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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Gregory
    When I'm working on my models, I think of it as playing with my toys, so yeah; to each his own..😁
  2. Gregory
    I can't add much too what Barkeater says, and I am in full agreement with him. Those exotics can be really hard on tools, but that said, Ocooch Hardwoods is a great source for dimensioned exotics and domestics. Also, stores like Rockler are a great source for veneer. I like veneer for spiling rather than going the edge bending route..
  3. Gregory
    @mugje Have you considered using veneer to make planks. Stores like Rockler have a good selection of maple..
  4. Gregory
    What carving software is everyone using? I have been looking at Vcarve and/or Meshcam .. They both look very robust, and they have less pricier versions that should meet the needs of a hobbyist.
  5. Gregory
    You may have picked up on this in another discussion, But this Kevin Kennedy guy has some great Fusion 360 tutorials. I'm slowly working my way through them. From lesson 1, I have learned about features I may have never stumbled upon by myself..
  6. Gregory
    Here is a link to the wood handle at UMM-USA https://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=35&osCsid=f9dc1861e067b4dd5620358510e5bd49 A variety of blades and other cutting tools here: https://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_28&osCsid=f9dc1861e067b4dd5620358510e5bd49 P.S. I was going through my ship modeling bookmarks and discovered this: 30 Years Anniversary JLC Micro Saw Pack I forgot I had bookmarked that and never got around to ordering it.. I will, now. Looks like a great value at $22.95 .
  7. Gregory
    What is the actual name of the tool for the purpose of searching on Amazon?
  8. Gregory
    Here is a drawing from Lavery's 'Arming & Fitting -etc.. '
  9. Gregory
    OK, my mistake. The word " pen " did not compute for me.. I haven't actually tried the pens, but I don't see them as a useful modeling tool. I have small cans of stain that I bought ten or more years ago.
  10. Gregory
    My experience with them is that they are just wax crayons.. They work up to a point, but I think you would do better to work with some of the original stain.
  11. Gregory
    You might look at some of the Cheerful logs, as well as Chuck's instructions, available on the Syren website. Chuck references several sources, including the contemporary model. There are several contemporary models in the gallery. You are doing a great job.. Don't get bogged down in minutiae..
  12. Gregory
    What are the dimensions of your brass piece? Do you plan on using the outside of the frame, and just replace the small square panes?
  13. Gregory
    Looks really great, and makes me feel better about not getting much done in the last few months.
  14. Gregory
    Harry12, I wouldn't be obsessed with precisely following the establishments for 17th century ship rigging. There is always the rule of " what looks good, is good " .. Take a look at some of the contemporary models in the gallery here.. Gallery of Contemporary Models from Museums and Private Collections Try to maintain a sense of proportion. The standing rigging will be heavier on larger masts, and will get smaller the higher up on the masts. For the running rigging; heavier on the larger yards, and getting lighter as it goes higher. The rat lines are probably the smallest ropes, and something modelers often make too large. I like to go to Chuck's Cheerful as a great example of rigging that looks proportional. While your three masted ship will have a lot more lines, the principles of look and proportion will remain the same.
  15. Gregory
    Full size is the size of the actual ship.. If you are working in a scale of 1:12, 1 inch on the model would be 12 inches' on the full size ship. If the full size rope circumference is 4 inches, then it would be 4/12 = .333 inches on the model. for diameter, divide circumference by 3.14 Are you working from plans, or just pictures, and have decided on a size for the model?
  16. Gregory
    If you are able to enter data, then you would have entered your scale on the strt page. With this in mind, all measurements you enter would be full size.
  17. Gregory
    I got the little 8mm blade. Want to see if it helps making molding strips and other details, and because it's hard to resist pretty little tools.
  18. Gregory
    @gwish Thanks, you just cost me a hundred bucks.. Couldn't resist..😁
  19. Gregory
    Don't want to clutter up your log, but how did you get the elephant and lion shots? Are they telephoto? In any event, they are stunning!
  20. Gregory
    One more reason why those box blocks are problematic. Note how the sheave holes are close to the center on a lot of them. Again, this is what you get in most kits, and they really spoil the look of the rigging.
  21. Gregory
    You can use a tumbler like the Block Buster. I have my own little version that works better for me.. I have a pretty good stash of Chuck's blocks so I wouldn't go to the trouble of making the kit blocks work these days. But there was a time when it was all the kit builder had. Of course there are some kits like Vanguard, that come with pretty decent blocks.
  22. Gregory
    A little late to this, but I think they would have been hammered in place with a very tight fit. It seems I remember that some of the pillars on the gun deck could be swung up, out of the way, so that would have involved some sort of hinge.
  23. Gregory
    Good info. The finish really looks good.
  24. Gregory
    What was the other 50 ?
  25. Gregory
    I've stained those 'bargain' blocks with Fiebing's Leather Dye.. I'm satisfied with results.. You can see I ended up with some variation, but i think that image is light overall, because my rope is darker than seen in the image. Just a note, based on another user's experience. If you use shellac on the rope and block after it is in place, the dye can leach out into the rope..

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