DocBlake

Thanks guys!

I fashioned and fitted 2 swivel gun pedestals, one on each side to the model. These are located over the main mast channels and pass through them. Granado carried 12 - 1/2 pounder swivel guns, each 3 feet in length. The problem is that there is no commercial source available for a half-pounder swivel in 1/32 scale! I'd have to make my own.

I was able to find some brass cannons at Model Expo that were 1-1/4" in length. If I cut off the cascabel they were 1-1/8" - exactly three scale feet. Perfect. The only problem was that the Model Expo cannons had no holes for the trunnions drilled into the barrels. I build a simple jig to drill out the trunnion holes and then turned to fitting the handles.

The first step was to remove the cascabel with a sharp pair of Xuron cutters. I then used the disk sander to smooth and flatten the breech. I drilled a straight perpendicular hole in a piece of hardwood, just a bit slammer in diameter than the cannon barrel. Using a "force fit" I was able to wedge the barrel in the wood so it wouldn't spin when I drilled the hole for the handle. The handles themselves were 3/64" diameter brass rod cut to length with a 90 degree bend at the end. I put a few drops of CA glue, allowing each to dry before adding another, to form the "knob" at the end of the handle. This was painted flat red.

The mounting brackets were made of sheet brass cut to shape and then silver soldered to a length of 1/16" brass rod. Holes were drilled for the trunnion to pass trough the brackets and the barrels. The gun was held together with gel CA glue.



 

Thanks guys!

I fashioned and fitted 2 swivel gun pedestals, one on each side to the model. These are located over the main mast channels and pass through them. Granado carried 12 - 1/2 pounder swivel guns, each 3 feet in length. The problem is that there is no commercial source available for a half-pounder swivel in 1/32 scale! I'd have to make my own.

I was able to find some brass cannons at Model Expo that were 1-1/4" in length. If I cut off the cascabel they were 1-1/8" - exactly three scale feet. Perfect. The only problem was that the Model Expo cannons had no holes for the trunnions drilled into the barrels. I build a simple jig to drill out the trunnion holes and then turned to fitting the handles.

The first step was to remove the cascabel with a sharp pair of Xuron cutters. I then used the disk sander to smooth and flatten the breech. I drilled a straight perpendicular hole in a piece of hardwood, just a bit slammer in diameter than the cannon barrel. Using a "force fit" I was able to wedge the barrel in the wood so it wouldn't spin when I drilled the hole for the handle. The handles themselves were 3/64" diameter brass rod cut to length with a 90 degree bend at the end. I put a few drops of CA glue, allowing each to dry before adding another, to form the "knob" at the end of the handle. This was painted flat red.

The mounting brackets were made of sheet brass cut to shape and then silver soldered to a length of 1/16" brass rod. Holes were drilled for the trunnion to pass trough the brackets and the barrels. The gun was held together with gel CA glue.



 

Hey Pat!  I think it's obvious that block and tackle was used to move the mortar.  But there are eight walls to the pit and 4 ring on the mortar bed.  I doubt they were all fitted with tackle.  That would be a snakepit of rope in the mortar pit!  A pair of block and tackle rigs with hooks on each block to attach to the rings could move the mortar.  They could be removed and attached to any pair of rings chosen!  Makes sense!
 
Some of you have noticed the odd relationship between the center gun port and the mortar pit. I puzzled over that myself. First of all, the guns, barrels, mortar etc. in my post above are just sitting there...not glued in place, so I may change the final arrangement. The way the center port sits relative to the pit doesn't allow room to use the inhaul tackle to load the cannon. Nonetheless, there is a gun there, based on Lightly's model which has been on permanent display at the NMM in Greenwich. Below are three photos. The first clearly shows a cannon in the right lower corner without enough room to be hauled in for loading due to the mortar pit. The second photo (hard to see) shows a cannon in that position AT AN ANGLE! Could the gun have been turned and run in for loading at an angle to clear the pit? If so, why was this arrangement used in the first place? A design flaw? The third photo is my model with the gun at the center gun port placed at an angle, as discussed above.

