jct

Hi folks...today's update
Decided to work on the belfry, here's a shot of the plan view I was trying to replicate, the curved top being the challenge 
 
Started by tracing the curve from the plans to a piece of scrap basswood and giving it a ride through the bandsaw...

which left me with  couple bending forms, to clamp around soaked basswood
left it overnight to dry

here's the original piece...unfortunately the bend did not hold and within a few hours was almost flat, so I repeated the process but this time laminated the basswood strip with walnut veneer, this was successful...you can see the completed pieces below
the uprights had notches filed in them to accept the cross beam...
 here's the glue up
and the finished piece...  
the paint is still wet...thus the shine...still have to figure how I want to do the bell, may just turn a chunk of styrene, got plenty laying around
thx to all for the likes 
 
 

This will be my last entry for a couple weeks heading out of town...

Hi folks...today's update
Decided to work on the belfry, here's a shot of the plan view I was trying to replicate, the curved top being the challenge 
 
Started by tracing the curve from the plans to a piece of scrap basswood and giving it a ride through the bandsaw...

which left me with  couple bending forms, to clamp around soaked basswood
left it overnight to dry

here's the original piece...unfortunately the bend did not hold and within a few hours was almost flat, so I repeated the process but this time laminated the basswood strip with walnut veneer, this was successful...you can see the completed pieces below
the uprights had notches filed in them to accept the cross beam...
 here's the glue up
and the finished piece...  
the paint is still wet...thus the shine...still have to figure how I want to do the bell, may just turn a chunk of styrene, got plenty laying around
thx to all for the likes 
 
 

Hi folks...today's update
Decided to work on the belfry, here's a shot of the plan view I was trying to replicate, the curved top being the challenge 
 
Started by tracing the curve from the plans to a piece of scrap basswood and giving it a ride through the bandsaw...

which left me with  couple bending forms, to clamp around soaked basswood
left it overnight to dry

here's the original piece...unfortunately the bend did not hold and within a few hours was almost flat, so I repeated the process but this time laminated the basswood strip with walnut veneer, this was successful...you can see the completed pieces below
the uprights had notches filed in them to accept the cross beam...
 here's the glue up
and the finished piece...  
the paint is still wet...thus the shine...still have to figure how I want to do the bell, may just turn a chunk of styrene, got plenty laying around
thx to all for the likes 
 
 

Thx Sam...I think you will find them useful 😁

Thx Sam...I think you will find them useful 😁

Great idea J, never thought of that. I have a couple of stain glass stores in reasonable close proximity to me, will have to try them out.
Sam

Hi Dave
Any stained glass supply place would carry them, but with that said... those stores have gotten few and far between around my area, here's an amazon link for those interested
 Stained glass pattern shears

Hi Dave
Any stained glass supply place would carry them, but with that said... those stores have gotten few and far between around my area, here's an amazon link for those interested
 Stained glass pattern shears

Hi Dave
Any stained glass supply place would carry them, but with that said... those stores have gotten few and far between around my area, here's an amazon link for those interested
 Stained glass pattern shears

THX to all participants...a little more to add
Today I was working on the "iron" banding, for this I broke out a specialized tool not used for shipbuilding so much but priceless for glass work, they are pattern cutting shears...three bladed scissors that remove a fixed width of material in the center.   For glass this leaves space in your patterns for the came between the pieces.  I use them here to cut card stock to a perfectly uniform width
 



here you see some painted black

and applied to the windlass to simulate the iron banding

and here as hinges
Applied poly to the finished deck furniture...still have to build the belfry, pumps, and the Charlie Noble, among other odds and ends

THX to all participants...a little more to add
Today I was working on the "iron" banding, for this I broke out a specialized tool not used for shipbuilding so much but priceless for glass work, they are pattern cutting shears...three bladed scissors that remove a fixed width of material in the center.   For glass this leaves space in your patterns for the came between the pieces.  I use them here to cut card stock to a perfectly uniform width
 



here you see some painted black

and applied to the windlass to simulate the iron banding

and here as hinges
Applied poly to the finished deck furniture...still have to build the belfry, pumps, and the Charlie Noble, among other odds and ends

THX to all participants...a little more to add
Today I was working on the "iron" banding, for this I broke out a specialized tool not used for shipbuilding so much but priceless for glass work, they are pattern cutting shears...three bladed scissors that remove a fixed width of material in the center.   For glass this leaves space in your patterns for the came between the pieces.  I use them here to cut card stock to a perfectly uniform width
 



here you see some painted black

and applied to the windlass to simulate the iron banding

and here as hinges
Applied poly to the finished deck furniture...still have to build the belfry, pumps, and the Charlie Noble, among other odds and ends

Very cool!  And handy, too.  Where can you buy them?

