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Everything posted by Gregory
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For a second there Greg, I thought you looked at my jig and made a drawing of it..😁 I must have seen yours at some point and used the design. P.S. Here is the link I couldn't post earlier.
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Many use a jig of some sort. Often it is a stiff wire between the deadeyes. I can’t post a link right now, but if you look at #66 in my Resolution log, you will see the jig I used. If the construction isn’t apparent, I will try to clarify later.
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Here are a couple of build logs. They are pretty comprehensive showing how the model goes together. Barbara, I am curious about several topics you have started with questions regarding various ships and modeling. You have received several replies but you never reply back with regard to the help you receive. Have you been able to benefit from the help you have received?
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There was /is a banner at the Malco site saying only the ownership had changed. All the employees and infrastructure remain the same. I use their blades with my Proxxon FET and have never had a problem.
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Best White Wood Glue For Ship Building
Gregory replied to OldeManToad's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The Titebond should be fine.. -
Take a look at some of the build logs for 17th century ships.
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I have plans drawn by Chapelle as well as the MS Plans drawn by Campbell. I think the problem with Chapelle and Campbell is that they are only showing two cross trees where according to Lees there would have been three after 1706. I would expect Colonials would have followed British practice at this time, so Chapelle and Campbell may have got it wrong. How did the practicum draw the trestle trees and cross trees? If there are only two cross trees, I would model it after the plans as shown. Here is how Petersson shows the topmast cross trees, which is how I would model it if I wanted to follow practice; with a cross tree in the middle and not a chock. I wouldn't follow the practicum unless it calls for three cross trees.
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What is the diameter and arbor of the Preac? I see there is a site called “smaller than life” that sells preac blades. Sorry I can’t post links right now.
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America is one of my favorite subjects. I look forward to seeing your work. Those plans are a treasure. A great resource for a scratch build.
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I think they are ' interesting'. They add some character . I like the slight caricature nature of some of the faces. I am at in a bit of a quandary about adding figures to a build. To be realistic, the sheer numbers would be distracting from what I want to showcase. I ponder the idea of maybe a single figure along the rail to add a sense of perspective. Otherwise I like the idea of including them in build photos , but not so much in the finished model. If I may clutter up your log a bit.😁
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pin vise and drill bits
Gregory replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have a couple of these from Amazon The chuck goes from .5 to 3mm according to the specs, but I'm sure I've gone smaller than .5 , but I mostly use the 1/8 shank carbide bits. It's got a real nice feel to it, and there is nothing in the build quality that makes me think it will not outlast me. -
Are you going to do mostly right angle cuts? I put together very reliable miter that works with very thin saws and single edge razor blades. I you are interested I can put some pictures up. l also use my Proxxon FET for cutting thin stuff an don’t have trouble with tearing that can’t be remedied with light sanding if it needs it at all.
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I’m sure a lot of instructions call for that kind of construction, but it’s fairly easy to do something like glue a small diameter dowel to the inside corners and place holes where needed in the deck. In the end, it’s what works best for you. For free standing parts like fife rails and such it’s a matter of coming up with a pinning solution. I’d be happy to provide an example If you would like.
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how to value a pre 1950 model of the Santa Maria
Gregory replied to amuzed_traveler's topic in New member Introductions
What kind of estimate are you getting for the refurbishing? If you found a model like this in restored condition, in an antique store, I would be surprised if they would be asking more the $200. The value of something like this, is more as a family keepsake than a fine piece of art. -
I don’t like to paint, so I look for different woods for contrast. I don’t have tools for milling beyond what I can do with my Proxxon FET. I have a laser for detail work. I go to Ocooch Hardwoods for exotic sheets . I like Rockler and Woodcraft for veneer. I’ll post some samples later of different colors I have used.
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Fractal vise on kickstarter
Gregory replied to DavidG's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I just figured out this device is not available for purchase yet. You who are interested might offer your suggestions to make it better.
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