This odd placement may have had something to do with the fact that, although built as a bomb vessel, Granado was initially fitted as a sloop of war! She was converted back to a bomb vessel later in her career. Perhaps the odd center gunport was a vestige of her sloop days? Who knows!
 
 
 

I carefully laid out the location for the inboard and outboard scupper ports.  The scupper tubes, made of lead on the real ship, were made of blackened brass tubing and glued into place.
 
 

 

Thanks guys!

I fashioned and fitted 2 swivel gun pedestals, one on each side to the model. These are located over the main mast channels and pass through them. Granado carried 12 - 1/2 pounder swivel guns, each 3 feet in length. The problem is that there is no commercial source available for a half-pounder swivel in 1/32 scale! I'd have to make my own.

I was able to find some brass cannons at Model Expo that were 1-1/4" in length. If I cut off the cascabel they were 1-1/8" - exactly three scale feet. Perfect. The only problem was that the Model Expo cannons had no holes for the trunnions drilled into the barrels. I build a simple jig to drill out the trunnion holes and then turned to fitting the handles.

The first step was to remove the cascabel with a sharp pair of Xuron cutters. I then used the disk sander to smooth and flatten the breech. I drilled a straight perpendicular hole in a piece of hardwood, just a bit slammer in diameter than the cannon barrel. Using a "force fit" I was able to wedge the barrel in the wood so it wouldn't spin when I drilled the hole for the handle. The handles themselves were 3/64" diameter brass rod cut to length with a 90 degree bend at the end. I put a few drops of CA glue, allowing each to dry before adding another, to form the "knob" at the end of the handle. This was painted flat red.

The mounting brackets were made of sheet brass cut to shape and then silver soldered to a length of 1/16" brass rod. Holes were drilled for the trunnion to pass trough the brackets and the barrels. The gun was held together with gel CA glue.



 

Thanks guys!

I fashioned and fitted 2 swivel gun pedestals, one on each side to the model. These are located over the main mast channels and pass through them. Granado carried 12 - 1/2 pounder swivel guns, each 3 feet in length. The problem is that there is no commercial source available for a half-pounder swivel in 1/32 scale! I'd have to make my own.

I was able to find some brass cannons at Model Expo that were 1-1/4" in length. If I cut off the cascabel they were 1-1/8" - exactly three scale feet. Perfect. The only problem was that the Model Expo cannons had no holes for the trunnions drilled into the barrels. I build a simple jig to drill out the trunnion holes and then turned to fitting the handles.

The first step was to remove the cascabel with a sharp pair of Xuron cutters. I then used the disk sander to smooth and flatten the breech. I drilled a straight perpendicular hole in a piece of hardwood, just a bit slammer in diameter than the cannon barrel. Using a "force fit" I was able to wedge the barrel in the wood so it wouldn't spin when I drilled the hole for the handle. The handles themselves were 3/64" diameter brass rod cut to length with a 90 degree bend at the end. I put a few drops of CA glue, allowing each to dry before adding another, to form the "knob" at the end of the handle. This was painted flat red.

The mounting brackets were made of sheet brass cut to shape and then silver soldered to a length of 1/16" brass rod. Holes were drilled for the trunnion to pass trough the brackets and the barrels. The gun was held together with gel CA glue.



 

Thanks guys!

I fashioned and fitted 2 swivel gun pedestals, one on each side to the model. These are located over the main mast channels and pass through them. Granado carried 12 - 1/2 pounder swivel guns, each 3 feet in length. The problem is that there is no commercial source available for a half-pounder swivel in 1/32 scale! I'd have to make my own.

I was able to find some brass cannons at Model Expo that were 1-1/4" in length. If I cut off the cascabel they were 1-1/8" - exactly three scale feet. Perfect. The only problem was that the Model Expo cannons had no holes for the trunnions drilled into the barrels. I build a simple jig to drill out the trunnion holes and then turned to fitting the handles.

