Gabek

🤣Flattery and coffee will get you everywhere!

Well done, Bob! You rose to the challenge and put together a great model! It was a treat to be a small part of it. Clear skies and sharp tools, Gabe

Thanks, Bob ( @Knocklouder) If I do need something I'll be calling…it'll just have to be real small! 🤣 Clear skies! - Gabe

Out on a ledge… I was so put out by my trials with hanging knees that I forgot to take photos of installing a third beam and carlings! So, we recommence the log here: The pillars are actually dry fitted for now…I have plans that might require me to remove them. For instance… In the never-ending pile of details that I keep adding to this model…here's a photo that inspired me to add some cordage to the hold. While I did have some thread hanging around the workshop I bugged my friend, @Knocklouder , for some of his stash to add another "memento" to the Triton. We had planned another coffee visit for an exchange of parts but family illnesses on both sides made it more practical and healthier to just have an exchange at the door. I formed his line into loops, dipped them in GAC 400 and watered down PVA, and wrapped it in wax paper. To fit the contours of the casks, I formed the wet line on some spares that I had kicking around. Once dry, I purposely extended the bundle outside the cross section area and trimmed off the excess. I still had a few technical issues to work out before adding the final beam and carlings. So, inspired by @Knocklouder's speed I dove right in to making some stock for the ledges. I thought I was making 1.5x1.5mm sticks…but it turned out they were more like 1.65x1.65mm. This made a difference later as I realized the spacing I had calculated was messed up. I used a spacer (actually a wooden dowel that I had sanded down years ago and was the perfect measurement for my claculations) to notch the carlings for the ledges next to the beam. The edge of a needle file did a good job of making these notches in the birch. I bevelled the ends of each ledge by dragging them along my handy-dandy DIY sanding stick. While small, I soon got the hang of getting ledges to a correct length and bevel…not without dropping each one at least 23 times! Before gluing them in place I primed-painted-varnished the visible sides. At the outer ends of the beams I made a hash of notching the knees to fit the ledges. So, I made a sacrifice to accuracy and made those joints somewhat hybrid. My decision-making was heavily influenced by the fact that the underside of the mess deck will never be seen. I consider this part of the build as practice for the gun deck. When I started on the middle ledges it became apparent that I messed up the spacing. This is where I discovered that the ledges were, in fact, wider than I had wanted. Not thrilled about tearing off these pieces and starting over I used the mantra, "These will never be seen," and centred the middle ledges as best as possible. And here's Number One pointing out my mistakes… So, I had to stop production right here in order to do some more technical R&D. Hopefully I'll have an update for you quickly… Clear skies and sharp tools! - Gabe

I'm watching you! LOL!! Good work, Bob. Funny about forgetting that you owned a tool...happened to me last week: That jeweller's vice I had came in real handy after suffering for two days shaping small parts. Clear skies and sharp tools, Gabe

Can't wait to see what colours you'll go with on the yawl. By the way, I only really help those who I feel deserve it. You deserve it, Bob. Clear skies and sharp tools! - Gabe

Thanks, Bob! Much appreciated. (I normally sign off with "Clear skies!" But we both know clear skies in January mean crazy cold in Manitoba!🥶) Stay warm, Gabe

Barely hanging in there... After a little clean up on the ballast I dusted off the mess deck beams that I had made ...5 years ago! 😐 I'm still struggling with the correct order to install the beams, carlings, ledgers. Part of me wants to work off the model so I have room. Another part of me says to build it in place for stability and correct fitting. Well, it ends up I'm taking a bit of a combined approach... First, working off the model I notched the beams for the carlings. I have acquired some wonderful tools to help me here: Veritas Miniature Marking Gauges from Lee Valley. I managed the cuts using my resin saw and a very sharp Xacto knife. I then dry fit the beams and started on making some carlings. After much deliberation and an email to a learned friend ( @AON ) I soon realized that I really should install the beams to do a proper job of fitting the carlings. I decided to start from the centre and work toward each end of the cross-section - adding the carlings as I go. So, I dusted off the lodging knees and started on installing the centre two beams. It's a good thing I remembered that these would involve the transition from aft-facing to forward-facing lodging knees - as per HMS Trincomalee by Davies and Mudie: I primed, painted and matt varnished the beams, leaving the top clean for better adhesion for deck planks. I glued the lodging knees to the beams in advance because of the tight space that I will be working in. I then installed the two beams with a little shaping and sanding. Feeling rather good about myself I was about to go great guns on the carlings when I realized something...I completely forgot about the hanging knees! These had not been made yet and so I started the process to make them with a bit of ready-made stock I luckily had in my "lumber yard". Jeweller's saw, resin saw, x-acto, needle files, micro-chisels...you name it I likely used it to shape these little things: I was getting tired so I stopped after making two of these and gave them the old prime-paint-finish routine before calling it a night. This morning I woke up and as I started working on the model, my good friend @Knocklouder messaged me. We started chatting about our models and other sundries while I prepped the knees for installation. I felt quite proud of myself being able to multitask like this. Until I realized later that I glued these two hanging knees to THE WRONG BEAM! I had shaped them for the other beam and had scraped paint and varnish off the contact surfaces. Being my first attempts I also wanted to hide them in the middle of the hold. Instead they will be much more visible - in a tiny space - in the hold. Ok, they'll be virtually invisible. Fortunately, they fit quite well. I did leave them a little proud of the top of the beam so I can sand them flush before planking the deck. I sat down to make the remaining hanging knees but walked away after snapping the next two. Fortunately I still have a bit of the knee-stock and will try again - tomorrow. Although...printing them in resin is looking really enticing...just saying! Clear skies and sharp tools! - Gabe

