have suggested and send them an email and see what they come up with. I do have in my spares a rotary saw blade with 300 teeth . So would this be classed as a slitting saw and could be used for the likes of Castello Boxwood? Just a thought.Best regards Dave

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