Gregory

Any indication if it will include rigging detail?

You made me dig out my digital copy of that Ships in Scale volume to confirm it's a great article.   I have my 2nd Mary kit on the shelf and look forward to getting around to it some day.
 
There is a Mary-like model of a ship called Max Emanuel built by  Theodor Klaas.
 
It has some amazing detail that I would strive to incorporate on my next Mary
 
Max Emanuel
 

One of the detail images.

I'm really liking the look of the muslin sails.  I will have to try that.

I'm really liking the look of the muslin sails.  I will have to try that.

Pressing on with video 10. The orlop deck pieces are installed. The sections/openings all align with each other rather well and with the hold below. Quick mast check shows good alignment for the mast holes and other mounting areas below.
 
I wasn't thrilled with the way the fore and aft sections come together. These little tabs were very fragile. I think I broke at least half a dozen of these during the dry fit. It also took quite a bit of tweaking to get the fore and aft sections to fit together.

I ended up gluing some strips to the bottom of the forward deck sections so that the aft sections had something they could be glued to. Otherwise, there was no way to keep them together.

Even with that, they just don't go together very well and there are gaps and they don't really align well. The result is not a good look but it is what it is.

Other than that, the deck look good.


Courtesy hold with LEDs lit pictures.


 
 

Slow going, but still progressing. I had to deal with jury duty this week, plus trying to deal with some work related bureaucratic junk. But, the worst thing was losing another ship modeling friend, just about three weeks ago. Just saw the guys two days before he died at a local ship model meeting. His name was Ken Lum, an NRG member. He was a great guy at the meetings. Hadn't built a ship model in, I don't know, 20 years or more. But, he was always very up to date on the ship modeling hobby news, and knew something about EVERYTHING, so he was always a big part of any historical or ship model discussion. I'll miss him very much for quite some time I think.
 
As for the yacht Mary, work continues. I finally finished making the sails, including the bonnet on the mainsail. Some blocks have been added, bowlines, etc. Sewing machine is now put away, and I'm ready to rig.
 

I've got some sheet blocks to add to the staysail and the mainsail, then I'll bend the mainsail. 
 
In the meantime, one thing confuses me a bit. I know the Mamoli/Dusek plans call for parrals to be added to the main gaff jaws, but I don't see any on the photos of the Utrecht replica that Baker posted (post #17), nor do I see any on Ab Hoving's English royal yacht model. Is this something the Dutch didn't bother with on such a small vessel? Like omitting ratlines as they were unnecessary?
 
And, before I add the sails, I'm now thinking again about reef points. The Utrecht replica has them on the mainsail. But, as Druxey pointed out, they don't seem to appear in paintings of the period. I'll give it some more thought, but still leaning towards leaving them off.
 

Thank you Glenn, I cannot say that I enjoyed planking around the gun ports, but it is very satisfying to be done with that task.      I cannot imagine doing three decks of gun ports.
 
Completed the port side above the Wales.
 

 
And a couple other views.  Faired the planking down to 320 grit and then a thin coat of poly.  Figure I need another session of sanding with finer grit on both sides before I consider this portion complete.
 

 

 

 
Started with dry fitting the drop planks last night.  Used a small amount of water and my hand iron to get the planks to relax into the bulkheads.  It looks like only some minor adjustment of the laser cut planks will be needed.  Just a little gap between the lower edge of the planks and the first bulkhead.
 

 
Looking to complete the first two strakes below the Wales this week and start on the Wales and black plank maybe this weekend.
 
Steve

Not much to actually report, except that I've been trying to get these sails done for a couple weeks, and since I switched my sail making technique, I managed to make good progress over two days.
 
I probably mentioned this before, but I'm using unbleached cotton muslin. This was hand washed and then treated with a fabric stabilizer called Terial Magic. This has to soak in for 15 minutes, wrung out, then the material is ironed. The resultant material acts like paper. The stabilizer can be left in or washed out later.
 

 
Topsail and head sails were initially sewn and cut to shape. 
 

I cut some strips of fabric and sprayed them with Fray Stop, which is like the fabric stabilizer, but it doesn't wash out. It smells a lot like lacquer(!). I'm doing this, because I think I'm going to wash the Terial Magic out of the sails later (maybe), and I'm a little concerned that later the edges of these strips might start to fray.

I'm gluing the strips using Aleene's Fabric Fusion, which is a clear, permanent fabric glue. I've never used it before. It's possible that my using the Fray Stop may keep the fabric glue from sticking as well. Not really sure about that. I didn't really consider that when I cut and sprayed those strips. We'll just have to see how it goes.

I glued the strips into place using Aleene's Fabric Fusion. I'm showing a rotary cutter in the photo below, but I actually ended up using a scalpel with a fresh blade for more of the cutting. The rotary cutter might have worked better if the blade was newer. It was fine really, but the fresh scalpel blade was better.