Hello Michael, Just to put my mind at ease and for posterity's sake, I did a quick test of glazing with UV resin. I mixed a couple of drops with a tiny amount of acrylic yellow ochre ink. I then rolled a lantern I designed and printed (based on HMS Victory's) in the mix and cured it with my UV light pen. The nice thing with UV curing is that it takes only seconds. Nice to hear about the sunshine! Kind regards, Gabe

You are very likely correct with horn being used for glazing, Michael, much like the lanterns...https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2022/treasures-2/a-painted-tin-and-horn-lantern-from-the-gun-decks I believe that the resin would be easy to either dye before setting or inked afterward - I will play around with some and get back to you shortly. Clear skies and sharp tool! Gabe

It ain't done until it's done! 🤣 Looking good, Bob! - Gabe

Of course you had to put in the stern lantern! And nicely done, too. Did you try MicroGlaze to simulte the glass on the lantern? Here it is on (a much bigger) lantern near the bottom of this post: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/12417-santa-maria-1492-by-gabek-finished-artesania-latina-scale-165/#findComment-994346 Also, I have just used some clear UV resin to simulate water in a cask. Very clear and sets in seconds under a UV light. I can give you links to what I used if you're interested Clear skies and sharp tools, Michael! - Gabe

Hello again, Duck Yes, you can save DXF files in the free version of Fusion 360. Select the Sketch tool to begin your design. Be sure to Finish the Sketch to return to the design environment. From the browser along the left side of the screen, right click on the sketch you made and select Save as DXF. The DXF should be easy to import into any 2D software for printing. This short YouTube video may help: https://youtu.be/eKoJa2913cQ?si=BLWyLMSMlb2Fzqj7 Hope this helps, Gabe

Hey there, Duck. You can absolutely make 2d designs in Fusion 360. I use this all the time to laser cut and engrave parts in Lightburn. Select the Sketch tool and then pick a plane to draw on. You'll have a bunch of 2d drawing tools. Save the sketch to go back to the design environment. If you need to export the 2d sketch, right click on the sketch in the browser (the list along the left) and select “Save as DXF”. Hope this helps. Message me if you need help. Regards, Gabe

Roll out the barrel! (Ok, technically they're casks. I just wanted a kitschy 😆 title.) When I first thought of putting casks in the hold it was because of this photo from HMS Victory… The shingle ballast is greyish white. It just so happens that I had a jar of silica sand that my father-in-law gave to me years ago. I cannot recall what its purpose was…but it was for something I was doing and he advised adding a bit of silica sand. Unfortunately he passed away a few years ago and I thought this would be a nice tribute to him if I added some to my model. It matched the colour in the HMS Victory photograph and the sand grains could pass as shingle at scale. For quite some time I pondered how to model the shingle ballast that would stay put and hold the casks in place. I discounted plasticine with sand pressed into its surface because it will dry out. But Sculpey might work. I was sure I could press sand into it before baking it. Here's my experiment… While I could press it into shape, mould pockets for casks and push sand into it, it wouldn't maintain the curve of the hull when I peeled it off the model to bake it. Eventually, I thought of silicon caulk. As a test I built a mock deck from scraps and pieces lying around and it performed wonderfully. Pushing casks and sand into its surface resulted in a good, solid bond. Moreover, I could peel out casks and even peel the caulk from the wood (which I had varnished beforehand) without damaging anything if I needed to. (Which I did need to later!) Unfortunately I did not photograph this experiment. A short while ago I sawed some casks in half and filled them with varying materials to represent their contents. Water in the leaguer was simulated with clear UV resin. Having read many novels, I almost tinted the water green but realized that algae can't grow in the dark. Bacteria and moulds can but I chose to just keep it clear instead of cloudy. Casks with four, oatmeal, yellow and green peas were filled with caulk and then weathering powders pressed into them. Salt pork and salt beef were tiny cut offs from failed resin prints which were painted with reddish-brown for beef, pinkish-grey for pork. Allowing white primer to show through made them looked brined and salt-caked. These pieces were pressed into caulk-filled casks: Yesterday I took the plunge: I organized the casks and then masked off all the places I did not want caulk to mess up. I created clear plastic walls at either end of the area to provide a smooth barricade for caulk and casks. The first layer of caulk was laid down and sand poured over top. Gentle pressing with silicon-tipped clay tools set the sand into the surface of the caulk. Then the first tier of casks were pushed into place. I tried to make sure that the stoppered bung holes were on top. I baulked momentarily before I squeezed out a second layer of caulk on top of these casks. It seemed wrong, but I went for it. Pour some sand overtop and push in the second tier of casks. I realized very quickly that I was going to have to modify the layout…on the fly. The casks were not fitting according to the diagrams. Later I realized that the HMS Diana in the diagrams was not exactly the same dimensions of the HMS Triton or my version of it. I left everything to set for several hours. After removing the masks this is what I was greeted with… I liked the overall look of the casks, but there was a fair amount of clean up on the ends required. I was pleased and decided to attack the clean up in the morning. With a fresh cup of morning coffee in my hands I sat down at the model and spotted something… the outer row of casks on the second tier were pushing higher than the deck clamps! 😭 But, I didn't panic. In my testing I was able to pull out casks and remove caulk without too much bother. So, I rather quickly replaced the offending casks with smaller ones in my surplus. I dabbed fresh caulk on the bottoms to glue them into place. Because it was relatively easy I also changed a few other things that were bothering me. With a little clean up and some minor spot filling left to do, this is where the Triton stands (with a considerable list to port!🫢) Clear skies and sharp tools! - Gabe