THX to all participants...a little more to add
Today I was working on the "iron" banding, for this I broke out a specialized tool not used for shipbuilding so much but priceless for glass work, they are pattern cutting shears...three bladed scissors that remove a fixed width of material in the center.   For glass this leaves space in your patterns for the came between the pieces.  I use them here to cut card stock to a perfectly uniform width
 



here you see some painted black

and applied to the windlass to simulate the iron banding

and here as hinges
Applied poly to the finished deck furniture...still have to build the belfry, pumps, and the Charlie Noble, among other odds and ends

THX to all participants...a little more to add
Today I was working on the "iron" banding, for this I broke out a specialized tool not used for shipbuilding so much but priceless for glass work, they are pattern cutting shears...three bladed scissors that remove a fixed width of material in the center.   For glass this leaves space in your patterns for the came between the pieces.  I use them here to cut card stock to a perfectly uniform width
 



here you see some painted black

and applied to the windlass to simulate the iron banding

and here as hinges
Applied poly to the finished deck furniture...still have to build the belfry, pumps, and the Charlie Noble, among other odds and ends

THX to all participants...a little more to add
Today I was working on the "iron" banding, for this I broke out a specialized tool not used for shipbuilding so much but priceless for glass work, they are pattern cutting shears...three bladed scissors that remove a fixed width of material in the center.   For glass this leaves space in your patterns for the came between the pieces.  I use them here to cut card stock to a perfectly uniform width
 



here you see some painted black

and applied to the windlass to simulate the iron banding

and here as hinges
Applied poly to the finished deck furniture...still have to build the belfry, pumps, and the Charlie Noble, among other odds and ends

A bit more to add...thanks to all who've commented or hit the like button...much appreciated 
The comings were painted the red ochre mix but the grates left natural, a sure test of my cut-in skills ...the grates were stained with a natural stain...poly will follow latersorry for the lousy focus 
the deck houses and binnacle were painted as well

along with the windlass cheeks

two coats of tallow were applied the the hull bottom...
the rest of the hull paint will be added over the course of the week...I want this stuff to have plenty of time to cure out...this is infamous model shipways paint but thinned with iso and distilled water (50,25,25 ratio), seems to make a difference in how it lays down

A bit more to add...thanks to all who've commented or hit the like button...much appreciated 
The comings were painted the red ochre mix but the grates left natural, a sure test of my cut-in skills ...the grates were stained with a natural stain...poly will follow latersorry for the lousy focus 
the deck houses and binnacle were painted as well

along with the windlass cheeks

two coats of tallow were applied the the hull bottom...
the rest of the hull paint will be added over the course of the week...I want this stuff to have plenty of time to cure out...this is infamous model shipways paint but thinned with iso and distilled water (50,25,25 ratio), seems to make a difference in how it lays down

Hi All,
 
Just a quick update.
 
Below is the resin wheels and disc brakes and the kit front undercarriage all cleaned up.  There is a supplied piece of PE to replace the kit A-Arm at the top but decided not to use it.

 
Here is all the undercarriage parts and wheel well doors almost ready for prime.  I still have to clean up the filler used for some small ejection pin marks.  I will prime everything in 1500 surfacer.
 
I also did the decals on the port side and came out not to bad.  The problematic nose decal went down a lot better this time around as knew what to expect this time.  Still a couple of touch ups needed.  The nose decal is a different shape from the artwork so will need to extend the anti glare black from the canopy forward inline with the front of the red. 
I will need to also touch up with some red to meet the canopy black and will need to touch up with red on the underside where the decals meet but other than that pretty chuffed how it turned out.  That’s the decals complete other than a couple on each wheel.

 
Just a quick mock-up of the cockpit. The cockpit PE top trim can just be made out (not glued yet) and a couple of coloured PE side consoles attach to this.  Still got bits and pieces to add to the seat also.  The yellow ‘rubber’ seals are actually decals and went on pretty well to the front screen but the main canopy came in two halves and messed up slightly on the ‘practice’ side but know why and this side went on pretty good.

