DaveBaxt
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I have see model builders using weathering products to make the ships look more authentic rather than when the ship was newly built. My last and only two ships the bottoms were painted and my next one the Endeavour is also to be painted brown as per instructions . I have now come across the use of Tung oil to enhance the grain of the finished wood and I would imagine this would give the wood a sheen too. If I made a good job of the second planking .Is it a shame to cover it up with paint but rather enhance the lovely walnut wood? However is this taking away the reality of the model and making it look rather like a piece of furniture? Your thoughts on this would be appreciated. Best regards Dave
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Bow & Stern blocks
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you mark for all your input and for helping me with what is the bestway forward and in some way undestanding why and how is the best mateials to use. I think understanding which is the best woods to use in a subject in its own right and needs careful study. I am still learnig stuff about this hobby on a daily basis . Best regards Dave -
Bow & Stern blocks
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you mark for explaining the shrinkage of wood and fascinated at how it does this. As for plywood I have just spent a lot of time straightening out a plywood keel on my HM Bark Endeavour but eventually I got there with building a jig and fitting extra support pieces see my blog if you have I am therefore a bit reluctant to use ply for this purpose and could it cause problems later down the line or is it ok as it would not be allowed to move if used for blocks.Best regards Dave -
Finishhed glueing and pining the deck to the bulkeads and keel whilst everything in line whilst in the jig and hey presto a straight keel. I am over the moon and should hopefully remain so whilst laying planks alternatively port and stbd
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Bow & Stern blocks
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you Gregory and I see what you mean and that would work. Best regards Dave -
Bow & Stern blocks
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks Mark I hadn,t thought of that but good idea. I have done a quick search and found lots of outlets that sell blocks of basswood for carving etc and thought these would be ideal however I wonder does it make any difference which way the blocks are fitted ie does it matter if the end of the blocks are what will be the surface to glue the planks onto? One well known model shop here in uk sells different thickness basswood ply would and think this wood work well too. Perhaps if purchased from model shop the plywood would be ok to use straight away. Whats your thoughts on this Mark? -
Bow & Stern blocks
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks guys for your input, so it looks like bass wood is the way to go however this SPF sounds interesting too so may search about here in the uk. Best regards Dave -
Bow & Stern blocks
DaveBaxt replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
That sounds like a good way to do this but could be a little tricky as I have already fitted sections for strengthening but definately worth considering for my next build. I could also consider building a model with frames. Thanks once again for your help . Dave -
After looking at several different build logs I have come to the conclusion that a few people including my self, have experienced problems keeping a nice curve with the first layer of planks, not at the bow where you would normally fit blocks, but just aft of the bow and between two bulk heads and under the water line. This seems to me to be between two bulkheads with the greatest change in shape ans usually before the second layer of planks is fitted this flat area is then built up with filler to get the correct shape. My question is ,does anyone use shaped blocks in this area the same as in the bow and stern to help maintain this nice curve? Also I have been using balsa wood for the blocks but find pins do not hold too well and wonder if there is a better wood which can be used, perhaps mdf can be used for this? Hope I am making sense and people understand where I mean on the hull. Best regards Dave
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I know I am some way from the masts but all the dowels are white wood and just wondering what sort of wood it is and wonder why not Walnut ? It will therefore be necessary to stain or paint some of the masts and yards . I have some walnut dowel in my stock so will probably change the masts which are not painted for walnut . Is there any other reason for not doing this other than the extra costs. I have tried staining lime before using a walnut wood dye and didn,t like the finished look although I am not sure if the supplied dowel is lime. Any ideas? Also found most of the smaller dowels 6mm and under are also warped. Not too impressed with the kit wood so far. I wonder if it would be better to order directly from Caldercraft as I we don,t know how old the kit has been stored at the retailers.
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Started gluing and pining the decks after removing some material at the aft end of the slot in the bulkhead to allow the mast to now fit. I tried to take measurements from one of the plans of the deck layout but I don't think they are to scale. I also fitted 4 strips of 5x5 mm walnut to support the lower deck in the mid ship area. This was not in the instruction but just thought the deck needed this. Once the glue dries I intend to remove the pins
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I am beginning to think that its almost impossible to get the plywood keel flat again without some form of support and once that support is remove will always deflect a smaller amount back to its warped condition. Just hoping I have done enough to not cause any issues later on down the line.
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Just did a dry fit of the deck pieces and noticed that the fwd mast hole does not line up with the alocated slot. I will need to check the drawings to see what is the correct position. I think I will be easier to move the slot in the false keel than move the hole as it is only about 1 mm but we shall see.
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I agree and think it is all part of the hobby. My last build the Bounty was not without issues as well . The main one being the holes in the deck did not line up with the mast and hit a bulkhead and that was rather interesting sorting that one out .I am beginning to wonder if there is always one or two problems with all kits or is it just me. Rather than be put of I am hoping to build more ships from Caldercraft .So if I have any further issues regards a warped keel I now have the evidence to prove the extent I have gone to, in order to straighten the keel. I see you you have come up with another way of straightening a keel with the two glass plates and sound interesting. How long was the keel in the plastic bag for? If your not in any hurry to start might be the way forward . In the end how successful was this?