That curved edge of the topsail was the biggest challenge. I matched the cure as best I could in a larger piece of cloth, then glued the whole cloth to the sail. I then just cut the excess away.

All tablings glued into place. I considered just leaving the sails in this state, but I wanted to show stitching of the tablings. I also thought that the tablings might hold up better if I end up washing them after I sew them.

 
Finally, here are the first three sails. Just the mainsail to go. The tablings are all secured with one line of machine stitching. That part turned out okay, certainly a lot better than my earlier attempt. I still need to add the bolt ropes. I'm not too worried about that part. I'm just gluing them into place. But, I'll probably add the bolt ropes to these three sails before I make the last sail.
 
 

Good info from @wefalck. 
 
Laser is not your best option, if at all, for detailed carving.

I don't have a tonne of progress to show, but as it has been about a week since I last posted I figured I would give a short update.
 
I continue to work away at the bulkheads and am now nearing the end. The only bulkheads left to put in place are the final two at either end. I have left these till last as the stern ones are the most fragile and the bow ones need some pre-fairing before I glue them in place.

Still lots of structural work to go, but she is starting to take shape now.

I bought a Genmistu 3018 PROVer several years ago.  It can be configured to use a laser or a spindle motor; I bought a package that included both.   I had a project that could use the laser to burn graphics in wood (a fancy wood burner).  I upgraded my machine with an expansion kit to increase the work envelope of the machine. The Genmistu is a good learning machine and they also have good support.
 
I discovered the spindle configuration is helpful in model ship building.  The first thing I made was stairway sections to replace broken pieces.  I took measurements, drew it up in CAD software, converted the file using CAM software, and ran the G-code file using controller software to operate the machine; I was able to duplicate the original parts.  I made a jig by routing a shape for railings, I used the jig to bend brass wire and made railings that all turned out the same.  I scanned a plywood piece and created pieces to cover the plywood by cutting walnut veneer with the spindle. 
 
Learning a hobby CNC machine requires that you learn a variety of software.  I found the laser configurations with Lighburn software was easy to learn, Lightburn is probably the preferred laser/machine control software; it can be used to design and control your machine.  For the spindle configuration I used free software but you need to know how to troubleshoot different software working with each other (I experienced frustration until I figured it out).  Based on my experience with the Genmistu I bought a Onefinity CNC router for my garage, a bigger, more powerful machine.  I also got VCarve software to produce G-code files for my Onefinity. it is a complete product like Lightburn except it is for routers (I can use it for both of my machines).  VCarve can also produce carvings using clipart.
 
I wrote manuals to operate and service industrial CNC machines so I have the basic knowledge of how G-code works and how CNC machines work.  This is useful knowledge but it isn't necessary if you have good software like Lightroom or VCarve.   I bought my first hobby machine to perform a specific project but I knew there is potential for other uses.  I considered the cost to be tuition to learn CNC software and processes.  Manufactures often have forums that I've used to help solve problems.  I use my garage CNC router more often than my bandsaw now. 
 
 

Well, hard to believe it's been almost three years since I worked on Resolution.
I was in the home stretch with rigging when the cat decided all that 'string' looked like something that needed special attention only a cat can give.
The mast snapped right below the trestle trees, and fortunately nothing else actually came apart or broke.
 

I feel pretty sure I can get the mast back in position and repaired without having to actually  re-do any of the rigging that was already in place.  I had just started the ratlines so I hope to be able to continue with that in the near future.
 
 
 

I think a laser would be great for your miniature work.
Browse through my Rattlesnake and Resolution builds to see how I have put a laser to use.
To show you can make some fairly small precision parts, here is a link that shows how I made some fiddle blocks.
I would highly recommend LIghtBurn for driving the laser.
 
I have an older 20W Xtool  that serves me well but If I were buying today I would go with the xTool S1 20W.
 
Ventilation is a primary concern and with the Xtool all you need is a vent hose to get the smoke and fumes outside.
 
Let me know if you have other questions you think I might answer.

As in the case of purchasing any kind of machine tool, it is useful to make a list of fundamental specification and capabilities needed:
 
- Which are the maximum dimensions of parts I want to produce?
- What is the maximum thickness of materials I want to work with?
- What kind of materials do I want to work with?
- What sort of operations I want to do, i.e. cutting out 2d-objects or sculpting 3d-objects (2-axis router vs. 3-axis milling machine)
- What is the spatial resolution needed?
- Do my objects have have to have sharp corners or can I live with or hand-treat rounded corners?
 
Then also a list of possible constraints is helpful:
 
- Do I have the surface space to permanently accomodate the machine ? (moving it around may cause alignment issues)
- Do I have the possibility to vent out fumes?
- Do I have connections for cooling water? (needed for some types of lasers)
- When do I want to work with it re. nuisance due to noise produced by routers
- How can I manage dust?
 
