Snug Harbor Johnny
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About Snug Harbor Johnny
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Waldemar reacted to a post in a topic:
Mary Rose 1511 — the epitome of the Northern tradition
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Martes reacted to a post in a topic:
Mary Rose 1511 — the epitome of the Northern tradition
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
San Ildefonso by ioanniz - OcCre - Scale 1/70
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They had to do this very trick to the repro GH to make it seaworthy, as shown in the image below. After the modification, it sailed around the world.
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Ryland Craze reacted to a post in a topic:
Hello from Poland!
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Kovalus reacted to a post in a topic:
Hello from Poland!
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Hello from Poland!
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Welcome aboard, mate !
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Pin holes for the masts ... a great idea !! (I never thought of that.) I'm not glueing masts into their sockets anyway, since the rigging will hold them in place AND allow for someone down the road to repair or renew the rigging later. The masts will then be removable to do whatever work may be needed decades from now. A challenge is to drill is a hole for the bowsprit at the right angle, and there are examples where the vertical (or horizontal) angle is off in either direction. A hole for pinning may just solve the problem in that location as well, and bowsprit rigging can perfect the spar angle both in the vertical and horizontal planes. A small lathe or a drill jig can assure a central, straight pin hole in the end of the mast or bowsprit dowel.
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50
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I'd might prepare the correct mast locations before decking everything in, by adding extra material on either side of the mainmast location (& the 4 corners of the new fore and mizzen locations, since they are at an intersection of frame members). Then after decking, a drill press with the hull held in a jig (allowing for rear mast rake) and a forstner or other wood bit would make decent holes.
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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She's looking good, 'yar' that is !
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Golden Hind 1578 by Knocklouder - Airfix - 1:72 - PLASTIC
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Kevin reacted to a post in a topic:
Norske Love by DanielNG10 - Billing Boats - 1:75
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Best White Wood Glue For Ship Building
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'Guess you have a lot of sanding dust. I try and vacuum at intervals for wood chips & dust, metal filings and odd bits. Hmmm, lost pieces get sucked-up too, but by then I already made duplicates and put them in plastic bags.
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Tony Hunt reacted to a post in a topic:
Staghound 1850 by rwiederrich - 1/96 - Extreme Clipper
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oakheart reacted to a post in a topic:
Best White Wood Glue For Ship Building
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When gluing down laser-cut aftermarket wood veneer decks to plastic model decks, PVA craft glue was recommended - and I tried it successfully on a decking project, which required some weights put on top to 'clamp' while curing (to avoid deck edges from curling up). I suppose that contact cement could work in this application ... yeah, I'm aware of what I said about contact cement on wood-to-wood applications elsewhere - but this is wood to plastic over a relative large flat area.
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Dear fellow builders, I regret having used the word "most" when I posted about the possible failure of using contact cement on ship model planking. I've experienced product failure more than once, yet do not have statistical evidence and/or test results to indicate what percentage of failures might occur. So in fairness, I've edited my original post to change 'most' to "some", of which I can personally attest. Please forgive my oversight and premature assessment based on anecdotal evidence. The revised post is pasted below: Some contact cements may not pass "the test of time", depending on the right amount being used with the right procedures (e.g., temperature, humidity, film layer thickness on each surface, correct partial cure before assembly, assembly technique, the absence of air bubbles, clamping pressure, time under pressure, etc,) ... While there are many examples of professionally produced laminated products lasting at least 50 years or more without delamination, there are also examples where cheaper products have failed - like in the 'builder grade' countertop in our kitchen that started failing 15 years after installation (we were the 3rd owners who bought the house 13 years after construction). We lived with it until we could afford to have the kitchen remodeled 10 years later, and wisely chose fused quartz counter tops.
