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ERS Rich

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    Model Ship and Display Case Production

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  1. I’m a little late, back to the planking, suggest using a half round rasp to smooth the planks. Removes wood faster - effective at leveling the edge between the planks. A bit of wood needs to be removed to get rid of the inevitable hollows along the plank edges. Your hull looks great! -Rich
  2. Hardly a newbie! Welcome and good luck with your project. -Rich
  3. “Clinker” happening means the width of the plank needs to be reduced, or tapered, towards the stem. The taper starts about the third bulkhead aft of the stem, the plank width will end half the width or less at the stem. At first you can get away with not doing it, it will catch up to you. Find one of the many postings on this site to see how to do it. My Constitution build log talks about it. Nice work, so far, good luck.
  4. Keep going! Sand that wood filler until it is smooth and feathered in. When filling seams feel free to mask off each side so extra filler is on the tape. Makes the sanding job easy. Consider the lower hull needs to be completely smooth, no humps or bumps, or “stair steps” between planks. Look into how to use a card file. Good luck.
  5. Howdy! Good luck with your projects!
  6. Good point about hardwood, I was thinking about pine. The walnut strips can be grainy, shellac may reduce it, but it will probably look good unsealed. If you go that way interested in seeing how it looks. I’ve never used the Walnut strips to plank, did not want to deal with the brittleness, I think some soak them which helps with the knife cuts, cut with the grain rather than against. Check out Mr Hobby Mr Metal Primer, I’ve brushed it on metal cannon barrels and painted with Vallejo acrylic paint. Paasche Talon is my go to brush, a little less expensive than an Iwata. Most common airbrush problems are due to cleanliness or paint not thin enough. Vallejo air solves the second problem, the first is knowing how to disassemble and clean the brush. Anyway now I always go with blackening because you skip the priming step. Nice talking about this stuff, I’ll hang back and see what happens.
  7. One more thing, the way you soaked and clamped the bulwark around the jar is spot on. The same can be done with hull planks. Cheers
  8. Late to the party. Your ship looks good. The clinkers happen when the planks at the stem have not been tapered enough and are pulled towards the keel to fit. It’s ok. Look into using small files to shape wood. Get round, half round and flat. More precise than sanding, and faster. Fill in the clinker gaps with sandable wood glue and shape the hull with the files. Paint. Sealing the wood is a must. Shellac works well and dries fast. Make up some board samples, try one coat of shellac, then paint. Two coats shellac then paint. The shellac coats slowly fill in the grain. Yes, the thin airbrush coats show the grain nicely. You are doing good work. Keep going. In the end hull imperfections are practically unnoticeable when the ship is mounted or on the stand. Remember if it looks good from a foot away it’s ok. The rigging on this model dominates, most people will notice and be impressed with the rigging and the deck. Make choices to your taste. Your family and friends are not going to say your shade of Ochre is off. Good luck. -Rich
  9. Consider a lot of putty means painting the hull. The putty texture will not match wood grain. This means sealing the wood, prime, then paint. Good luck, -Rich
  10. Good job so far. Do you want to take it to the next level, beyond the instructions? Start tapering the plank widths. Consider planking 4 bulkheads at a time - it’s easier. Consult the How to Plank references here on MSW. Get into plank tapering. Good luck! -Rich
  11. Hi, Nice effort and glad that the work continues. Some thoughts hope they help. As you know walnut is brittle, rather than a knife use a chisel. As you found the grain makes the knife waver during the draw. You need a very sharp chisel. I use a 1” bench chisel. Mark the plank with say a line along its length. Put the walnut on a block of wood and put the chisel on the line and press down to make the cut. Do you understand wood grain? How to make relief cuts? Checkout Youtube. Noticed in the planking post something about full length planks - single plank from bow to stern. It’s harder this way. Try planks that span 4 bulkheads - it’s easier to taper. Getting the correct taper on a full length plank is very difficult and if you make a mistake at the end - bummer. Also smaller walnet planks would be easier to work. Do you have small files? They make the job evening up the gunport openings easier. And the paint. Is the wood sealed before painting? Pine wood stain or better shellac are good choices. Good luck, -Rich
  12. An example of the normal difference between the Plans, the ideal, and what happens in the field…. Good luck with your project.
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