Snug Harbor Johnny
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About Snug Harbor Johnny
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This aspect of the log provides real educational value. Firstly, I see now the need for reinforcement of the extended (prow) part of a clipper cutwater (or many 19th c wooden ships). It's not a single piece, but a buildup of many shaped sections joined together. Even though the wood is thick (what, around a foot?), it still can only take so much force before breaking, and a heavy ocean wave encountered at a side angle can present a massive amount of force. On the C.S. and big T, the (typical) reinforcement goes from the sides of the hull (incorporating the hawse hole) out to the sides of the cutwater to make a sturdy triangle when bolted through. McKay's hood is located higher up and joins over the the top of the cutwater. Perhaps this innovation presents greater streamlining in rough seas, and a small advantage over a long voyage amounts to a time savings that might amount to a couple days or more - not inconsiderable for the original purpose of the China Tea trade. There may be other factors not immediately seen as well. Everything on a sailing ship had a purpose, and even though my project is not a McKay design, the information in this log helps me appreciates important construction details. Now I suppose that a clipper with a naval hood that is Christened 'Robin' could be said to have (here it comes) ... a Robin Hood ? -
Ah, swivel guns ... anti personnel should an enemy board and gain ground. And the 'apparent' barrel size is exaggerated by the artist (as well as the upward angle) - but the concept makes perfect sense. The 'large' guns were located in the main hull for broadsides and to stabilize the ship. This is why I think that overloading the Mary Rose with armored fighters and equipment on all decks (and also in the fighting tops) were likely what put her 'over the top' (topsy turvy, actually) in stability.
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BANYAN reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Um, I suppose a gang of Pirates could be considered navel 'hoods' ... 😉
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Golden Hind 1578 by Knocklouder - Airfix - 1:72 - PLASTIC
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Endurance by GiddyGibberish - OcCre - 1:70
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
Starting a Hobby Shop
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Ryland Craze reacted to a post in a topic:
Starting a Hobby Shop
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You could consider starting an ETSY shop online. The overhead costs are minimal if it is home-based, and ETSY collects applicable sales taxes and handles the money side of the transactions ... although there are fees for that. It took my Admiral a couple years to gain a reputation for her historic costume products, but she's done OK as a 'cottage industry'.
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Norske Love by DanielNG10 - Billing Boats - 1:75
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Golden Hind by JimO - FINISHED - 1/35 scale - based on Airfix 1/72 scale with modifications
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Check out the current Gokstad build, where the builder just marks rivets with a pencil point.
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James H reacted to a post in a topic:
'Oseberg' Viking Ship (v3) by James H - Ships of Pavel Nikitin - 1/25
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You might try miniature brass nails. The end on the interior below deck would not be visible. The ones above deck would have the ends trimmed with flush cutters inboard. I found some already aged bronze ones that might save you the trouble of finishing. You'd pre drill marked holes with a 'right sized' wire drill (tested on surplus wood first) so not to split the strakes. The heads (from the pictures) look about .046" in diameter - about an inch on the model's scale?
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Golden Hind by Rock_From_Korea - 1:48
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Napoleonic Era Miniatures by Thukydides - 1/700 & 1/1200 - 3D-Printed Hulls
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
SBLim-2A by ccoyle - WAK -1/33 - CARD - Polish license-built MiG-15 variant - a semi-tutorial
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A solid hull isn't needed to drill into for secure fastening of fife rails, etc. - as long as there is a reasonably thick sub-deck below deck planking. Where the sub-deck provided is on the thin side, additional material (say, basswood sheet cut to fit) can be glued between bulkheads flush with their tops to create a sub sub-deck to glue the sub-deck to. There are few things to spoil your day after a model is finished (other than dropping it or breaking the bowsprit) than for a fife rail to break loose (one that was merely glued to the deck planks).
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robert952 reacted to a post in a topic:
The Built-Up Ship Model by Charles Davis: Still Worth Using?
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robert952 reacted to a post in a topic:
Did I ruin my brush?
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
The Built-Up Ship Model by Charles Davis: Still Worth Using?
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Harvey Golden reacted to a post in a topic:
The Built-Up Ship Model by Charles Davis: Still Worth Using?
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MBerg reacted to a post in a topic:
Did I ruin my brush?
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oakheart reacted to a post in a topic:
The Built-Up Ship Model by Charles Davis: Still Worth Using?
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New brushes don't cost that much.
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I'm doing a solid-hull model in basswood using a sliced 'bread and butter' buildup from a drawing of accurate ship's lines (but won't document on MSW until the exercise is complete ... as I don't want to post another unfinished build). Things have so far gone smoothly, and (from a restoration of a 70 year old solid pine model) there are advantages to solid hulls. You can fill and re-paint damage, drill into the hull where needed, pin into the hull anywhere you want - and there is a nice 'heft' to it.
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If you could get it, spermaceti oil would be ideal due to its stability and resistance to high pressure and temperatures - and it was traditionally used to lubricate precision machines ... but it has been illegal internationally for some time under whaling regulations. Either sewing machine oil or clock oil are substitutes. In the late 20th century, jojoba oil was discovered to be a better substitute for high-friction applications because it is even more stable at high temperatures.
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The journey of a hundred miles begins with a single step. Sometimes taking that step is the hardest to do. The famous quote by Bilbo Baggins, as quoted by Frodo, is: “It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out of your door. You step into the Road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there is no knowing where you might be swept off too.”
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I've tried that and it doesn't work. For one thing, the water content in 'Rubbing alcohol' complicates things (70% or 90% IPA is whats readily available). Its also a 'different sort' of alcohol that doesn't work like 'denatured' alcohol (methanol). Pure (lab grade) ethanol can work, but the highest concentration you can get (with paying a lot from a lab supply) is 95% (190 proof) Everclear from a liquor store. I tried that as a solvent for shellac flakes, and the water content still affects the liquid product negatively.
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Wonderbaarlijk !
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The raised method of rail making should work. I saw another builder do something similar with wire and joints soldered with an electronics soldering iron (fine tipped) and thin solder. It looked fine after painting.
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I used both bass and balsa on a hull as an experiment, and found that balsa is a bit soft (but after shaping it can be 'hardened' by applying titebond and rubbing it in a little - then allowed to dry before sanding). Now some balsa may be denser, but dense balsa if hard to find these days (not so 50 years ago for RC planes). You need to mind the grain direction of bass as filler - amidships to app reaching bow and stern, the grain should run fore-and-aft for easier shaping/shaving. Where the curve plunges at the bow, cutting a piece to fit with the grain at a 45 degree angle will limit carving across end grain.
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