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Some contact cements may not pass "the test of time", depending on the right amount being used with the right procedures (e.g., temperature, humidity, film layer thickness on each surface, correct partial cure before assembly, assembly technique, the absence of air bubbles, clamping pressure, time under pressure, etc,) ... While there are many examples of professionally produced laminated products lasting at least 50 years or more without delamination, there are also examples where cheaper products have failed - like in the 'builder grade' countertop in our kitchen that started failing 15 years after installation (we were the 3rd owners who bought the house 13 years after construction). We lived with it until we could afford to have the kitchen remodeled 10 years later, and wisely chose fused quartz counter tops.
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I suppose they could do a card version of the Mary Rose or Great Harry.
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I find that wood can be re-worked or improved easier than plastic or metal - although a project can easily be multi-media as desired.
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New discoveries are often resisted when presented. Examples: Sea fossil evidence found in the 19th century on mountain tops indicated that the Earth is vastly older than the approximately 4,000 years suggested by the Bible; Darwin & Wallace described Natural Selection as the mechanism of Speciation (still stubbornly rejected by some even today - there is a 'full size' Noah's Ark in Kentucky where humans cohabitate with dinosaurs); Hubble's discovery in the 1920s that there were other distant galaxies - and not 'spiral nebulae' close to us in a 'small' universe; Continental drift due to plate tectonics; that a meteor triggered a mass extinction 60 million years ago that finished-off the dinosaurs ... So it has been throughout history (ever read Carl Sagan's 'The Demon Haunted World'?). Don't be surprised or disheartened, mate - for your research is appreciated by more than a few among us.
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'Don't know about PREAC, but I have a "Chicago Tool" (Harbor Freight) mini saw that came with a far too coarse blade (4" diameter - 40 tooth, .060 kerf) for cutting planks and such for modeling. I needed a fine blade of 100 or more teeth - .040 kerf with a 1/2" arbor. 'Seems that is a DIFFERENT arbor than Dremel or the equivalent, and I had to search the internet to find something. Two brands were found - Tenryu and Warrior. So be sure to know the arbor size and blade diameter for your machine, then search the net for the # of teeth desired ... kerf appears to be proportional to the number of teeth. BTW, the mini saw I have is a cheapie - and I had to improvise a DQC fence for it (DQC = Dirty Quick and Cheap) by clamping wood to the table and adjusting by trial and error (lots of error) each time ... yet it cuts (no guard) 'good enough' for my low standards. Serious finger injury is possible with mini table saws, thus care and attention is required without being in a hurry to do anything.
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This aspect of the log provides real educational value. Firstly, I see now the need for reinforcement of the extended (prow) part of a clipper cutwater (or many 19th c wooden ships). It's not a single piece, but a buildup of many shaped sections joined together. Even though the wood is thick (what, around a foot?), it still can only take so much force before breaking, and a heavy ocean wave encountered at a side angle can present a massive amount of force. On the C.S. and big T, the (typical) reinforcement goes from the sides of the hull (incorporating the hawse hole) out to the sides of the cutwater to make a sturdy triangle when bolted through. McKay's hood is located higher up and joins over the the top of the cutwater. Perhaps this innovation presents greater streamlining in rough seas, and a small advantage over a long voyage amounts to a time savings that might amount to a couple days or more - not inconsiderable for the original purpose of the China Tea trade. There may be other factors not immediately seen as well. Everything on a sailing ship had a purpose, and even though my project is not a McKay design, the information in this log helps me appreciates important construction details. Now I suppose that a clipper with a naval hood that is Christened 'Robin' could be said to have (here it comes) ... a Robin Hood ?
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Ah, swivel guns ... anti personnel should an enemy board and gain ground. And the 'apparent' barrel size is exaggerated by the artist (as well as the upward angle) - but the concept makes perfect sense. The 'large' guns were located in the main hull for broadsides and to stabilize the ship. This is why I think that overloading the Mary Rose with armored fighters and equipment on all decks (and also in the fighting tops) were likely what put her 'over the top' (topsy turvy, actually) in stability.
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