Gregory

Just a photo because I was dividing the second belt on my Spinx...maybe it helps with some visuals. I divided the hull first in the appropriate belts that you find in the helpful links posted earlier. On this photo i'm dividing the second belt at the bow. You do this with every belt...until it's closed

I'm sure it is implied somewhere.  You should have the information you need to proceed with your planking..
 
The image I posted couldn't be more clear about the space to be covered and how it should look.
 
Look forward to seeing your progress.

Your work looks very good, but who is George Stockwell?   I seem to recall seeing the mitered joints on a contemporary model or two, but for the most part they were the lap joints we see on a lot of models here and elsewhere.

I borrowed these from Chucks Cheerful.
Of course, the builders of the Virginia Sloops may have followed a different practice, of which I have no expertise.
 
 

Your work looks very good, but who is George Stockwell?   I seem to recall seeing the mitered joints on a contemporary model or two, but for the most part they were the lap joints we see on a lot of models here and elsewhere.

I borrowed these from Chucks Cheerful.
Of course, the builders of the Virginia Sloops may have followed a different practice, of which I have no expertise.
 
 

Your work looks very good, but who is George Stockwell?   I seem to recall seeing the mitered joints on a contemporary model or two, but for the most part they were the lap joints we see on a lot of models here and elsewhere.

I borrowed these from Chucks Cheerful.
Of course, the builders of the Virginia Sloops may have followed a different practice, of which I have no expertise.
 
 

Happy Memorial Day all.  Here in Delaware it is, once again, raining.  A good excuse to plunge into my next project - the main deck hatch coaming. 
 
I haven't built anything like this before.  My Robert Hunt practicum shows 2 ways to make it- the default is with butt joints and looks straightforward.  Those with a bit more confidence could do mitered joints.  Hmmm...
 
But then I happened on a picture in Grant Walker's Volume 3 and it all went to heck.

Mitered half-lapped joints?   sweet.  The George Stockwell coamings above are lower, whereas the one I'm attempting to make are tall and tapering but I thought I could figure it out. 
 
Right from the outset I was having trouble visualizing what the joint pieces would look like.  My cartoons mostly confused me even more and looking at them now I realize I initially added an extra butt joint.  Even with revisions I was still not clearly visualizing the joints and especially how to make them.

The coaming is supposed to stick up 1/4" above the deck, and my deck planking will be 3/64" thick, so my wood stock will be 1/4" + 3/64" = whatever that adds up to.  I wanted some of the butt joint to be visible above the decking so I decided to extend it 7/64" high and start the taper a 64th above.  This was a lot of thinking and measuring with calipers and math.
 
Below is my first test pieces, made from the kit's limewood.  These were not measured and only served to help me visualize the shape of the joints.  I glued various pieces of stock wood together; there wasn't an exact match in the kit.  I also have the hand powered Ultimation Sander (which works very well) and I used it to make the 45 degree miters on the short pieces (left) below.  It can't be used for the long pieces (right) below as the butt joint part of the coaming stick out.

The practicum and the pictures in Grant Walker's book both show the endgrain of the butt joint being oriented fore-aft so thats what I did as well.
 
Miters are challenging at any scale; I needed to cheat, so I made some jigs.  The sections in David Anscherl's and Greg Herbert's various book about making lites was very helpful.  I am still making test pieces here and I didn't take pictures of every step but I will do a better job with the actual holly stock.
 
Below I glued 2 pieces of rectangular wood to my board and put 2 pieces of thin strip below the test stock to raise it up so exactly 7/64" stuck up out of the jig.  Some walnut wedges kept it from shifting.  I had used my smallest square and a scalpel previously to incise the edges of the butt joint; then I used the edge of my chisel held flat on the jig to incise a fine line on both sides which defined the rest of the butt joint.  Then I gradually chiseled out the waste.  This made a very square and flat joint.

As before these test pieces are made up of several glued up smaller pieces.
 
Below you can see my miter jig.  I clamped the long piece of coaming to the jig and holding a flat chisel against the jig used it to cut the miters.  I didn't take pics of this process but I will next time.
 

and here's another pic of the joint

All good so far.  I glued it together with yellow glue mixed with a little graphite, same as I have previously done on my scarf joints. 

And finally I drew some lines with my compass marking out the taper and first chiseled then refined the coaming's taper with sanding sticks.  The camera kept insisting my fingers were more interesting than the wood joint I was holding, sorry about that.
 

 
And there is my ever first mitered butt joint.  Next up is preparing my holly stock and doing it for real.
 
Thanks for reading
 
Cisco
 

Considering earlier discussion it should easily fall within 1501-1750.

Considering earlier discussion it should easily fall within 1501-1750.

