BANYAN

Great update John; she is coming along very nicely. 
 
Our best wishes to you and your lovely wife for a happy and safe festive season and a great modelling 2016.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great update John; she is coming along very nicely. 
 
Our best wishes to you and your lovely wife for a happy and safe festive season and a great modelling 2016.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great update John; she is coming along very nicely. 
 
Our best wishes to you and your lovely wife for a happy and safe festive season and a great modelling 2016.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for the good wishes and thanks to all who have pressed the 'like' button.
 
Cathead - not sure about the shape of the rudder, except that 'that's the way they built 'em'.    It may have had something to do with the fact that they dried out with the tide while at T.I. and, because of their deep hull shape, lay over quite heavily as in the photo below - but then it could be that it was the way the first one was built and everyone simply followed suit.
 
John
 

A Christmas update.  The 'Pritt' continues to move ahead slowly.  The pin rails are now fitted (although I now realise I forgot to photograph the model with them fitted - next time).  The belaying pins on these vessels were, generally, simple iron or steel bars fixed through the rails - nothing fancy on a pearl sheller!  The rudder has now also been fitted and the tiller made, but only temporarily in place for the photographs - it still needs painting and the steering blocks fitted before it's finally permanently fitted.  The end of the tiller kicks up like that at the end so that it's about hip height on a man standing to steer, although steering was generally done using the tiller ropes.
 
You will notice the unusual fittings for securing the rudder.  This type of rudder fitting is typical of T.I. pearl shellers - the upper gudgeon is simply a plate that is passed through a slot in the rudder abaft the rudder post and the lower gudgeon is a round fitting into which the lower end of the rudder post fits.
 
The masts have been commenced - the main mast has been shaped and the mizzen is tapered ready for shaping.  The spars are being made from Celery Top Pine, a traditional Tasmanian boat building timber and beautiful to work with.  I got a couple of scraps of it from a boatyard when we were visiting Tasmania a couple of years ago.
 
A happy Christmas to all.
 
John
 

 

 

 

 
 

Looks ghreat as ir is Mark.  This gives you the excuse to have a really good festive season celebration - well two excuses
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great to see you back Paul; look forward to the updates on this woinderful build.  Ditto re the festive season.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great to see you back Paul; look forward to the updates on this woinderful build.  Ditto re the festive season.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great to see you back Paul; look forward to the updates on this woinderful build.  Ditto re the festive season.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Looks ghreat as ir is Mark.  This gives you the excuse to have a really good festive season celebration - well two excuses
 
cheers
 
Pat

Looks ghreat as ir is Mark.  This gives you the excuse to have a really good festive season celebration - well two excuses
 
cheers
 
Pat

Looks ghreat as ir is Mark.  This gives you the excuse to have a really good festive season celebration - well two excuses
 
cheers
 
Pat

Looks ghreat as ir is Mark.  This gives you the excuse to have a really good festive season celebration - well two excuses
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great to see you back Paul; look forward to the updates on this woinderful build.  Ditto re the festive season.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.
 
That magic milestone...  All planked, sanded, and one coat wipe-on poly.  I do have one small area that needs some work as it has a stain.  I don't think it's blood...
 
Lessons learned at this point.. many.    
 
1) I should go a bit wider than the 1/8" width even if it's out of scale.  Just for the eye appeal and the ease of working with the wood.
 
2) Use a "harder" wood, like boxwood.  Pear deforms and dings easily.
 
3) Definitely not pear for gap-filling.   Some areas went black, other areas look good.  Strange stuff.  I played with some scrap and it did the same thing.  Either that or not use the poly and sawdust in the gap filling and live with the glue and sawdust.
 
4) A bit more care in the framing and fairing. I found some areas just weren't proper and had to fiddle with the frames before continuing.
 
Now to attend to the stern... which should be fun area and not as tedious.
 

 

Nice work Greg, they look good; well worth the effort.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice work Greg, they look good; well worth the effort.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi all, a long overdue update.  I have been busy with life (health issues), revamping my workshop and working on our club's build of HMCSS Victoria (see separate post) but have had time to progress.
 
I have completed the 'rattlin' of the lower shrouds on the port side and working across the upper shrouds.  I am using a template (see photo) which at scale provides 13" separation. Some of you may have noted my query re ratline sequence/pattern in a separate post/forum.  In the end I followed James Lees description in his great reference " The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War1625-1860"  which is essentially what the replica has done with some minor adaptions which I have also applied.  His reference is based on contemporary models in the NMM and while there are difference between ships in this era, it is anyone's guess what pattern was actually used
 
I have also started rigging the shroud cleats - what a pain in the xxxx    I have tried various techniques and having had advice from Dan Vad and Greg Lester (thanks guys), still had problems holding these 'slippery little suckers' in place while securing them to a shroud.  even CA would not hold.  In the end I finally had some success using a tiny dab of CA on a half hitch around the base of each leg of the cleat (see photo), then half-hitching these and applying a dab of PVA to the hitch to temporarily hold them in place while I finish the hitches.  The PVA them leeches into the completed hitch and 'et voila'
 
cheers
 
Pat (and my 1000th post )
 
  
 
  

Nice work Greg, they look good; well worth the effort.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice work Greg, they look good; well worth the effort.
 
cheers
 
Pat

OK, as promised, it's taken several hours, but my first attempt at the 10.5cm guns. I will make 4 on this pedestal to go below decks as you won't see the bottom bits. I think they will come up OK when painted 9compared to the kit ones) and put in at a later date. Now I know what to do i will be a fair bit quicker. Then there are four 5cm guns to fabricate. I will leave the above decks ones until I'm almost finished.
 
 

In the Shipyard,
Couple of small things out of the way.
 
The 2 x Cats Head cut in place over the knight head.

 
The Capstan:
I raised the black base up a little so the cap will be above the hatch(next build item) to the right.
At the bottom of the capstan I notched in rebates for 2 flippers to lock the rotation.

 
 
Dave R

Thanks again for the "likes" and comments.
 
Half an update.. I guess that's what I'll call it.    I sanded, scraped, filled gaps and put on one coat of wipe on poly on the starboard side.  There's a couple of dings I'll just have to live with.  Had a weird reaction with the sanding dust and wipe on poly thought during gap filling.  Some of the gaps (most) went black. I'm not sure why.  Then again, the planking all looked one color until the poly went on.  I'm still happy with it as the color variations give it something other than solid wall of wood color.
 
Now focusing on the port side.  Here's pics of the starboard side.
 



 
And this last one is a "before" and "after" shot. 

 

Okay - I'll jump inm also - Happy birthday.  Love this log simply for learning the ways you approach each detail.  keep them coming (after appropriate birthday celebrations of course )
 
cheers
 
Pat

Okay - I'll jump inm also - Happy birthday.  Love this log simply for learning the ways you approach each detail.  keep them coming (after appropriate birthday celebrations of course )
 
cheers
 
Pat