Gregory
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Blades for Artesania Latina Cutter
Gregory replied to brunnels's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
They have these at Cornwall Model boats You might be surprised how low the shipping can be. Very competitive with cost from someplace like Micromark or ModelExpo. Ages of Sail has what looks like the same thing for a different tool. You would have to check the dimensions. -
How hard would it be to make another rudder?
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The forward edges should definitely be rounded, otherwise the movement would be highly restricted.
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Do the plans show a profile for the rudder? Maybe there should be some more taper on the forward edge.
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Do you have a picture? Trying to understand what you mean by gluing the planking together. Are you saying gluing the planks onto the frames? What type of CA? Medium consistency or gel should work.
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Because developing a totally new kit is very costly? Put a bunch of old parts in a new box and see who bites.. You might make enough money to develop a new kit.
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That does look like a very nice kit, with a lot of detail due to the new techology available such as laser cutting and PE. However , I would really like to see some more realistic columns instead of those generic balusters that have been around for 40 years and part of innumerable kits from any number of kit manufacturers.
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Yes Yes After you add the pictures, you can place the cursor to the right of a picture and press 'enter. You may then add text under the picture.
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Woodwork/Model making workshop. Scale 1:1
Gregory replied to Charter33's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I think it's a Model making workshop..😁 -
Dead. Deadeyes.. I guess we're still on topic..😁
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It's really hard to see the vise in your image and how it might integrate with the drill press we are discussing.
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Is this still a problem? I see a lot of 1/8 shank milling tools out there. Are they not considered standard?
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Here is a video of a very small drilling operation. Drilling.mp4 This is a little block of boxwood. It is very dense and hard. Note that the slight motion you see is the the camera moving. Looking at the spindle in relation to the background shows how stable it is.
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I don't think it should be. It's a good place to share experience and ideas about machines of comparable size. It might be a good idea to limit it to these " mini " machines, and not try to compare performance to machines that are much bigger.
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I'm reading through the book " Legacy of a Ship Model " by Rob Napier . Something I noticed, and have seen on other contemporary models, is that the deadeyes are almost spherical . Does anyone know if this was just a modeling convention, or if actual practice ever consisted of deadeyes shaped like this?
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It just means do not post modeling content in this forum.. It is for help with forum use and features. Brain farts are ok in this forum..
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What would you have me do to determine if this machine is adequate for the work I plan to do?
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I have not detected any play in the head at all. The chuck is as finally made as any I have seen. I am not interested in investing anymore to make this a "better " machine. I could have paid a lot more and got a lot less.
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
Gregory replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You may have this picture but it shows a little more detail. It looks like some copper vessels that allowed for a larger volume of liquid to be discharged as opposed to just the diameter of the main pump body. Another view. This appears to be a different set of pumps consisting of two pumps.
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One option would be to sand as much as you need to, to Smoot things out and not worry about breaking through that layer, then go with another layer. I wouldn't hesitate to abandon a project if I felt I wasn't meeting my goals.
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Another quick little job. I didn't set this up as tight as I could have. I wasn't concerned with small deviations, but maybe should have been. These pieces are the tentative quoins for my tentative Rattlesnake cannon. I needed a hole to insert the quoin handle. With hind sight, a little jig to do them securely one at a time, would give me more precision.. Next time. Still in prototyping phase. Experimenting with mahogany for some contrast on the gun deck, as I have chose not to paint. I will probably go back and do a better job of centering the quoin handles, because it's one of those things I would lose sleep over. Anyway, just another sea trial for the drill press. It is really up to the task, but I need to prep better.
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The wood is cherry.. There are a lot of good ring ideas in the forum. I've been trying to learn something from Chuck Passaro. He designed and made Cheerful, Winchelsea and other models. Here is some of the latest info on ring and eyebolt making that he posted.
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I did a little milling operation today. I'm working on some cannon for my Rattlesnake, and they require a lot of split rings and eyebolts. This method has been gleaned from a lot of discussion about making these things. I would have to say Chuck Passaro is my primary instructor on this. I have wrapped some 24 gauge annealed steel wire around a #56 drill bit fixed in a dowel. All the X, Y and Z adjustments took a little doing and there were a few oopsies before I got it where I wanted it. The tool is a .009 separation disk. Chuck P. says he has a saw he uses, but I have decided to go with this. Anyone who uses these discs can attest to how fragile they are. It's not unusual for me to break one just setting it up in the mandrel. If this set-up were not tight, the disc would not make it through the job. I can actually hear/feel a little click when one of the rings is cut through. This picture is toward the end of the operation. Here is the result. The one with a circle around it snuck in from an earlier effort with a different method. The open rings close up almost flush with very little pressure.
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