 
Hopefully get some priming done before I head off again tomorrow night.
 
Cheers
Slog

Although I did a lot of hull work on my Granado while on camping trips around the country, now that I am rigging her that is no longer an option.  So, on our last trip to Florida I grabbed this Tamiya kit from my stash. Everything but the decals was done on picnic tables throughout Florida.  The decals I saved until we returned home. Gad, some are so tiny they are nearly invisible when removed from the backing.

I had a 'both spectrum' day today.......still beats work'in    the session was slow,  since I was browsing the site here,  but I think I got a lot done.  as mentioned......I had a bout of happiness,  with a dash of utter frustration.  here.......I'll walk ya through it.   after I cemented the axles in the trucks,  I devised a way to put pressure on the frame to remedy the warpage they had.  for the most part,  it was successful.   I haven't added any other wash colors to them yet,  but I did promise a better view of them.


I got those valve chests off the table too.........I added them to the loco.   I was going to paint the gray parts flat red.......I still can....that is,  if I had some handy.   I ran out.........opened the bottle and found that it had dried up........oh bother  

I did a dry fit to see how the trucks would look under the tender.   I like it    I also need to do the pony truck on the loco too........maybe even the under carriage.  


next was to finish painting the sand dome......it had been painted yellow.   I gave it some gold banding.

I decided to give the wood load the base coat.......there are other colors that will be added,  once the two parts are fully dry.

the steam dome {I found that there is a typo in the instructions  }  got a continuation with it's paint job,  deciding to accent top and bottom in flat black.   actually,  it seems like a semi gloss black.......I'm using the Billing's paint.   I gotta try and use it up.......I still have too much to just toss out  
    come to find out,  the rattle can I've been using,  has pretty much the same sheen.

I added the rear coupler to the tender........it's not painted yet.  also added the two caps...

that is the pre civil war coupler.   now comes the frustration part of the show....the decals.   I truly pity the person that has the original kit........those decals are likely going to be worthless.   they are very thin,  with absolutely no give at all.   the fact that they are long makes them even more prone to breakage.   my only recommendation to you would be to spray them with a decal bonder {whichever you use},  or try lacquer.   these are a reissue by Round 2 models and I had a devil of a time.   the first one wasn't bad.....

the other side broke in four places.........others broke in a number of places.  I did the best I could to salvage them.......I managed to use them all.

{damn stomach...........}



I'll have to see what they have for the front coupler.......I know there's chain.........which will be substituted with metal chain.  I may have to make a pair of eye bolts for it......hooks too most likely.   the steam dome is done....here it is next to the sand dome.  there are other part to be added to them both.   thanks for look'in in  

A bit more to add...thanks to all who've commented or hit the like button...much appreciated 
The comings were painted the red ochre mix but the grates left natural, a sure test of my cut-in skills ...the grates were stained with a natural stain...poly will follow latersorry for the lousy focus 
the deck houses and binnacle were painted as well

along with the windlass cheeks

two coats of tallow were applied the the hull bottom...
the rest of the hull paint will be added over the course of the week...I want this stuff to have plenty of time to cure out...this is infamous model shipways paint but thinned with iso and distilled water (50,25,25 ratio), seems to make a difference in how it lays down

A bit more to add...thanks to all who've commented or hit the like button...much appreciated 
The comings were painted the red ochre mix but the grates left natural, a sure test of my cut-in skills ...the grates were stained with a natural stain...poly will follow latersorry for the lousy focus 
the deck houses and binnacle were painted as well

along with the windlass cheeks

two coats of tallow were applied the the hull bottom...
the rest of the hull paint will be added over the course of the week...I want this stuff to have plenty of time to cure out...this is infamous model shipways paint but thinned with iso and distilled water (50,25,25 ratio), seems to make a difference in how it lays down

A bit more to add...thanks to all who've commented or hit the like button...much appreciated 
The comings were painted the red ochre mix but the grates left natural, a sure test of my cut-in skills ...the grates were stained with a natural stain...poly will follow latersorry for the lousy focus 
the deck houses and binnacle were painted as well

along with the windlass cheeks

two coats of tallow were applied the the hull bottom...
the rest of the hull paint will be added over the course of the week...I want this stuff to have plenty of time to cure out...this is infamous model shipways paint but thinned with iso and distilled water (50,25,25 ratio), seems to make a difference in how it lays down