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About Snug Harbor Johnny

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Gender
Male
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Location
Southeastern Pennsylvania
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Interests
history, craft projects
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic: USCG Harriet Lane by _SalD_ - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic: Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic: Carrack by Alvb - scale 1:250 - CARD - after Pieter Bruegel's "Landscape with the Fall of Icarus"
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic: The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50
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Get well soon. I've been there - done that 4 times in the past ... twice with laser lithotripsy in each ureter (catheter required for recovery), and twice with ultrasound in the kidneys (required slant inversion to pass all the 'gravel'). Since mine were calcium stones, a potassium citrate pill twice a day (to increase solubility of calcium oxalate) , plenty of hydration (to maintain diluted urine) and limiting foods containing significant oxalic acid has kept stone formation at bay for 7 years so far.
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic: Greetings from Sydney
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Greetings from Sydney
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to Andreas Weber's topic in New member Introductions
G'day, mate ! -
thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic: Hobby Laser Machine
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Hobby Laser Machine
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to kgstakes's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
My Admiral has an ETSY shop that does generate income, but she started with a hobby many years ago. Then started making things for a few people here and there, then started selling at craft shows - all the time increasing her skill and expertise making historical costumes. The ETSY platform had a slow start, but clientele and reputation were successively built so that it h as become an effective 'side hustle'. See what happened with Syren products, and then with Ropes of Scale. Its all about finding a niche market and supplying it. Its what free enterprise is all about. Best of luck mate, at whatever you do ! Johnny -
To prevent a wire drill from 'skating around', mark the location with a mini prick punch - tapping the punch gently over a metal support (vise or even a thick piece of steel stock). The workpiece can be secured with whatever jury rig works, and the exact position of the punch mark (if done very lightly) can be 'walked' by angling the punch in the direction you want the mark to go. Then tap with a mini center punch to get the correct drill angle.
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pacomb reacted to a post in a topic: New member from Spain
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Paul Le Wol reacted to a post in a topic: The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50
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Ahoy, mate - and welcome aboard. Your build looks good, and you can post progress pictures as you go. From what I've seen, there are various methods of treating copper tape - so it may be wise to experiment with some of them on a trial board to judge the effect. Left alone, the copper should gain a brown patina over time - and you are building for your family to enjoy far into the future.
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Ahoy, mate - and welcome aboard. By chance, I've written a historical novella for teen readers that features a green parrot named Paco - so named by a Mexican boy who collected the chick from a nest and helped raise the bird (not knowing that the Amazon was female). 'Paco' received advice from El Loro and Pappagallo (two Cotorras kept as house pets) on how to deal with people, since she was destined for the U.S., where she'd learn how to sing and choose her own name - Diva.
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Rob, it looks like the hood is fashioned to fill the entire gap between it and the cutwater - making for a solid assembly with no gap between (so stronger). This would be as opposed to just two angled pieces attached to both sides, having a gap behind. Perhaps a picture from directly below would illustrate your construction to advantage.
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'Fairing' (sanding angles to) the bulkheads, especially in the fore and aft areas, will help - bending a springy wire over the frames will show both high and low spots needing fairing. Prying off what is there and re-planking is recommended at this stage, which is not too far gone. Using thinner planks to begin with (so the ones supplied can be cut in half lengthwise, if even by using a steel ruler and multiple cuts with an X-acto knife), as well as tapering the planks toward the ends will help greatly. Soaking the planks in warm water until soft will also help. Then before gluing, going over the plank with a warm to hot iron will increase flexibility and drive off excess water. Use wood glue (like Titebond), and the glue will penetrate the mating surface of the damp plank and not affect the bond.
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Welcome aboard, mate !
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Pin holes for the masts ... a great idea !! (I never thought of that.) I'm not glueing masts into their sockets anyway, since the rigging will hold them in place AND allow for someone down the road to repair or renew the rigging later. The masts will then be removable to do whatever work may be needed decades from now. A challenge is to drill is a hole for the bowsprit at the right angle, and there are examples where the vertical (or horizontal) angle is off in either direction. A hole for pinning may just solve the problem in that location as well, and bowsprit rigging can perfect the spar angle both in the vertical and horizontal planes. A small lathe or a drill jig can assure a central, straight pin hole in the end of the mast or bowsprit dowel.
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I'd might prepare the correct mast locations before decking everything in, by adding extra material on either side of the mainmast location (& the 4 corners of the new fore and mizzen locations, since they are at an intersection of frame members). Then after decking, a drill press with the hull held in a jig (allowing for rear mast rake) and a forstner or other wood bit would make decent holes.
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