'Sculpting' with a laser in principle is possible by modulating the power and/or the lengths of pulses and the number of repeated passes. However, it always will result in charred surfaces and removing the charred wood form small intricate parts can be difficult, particularly when one wants to have the 'real' wood surface in the end.
 
On the other hand, the laser works 'contact-less', which is particularly useful for very small and delicate parts.
 

Hope you still like the cat, and hopefully you can get it all back together without to much trouble.  I have dogs and they can do some damage as well if they get ruff housing around.  Luckily, nothing has broken yet.
 
Look forward to seeing it all repaired and in another post you told me you did some laser cutting for this model.  Makes me wonder if I should have a laser for my miniatures.  Still on the fence on that one.  Like to have one or a cnc router, but $$$ right now is tight so both will have to wait awhile.
 

Well, hard to believe it's been almost three years since I worked on Resolution.
I was in the home stretch with rigging when the cat decided all that 'string' looked like something that needed special attention only a cat can give.
The mast snapped right below the trestle trees, and fortunately nothing else actually came apart or broke.
 

I feel pretty sure I can get the mast back in position and repaired without having to actually  re-do any of the rigging that was already in place.  I had just started the ratlines so I hope to be able to continue with that in the near future.
 
 
 

Some progress on the rigging.
 

In this session I'm making some fiddle blocks. Here are the parts made with the laser from 1/32 cherry.
I borrowed the build method from Chuck..  I really like the blocks Chuck makes, but if I can make them myself, I can save a little expense, particularly when I mess up one or more trying to finish them.

Here are the pieces glued up.
 

 
The little tab is handy for holding it while finishing it up..  The cherry doesn't finish as fine as boxwood, but I like the color of the cherry and
it's really my go-to wood for this project.
 

 
Here is one of the backstays with the fiddle tackle.  Cheerful builders will find this familiar looking.
 

 
Close up of one of the fiddles..
 
Thanks for looking in..

I think a laser would be great for your miniature work.
Browse through my Rattlesnake and Resolution builds to see how I have put a laser to use.
To show you can make some fairly small precision parts, here is a link that shows how I made some fiddle blocks.
I would highly recommend LIghtBurn for driving the laser.
 
I have an older 20W Xtool  that serves me well but If I were buying today I would go with the xTool S1 20W.
 
Ventilation is a primary concern and with the Xtool all you need is a vent hose to get the smoke and fumes outside.
 
Let me know if you have other questions you think I might answer.

I think a laser would be great for your miniature work.
Browse through my Rattlesnake and Resolution builds to see how I have put a laser to use.
To show you can make some fairly small precision parts, here is a link that shows how I made some fiddle blocks.
I would highly recommend LIghtBurn for driving the laser.
 
I have an older 20W Xtool  that serves me well but If I were buying today I would go with the xTool S1 20W.
 
Ventilation is a primary concern and with the Xtool all you need is a vent hose to get the smoke and fumes outside.
 
Let me know if you have other questions you think I might answer.

I think a laser would be great for your miniature work.
Browse through my Rattlesnake and Resolution builds to see how I have put a laser to use.
To show you can make some fairly small precision parts, here is a link that shows how I made some fiddle blocks.
I would highly recommend LIghtBurn for driving the laser.
 
I have an older 20W Xtool  that serves me well but If I were buying today I would go with the xTool S1 20W.
 
Ventilation is a primary concern and with the Xtool all you need is a vent hose to get the smoke and fumes outside.
 
Let me know if you have other questions you think I might answer.

I think a laser would be great for your miniature work.
Browse through my Rattlesnake and Resolution builds to see how I have put a laser to use.
To show you can make some fairly small precision parts, here is a link that shows how I made some fiddle blocks.
I would highly recommend LIghtBurn for driving the laser.
 
I have an older 20W Xtool  that serves me well but If I were buying today I would go with the xTool S1 20W.
 
Ventilation is a primary concern and with the Xtool all you need is a vent hose to get the smoke and fumes outside.
 
Let me know if you have other questions you think I might answer.

How does it deal with two or more objects touching each other?  If you have to separate them, you might as well go ahead and count them.😁

Those guys also sell and promote companies from Asia and abroad who steal designs from legit mfgs…and they openly support them.  Its a known fact.  
 
Luckily I know of a few honest mfgs right here in the USA.  Prices are already cheaper and the parts are better and no tariffs or fees.  
 
Those same parts bought elsewhere probably would have cost you just $20 …. maybe next time.
 
These tariffs are a bigly bummer.  
 
 

Very nice work!

How does it deal with two or more objects touching each other?  If you have to separate them, you might as well go ahead and count them.😁