BANYAN
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Congrats on your Anniversary Rob, and some great photographs there. I enjoy landscape photography and really enjoy these. It difficult to capture what the 'eye' sees and appreciate you didn't overdo them with HDR and oversaturated colour. cheers Pat -
Hi Glen - just keeping you on your toes. In sailor speak (well our navy at least) this was a way of saying 'neat and tidy'. cheers Pat
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Tis easy to decode Glen, just sample a few nips of good ol' Bundy Rum You may even understand baby talk after that BTW, your Connie is looking great, the rigging is looking nice and 'tiddly'. cheers Pat
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Sorry to hear of the trials and tribulations during your canal excursion Keith - I can understand the problems. My wife will not allow me to get on the roof for the regular maintenance these days; she says I have lost 'me sea legs'. Getting older 'sucks' . No rush on your model progress mate, family and friends must always take precedence. cheers Pat
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Quite the collection you have of unusual early ships Steven. I have enjoyed following along, especially the excellent model resulting from your reseach. cheers Pat
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Sounds good to me looks like Keith has you covered cheers Pat
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Hi Sizzolo, are you talking about the gratings/duck boards in the bottom of ship's boats? These came in two types as far as I am aware, but there are more experienced/knowledgeable people on this forum who may correct this. Type 1 was constructed from widely spaced simple slats/planks laid longitudinally and shaped to conform with the inside of the hull. This may have required them being made in separate parts, or checke3d in around major ribs, stringers and the like. Type 2 was constructed the same as a ship's hatch covering. These were made with a smaller grid (smaller battens and crosspieces, and laid the same as the slat type. Are these what you are talking about? Also some gigs and pinnaces, used as the Admiral/Captain's barge/boat, had more elaborate furnishing and fittings. It is possible that the oiled canvas mats, similar in decor as the Captain/Admirals cabins, and as suggested by @barkeater were also used in their boats. The mats will simply have been laid/put down over the boat's decking. Obviously, these will have been of a much smaller size and grid pattern. I have attached a piccy I took in a fancy heritage house in Hobart, Tasmania which used painted canvas mats which look quite good IMHO. While this is much fancier than the typical checkerboard pattern it shows what they will have looked like. Hope this helps? cheers Pat
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Great project idea Glen. Now I fully expect to see the motley crew, especially Jack Sparrow, as part of this one Look forward to seeing this one develop. cheers Pat
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- Flying Dutchman
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She's coming along very nicely John. It is inevitable in such projects that a lot of the restoration goes unnoticed. cheers Pat
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Nice job Steven, looks good. WRT belaying points, some lines could be brought to the same point. This is especially true for all the lines used to control the sail being brought to a common belaying point so that a sailor could grab them in hand all at once (as all those lines needed to be worked togeher). Not sure if applicable tour build but would make an appropriate story/yarn? cheers Pat
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I think you may be a little harsh on your build efforts Eberhard; from my perspective I don't think there is much you could improve on. cheers Pat
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Certainly is Keith. The whole build is looking great, a well-executed blend of detail and craftsmanship. cheers Pat
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Hi John and Keith, those were my immediate thoughts also - a fairlead for guiding/controlling lines led from forward. Did she have a capstan aft? One of the issues we had when losing power to the main capstan was raising the anchor by hand. We usually reverted to the tried and tested three-fold cable/deck tackles, but when possible tried to utilise other winches (such as boat /hawser winches) to assist such tasks. These required a long unobstructed lead, so having fairleads would be beneficial? In reverse, the lead may be used to lead a messenger to the capstan from aft for bringing in a tow rope or the like? Just brainstorming here cheers Pat
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Nice detailing Rob, a nice assembly of 'assemblages' mate, she certainly will have a lot of nicely detailed deck furniture. cheers Pat
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An exquisite model Eberhard. It really is a showcase for your skills and attention to detail. I very much enjoyed the journey of the build. cheers Pat
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Stunning work Keith, some nice eye candy to farewell us as you depart - enjoy the holiday. cheers Pat
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Keith, I couldn't agree more with the above accolades for this excellent bit of metal smithing craftsmanship. cheers Pat
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Looks good Steven. Another method I've heard of is to use small weighted bags (filled with sand or the like) - make the bag from scrap cloth to size. The natural bellying of the bag sort of coincides with the bellying of a sail. I have not tried it myself, simply passing on a tid-bit I've read somewhere. I've also heard of the method suggested by Druxey; either should work I think. cheers Pat
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Ah the joys and tribulations of redos Very nice recovery job though. cheers Pat
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- Paddlewheeler
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Floor and frame spacing
BANYAN replied to BANYAN's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks Eberhard, appreciated the continued feedback. I agree, closer where load and stress would be greatest but agree, differing spacing is difficult to accept. However, it seems this was implements as it was specified in the build Specifications and drawn in Lang's plans. Also, yep as best as I can tell they were steamed into pretty sharp 'U' bends. These timbers replaced the shadow moulds used to form the diagonal planking and were smaller in dimension than regular frames would have been. Several authors writing about wood ship construction in the latter half of the 19thC mention bent timbers and their writing supports/infers bent rather than jointed timbers. The hull construction was very different hence all this confusion, as there is not much in the way of reference materials to provide guidance too many assumptions having to be made by myself for my liking at the moment. cheers Pat -
Hi Jerome, there are others also writing in this era, including: Robert Kipping (as per John above) - "Rudimentary Treatise On Masting and Mast Making" 1853/1854/1858 editions John Fincham "A Treatise on Masting Ships and Mast Making" 1854 G.S. Nares (Commander, RN) "Seamanship" - 1868 More related to USN is: SB Luce "Seamanship" - 1868, and Brady "The Kedge Anchor" - 1852 edition Most of these are available as digital copies (PDF) produced by Google. The search engines now try and point you to 'print on demand' or paid versions, but if you persevere and look further down you can still find the free pdf versions easily enough. cheers Pat
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Floor and frame spacing
BANYAN replied to BANYAN's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks for responding Eberhard. Yes I have consulted several contemporary authors including Fincham, Peake and Scott-Russell. All speak in general terms and there are very few diagrams/illustrations showing framing of this time. Where there is framing discussion, unfortunately it is for standard construction and not that using bent timbers in lieu of frames and no one speaks of differing frame spacing. That is 2, 3 and 4ft spacing in the same vessel - these authors tend to suggest a regular spacing, which in this time is said to be between 2'7" and 3' 6", one set of spacings throughout. My question is really in terms of general convention and probably only able to be answered in subjective terms - that is, where do people think the more dense/closer (i.e 2ft) spacing is most applicable? Thanks again Pat -
Looks good Keith. I am surprised they were not using SWR for the pile driver by this time? Not saying it should be at all, just interesting that it does not seem that they were. cheers Pat
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