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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Hi Richard, I actually do all my spars on my Sherline (long bed) lathe. I first cut the required square and hex shapes slightly oversize, the (very roughly) shape them to a hex taper using a plane and then set it up in the lathe and use small machinist jacks and a follower rest to shape the final profiles. I use a combo of rasps, files and sandpaper for that process constantly checking the profile with calipers etc. For shorter sections I sometimes use the duplicator, especially about the hounds and masthead doubling. I then refine the squared and flat surface manually using a file rest and fine needle files to get them to the final dimensions. You can see some of my earlier dings (collision scars) between the Y cross-slide and the chucks before I made a stop for it Well, one has to learn some lessons the hard way; I put it down to the experience of learning. PS: Sorry, I should mention that I mainly work at 1:72 so, at your scale you might have some difficulty setting up spars etc. cheers Pat
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A great diorama Greg, looks good and nicely detailed. I wonder though how they drink those beers on the Quarterdeck table with all that protective gear on I have enjoyed following this build. cheers Pat
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Sorry to hear the news of the delayed recovery mate; best wishes for a better progress. cheers Pat
- 714 replies
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- lady nelson
- victory models
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Good to hear you are on the recovery path Mark, I hope all continues to go well for you. Look forward to seeing the up[dates... and, I know whay you mean by the scales for older ewyes. 1:72 is straqting to do my head in also cheers Pat
- 11 replies
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- half hull
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Hi Richard. This is one (home-made) that I use with my Sherline. The idea is to cut a profile (template) in metal that is used as the master profile for as many duplicates as you need - works best with more complicated shapes but will work with a simple flat/tapered profile also. However, I usually use a compound slide to cut tapers on the Sherline, but that only works well over shorter distances. Hopefully the photos are self explanatory, but essentially, the cutter (top) will only cut as deep as the profile follower (bottom bar) and the template will allow. cheers Pat
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Interesting but very effective approach to cutting the tapers Richard. Appears this approach may be easier than setting up a shape follower (duplicator) arrangement. cheers Pat
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John I would ignore the lot of them! You are the one doing the work and you govern the pace; not like you are under a Contract. So if you want to take your time you should; but, as you have indicated your intention to complete ASAP, that is your call and they should respect that. It is really a bit cheeky of them pushing you if you are doing this on a voluntary basis; they should be grateful and encouraging. She is looking great BTW, very nice work. cheers Pat
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Welcome back, great to see the build progressing. cheers Pat
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- sloop
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This is building into an exceptional diorama Greg. The figurine painting skills you show are top-notch. cheers Pat
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Hi Keith, OK, I'll be the "stick in the mud" . To me, while I agree about the aesthetics of the issue (ruins/denigrates the lines of that beautiful hull), I tend to model my subjects true to the period/time I have selected for the model. If you have selected 'as built' then leave them off, but if you have selected a more current time, and they were fitted at that time, then I would include them. In the end though, the decision is yours, and you have to live with it. Enjoying your build, which is coming along as nicely, if not better than you previous high quality builds. cheers Pat
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Very nice work Keith, she is coming along very nicely. If there isn't too much (boxes, shelves and hanging tools) on the walls, would a couple of simple hinge-up (kept open with a stick ) windows/opening be suitable to show off some of the interior? They could be small and allow some ventilation/cooling with a cross-flow in real life, while allowing more glimpses of those very nicely crafted engines in the model? Gotta watch those slip hazards mate; hope all is good. cheers Pat
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Agree, so close to a pier (solid - not open with piles) that any speed on the vessel will create a pressure wave which in effect will serve to push the vessel back off the pier. Slow speeds in shallow water are also a necessity other wise the stern will sit (be sucked) down. Also agree that the postures of the crew (and the seagulls) do not support a vessel at speed (sufficient to create such a splash). If anything ripples rather than splash? Would you (the crew) also be wanting to disturb such contaminated water with such a splash? Sorry if this all sounds 'negative' but it is such a wonderful diorama, that I believe that it should not be open to later criticism if entered for judging, if the story does not reflect the scene? cheers Pat
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