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Snug Harbor Johnny
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About Snug Harbor Johnny
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uscharin reacted to a post in a topic:
Cutty Sark by uscharin - Sergal - 1:78
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RVB reacted to a post in a topic:
USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot)
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RVB reacted to a post in a topic:
USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot)
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I forgot to mention that I've cut a dolphin striker (and a few other fittings) from sheet brass of appropriate thickness using a jeweler's coping saw. At first it looks a little rough, but I cut a little away from the scribe line so it can be cleaned up with miniature files. It sure beats the plastic striker in the Revell kit.- 100 replies
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- Sergal
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robert952 reacted to a post in a topic:
USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot)
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robert952 reacted to a post in a topic:
USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot)
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robert952 reacted to a post in a topic:
USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot)
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paul ron reacted to a post in a topic:
What is CA glue and how does it work?
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Cutty Sark by uscharin - Sergal - 1:78
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Per your previous post, I've had to do 'shop vac diving' a few times ... and most of the time could retrieve an item accidentally sucked into the vac - except for a couple of tiny items. I've also learned, before sweeping or vacuuming the floor, to get down on hand and knees with a flashlight to provide low-angle light to search for any little thing that may have dropped down since the last sweeping. I also have used paper printouts for scrollwork decorations. Screenshots of such details from an old photo can be adjusted in Photoshop for detail and sizing, printed out, then carefully cut out. (Thanks for the tip of cautiously using CA to strengthen the paper.) After application on a model, a compatible sealer coat will protect the applied decoration.
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Cutty Sark by uscharin - Sergal - 1:78
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Kenchington reacted to a post in a topic:
Flying Fish by Michael Collins - 1:36.7 - from 1951 Model Shipways plans
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Don't forget a time-tested alternative ... Linen. Now decent scale rope of linen is hard to come by (old time modelers use "Old Cuttyhunk" fly fishing line - out of production since the 1940s), but I suppose one could make their own with a Syren Rope Rocket or alternative rig ... yet fine linen thread has relatively limited availability and is expense, at that. Fine linen fabric ('lawn') is also hard to find, but the 70+ year old sails on a restoration I've worked on are still in good enough shape to re-use. Linen can last for many hundreds of years (e.g. Shroud of Turin) and there are samples of 2,000 year old Egyptian linen cloth.
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Safe and sound at home again, let the waters roar, Jack. Long we've tossed on the rolling main, now we're safe ashore, Jack. Don't forget your old shipmate, faldee raldee raldee raldee rye-eye-oh!
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
At what age would you feel comfortable getting a youngster a beginner ship model?
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot)
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Ahh the Tennessee build ... THATS where I remember the 'sewing' method for ratlines from. There are so many helpful tips and techniques on MSW, I should have started a notebook to record the log and post each good idea came from ... too late now, but I remember many of them.
A beginner may have to go through a number of build logs to absorb these techniques, which is daunting to some, but I thought it part of MSW's allure.
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot)
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot)
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The divots on the copper bottom look great. As for the proposed clove hitches, at 1:144 scale, an easier way would be to 'sew' each ratline through the shrouds (with a paper guide in the back to keep the line straight) with a fine needle. Then tie just the end points with a cow hitch. The trimmed end of the line (after a tiny bit of glue to secure the hitch) will face inward - which looks better than the little 'tails' sticking outward from the end shrouds that one often sees on models.
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Bluenose by TerryPat - Model Shipways - 1:64
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
USCG Harriet Lane by Knocklouder - Model Shipways - 1:144 (1/12 inch = 1 foot)
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I rolled divots with a modified (hand filed) pattern wheel to represent steel hull plates on a project (over existing paint), and they looked OK after a re-painting. Someone on MSW recently used wheels from a dermal roller to make tiny divots in a copper bottomed model. I suspect that a combination of light ruled horizontal scribe lines (with vertical divisions), followed by the dermal roller done over the base coat, would 'telegraph' through the final coat enough to resemble laboriously applied copper plates ... with random tacks in the the plates themselves.
