BANYAN

Hello,
thanks to everyone for the kind words and likes..
 
12 pdrs cannon barrel
 
Pictures from the production of the negative mold to the finished
cannon barrel in the tin casting method.
Karl
 
 
T e i l  46
 
 

Continuation of the deck gun saga 
 
Hey Freek, look what I found in the con storage area - - - the gun operator seat !!!    
 
No, really, I couldn't resist trying to make the seat anyway.  After i cemented the seat to the gun base I noticed it wasn't quite the way i wanted it but I'll correct it tomorrow afternoon after my doctor visit.
I made the foot rests too and that's now cemented on.  We are making progress   
 
I also made a start with the barrel elevation rack. Not a simple job now that the barrel is mounted but I'll have work around it somehow., we'll see.
 
And Amateur Jan - I have made a brand new eye bolt for the front of the gun, much better this time, agree?? 
 
Okay, here are the few pics showing the seat installed to the gun.
 

 

 

 
Cheers,

Good evening or morning to all.  After a simple dinner with my dear wife and watching a nature show on TV I'm back to report what we accomplished today.
 
I could only do some work in the PM because this morning I had my fifth cancer treatment and the aftermath was a little uncomfortable and needed to stay close to the crapper 
 
After lunch things kinda felt better and I was able to do some assembling of the deck gun.  And - - - wouldn't you know it, I lost one of the gun pivot bearing caps, it went flying to somewhere and I had to make a new one 
This time I decided to forego the epoxy cement and just nail the suckers to the mount body.  This worked quite well and then I cemented the two hand wheels also to the gun mount body and the central pivot pin with the turn plate.
 
Of course I forgot to paint the inside but that's not a real problem, I still have enough access to it.  
 
Next I started to make the 4 hand holds and the pedal rod at the lower front of the gun mount.  I used the tiny bronze nails for the posts and 1.5 mm brass tube s to shove a 1 mm rod through as the hand hold.  The pic below shows it better then i can describe it.
 
Well, that's it for today and I hope to get a good night sleep
 

Deck gun in profile, ⅔ finished - is lacking the hand-holds and a few other details and paint.
 

This shows a close-up and yes, it may look a little rough but the pic is taken on a macro setting.  You can see how I installed the two pivot pin bearing caps with the tiny bronze nails and the heads acting as bolts.  Yeah, I could have filed hexagonal heads on them but, but, but - - - hmmm, maybe later???  
At least I inserted pieces of wooden dowels in the pivot pins to act as the locking nuts and yes, they have the spanner groves in them  .
 

This shows the aft end of the gun, we can see the breech and some more details
 

The shows the front view of the gun assembly as it is as of this evening.  I hope to complete the deck gun tomorrow, if not then there is always another day.
 

This shows one set hand-holds.  It worked easier then I thought.  I first filed the bronze nail heads flat on top and "tinned" it.  Then I cut 2 mm pieces off of the 1.5 mm brass tube.  I inserted the nail into a block of wood so the head was kinda flush with the wood surface.  Then I picked each piece of tubing up with a pointed toothpick and placed that on the tinned nail head and soldered the two together.  Worked like a charm.
 
Cheers,

I got this idea from J. Ponto. 
 
In the past I have had problems seizing or attaching blocks to spars or other places that are high up on the ship.
I took an old desk lamp, gutted the cord and socket and replaced that with some extensions and a special fixture on top.
   
I had this small Sony tripod that I never use, took off the legs and adapted it to a small C-clamp. Now I have numerous ways of twisting, turning and reaching those awkward places with a hemostat or other tool that clamps as shown above. In order to use it at deck level, I simply take off one or two of the extensions.
Thanks Ponto.

Thanks for the support and the likes...
 
Minor milestone... took the big pieces of wood and made about 850 small pieces of wood.  Oh... and sawdust. 
 
I've closed the sawpits for now and the pieces have been sent to the yard for gluing up into frame blanks and then cutting into frames.
 
Here's pics... and for those who wanted it.. a picture of (naturally) the sawdust from cutting the pieces.
 

 
Hopefully, I didn't mis-count but I still have some "big" pieces left just in case.
 