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After having another look at it I don,t think it is too far away and to be fair to Caldercraft I haven,t as yet glued the deck on yet as this is what he instructed me to do. So will carry on the way I am going and see how it goes. Your advice may well be the wise thing to do but having got this far it will be interesting to see how it turns out. I may however regret my decision only time will tell. I will attach the decks and think a bit more. Thank you once again for all your help it is much appreciated. Best regards Dave
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All bulkheads set up square using clamps and lego bricks. Glued into position and allowed to dry over night. Keel looked straight as a die but then removed from the jig you could still see a lttle bit of a curve at each end of the keel. So have decided to glue in some 90 deg pieces in between the bulkheads whilst in the jig and glue in the forward blocks to aid bending the blocks around the buff bow in the hope this will aid the straightening of the keel. I allowed the glue to dry overnight and once again when removed from the jig , although improved it is still not 100 % . I think the next stage will be to glue and pin the deck into position and see where we are then. I I am not sure if there is much more that I can do. I am thinking of fitting some blocks aft which may help I could also fit some 12mm x 12 mm walnut strips at the bottom, on each side of the keel and in between the bulheads but unsure if this would make much difference. When looking at the keel from the top it looks straight to me so once I pin the deck perhaps this should be good enough.
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HMS Diana by ECK - Caldercraft - 1:64
DaveBaxt replied to ECK's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
The Amati Victory sounds interesting. I am far from an expert on anything to do with Amati but generally speaking I think the wood in general is high quality than the Caldercraft stuff. However I did have an issue with the clips for the lower dead eyes were pretty useless and wish I had changed them for the Caldercraft, however someone with your experience might not have the same issue. I think the instruction for amati were ok but the drawings for the rigging were way off for the period of ship (Bounty) After lots of head scratching and loads of stuff I had to do again I finally got there . I might one day go back and build another Bounty but there is so many yo choose from . Thanks for taking the time to do a great blog for us to follow. Best regards Dave and keep up the excellent work. -
HMS Diana by ECK - Caldercraft - 1:64
DaveBaxt replied to ECK's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
You have a fantastic collection of models and definately something to aspire to. The Diana is definately one of the models I would like to build in the future but as I am just a beginner fI elt I should like to build something smaller first. I have just completed the Bounty by Amati but have now just started on the Endeavour and just moved onto Caldercraft. I would like to tag along if I may as I think I could learn a lot form your construction techniques? I also see you have also built the Agermemnon which is another one I would be interested in building once I have honed my skills somewhat. However as I haven,t yet built a war ship as such I thought I would probably be better off going for the snake first. What are your thoughts of the Caldercraft range as I see you have tried a few different manufacturers? I hope you don,t mind me adding these questions to your blog and perhaps I should have sent you a message instead. Sorry! if that is the case Best regards Dave -
I am originally from South Shields and grew up there but have now lived in Washington for 35 years so not too far from you..
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Thank you spyglass for explaining that to me and I think I have pretty much got the idea now so fingers crossed I should hopefully be ok. As far as lego is concerned I will definately be on the look out for those flat square pieces as that seems to make the job even easier. I wont need to get in a tangle with all those clamps.Ha ha. However to be fair, the ones I have got seem to be doing a pretty good job as I keep checking everything is square and that the keel is nice and straight.
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As I have decided to take Caldercrafts advice a not fit a rabbet and spyglass advice and leave the keel strn and stem posts until I have fared the bulkheads I have made a start on gluing the bulkheads into position. I might be a bit overkill with the clamps but I wanted to make sure everything is square and the grandsons lego bricks came in hand .Great idea by the way who first came up with that. I will wait about an hour for the glue to have a good hold and then move onto the next one checking all the while to make sure all is square.I also packed the base underneath so that it would sit flat on my worktop bench as suggested by Spyglass . I think this has pleased my wife as I am now out of the kitchen
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I like your idea and think your idea will probably work so will be thinking of that working better than what Amati were instrucing me to do on my last model as I remember having trouble with the rudder brackets/pins as they were to small after adding 0.5 planks to rudderpost and rudder, If I go your way there would be no need to plank the rudder post and rudder. When you say terminate the planks early .Is that at the bearding line ? What does the second planking look like when completed. Can you get a nice smooth flow over where the planks are terminated? Regards the pedistal stand . I bought one for my last model but could not get the model to sit straight due to not drilling it square.Unfortunately I did not own a drill stand at the time. I am currently thinking of buying one at some stage . I have also been considering a milling machine. The Proxxon MF70. but in two minds is it worth the extra expense and if it is too early in the hobby for me. Once again I thank you for your invaluable help. Best regards Dave
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Update completed buiding jig and cut ou the sections to allow the bulkhead to go all the way down and flush at the deck. placing the bulkheads into postion there is still a small amount of deflection at the top of the false keel but is easy to push into position. I will see how this looks when I glue all the bulkheads and clamp them to the keel making every thing square . If the top of the keel is still out a bit I will then have to use some block of wood in th corners and between the bulkheads in the the hope this will complete the job.
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Ok so moving on and before I start thinking about glueing any of the bulkheads, the bearding line needs a bit of thought. According to the drawing the stern,stem posts are glued into position, however I think I will wait until after the bulkheads have been faired ,so as not to damage them. Now the stem post is 5 mm and the thickness of both planks on either side is also ( 1mm + 1.5mm) x 2 =5mm so I would end up with no would left on the false bulkhead. One possible solution would be to remove enough wood from the deadwood area for the first planking ie 2 x 1.5mm so leaving 2mm min on the deadwood area remaining. Then planking the stern and post with the second 1mm planking . It would also be necessary to plank the keel and stem post so all would be flush. II did the above on my last model and it all worked out pretty well. I also ended up planking the rudder post too. I wonder if there is any other solutions as nothing is indicated in the instructions or the drawings.
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