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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Dziadeczek's comment is one of the best you will get. While you are looking to get it right, you might note that blocks, being part of a tackle would not have been stropped to an eyebolt on the deck like shown in your instructions. There would be a hook on the block and it would hook into the eyebolt. You will see how to strop a block with a hook in the tutorial Dziadeczek posted. From the tutorial.
  2. Strange. The 'pointy' one looks too low here. ..but looks OK here.
  3. I'm looking for a jig, but meanwhile, if you make the stirrups in a uniform manner, all else falls into place.. Here is a search for "stirrups".. Here are a couple of examples.
  4. You should get a lot of feedback on this, but I was particularly taken by a method Chuck demonstrated with Speedwell. Instead of making eyebolts that look like the little jewelry eyelets provided with most kits, one simply makes a U-shape from the wire being used. The following is clipped from the post by Chuck. You then counter sink this "eyebolt" into your work and it looks very realistic. The "hole" you sink it into needs to be a little oval shaped instead of round. I have since observed this feature on contemporary models and artifacts. Here it is on a salvaged gun carriage. Here is an example from a contemporary model. It is really effective for small applications like the gun port lid.
  5. If the choice of wood is unacceptable to you, there is no need to dig any deeper. It looks like all chapters are available at this time if you don't want to wait. You can reduce the price of the build if you choose to leave off some of the internal detail. This is a great option to reduce the cost, and one that would be hard to find with other kit producers. As for the pricing, there are a lot of "Whole kits" that sell for 1/2 or more the price of this kit and probably represent 1/10 the quality, and you could build a dozen of them in the time it will take to complete this model if done right. For most, this hobby is about enjoying the ride. I would venture that many of the builders here have a stash that represents the cost of this kit and more, and many of those kits will never be built by the original owner. How much do you think those kits would cost if they were pear, boxwood or even cherry? If you want cheap, crappy design POF, there is a source for that.
  6. Here is the basic format: Name of the ship by your user name - the mfg name - the scale For example.... HMS Victory by Chuck - Caldercraft - 1:64
  7. Why 100w? I have this 60w iron and it will burn wood. $26
  8. Just to be a little warned, unless it has been corrected in other printings, in the book it says " .166 % ", which will not yield good numbers at all. As I said, I think the calculator at HIS Model which uses the .166 (1/6) of main mast diameter at the deck, will yield good numbers.
  9. While I like the idea of the one in the video, without applying heat in some way, the drying/curing time would be considerable, and I don't see a good bend being permanent without springing back to some extent. I still look forward to experimenting with the idea put forward in the video while allowing for heat to be utilized.
  10. I really do not think there is a commercial version out there. The jig in the video you provided looks really good. I'm going to explore that one. This shot from one of Chuck's videos is about as simple and as good as it gets. I wonder If I could put three clamps and some scraps of wood in a box, call it an "Edge Bender" and sell it for $30 ? 😁
  11. Great info from @palmerit Not much to add, but it looks like the calculator at HiSModel is based on figures from the Mondfeld book Historic Ship Models which I would consider reliable for model building. I would not worry about getting a perfect scale match for all the ropes and blocks you find on a ship. Just a few different sizes to get a balanced look that is not out of scale by a large amount. Many kits have blocks that are too big in the higher rigging, where the rope and the blocks should be smaller. Another good source of scale rope is MSW Sponsor Ropes of Scale. It appears they have 17 different sizes of rope. I doubt you would find more than six or so sizes that would fall within the range of your 1:85 model. Look at the models here, and the images of contemporary models, and try to get a look for your model that looks balanced and proportional.
  12. What size deadeye? Found these at ModelExpo https://www.modelexpo-online.com/products/corel-l093-wire-chainplate-for-5mm-deadeyes-26mm-long-pk-of-10-pcs?_pos=1&_psq=chainplate&_ss=e&_v=1.0
  13. AI Is so wonderful...
  14. One of the quickest ways I identify these scam sites ( too good to be true is one ), put something in your cart and try to check out with PayPal. It won't work the way PayPal should. Actually, it won't work at all.
  15. here is what I get when I Google AL.. https://artesanialatina.net/ Depending on what pay method you used, that site is probably harvesting personal information. If you used a credit card, I would lock it, and report the transaction. Also contact Artisania Latina . They have a presence here. @Artesania Latina
  16. Is that mill ( the Unimat ) available for sale anywhere? I couldn't seem to find it.
  17. Innocraftsman appears to be a storefront for the various Chinese hobby tools that can be found at any number of outlets.. Their pricing seems to be a bit aggressive compared to some other outlets like Amazon. For instance, this little press from Innocraftsman for $249 can be found on Amazon for about $80. This little mill on Amazon looks like it might be a good alternative to the one in your OP..
  18. It's the result that counts, and that looks as good as any rope I have seen!
  19. I use this little 2oz bottle and Q-Tips. I put it on the Q-Tip and not the work piece.. Any open container would evaporate quickly.
  20. Can you elaborate on this ? Are you referring to stropping blocks and etc..?
  21. 17 Appears to be an eyebolt for one end of a bobstay. 18 Appears to be a block through which the bobstay is reeved then tied to an eyebolt at 16. Doesn't look like actual practice. 204 Refers to a belay point that they have the forestay going to, and that would certainly be wrong. It wouldn't be set up with a block tackle like that. The forestay could be set up like this, with hearts. The bobstays might be set up like the one in the lower, right part of this image. There is another deadeye out of sight, and they would be set up similar to a shroud. To overcome the shortcomings lot of kit rigging plans, you need a good reference like The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860 .. One of the Petersson books, Rigging Period Ship Models and Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft would be a lot of help; the former in particular.. They don't include this particular type of rig, but the basic set-up of various lines would still apply.
  22. Where are you located? Send me PM if you want to keep it private.
  23. ModelExpo has a pretty good selection of basswood strips. I see my local Ace has them. Amazon has Midwest basswood also.
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