 
Now where did I stash that really large bottle of glue??
 

Ah, I think I can even smell the sawdust from here   Happy modelling Mark.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Head down and a weatherly eye Ollie; good luck mate!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Head down and a weatherly eye Ollie; good luck mate!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Christmas in April!!!     Wood has arrived from Jeff at Hobbymill.  Wonderful wood and it's perfectly dimensioned.  I'm plotting out the frame blanks and hope to start making sawdust later this evening.
 
Time to start getting this build back on the road.... err... building slip.  The wood isn't warped, the camera is having issues. I think it was the setting I choose.
 

Thank you all for visiting and your like votes.
 
John, Popeye and Mark, thanks for your encouraging comments, really appreciated.
 
After spending a few hours in the front yard trying to remove some pesky and stubborn ground cover that has crept into my grass I ventured back into the garage aka shipyard. 
I decided not to overdo the hard yard work because my back is still not back in good shape and won't aggravate it.
 
I made a jig to solder the hand wheels together and proceeded to cut the spokes from the same brass rod as the wheel rims.  I used a tiny bronze nail for the wheel shaft.
I removed most of the head and put the nail in a hole at the center of the jig with enough space so I can slide the spokes under the nail head.  
Next I used a couple of clothes pins to hold the spokes to the jig in their assigned location in the jig so that I could solder one spoke at a time to the nail head in the center. 
 
After this was done I cleaned all extra solder away and clipped the spokes to fit inside the rim.
 
Next I placed the rim on the jig surrounding the spokes and clamped a steel office clip to hold it all together and also act as a heat sink.  It required just a light touch with the soldering iron to solder all the spokes to the rim.  
Now came the job of adding the tiny handle to the rim and clean it all up from the extra solder.
 
This doesn't look like a lot I accomplished but it was time consuming and between losing a few spokes and some that were not cooperating it still took a few hours, including the cleaning up of the extra solder.
The spokes are not quite at the correct angles, they must have drifted out of place when clamping them with the clothes pins.  But as we say in the aviation world - - - You'll never notice it from 10,000 feet   I know, I know, that's not really Piet's way and who knows - - - I may remake them later with a better jig and clamping arrangement.
 
I also drilled a few small holes in the barrel assembly pivot pin bearing caps for the simulated bolts.  I'll use tine bronze nails instead after I epoxy them to the base unit.  Hmmm, I probably need to paint the inside of the base and the gun grey before assembling it.
There are a few more details to be made and installed but the gun is getting close to be placed on the boat.
 
Okay, time for a few pics of today's effort and for my own file.
 

This shows my jig.  A piece of soft wood whereon I scribed groves for the spokes and the rim.  I drilled a small hole in the center for the wheel axle.  I didn't notice that two of the spokes had drifter out of their groves and proceeded with the soldering.  After all the spokes were soldered on the pin and took it out of the jig I noticed it and tied to redo the two culprits but started to make a real mess and had to start over.   Then I just gave up and cleaned the center before soldering the rim to the spokes.
 

This shown my heat-sink arrangement.  This worked quite well.
 

Here is the completed hand wheel on the jig before cleaning the extra solder away.
 

Here I am holding the finished hand wheel.  Sorry about the dirty wingers, that's the sap from the ground cover I was pulling out of the lawn grass 
 
Cheers, 
 
 

G'day to all and thank you very much for looking in and your likes, it's much appreciated.
 
I continued with the deck gun in between some domestic chores.  The main parts are made but need to be refined yet.  Still a lot of work to be done with the small details.
I'll post two pics of an actual deck gun that Freek send a few month ago for yuns to see what I'm trying to achieve.  They disappeared from my build log and have not yet had the chance to put them back.  BTW, quite a few pics have disappeared, arch 
 

The actual deck gun on display at the Navy Museum in den Helder, the Netherlands.
 

