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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Gregory
    While I agree CAD is great for visualizing the entire ship, in the end, the laser is a 2D tool. Accurately produced 2D drawings are ultimately what you need to drive a laser, and they can be produced as accurately in a 2D environment as in a 3D one.
  2. Gregory
    I like the version from a Bob Seeger song: " I wish I didn't know now, what I didn't know then. " 😁
  3. Gregory
    Another consideration will be the software driving the laser. If the laser controller will support it, see if you can get the community to use LightBurn. It is relatively inexpensive and is very powerful. It supports 2D images that it will trace for cutting, giving you the option of skipping the CAD work if you have a good 2D drawing of your frames or other parts.
  4. Gregory
    Not necessarily nicer, but plywood will give you more strength for your framing. Very little, if any will be visible in the end.
  5. Gregory
    Just wait a couple of hundred years and all your boxwood will look that good…😁
  6. Gregory
    I have been meaning to give Thick and Quick a try just to see how it does. CA Does take a little extra care, but a few seconds versus several minutes clamp time means a lot to me.
  7. Gregory
    If it crystallizes, then there is something wrong with the formula, or the way it was used. Properly cured CA is just plastic, with fibers penetrating the wood, creating a mesh that is stronger than wood in some regards. The bond can break under shear stress, but this is unlikely to happen with planking, and not any more so than PVA. The times I have seen a CA joint come apart there was always shared wood on the two pieces, which means the wood broke before the glue did.
  8. Gregory
    With checkers up forward, surely you must have chess in the Captains cabin. 😁
  9. Gregory
    I can't say that I used any verifiable reference.. I'm sort of a " if it looks good ( to me ) it is good " modeler. I think I more or less settled on the length shown in the kit plans. The kit shows a jib boom as well as a bowsprit and I feel it has a balanced look, that I decided to go with.
  10. Gregory
    I think we need a picture and some context. Aren't knightheads two timberheads adjacent the stem? I am not aware of any specific rigging per se.. From Mondfeld.
  11. Gregory
    Take a match to it ( not too close ). If it's poly it will melt, if it's natural fiber it will burn.
  12. Gregory
    If you look at my Resolution build you will see that the Corel kit is based on the lines of Ferret. Corel forgoes the gammoning and rigs the bowsprit much like what is found on the later cutters. I have yet to see any ship similar to this. The Corel kit has many features that deviate from actual practice, so there is no good reason to assume their treatment of the bowsprit is based on good evidence. While the contemporary lines of Ferret says the ship is a cutter rigged sloop, I believe this relates more to the mast placement and sail arrangement and doesn’t account for a moveable bowsprit like found on cutters. PS FWIW The gammoning you see in the Chapelle drawing is based on educated conjecture and not the drawings he references.
  13. Gregory
    As I said above, just the process of making a cable out of several ropes would have resulted in the opposite twist. I answered my own question in that regard. I suppose the choice of one over the other, would be size..
  14. Gregory
    With some thought, because a cable would have been laid up from ropes, it would have had the opposite twist of the ropes.
  15. Gregory
    Any idea how the lay of the rope affects the use/handling of the rope?
  16. Gregory
    Since you have a laser, have you considered making pieces like these: ... and laying battens in the slots? Your laser cut gratings do look good as they are. Nice square holes. Some lasers don't do that very well at these small sizes.
  17. Gregory
    Autodesk Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists, non-commercial use. It's a little hard to find where they say it is free, but it is still there.
  18. Gregory
    Have you tried Fusion 360 free version for your curve problem?
  19. Gregory
    Have you looked at DrPR’s stuff? Could there be cleats in the shrouds?
  20. Gregory
    From what I can Google, 9 pounder cannon ( which may have been what they were alluding to ) was upwards of 2,200 LBS..
  21. Gregory
    Sort of interesting news story. Wreck was found in 1993 but archeologists are now taking a closer look. 50-gun frigate HMS Tyger Now, get this quote from the article: Really.
  22. Gregory
    Well said.. The biggest challenge is deciding which knot to use in order to “model” the look of actual practice.
  23. Gregory
    @wefalck Great idea but challenging at our level. Think “curling iron “ with a .5mm tip. Polyester melts at about 250c. Perhaps some shaped tweezer-like tools with insulated handles that you keep in a small heated cauldron, then you use the tools and return to the heat source as needed.
  24. Gregory
    Chuck if I may offer another suggestion for coppering the cupola. I used copper leaf and put the part in a bag with some boiled egg to get the patina. I don't doubt that you would get a finer finish than I did with this approach should you try it. My patina is probably a bit harsh.
  25. Gregory
    Sorry Dave, I got sidetracked and forgot about getting you some info on what I use. I use this soldering iron from Amazon. ..and a tip like this. It has a little dial for adjusting the temp fromm 200 to 450 C.. I use about 350 on the polyester thread/rope. A little lower might work. I would set it as low as you can and still have it melt. Too hot and it really discolors the rope. Here are a couple of different knots I made on my ratline practice jig. The excess snipped off with a little nib left behind. that bottom knot is not as small as I would like, but I was just putting together a quick demo. Here is after I melted the nib with my iron. There can be some dark discoloration, but you can minimize that by setting the iron as low as you can while still getting melt. Also, cut the nib as close as you can while leaving something to melt. If the nib is too big you end up with a blob that detracts from the knot. Needless to say, you have to be really careful not to melt any other rigging. Don't ask how I know this.. This method is good for almost any place where you want to minimize a loose end sticking out if you haven't managed to hide it in some other way.

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