Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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The figurehead looks great.. I would keep it simple and go with the kit plans.. It makes for a nice looking model. -
Which one is the best ropewalk machine?
Gregory replied to modeller_masa's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I know you are still in the experimental stage, and not concerned with color right now. but so far, your rope lacks something, and I wonder if it is a shortcoming of the Domanoff design. The layup is not very tight, and lacks the look of rope. Actual rope. Compare : To: This from Ropes of Scale. Notice how you can see the individual threads and strands. I believe they use the Rope-Rocket. Here is some of the smallest rope I have made. The individual threads are not as obvious. I believe it is 3 strands of two threads, Gutermann polyester MARA 120. I use a simplified Frolic style mechanism .. I could share more details if you are interested. I'm curious as to your goal in your " studies on rope making " ?
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Which one is the best ropewalk machine?
Gregory replied to modeller_masa's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I make up to four strands, with the option for a central core that I never use. I don't have a problem with my rope not being round. I have heard of, but not tried so far, the idea of using small wire as a core to make rope that could hold it's shape, like for better looking foot ropes. -
Which one is the best ropewalk machine?
Gregory replied to modeller_masa's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Which one is the best ropewalk machine? The one that makes miniature rope that looks like a scaled down version of the real thing. Some rope I made. Here are the components of my first rope maker. What I am using now is not very different in form or function. Some results.. I don't make anything longer than 4 - 5 feet , but it suits my needs. Edit: My ropewalk uses the principles of the one described by Phil Krol found here.. Mine is not quite as elaborate. https://modelshipworld.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=537569
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It should. See my last reply to Chuck.. If it wasn't made clear earlier, the drill head can be positioned away from the provided table, or removed from it all together.
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I will be making a platform to raise the drill press to a working height for the table.. Stay tuned..
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O.K., Call me indecisive. When I was clicking through small vises at amazon, I was presented with this. BACHIN Rotary Table $57.59 Check out the video for an idea of the working parameters. Decent ( cheap ) mini-vises + an X-Y table were pushing if not exceeding that price point. I feel this will give better control than moving a vise around on an X-Y table, and the movement range should be adequate for my needs. I won't have it until Saturday, so won't have an update until then.
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I'm working on putting together a small vice and X-Y table. I will need to elevate the drill press. Hope to post update soon.
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Have not used it a lot, but have not uncovered any concerns. I feel it is well made, and have not detected any play in the mechanism. I don't foresee doing any work with it that would tax it to any extent. If you have any specific task you would like for me to attempt, I would give it a shot if I have the materials available. I think I might be limited by the quality of my bits. I have no reservations about recommending it to anyone who could see this fitting into their work environment.
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I suspect the target demographic doesn't know the difference.. 😁
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Another thing to keep in mind, when you spin your own rope, differences in machinery, set-up and conditions ( humidity, temperature ) an cause subtle differences, not necessarily negligible at scale.
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@Jaager Interesting insight into the tree nailing effect , but do you have any suggestions regarding JFMJr's question regarding how to drive the small nails that come with most kits?
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Hold them with some small needle nose plyers and tap them with a small hammer to get them started. The I would use a small nail setting tool and the hammer to seat them.
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Just moving the pin into the cut-out should do it. See druxey's image above.
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The idea is for the rudder to fit almost flush against the stern post..
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That looks pretty good to me! One small quibble. Those pintle pins should not stand proud of the leading edge of the rudder . .
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I suppose you can, but you are moving out of my area of expertise when you start drawing your own plans. Perhaps someone else can help. It sounds like you may need some good drafting software to do this.
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I am not sure what you are calling ' bridges '...
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The colors from the AL kit should work as well as any..
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Here is the rudder from G Barlow's Cheerful. I think the cutouts for the " pintles " can be interpolated fairly easy. Some lines from the NMM.
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There are some good references in the Cheerful logs. I can't get to them right now, but will dig up something later if you don't beat me to it...
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FWIW Chuck did include scuppers on Cheerful; Aft, as shown in the painting above ( if those are scuppers ) wouldn't make much sense. If I remember correctly, from some of the Cheerful logs, some builders chose not to model them. I have seen several contemporary models that did not show them either. I think it was one of those things that didn't show up on contemporary line drawings because they were taken for granted.
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I would start off by Googling English Galleon Plans and looking at the images. You will have to sort out what kind of costs, if any, you might incur. You will see many options including images where you might be able to infer the run of the decks. If you are not that concerned about historical or architectural accuracy, then what you can infer from these drawings, along with the lines you have, you should be able to come up with the basis for a nice model.
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The decks are not shown in those drawings, so you would need another source to provide that information. When you say " false keel " are you referring to the center longitudinal piece of a plank on bulkhead model? To establish the slots, you will first have to establish the deck/s ...
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