Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Laser cannon bracket
Gregory replied to mediocremodeler's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Since you have a laser, have you considered making pieces like these: ... and laying battens in the slots? Your laser cut gratings do look good as they are. Nice square holes. Some lasers don't do that very well at these small sizes.
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Autodesk Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists, non-commercial use. It's a little hard to find where they say it is free, but it is still there.
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Have you tried Fusion 360 free version for your curve problem?
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Have you looked at DrPR’s stuff? Could there be cleats in the shrouds?
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Warship identified off Florida coast 3 centuries after it sank
Gregory replied to Gregory's topic in Nautical/Naval History
From what I can Google, 9 pounder cannon ( which may have been what they were alluding to ) was upwards of 2,200 LBS.. -
Sort of interesting news story. Wreck was found in 1993 but archeologists are now taking a closer look. 50-gun frigate HMS Tyger Now, get this quote from the article: Really.
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Well said.. The biggest challenge is deciding which knot to use in order to “model” the look of actual practice.
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Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
@wefalck Great idea but challenging at our level. Think “curling iron “ with a .5mm tip. Polyester melts at about 250c. Perhaps some shaped tweezer-like tools with insulated handles that you keep in a small heated cauldron, then you use the tools and return to the heat source as needed. -
Chuck if I may offer another suggestion for coppering the cupola. I used copper leaf and put the part in a bag with some boiled egg to get the patina. I don't doubt that you would get a finer finish than I did with this approach should you try it. My patina is probably a bit harsh.
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Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sorry Dave, I got sidetracked and forgot about getting you some info on what I use. I use this soldering iron from Amazon. ..and a tip like this. It has a little dial for adjusting the temp fromm 200 to 450 C.. I use about 350 on the polyester thread/rope. A little lower might work. I would set it as low as you can and still have it melt. Too hot and it really discolors the rope. Here are a couple of different knots I made on my ratline practice jig. The excess snipped off with a little nib left behind. that bottom knot is not as small as I would like, but I was just putting together a quick demo. Here is after I melted the nib with my iron. There can be some dark discoloration, but you can minimize that by setting the iron as low as you can while still getting melt. Also, cut the nib as close as you can while leaving something to melt. If the nib is too big you end up with a blob that detracts from the knot. Needless to say, you have to be really careful not to melt any other rigging. Don't ask how I know this.. This method is good for almost any place where you want to minimize a loose end sticking out if you haven't managed to hide it in some other way.
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That was always my method till I acquired that little heat gun, and it doesn't leave any soot..😁
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I'm guessing you are talking about these little clamps that are about 2 inches x 1/2 inch. If something else, let me know. I would go with this 1/2" shrink tubing.. I don't think a hair dryer will cut it. I have one of these little Mini Heat Guns, only $13, and it will melt plastic. I have found it useful and convenient for a lot of little jobs. Let me know if you have something else in mind.
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Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Dave, I have used a small soldering iron with a needle-like tip to get rid of the little nib on knots. This is with polyester rope. Doesn’t work for cotton for the reason Allan mentioned. The soldering iron has a temp control. I set it for about 300F. I can dig up some pics if you are interested. -
Put shrink wrap tubing on the ends of those clamps. Wont come off.
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I'm going to miss your belaying pins. Will have to talk Chuck into making some as good as your..
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Do you think parchment paper ( for cooking ) might work better than wax paper?
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Just so everyone remembers what Mike is looking for:
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I've done some stuff close to .5mm on my Proxxon, so I would be surprised if the Byrnes wouldn't do close to that. Of course the blade would be the important factor. That slice is about 1mm before I did any sanding. This is a wood sandwich I made to do some inlay work. Mahogany, ebony and boxwood. A nice even coat of yellow PVA and plenty of clamping. Never had any separation when sawing.
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- Vanguard Models
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Do you have small table saw? You could glue square stock together then slice of strips as thin as your saw will allow..
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- Vanguard Models
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Any tips for getting those bevels so nice and even? They are part of a project I am working on. One false pass, and it's into the scrap pile. Slight variations in the bevel are very obvious at this scale. Yours look machined, but that is typical for your work. I remember when you used to shape blocks by hand ( or so you said 😁 ) and they looked just as good as your CNC blocks.
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Do you want to 'draw' or will scribing work. How long is the strip? Which dimension do you want to draw on? There are several things to consider if I were trying to do this. What are the shortcomings of the tools you have been shown so far? I can understand that the larger tools would not work well for small thin strips. Obviously, the rotary type markers will not determine the center automatically. If it were me, I would use my proportional dividers to mark the center.
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Not sure if the smallest in this set would work for you, but it should be easy to make something that uses the same principle. EZ Center Finder Edit: I see Kauz' tool works on the same principle.
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We know that, but lot's of beginners want to build Victory or Constitution because the look of the sails and all of those guns is what they want over their fireplace. Most of them never come to MSW for our sage advice. They don't want to spend 10 years learning how to build ship models and finally realizing " why did I ever think that kit was a good idea ? " .
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I misunderstood the OP which said "prime "..
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