 

This shows all the major parts for the gun.  I finished the barrel and inserted a 3.1 mm copper tube in the muzzle end.  It will be attached to the center part with a wooden dowel, which is shown above left of the gun.  The aft part is attached with 2 small 1.5 mm brass tubes and a 3.1 mm copper tube in the lower center as part of the barrel.  The two small tubes are most likely for the shell casing discharge gas to the breech assembly.  I am inserting a 3.1 mm copper tube through the center part for the hinge.  The hinge pivot pin is a 1.5 mm copper tube.  I cut two 2.5 mm long 3.1 mm copper tubes to be cemented to the base as hinge bearings, I put them on the base unit just below for yuns to see and where they are supposed to go.  Hinge bearing retainer straps are from 0.2 mm brass shim stock that'll be cemented to the base kinda modeling it after the real gun.  I hope to be able to also use very fine sewing pins as the attaching bolts.
As you can see there is still a lot of work yet to be dome but so far I'm pretty happy with it.
 
Cheers,

Yards are coming along and I have to say I'm getting pretty excited as I get closer to complete Ollie

Rich, try dry fitting the completed parts to the hull and marking out the positions of the gudgeons and pintles etc before final assembly.
 
I use low tack clear tape to temporarily position the rudder in place using some small offcut wood to provide maintain the even spacing between the sternpost and rudder.  Then lightly mark the positions (centrelines) of the metal straps for the gudgeons and pintles on the rudder and the hull (make the marks so that the straps, when fitted, will cover them).  Remove the rudder and set to work - I usually do the hull first and then do another dry fit of the rudder just in case there are slight alignment changes resulting from the first step.
 
To assist, it is easier to make the gudgeons and pintle sets and shape them for each position, ready for assembly -  I also shape an offcut of wood to duplicate the rudder leading parts on which I shape the straps to better fit the actual rudder without damaging the rudder.  If you are simulating the bolts, pre drill the straps as this makes the fixing to the actual rudder much easier, and provides a template where to drill the hull to receive the bolts.
 
On the other hand, if your question is about making the gudgeons and pintles, have a quick search through the site as there have been several very good techniques discussed.
 
I hope this helps a little.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Rich, try dry fitting the completed parts to the hull and marking out the positions of the gudgeons and pintles etc before final assembly.
 
I use low tack clear tape to temporarily position the rudder in place using some small offcut wood to provide maintain the even spacing between the sternpost and rudder.  Then lightly mark the positions (centrelines) of the metal straps for the gudgeons and pintles on the rudder and the hull (make the marks so that the straps, when fitted, will cover them).  Remove the rudder and set to work - I usually do the hull first and then do another dry fit of the rudder just in case there are slight alignment changes resulting from the first step.
 
To assist, it is easier to make the gudgeons and pintle sets and shape them for each position, ready for assembly -  I also shape an offcut of wood to duplicate the rudder leading parts on which I shape the straps to better fit the actual rudder without damaging the rudder.  If you are simulating the bolts, pre drill the straps as this makes the fixing to the actual rudder much easier, and provides a template where to drill the hull to receive the bolts.
 
On the other hand, if your question is about making the gudgeons and pintles, have a quick search through the site as there have been several very good techniques discussed.
 
I hope this helps a little.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Days off so repairs start today. The port side channel was bent down breaking the chains. Luck would have it that I never glued it, but nailed it in. The ratlines have given the stays a stability so there will be no slackness when repaired, so it's a matter of replacing the chain links once the wales are re attached. There is so much rigging above them still in perfect order it should be quite simple. Putty and paint will hide a lot of sins. I reckon 2 days work. Kids at school and an eagle eye on the cat.

Build Background

I won’t provide a historical background for the Endeavour as it is an extremely well known ship and modelled extensively.  My decision to build Endeavour was based on my desire to model ships that were involved with the charting and exploration of the Australian coastline; or, had a major influence on Australian History.  All going well, I hope to include the following ships in my bucket list: 
HMS Investigator of Mathew Flinders fame (research well underway); HMS Mermaid (Cutter) and Tom Thumb of Bass and Flinders Fame.  Additionally, I am also researching the HMCSS Victoria, which was part of the Victorian Colonial Navy, and a unique ship due to its era and construction.  
I started building Endeavour in late 2006 and as you can see in the following photos, I have managed some progress, but nowhere near the speed at which I would have liked.  The build is based on the Artesania Latina (AL) kit; however, I have only used the backbone, bulkheads, planking strips and some of the kit's accessories/materials, the rest of the kit materials went into the bin J.  I selected the AL kit as the base for my model as the scale is good for display and I was reliably advised that the kit’s hull dimensions were reasonably accurate.
 