The first step was to remove the cascabel with a sharp pair of Xuron cutters. I then used the disk sander to smooth and flatten the breech. I drilled a straight perpendicular hole in a piece of hardwood, just a bit slammer in diameter than the cannon barrel. Using a "force fit" I was able to wedge the barrel in the wood so it wouldn't spin when I drilled the hole for the handle. The handles themselves were 3/64" diameter brass rod cut to length with a 90 degree bend at the end. I put a few drops of CA glue, allowing each to dry before adding another, to form the "knob" at the end of the handle. This was painted flat red.

The mounting brackets were made of sheet brass cut to shape and then silver soldered to a length of 1/16" brass rod. Holes were drilled for the trunnion to pass trough the brackets and the barrels. The gun was held together with gel CA glue.



 

Thanks guys!

I fashioned and fitted 2 swivel gun pedestals, one on each side to the model. These are located over the main mast channels and pass through them. Granado carried 12 - 1/2 pounder swivel guns, each 3 feet in length. The problem is that there is no commercial source available for a half-pounder swivel in 1/32 scale! I'd have to make my own.

I was able to find some brass cannons at Model Expo that were 1-1/4" in length. If I cut off the cascabel they were 1-1/8" - exactly three scale feet. Perfect. The only problem was that the Model Expo cannons had no holes for the trunnions drilled into the barrels. I build a simple jig to drill out the trunnion holes and then turned to fitting the handles.

The first step was to remove the cascabel with a sharp pair of Xuron cutters. I then used the disk sander to smooth and flatten the breech. I drilled a straight perpendicular hole in a piece of hardwood, just a bit slammer in diameter than the cannon barrel. Using a "force fit" I was able to wedge the barrel in the wood so it wouldn't spin when I drilled the hole for the handle. The handles themselves were 3/64" diameter brass rod cut to length with a 90 degree bend at the end. I put a few drops of CA glue, allowing each to dry before adding another, to form the "knob" at the end of the handle. This was painted flat red.

The mounting brackets were made of sheet brass cut to shape and then silver soldered to a length of 1/16" brass rod. Holes were drilled for the trunnion to pass trough the brackets and the barrels. The gun was held together with gel CA glue.



 

Hi Pat!  Not really necessary to seal the balsa.
 
The next task was to thin the bulkhead extensions.  They were left thick to allow fairing of the outside of the hull.  The inside surfaces then need thinning.  I use X-Acto blades and a Proxxon detail sander with 60 grit adhesive backed sandpaper.  Worked well.  No broken extensions because of the two thicknesses of basswood ninety degrees to each other.   
 
 
 

I fitted the bow and stern filler blocks.  They are balsa wood so they shaped easily.     The filler blocks and the frames were then faired.  No problem with any of the bulkhead extensions breaking due to the double thickness of cross-grained basswood making up the bulkhead blanks. 
 
 
 

As mentioned, the sub deck is made in two pieces.  I used 1/32” plywood because it bends easily and you can cut it with a pair of scissors!  Since there is a second final layer of decking, I wasn’t too concerned about how tight the tolerances were for the notches that accommodate the bulwark extensions.  I framed in the mast step on the profile former, drew a centerline on both pieces of subdeck, drilled the mast hole and then glued down the sub deck using 30 minute epoxy and those little yellow nails that come with every model ship kit!  When the glue dried I removed the nails.  The next task is bow and stern filler blocks.  There is a bluff bow and the stern is pretty rounded also.  
 
 

Chapman Hoy Scratch Build 1:48 scale


This will be my log for a 1:48 scale (actually 1:50 scale as all the plans are metric) scratch build of a Chapman Water Hoy. A hoy is a small vessel, designed to move cargo and supplies to and from ships and the shore. These included provisions, munitions, fresh water etc. Hoys were sloop-rigged, with a mainsail on a gaff, but loose-footed (no boom). Fifty tons burthen was typical for size. This hoy had a large beam and draft for her length to maximize carrying capacity. The Chapman Water Hoy was designed by Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, a Swedish ship designer in 1768. This is an odd little ship but very interesting and with a simple rig. She was built for a life of hard work. The photos show three drawings of the vessel and a model photo i found on the internet.

Another reason I chose her to build is to spare the world another "Victory" or "Syren" build log! LOL!!
 
 
 

Here are the finished mast, boom gaff and bowsprit.  Made of mahogany with 3 coats of poly and the tips painted white.