Not an expert by any means, but here would be my interpretation:
I would guess a quarter  may be referring to a thin single block. According to steel a quarter block (also called thick and thin) was a double block with one sheave thicker than the other. So maybe in this case it is just the thin part. The pins for the blocks were made of wood so an iron pinned one had an iron pin instead of a wooden one. Coaking was the process layering the inside of the sheave with a cylindrical piece of metal into which the pin would be placed. I would guess this was to increase the strength of the block or perhaps to make is spin easier. https://maritime.org/doc/steel/part5.php

.. Forbid it should be 8.6..😁
 
For modeling purposes, I think once the shape of the block is good,  while keeping the size of the rope in mind, I think the size of the block is more a matter of " what looks good, is good"..

.. Forbid it should be 8.6..😁
 
For modeling purposes, I think once the shape of the block is good,  while keeping the size of the rope in mind, I think the size of the block is more a matter of " what looks good, is good"..

I have sails at last!
 

 
A few have the tablings and linings but there still are a lot of details to add.
 
The model is 1:48 scale, where 1 foot scales to 1/4 inch. The sail cloths were two feet (48 inches) wide, and that comes out to 1/2 inch scale. I have a metal ruler that is 1/2 inch wide and that really helped me to draw the lines for the cloths and seams. It was also very useful for cutting the sails from the larger sheets of material.
 
I mentioned earlier that this sail material is pretty tough (when dry). I am able to erase any errors when drawing the pencil lines for the seams. However, although most of the pencil marks are removed it isn't easy to get the last bit, leaving a faint pencil line where it isn't wanted. I found a simple way to fix that - I just paint over the lines with the original buff colored paint I used to color the sail cloth.

I'm sure it is implied somewhere.  You should have the information you need to proceed with your planking..
 
The image I posted couldn't be more clear about the space to be covered and how it should look.
 
Look forward to seeing your progress.

Hopefully you will take the advice to look at the references given .
 

Here is another example from Chuck's Cheerful.  The green line shows where the first two planks next to the keel are.  The first plank next to the keel is the garboard, and you may want to look at  Thukydides reference for establishing the garboard plank.  I also discounted the next plank because it doesn't lend itself to measuring a width where it meets the stem.  You will have to try to achieve the look you see on those two planks and taper them accordingly.
The red line is the distance you will measure to determine the width of the planks at the bow.
If you measure the red line to be 55mm, then would divide 55 by 18 to get 3.05 mm for the width of your planks at the red line.
Since your number may be something that is really hard to measure for cutting, such as 3.05 mm, then you may want to use just 3mm ( just an example as your actual number will probably be different ), and have one or two planks a little bigger.
You could just fit them in at the end.
 
Unless you follow the planking practices you have been given, you will not have an easy time achieving something like the picture above.   
 
Look at the many build logs for Cheerful and Alert.   The planking details may not be well documented in all of them, but it will be in a few like the one Thukydides pointed you to.
 

I have just plunged down the rabbit hole again, trying to learn how sails were put together. After reading through eighteen books describing sail making, I have concluded that whatever one author says another will disagree with it!
 
All agree that since the middle ages sails have been constructed with parallel cloth strips (cloths) that are sewn together. How they were sewn together and how wide the overlap of the cloths was is not always agreed upon. But most authors agree that for the last several centuries in Europe and America in most cases the cloth width was 24 inches.
 
Everyone says the edges of sails were lined with a bolt rope for added strength, and amazingly every author says the bolt ropes were attached to the port side of fore-and-aft sails and the aft side of square sails. This was the only thing they all agreed on!
 
The outer edges of the sail cloths (head, foot, leech and luff) were folded over and seamed (hemmed) for added strength. This was called tabling. Most agree on this, but which side of the sail was the tabling folded to? Almost none of the books say which side! The few authors that dare to venture a guess seem to agree that the tabling was on the after side of square sails. Some say the tabling was on the port side of fore-and-aft sails, but one author says it was on the starboard side (mainly on modern British racing yachts).
 
Some parts of sails were strengthened with extra cloth pieces called linings (although a few authors also call tablings linings). Most agree that linings were on the face of square sails (the opposite side from the tablings). Some say linings were on the port side of fore-and-aft sails (along with the tablings and bolt rope).
 
The reef bands were sewn to the forward side of square sails and to the starboard side of fore-and-aft sails. But one author claims reef bands were sewn on both sides of the sail. Another says reef bands were sewn under the leech linings. But if the reef bands are on the starboard side of a sail that means the linings must also be on the starboard side, and not on the port!
 
You have to love it when one author says white is black, and another says black is white. And which end of the egg do you crack first anyway?
 
*****
 
And now there is Phil's way!
 
On square sails the tablings are on the aft side and the linings and reef bands are on the forward side. On larger ships bunt cloths and additional reinforcing bands are on the fore side. The top lining (to prevent chafing against the mast tops) is on the aft side along the foot of the sail.
 
For fore-and-aft sails the tablings and linings are on opposite sides like the square sails. Tablings are on the port side, Linings and reef bands are on the starboard.
 
Now I can get on with making the sails for the model!

Hopefully you will take the advice to look at the references given .
 