 

(AL graphic from the kit box)

That is one of the finest looking "Scissor Racks" I have ever seen Ollie!
 
(I really do like the catheads with the rope up as well )

Thanks as always gang.. I have been plodding away at blocks and fiddly
Bits, getting a system going to finish them.still no internet and.not much download on the phone.. Here's a few pics to keep you in the loop.. Masts are yet to be.glued. Might have to do them today.. Happy crafts all.. Ollie

Hi Greg, some great progress mate - the end is in sight   Those anchor stocks look really good!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for the compliments on the straps Piet, David and E&T.
 
 
Yeah E&T, these were considerably more difficult to make than flat ones . The previous pics didn't really show that they  also have an "S" bend that roughly follows the wooden rail below :
 

 
Doing the lateral bends was a trick, and getting Port and Starboard rails to look like mirrors of each other was a whole different ball game .
 
  Danny

Ah, thanks Danny - that is an interesting line of thought - and a VERY practical one - this warrants a lot more thought and is possibly the answer to the riddle .
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hello, thanks to everyone for the kind comments.
 
Karl
 
 
Upper-Deck
prepared for the installation of the cannons.
 
 
 
 
T e i l  45

Thanks go out to Tim, David, John, Mark, Joe, Patrick, David, Druxey, Michael, Toni and Popeye. I surprised myself with how successfully the railings turned out too .
 
Toni, next time I need to do some of this micro-soldering I'll make sure to document my method. It involves a block of Pumice stone to support the tiny rings.
 
Quarterdeck Breastwork
 
The Quarterdeck Breastwork was made in similar fashion to that on the Forecastle, with a few differences. The stanchions each have two sheaves (2.5mm diameter) instead of one, and there is a second rail.
 
Here's a pic of the setup I used in the lathe to make the 10 sheaves. Because of the small diameter of the brass wire I had to work very close to the chuck. This setup minimized the steps needed - I made the sheaves one at a time and parted them off as I went, moving the stock for each one.
 
The hole was drilled first, then I used the Parting Tool to score the wire to prevent it slipping sideways. The groove was cut next, and finally I finished parting the piece off. It took about an hour to set everything up and cut the 10 sheaves :
 

 
The five stanchions were turned using the DRO - they turned out identically . The slots for the sheaves were cut in the Mill using a broken 0.8mm drill, going 1mm deeper with each cut :
 

 
The sheaves were fitted, and the stanchions cut to length. There is a tiny difference in the angle of the bottom of each to allow for the roundup in the deck :
 

 
I used a scraper to cut the molding into the edges of a long piece of stock for the rails. Then I marked out and cut the square holes for the stanchions on the Byrnes saw. As I did for the forecastle railing a second piece was glued to the other edge to get the rail to the right width :
 

 

 
I used some 1.5mm bamboo pegs to secure the two outer stanchions to the deck and clamped the rail into place :
 

 
After a coat of Minwax :
 

 
This concludes Chapter 10 of "The Fully Framed Model - HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780" Volume 2.
 
  Danny

Port side anchors (sans Bouys for the moment). I've included a few angles to show why the bumpkin stays would need to be unslung when the anchor is used (If the plans are correct, but all a bit late for the that).

Thank you Russel, Timmo and Kevin.
 
 
Well how about this then Timmo ?
 
Ladderway Railings
 
The Stanchions for the railings are turned from 1.2mm brass wire. They taper from 0.7mm at the top to 1mm at the bottom. The lugs that hold the railings are made from a couple of spare chain links (left over from the pump chains). They are silver soldered to the stanchions - a bit tricky to hold in position, as the double ones are only 1.6mm long and the singles are 0.8mm :
 

 
Here's the coin again - the stanchions are 18mm long :
 

 

 
Fitted to the ship :
 

 

 
  Danny