I carefully laid out the location for the inboard and outboard scupper ports.  The scupper tubes, made of lead on the real ship, were made of blackened brass tubing and glued into place.
 
 

 

I carefully laid out the location for the inboard and outboard scupper ports.  The scupper tubes, made of lead on the real ship, were made of blackened brass tubing and glued into place.
 
 

 

I carefully laid out the location for the inboard and outboard scupper ports.  The scupper tubes, made of lead on the real ship, were made of blackened brass tubing and glued into place.
 
 

 

I carefully laid out the location for the inboard and outboard scupper ports.  The scupper tubes, made of lead on the real ship, were made of blackened brass tubing and glued into place.
 
 

 

I carefully laid out the location for the inboard and outboard scupper ports.  The scupper tubes, made of lead on the real ship, were made of blackened brass tubing and glued into place.
 
 

 

I carefully laid out the location for the inboard and outboard scupper ports.  The scupper tubes, made of lead on the real ship, were made of blackened brass tubing and glued into place.
 
 

 

Hey Pat!  I think it's obvious that block and tackle was used to move the mortar.  But there are eight walls to the pit and 4 ring on the mortar bed.  I doubt they were all fitted with tackle.  That would be a snakepit of rope in the mortar pit!  A pair of block and tackle rigs with hooks on each block to attach to the rings could move the mortar.  They could be removed and attached to any pair of rings chosen!  Makes sense!
 
Some of you have noticed the odd relationship between the center gun port and the mortar pit. I puzzled over that myself. First of all, the guns, barrels, mortar etc. in my post above are just sitting there...not glued in place, so I may change the final arrangement. The way the center port sits relative to the pit doesn't allow room to use the inhaul tackle to load the cannon. Nonetheless, there is a gun there, based on Lightly's model which has been on permanent display at the NMM in Greenwich. Below are three photos. The first clearly shows a cannon in the right lower corner without enough room to be hauled in for loading due to the mortar pit. The second photo (hard to see) shows a cannon in that position AT AN ANGLE! Could the gun have been turned and run in for loading at an angle to clear the pit? If so, why was this arrangement used in the first place? A design flaw? The third photo is my model with the gun at the center gun port placed at an angle, as discussed above.

This odd placement may have had something to do with the fact that, although built as a bomb vessel, Granado was initially fitted as a sloop of war! She was converted back to a bomb vessel later in her career. Perhaps the odd center gunport was a vestige of her sloop days? Who knows!
 
 
 

Here are some shots of my progress on the main deck.

Single and double blocks made from scratch.  The wood is swiss pear finished with boiled linseed oil.  The single blocks are 1/4" long (8" in scale) and 3/16" wide with a 1/8" thickness.  The double blocks are 1/4" long, 3/16" wide and 3/16" thick.  The sheave holes are drilled with a #60 drill to accommodate .025" diameter gun tackle line.  The penny gives size perspective.
 
 
 

Thanks Pat and everyone for the "likes"!
 
I turned some barrels and buckets awhile ago to fill out the detail for the two battle stations.
 

Thanks, Pat.  Those are holes drilled in the trucks and darkened with pencil lead!
 
I finished up the main hatch by adding the eyebolts and rings to the covering boards.  Both are made of .032" diameter brass rod, blackened with Brass Black.
The eyebolts are made with a jewelry making tool known as a "looper".  The rings are annealed brass rod, using a torch, which is blackened, then wrapped around an appropriate sized drill bit and cut free with a wire cutter.

I'm back at it, and started working on fitting the battle stations to the model.  I'll show two long gun emplacements just as Jeff's plans call for.  Then I realized there was a mistake on the plans!  Jeff calls for the guns to be 12 pounders.  Granado originally carried eight 4-pounders.  The carriages I've built previously are too low for the gun ports!.  I decided to scale the long guns Jeff designed for his Battle Station plans and scale them as 4-pounders.  I like the style of these guns, also.  I get tired of the saw tooth pattern on the brackets of classic English cannon carriages!
The first two photos are the 4-pounder carriage that were too short.  The others are the final long guns for the model.  No cap squares yet!