Here is another example from Chuck's Cheerful.  The green line shows where the first two planks next to the keel are.  The first plank next to the keel is the garboard, and you may want to look at  Thukydides reference for establishing the garboard plank.  I also discounted the next plank because it doesn't lend itself to measuring a width where it meets the stem.  You will have to try to achieve the look you see on those two planks and taper them accordingly.
The red line is the distance you will measure to determine the width of the planks at the bow.
If you measure the red line to be 55mm, then would divide 55 by 18 to get 3.05 mm for the width of your planks at the red line.
Since your number may be something that is really hard to measure for cutting, such as 3.05 mm, then you may want to use just 3mm ( just an example as your actual number will probably be different ), and have one or two planks a little bigger.
You could just fit them in at the end.
 
Unless you follow the planking practices you have been given, you will not have an easy time achieving something like the picture above.   
 
Look at the many build logs for Cheerful and Alert.   The planking details may not be well documented in all of them, but it will be in a few like the one Thukydides pointed you to.
 

Hopefully you will take the advice to look at the references given .
 

Here is another example from Chuck's Cheerful.  The green line shows where the first two planks next to the keel are.  The first plank next to the keel is the garboard, and you may want to look at  Thukydides reference for establishing the garboard plank.  I also discounted the next plank because it doesn't lend itself to measuring a width where it meets the stem.  You will have to try to achieve the look you see on those two planks and taper them accordingly.
The red line is the distance you will measure to determine the width of the planks at the bow.
If you measure the red line to be 55mm, then would divide 55 by 18 to get 3.05 mm for the width of your planks at the red line.
Since your number may be something that is really hard to measure for cutting, such as 3.05 mm, then you may want to use just 3mm ( just an example as your actual number will probably be different ), and have one or two planks a little bigger.
You could just fit them in at the end.
 
Unless you follow the planking practices you have been given, you will not have an easy time achieving something like the picture above.   
 
Look at the many build logs for Cheerful and Alert.   The planking details may not be well documented in all of them, but it will be in a few like the one Thukydides pointed you to.
 

Hopefully you will take the advice to look at the references given .
 

Here is another example from Chuck's Cheerful.  The green line shows where the first two planks next to the keel are.  The first plank next to the keel is the garboard, and you may want to look at  Thukydides reference for establishing the garboard plank.  I also discounted the next plank because it doesn't lend itself to measuring a width where it meets the stem.  You will have to try to achieve the look you see on those two planks and taper them accordingly.
The red line is the distance you will measure to determine the width of the planks at the bow.
If you measure the red line to be 55mm, then would divide 55 by 18 to get 3.05 mm for the width of your planks at the red line.
Since your number may be something that is really hard to measure for cutting, such as 3.05 mm, then you may want to use just 3mm ( just an example as your actual number will probably be different ), and have one or two planks a little bigger.
You could just fit them in at the end.
 
Unless you follow the planking practices you have been given, you will not have an easy time achieving something like the picture above.   
 
Look at the many build logs for Cheerful and Alert.   The planking details may not be well documented in all of them, but it will be in a few like the one Thukydides pointed you to.
 

Only the swivel guns to go to finish Chapter 11. A quick update on what was the long process of adding the chain plates to fix the deadeyes to the channels. Basically a lot of holes to drill in a straight, level, and angled lines.

Another exercise in patience, planning. placing, and adjusting each of the three mast sections of channels and deadeyes

I am a big fan of the acrylic strops and chainplates - so much easier and such a much better look than fighting through their metal equivalents. I’m not going back.

I also had a new opportunity to make many eyelets along the hull following the plans. At this point the twist around the drill bit in the vice and the cut, snip, fit is mindless, easy work. Maybe someday I’ll count how many I’ve made for Winchelsea - or maybe not.

The model is transformed with these additions - looking completely like a ship at this point (don’t look at the stem, that’s Chapter 12). It’s really quite something. I'm going to take some better photos after I finish Chpt 11. I still haven't glued in the remaining guns, but that's coming up soon.
 
Thanks for stopping by - some swivel guns are up next.

As @druxey said read the article. Between that and the videos from Chuck previously linked in the thread they should answer all of your questions.
 
If you need some further discussion of how to fit the garboard plank (the bottom most plank) I discuss my thought process in my alert log from the perspective of a first time builder (log# 12). I also in previous logs show how I line off the alert hull which is a very similar shape to sherbourne.

Please read the planking tutorial:
 
chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf
 
It will answer all your questions!

Use a piece of string, then measure the string with a ruler.
Divide the length of the string by the number of planks used to cover a midship bulkhead.
 
Here is a post I made about tapering planks from mid ship to bow.  Your measurements should be different than my example.
 
 

Use a piece of string, then measure the string with a ruler.
Divide the length of the string by the number of planks used to cover a midship bulkhead.
 
Here is a post I made about tapering planks from mid ship to bow.  Your measurements should be different than my example.
 
 

Go to Windows search and type " snipping tool "..
 
You can copy any part of the screen you are looking at.  It goes to the clip-board, so you can paste it directly into the discussion.
You can edit in "Paint", or do whatever you like.
Even though it's telling you to press all those keys, all you really need to do is press Ctr+N..
 
 

You don’t have the “Snipping Tool”?