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Gregory

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  1. Gregory
    I don’t like to paint, so I look for different woods for contrast. I don’t have tools for milling beyond what I can do with my Proxxon FET. I have a laser for detail work. I go to Ocooch Hardwoods for exotic sheets . I like Rockler and Woodcraft for veneer. I’ll post some samples later of different colors I have used.
  2. Gregory
    I just figured out this device is not available for purchase yet. You who are interested might offer your suggestions to make it better.
  3. Gregory
    FWIW You can download the instructions for Cheerful at the Syren site which will provide a lot of rigging detail. Glenn's Cheerful logs is a great go-to for rigging also.
  4. Gregory
    If I were building the model I would combine information from the AOTS book and the movie replicas. This also sounds like the kind of information a competent builder would do the research for. PS The discussion you linked to above should be as good as it gets here at MSW.
  5. Gregory
    In my opinion it's very easy to set up. Just takes seconds to adjust the fence. Takes a few minutes to change blades- 10-15 max. I've never had a big project like strip cutting that it didn't do well. You will want to source some blades besides the Proxxon. Now, I'm talking about the FET.. I don't see the smaller KS 115 being a good choice for ship modeling.
  6. Gregory
    I have an identical setup as yours including the rod modification. The one shown above from Innocraftsman, while it looks well made, looks limited in its usefulness. The clearance between the head and the table as well as no apparent head travel stop setting.
  7. Gregory
    Table saw: $80 on Amazon The quality is probably adequate for small modeling jobs. Probably not up to precision thin strip ripping for planking. There are several variations as you will see on Amazon. I haven't seen anyone here talking about having one. Drill Press $90 on Amazon. There was a discussion about it here: Innocraftsman is just another storefront for a lot of those China sourced tools. Their prices are considerably more than other places like Amazon, Temu, Ali Express and others.
  8. Gregory
    Whatever you are seeing on Facebook can probably be found on a site you would be more comfortable with like Amazon or Walmart These 'cheap' tools are all coming from China and can be found on may different sites. I never click through adds on Facebook because scams are rampant there. Checking here at MSW is always a good screening process.
  9. Gregory
    Those reef points on the model seem to be artistic license. It doesn't look to me, in light of the brails, the sail would lend itself to being reefed at that point. Then there was druxey's comment. P.S. I'm a little miffed now, because I built my Mary with those reef points because the sail drawn on the plans included them.
  10. Gregory
    Mamoli traditionally has little in the way of useful instructions - how to - for inexperienced wooden kit builders. The original Mamoli plans were large 2-sided drawings that provided numbered part lists . The illustrations showed you how the various parts should look after assembly. Dusek has copied those plans on to several 16 x 12 sheets as well as at least one full size landscape view of the model. This is what the plans and instructions look like. The rigging instructions will look like this. Hope this helps.
  11. Gregory
    The Mamoli rigging plan had the lines indicated here for furling. I suppose they have a formal name that I do no know.
  12. Gregory
    @Cleat Would you say Vcarve does a good job of converting a 2D image into a3D surface for carving?
  13. Gregory
    I remember someone mentioning a CA that is not as volatile as most. I’ll see if I can dig up the reference.
  14. Gregory
    Great start on your re-boot of that model. Let me know if I'm cluttering up your log too much, but you have really got me thinking about going forward with my Mary II.. I found this superb link to a model by Lloyd McCaffery. There are a couple of downloadable PDF's of some of the details and also contemporary reference drawings/painting. Mamoli did a great job of creating the details of this kit.
  15. Gregory
    Great! Here is a link to a 3D model of the wreck. It's included in the linked article but I thought I would provide a shortcut.. Schooner Trinidad (1867-1881) - 3D model by Zach Whitrock (@Whitrzac) [3d14b04]
  16. Gregory
    Did you by chance check out " Mesh Cam ". Your experience with VCarve has me leaning in that direction, but Mesh Cam looks pretty robust also. I like this info from their web site:
  17. Gregory
    Any indication if it will include rigging detail?
  18. Gregory
    You made me dig out my digital copy of that Ships in Scale volume to confirm it's a great article. I have my 2nd Mary kit on the shelf and look forward to getting around to it some day. There is a Mary-like model of a ship called Max Emanuel built by Theodor Klaas. It has some amazing detail that I would strive to incorporate on my next Mary Max Emanuel One of the detail images.
  19. Gregory
    They also have Midwest Birch plywood.
  20. Gregory
    Robert, It looks like Tom hasn't visited MSW in a while. You might look for a Pegasus build that has more recent activity. Just do a search for "Pegasus " ..
  21. Gregory
    @Stuka Regarding Lees, he makes no mention of cutters, but some details might apply to cutters in a general way. I have found it more useful for describing some detail in these discussions than I have for rigging a model.
  22. Gregory
    That rope looks very good. My experience has been that irregular laying up occurs if I don’t have tight, equal tension on all the strands. You have inspired me to experiment with a wire core. I'll let you know what happens.
  23. Gregory
    Are you saying you have trouble with 4 strands without a core?
  24. Gregory
    I have that type of rope walk and have considered trying to use a wire core to make it easier to fashion foot ropes and such. I fail to see a good reason for using a rope core, other than increasing the diameter of the the rope, and that can be done with additional strands or yarns, or bigger thread. Because the rope contracts as it is laying up, the wire would have to be free floating and shorter than the starting length of the strands. I would have to experiment with how to accomplish that, if at all.
  25. Gregory
    Here is one of the discussions I referred to: Of particular note is a link to high resolution photos of the model. Rigged model of a late 18th century naval Revenue Cutter Looking at the model, Petersson's book follows it very closely if not perfectly. Still, there is the question of whether or not the model was rigged accurately. If you go through that topic carefully, we found many differences between several models, and none of it necessarily wrong. In the end, if the rigging reflects what would make the ship sail as a ship is supposed to sail, I would say it's good.

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