Snug Harbor Johnny
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About Snug Harbor Johnny
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
San Martin by Pfälzer - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:90
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
The Gokstad Ship 900 AD by Siggi52 - 1:50
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Endurance by GiddyGibberish - OcCre - 1:70
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
'Oseberg' Viking Ship (v3) by James H - Ships of Pavel Nikitin - 1/25
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Mary Rose by Baker - scale 1/50 - "Your Noblest Shippe"
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Thermopylae by ScottRC - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC - RESTORATION
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I've tried that and it doesn't work. For one thing, the water content in 'Rubbing alcohol' complicates things (70% or 90% IPA is whats readily available). Its also a 'different sort' of alcohol that doesn't work like 'denatured' alcohol (methanol). Pure (lab grade) ethanol can work, but the highest concentration you can get (with paying a lot from a lab supply) is 95% (190 proof) Everclear from a liquor store. I tried that as a solvent for shellac flakes, and the water content still affects the liquid product negatively. -
thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
Buying Filler Blocks
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Buying Filler Blocks
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Doug Smith reacted to a post in a topic:
Old salt with new beginning
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bowwild reacted to a post in a topic:
Santa Maria Caravelle by GGibson - Ships of Pavel Nikitin - 1:48
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Knocklouder reacted to a post in a topic:
Bluenose 1921 by UrkVisser - Scientific Kit No. 164
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UrkVisser reacted to a post in a topic:
Bluenose 1921 by UrkVisser - Scientific Kit No. 164
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Wonderbaarlijk !
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The raised method of rail making should work. I saw another builder do something similar with wire and joints soldered with an electronics soldering iron (fine tipped) and thin solder. It looked fine after painting.
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SteveBos777 reacted to a post in a topic:
Hi - near Boston MA
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mikiek reacted to a post in a topic:
Buying Filler Blocks
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Ryland Craze reacted to a post in a topic:
Buying Filler Blocks
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Pavel Nikitin Rope?
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I used both bass and balsa on a hull as an experiment, and found that balsa is a bit soft (but after shaping it can be 'hardened' by applying titebond and rubbing it in a little - then allowed to dry before sanding). Now some balsa may be denser, but dense balsa if hard to find these days (not so 50 years ago for RC planes). You need to mind the grain direction of bass as filler - amidships to app reaching bow and stern, the grain should run fore-and-aft for easier shaping/shaving. Where the curve plunges at the bow, cutting a piece to fit with the grain at a 45 degree angle will limit carving across end grain.
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The most durable scale ropes are likely those made with polyester thread - with Gutermann exhibiting the least amount of 'fuzz' at magnification. BUT, after stretching (setting - a needed part of any rope making process) poly line needs to be "set" in a warm oven (320 degrees F) for 5 - 7 minutes. Otherwise there can be unraveling when cut. (If teased, any line can de-twist.) Syren poly rope comes heat-set. I'm presuming that Ropes of Scale is also set, but any batch of poly can be cut-tested and re-set if needed. Cotton line (properly laid and set) has less raveling, but is not ravel proof. I don't know the composition of Nitkin rope, nor the lot-to-lot consistency (process control).
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Old salt with new beginning
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to Doug Smith's topic in New member Introductions
I now have the Cunliffe book - great condition used hard-bound - from Thrift Books, and a printout from Goode's ... Great stuff ! It seem that when taking the largest sails DOWN, the yoke is allowed to go lower to help compress everything along the mast ... so I wonder if the model I photographed was in that mode, noting that the main sail had a few gathers in the extended part of the yard - which is much longer than the gaff. There's no way to know the modeler's intent, so there's an idea to put info like that on the back of the display nameplate ... which should include the date the model was finished and the maker's name - a gift for any future owner. I'm restoring an old model now, and would love to know who made it and when. -
'Glad to have you aboard!
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'Really super ! ... Its amazing to see what can be done in a card medium.
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Old salt with new beginning
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to Doug Smith's topic in New member Introductions
I'll have to 'learn the ropes' on how these ships were handled. -
Old salt with new beginning
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to Doug Smith's topic in New member Introductions
A super job ! ... 'Just love the look. Last year I saw a model for sale (a mere $250) at an antique show, where the sails appeared during the process of raising sail. Again, a fascinating look that I took photos of. That evening I realized I should have bought it then and there for further study - and when I went back on day 2 of the sale, it was already sold. Now I'll just have to build my own someday from the A.L. kit now stashed. Moral: Learn to recognize value and be prepared to act.
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
Snug Harbor Johnny replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You can cut the bunt lines going to the deck by half, if two bunts are a single line passing through a block - whose stropped line pulls the block (and so both bunts passing through that block) up to a another block attached to a back stay, where the haul line is routed to a belay point below. Nix the leech lines and reef tackle, since the sails are furled. As furled sails sit atop the yard and are held by grommet lines, you can save the trouble of doing jackstays - since they'd be covered by the furled sail. Figures from masting & rigging by Underhill pp. 163 (omit block B, and just mount block C higher) & 169
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There are minor adjustments to a couple OcCre bulkheads (noted in my kit review) to make the hull lines closer to those available for the ship - slightly reducing the 'flare' at the bow. The book 'Endurance' is highly recommended - an amazing true story. When it comes to classic ships in the age of Polar exploration, don't forget the Aurora - used by Shackleton in a prior expedition, and it was the 'other' ship in his last adventure - stationed on the opposite side of the Southern continent to pre-position supplies. The Aurora had its own tale of a narrow escape - but was ultimately ill-fated (perhaps from the accumulated stresses).
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It isn't regular Titebond ... but version "II" (2). I've only ever used the 'original' just plain Titebond for years, and older glue does get thicker (for some applications) but has never turned brown. New glue is not expensive, whereas your time spent on a model is priceless. The 'type 2' seems to be also for outdoor applications ... do you plan to leave a model outdoors? If not, stick with the original.
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The Eze tissue is a great idea. Perhaps it is possible to introduce some opacity to the dope with pigment powder. Experimentation is in order. Another method might be (after drying and before mounting) to lightly spray some paint (at a distance) to lessen the translucence. One could also lightly mark the seams and reef lines as well.
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I've made color photocopies from public sources (scaled to fit a model) - printed on paper, cut out, glued to the model and sealed with clear shellac.
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