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I suppose it depends on which wall location one is looking at, and also the height of the interior space. E.g., a cabin wall that is the hull of the ship would logically be planked horizontally due to the many hull frames and curvature. A simple interior partition with a fore-and-aft orientation might comprise a 'header' nailed to the overhead beams and one on the deck, with vertical planking between them. But if framing is done (similar to a wall in a home), then horizontal 'ship lap' would be most common.
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When you can can get a good buy on an older kit, that's one way to beat inflation. I queried for the scale of all Model Shipways versions of the Harriet Lane and wondered which one you got. A search result is pasted below: Model Shipways has offered the Harriet Lane in multiple scales, but the current main kit is 1:96 scale, a larger plank-on-bulkhead version, while older solid hull kits were available in 1:120, 1:128, and 1:144 scales. Key Scales & Kits: 1:96 (Current): A plank-on-bulkhead kit with laser-cut parts and detailed fittings, designed by David Antscherl and available from Model Shipways. 1:128 (Older): A solid hull kit with machine-carved hull, often found on resale sites. 1:144 (Older): Another solid hull version mentioned in forums. 1:120 (Very Old): An even earlier version of the solid hull kit. When buying, always check the product description for the specific scale, as Model Shipways offers versions from different eras.
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We'll look forward to seeing those projects, mate !
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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The journey of a hundred miles begins with a single step. Fair sailing, mate!
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Good 'Hobby Quality' Metal Lathes
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to tmj's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Per the above posts (I have the Unimat SL - compact but adequate for what I've done) - the back pulley on the Unimat 3 should be flipped so the largest wheel is on the outside. That way, the small wheel on the output pulley will line up with the large back wheel for a better speed reduction that is further reduced by a second belt going from the inner small wheel of the back pulley set to the larger pulley on the spindle pulley set. The motor does make noise, but has been in occasional use for decades. I'll look for any lubrication point. The unit is metric, so 1mm is about 39.5 thousandths. You have to figure that a cut will take twice that off the diameter, and be careful to 'creep up' to the size you want (measured frequently) - hence light cuts, but efficiency is not a factor in one-off work. Yet once a setup is perfected (sometimes a jig or holding fixture is developed from scrap), multiple parts can be made with OK accuracy ... just not high-precision. -
Yeah, I make misteaks ... so I rely on spell Czech.
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Good 'Hobby Quality' Metal Lathes
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to tmj's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Since my Unimat was given to me free from my Dad (I don't think he ever used it) I've hung on to it for a variety of odd jobs: e.g. turning aluminum barrel extensions and parfocalization rings for 2" telescope eyepieces (about the limit for the little lathe, using a 4 jaw independent chuck and light cuts all around for the o.d. and i.d.); altering large caliber brass casings for an antique Spencer carbine (3 jaw universal chuck comes in handy); turning small diameter steel parts for antique gun locks. (The underpowered lathe can only handle small diameter/light cut work in mild steel ... seems the unit was intended for brass & aluminum.); turning and/or tapering masts and spars for ship modeling. I found some largish rubber o-rings to use as belts, and generally set the belts for the lowest speed. Some tooling can be found on line, like a milling table, tool bits, etc. I should look for a live center. -
Your nice second planking completely conceals any irregularities of the first layer. I had a good look at Chuck Passaro's 4 part planking video again (not that I've done any planking in a long time (I have a couple solid hulls going), and see the good effect of marking, tapering and side bending. It gives me the idea of using veneer to over-plank a solid hull to get real look of planking - even if the hull is painted ... the plank lines and some of the grain will telegraph through a thin paint layer. (ref. the 1st video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM ) I saw a posting of building a ship's boat in an HMS Beagle log, and Chuck's taper methods could easily apply to get a better result on those darn little built-up boats found in a number of current kit offerings. Now the laser cut ribs come a bit thick as supplied, but they could be duplicated in thinner stock or simply thinned by sanding (but not too thin lest they break easily ... OCcre does have the builder glue the ends of the extended ribs to a piece of wood to build on to support the unplanked skeleton.) You can see the glitches with the untapered planks in the photos below - later fixed with filling and sanding). Tapering for smaller sized hulls may be a bit finicky, but should still work much the same as on larger hulls.
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