Gregory

Pintle and gudgeon.

You might already have this Bruce, but just in case.. Of course, it will not be a substitute for the actual scantlings.

Hard to call it a rip off when the seller refunded and is shipping another kit.. Appears to be an honest mistake that was quickly corrected.

Here is a contemporary model of a 20 gun ship of 1730. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66398 Another from 1715.. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66367 There seems to be enough variation to not rule out quarter galleries.

A lot of room to come out ahead of the original painting.

Indeed. I think it's really trivial, and a matter of what suits the builder. I'm thinking I will build with no overhang inboard on the quarterdeck, While allowing some on the gun deck.

A little late to the party, but doesn't this indicate there is a little overhang outboard but not inboard? I still would not consider this the final word since this part of the plans is conjecture and not shown in the NMM drawings.

Syren is at the top of my list, but Crafty Sailor has blocks that look a lot like the ones at Model Expo.

What is your goal in staining? Alcohol based leather dyes like Fiebing's stain wood ( and everything else) very well. I would experiment with dilution before using full strength. A little goes a long way. I haven't noticed any raised grain when I have used it.

With extra points if it's banned in California.

It also has a section on " The British Naval Cutter " I believe Chuck mentioned it was one of his references when designing Cheerful. It's about as fore-and -aft as you can get.

Maybe a little late for this go-round, but having heard from builders in the past about the challenges of mounting pin rails, I came up with a little idea that has worked well for me. I put a little brace under the back of the rail. It gives a larger surface for mounting to the gunwales, and the modification is virtually invisible once in place on the ship.

Thanks a lot for this! I bookmarked it for future reference.. It's unfortunate that a lot of kits provide gratings that scale to 6" openings or bigger, and a beginning kit builder may not have the tools to make their own, or be inclined to spend a lot on aftermarket stuff.. Here is a little grate work I'm doing for my Rattlesnake. This is version 1. Made up from scratch cherry coamings, and the grating is made from a Syren boxwood grating kit. I'm thinking of trying to make the grating from pear to get a little more contrast.

I agree this is a great book to have, but for the cutter Rigging Period-Fore-and-Aft Craft might be a little more helpful.

Here is a contemporary drawing that may be some help. The scale looks to be in feet.

I like the new pins.. Birchwood Casey  Plum Brown creates a nice brown effect on brass, but it is a bit of a pain to use. Involves heating the metal.

Hello, This is a kit that attracted my attention many years ago, and I started a build that I abandoned for one reason or another. I had hopes of making a nice decorator model. I didn't create a build log, but I took a few pictures. I experimented with tree-nailing, but my work in this regard really has it's shortcomings. Something I don't care for on my models anymore. I felt the kit plans for the headrails were really awkward and not anything like I had seen on any actual ship, so I was working on improving that, but it was a feature I didn't finish. ( The mounting base was temporary ) I reached the point where I was going to start the rigging but never went forward, and got distracted by other projects. So I really can't offer any specific suggestions in that regard. I believe if you look at any number of build logs there are some great rigging tricks and tips. Keep in mind that the principles of rigging, and the various ropes needed to get the work done, stay pretty much the same from ship to ship, with the details of little concern unless you are trying to duplicate a documented ship and it's rigging. The amount of rigging would be the main difference, depending on the number of masts, yards and etc.. A book like "The Rigging of Period Ship Models " would provide a lot of information for the general principles. Re-doing the deck shoudn't be too much trouble, If you can acquire some very thin veneer to make your own strips. When I was working on my build, I found the following web site a bit of inspiration: https://www.van-vliet.org/dempseywoodworking/blueshadow.shtml If you Google " Mamoli Blue Shadow " images, you might see some other builds at other locations. I will watch your work with interest and offer any help I can. Gregory

Great re-start!

Nice work so far. In Chrome you can go to the link above and pressing Ctrl + will let you zoom in. I'm surprised the detail is holding up pretty good. The image in the middle is still a mystery to me. Feel free to make something up. 😁

Something seems to have happened to my link.. Try This..

Good stuff Aon @Thukydides I think your work looks pretty good. At a reasonable viewing distance I think it would be hard to beat.. I trust you have seen these images from the science museum. It is the best I have been able to find. I think your colors are as good any others I have seen.

I think the concave would work to good effect and look more like the real thing..

Mondfeld shows 12 to be the waterway. Most modeling convention just uses an angled or rounded strip ( like quarter round on the baseboards in a house) sitting on the the margin plank and against gunwales. This actually leaves a seam which would defeat the purpose of an actual waterway. Modeling the waterway as in actual practice would take a lot of effort, usually reserved for highly detailed POF models. I'm not sure how the margin plank is defined in actual practice. It is not that apparent except where some joggling or nibbing is taking place. In the illustration above, it looks like the margin plank may be an extension of the waterway.

You should check out Lightburn.. If it is compatible with your controller, it has some very powerful features like a tracer that produces vector images. It has a very robust tabbing feature, so you don't have to worry about drawing tabs in your images. Another powerful feature is resizing. You can work with larger images then resize them to virtually any scale. You can also duplicate. For instance for your oars above, just put one set into LightBurn, then, after you tweak it to get it just the way you want, you can make duplicate items and position them however you want in the work area. You can also save your work, and bring it back later with all your changes and settings. If you are interested in a particular feature, let me know and I will try to answer, though I am still learning.

Have you considered card? It glues and paints much like wood. I was asking for dimensions so I could experiment with my laser. A certain amount of lamination might be part of the process. It wouldn't be a problem to mail you some results if you are interested..