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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. And a very useful one. I wonder how well that rope sets? It look like it would not unravel at all. cheers Pat
  2. Hi from Melbourne Alex. Welcome aboard and let me also say what a beautiful model you are building. I am also interested in ships of this era so will follow you build with some interest. cheers Pat
  3. Ditto Rick's comments; that ocean looks great even before you planned additional work Rob. cheers Pat
  4. Great news Keith, I am happy to hear of Maggie's recovery; that will also be a great weight off your mind. cheers Pat
  5. Those laser cut 'ironwork' pieces look very authentic Chuck, that is so nicely done. cheers Pat
  6. I agree Greg. I am sure the old salts also had some apprehension with the introduction of plastic kits, or manufactured brass parts? cheers Pat
  7. Sorry to hear this news Keith; my thoughts are with you. I hope Maggie has a full recovery. cheers Pat
  8. And note the warm clothing in the MIDDLE of SUMMER - yikes. It has been one of those seasons down this a-way. BTW, nice carving Steven. cheers Pat
  9. Paul, if lines were bent to the sheer poles, this would probably have been done using the tails of the line. The excess would first have been made up into coils, a length of the tail end then wrapped around the coils on their upper end, forming a sort of eye, through which the tail will have been passed. The length of the tail will have been long enough to form at least a clove hitch by which to bend it to the pole, but probably a little more to allow a constrictor hitch, or safety turns in addition to a clove hitch. However, if carelessly/haphazardly bent to the pole, this could also have led to several of these made-up coils dangling and swinging freely if the pole was fitted much higher than the cap/roughtree rail. This would have imposed a significant hazard for the crew when stepping into the ratlines? This could be somewhat mitigated by bending them onto, or even around the shroud, near where the poles crossed them, leaving the parts between the shrouds clear to access/step-on? Hope this helps? cheers Pat
  10. I would hardly say 'suffering through the build' Glen; I have enjoyed every second of it; especially when you keep building these interesting and well executed projects. cheers Pat
  11. That is one nice diorama Glen, you may not be a florist but I think you could give Bonsai a fair old shake cheers Pat
  12. You have done a superb job on this model Eberhard; such great detail at the scale you use. I know that term is overly used, but in thios instance well and truly deserving. I have enjoyed the voyage. thanks. Pat
  13. A wonderful display Rob, she looks great in her final home. Congratulations on an excellent build. cheers Pat
  14. Druxey, at least you recognized them, I was perplexed until the hint given by the more observant FlyingFish. cheers Pat
  15. Thanks for the info Eberhard. In hindsight, and as I am working at a larger scale, do you think drafting linen might work?
  16. I love this model Steven, especially in her quasi-diorama - a very nicely displayed model. Hopefully you won't accidently catch one of those protruding corners in her new home? cheers Pat
  17. Those gripes/sea lashings look so good Eberhard, very nicely done. Now I have something to try and emulate for the Victoria's boats Can I be so bold as to ask for a link to that material for making them? cheers Pat
  18. Hi Ron, I have a Sherline mill also. That chuck usually comes with a draw bar (threaded on one end and a bolt type head) that you put in from the top of the spindle assembly. I partially engage the thread of the draw bar into the chuck bore, give it a tap or two with a small rubber mallet (small hammer will work also) which usually disengages the tapered (morse) chuck head. If you don't have the draw bar, putting a metal rod of suitable OD down into the spindle bore and tapping that should also work, BUT put a rag or something under the chuck so that if it dislodges completely, it will fall onto a padded surface and not damage the cross-table or the chuck etc. The rod could be one of the many different bars/rods provided by Sherline, but should be a smaller OD than the bore, but bigger than the internally threaded bore in the top of the chuck (so that you don't drive the bar into this and damage the thread). I hope that resolves the issue for you. cheers Pat
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