Gregory

Read your post about following Cookster, and his comment about is log being broken, I just want to let you know that I have all of his images that he posted. When I follow a build log dealing with the Constitution, I don't just read it, I copy the log and store it on my computer. BTW, I did the same thing when I was building my Rattlesnake. I don't trust the internet to keep websites forever or maintain original addresses. I've seen websites crash and lose everything (e.g., ModelShipWorld and ModelShipBuilder). So even though Cookster himself seems to have vanished in a puff of smoke and his log is starting to slowly disintegrate (images have disappeared), I have a copy of his log and all of the associated images. Should you need images from his log, just let me know.
 
Jon

New Sphinx kit has been delayed again - now $45.67 is customs duty is due "at delivery". I tried paying UPS on-line but that did not work for some reason so they will attempt delivery again on Monday - I will be sure to stay home Monday!
 
Anyway I have been working Saucy Jack and some of the other pieces of the Sphinx.
 
Here are the upper and lower capstans and the rudder (as far as I can go I think without the hull) joining the other pieces in the "to be installed someday" box.

One of the key things that 3D printing and CAD bring to the table is the ability to generate what is effectively a 'kit' from a set of plans for a ship that no company will ever produce a model of for you to build.
 
Usually we call that scratch-building.  
 
The thing about doing it with 3D CAD though is that you can generate a model...and another model, and another...just by clicking print again.
 
So, you can build yourself a fleet - or you can offer the model for others to build so they can have a model of your favorite ship as well.
 
I have a plan in mind to help the local museum - I am working to do a 3D design of a ship they have in their collection, and I'm hoping to get the design workable for print in a couple of variations.
 
First as a highly detailed model that is a great replica of the ship that I can produce in a suitable scale for floating in a pond myself as RC.
 
Second, as a lower detail model, smaller in size, that can be fairly easily assembled by students doing a summer camp or March break program at the museum.  My hope is to have that 'March break camp' something that the model club can contribute to, and do a presentation with the campers about 3D design, and then have each of them design an 'accessory' for their ship - something like a bollard, an anchor, a funnel, or whatever, using TinkerCAD, and we then print that item for them by the end of the week for them to assemble it onto their individual model boat.
 
That's my concept. 
 
I'll see how that works out. 

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.
 
 

It’s always good to have options.

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.
 
 

It’s always good to have options.

Channels and Gangways
 
An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.


The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 
 
I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).
 
Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

It’s always good to have options.

It might be useful to set some time aside and read through this topic. This is aimed directly at the sort of questions you ask. 
 
 

I'm glad I'm not become a pest.   At this scale serving will not serve you well. HeeHee.  You will be attempting to cram as much detail into this model...do not try to be the purist....A little can go a long way...and more can actually destroy...because at this scale it all tends to be waaay out of scale.  And if you managed to keep it in scale the detail is too small to be really appreciated.
 
Rob

I feel like I just woke up in the 1950s
 
Prerequisite skills and a lot money for specialist tools would also be useful, including the space to house them.
 
Sorry, I seriously would not offer this advice to a modeller wishing to embark on building ship models, unless they were already au fait in other modelling areas and had an equipped workshop and drawing reading skills that translate from a book to an actual plan you can build from.

For a first ship model I would have to recommend the Model Shipways "Shipwright Series" of three models.  This series was designed by renowned ship modeler David Antscherl.  The modeling series begins with a dory followed by a pram which is a little more challenging and ending with a shipjack.  Model Expo has these kits on sale now.  They are also offering the "Shipwright Series" as a combo which includes a basic set of tools, glue and paint.  Once you successfully complete this series, you'll be ready to take on something more challenging.
There are a number of reputable wooden ship manufacturers such as Syren, Vanguard, Bluejacket and Model Shipways.  Be careful of some disreputable manufacturers who use other manufacturer's designs without permission to make their own kits.  Checkout the list of banned manufacturers elsewhere on MSW.
 

 Welcome to Model Ship World and the wonderful hobby of ship modeling.
 
 

New Sphinx kit has been delayed - now due Friday. Will concentrate on Saucy Jack and trying to bring some order out of the disorder before starting the new hull.

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.
 
 

Hello,
I know, it's the Sliding Foot Assembly. But I don't think that that was also used in 1745. Goodwin described it too. If you find it at a model from this period, send me a picture.

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.
 
 

Got to 100% say that if MSW is ever described as 'elitist', then this is the sort of comment that makes that happen. 
 
Should a reviewer spend their time on the minutiae of details while they write? Should we be naval experts (or experts on that specific subject) so we can fully verify ship details? Should be have an arsenal of books with us to guide our fingers on the keyboard?
 
If you ever want to get a kit and then try doing just that, then please feel free. You can then see how whatever you do is sometimes a thankless task.

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.
 
 

ok, but to make the point i will still not be good enough to fulfil the point made and about kit reviews and historical accuracy as mentioned by @Roger Pellett or maybe it comes with a free brain implant

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.
 
 

i am not a NRG member, im not good enough to be a member, however i was not aware i had to research the kits that i review, its a way of informing others that new kits are on the market, that might be of interest, perhaps we need another thread, kits reviewed by non NRG members - rant over, and i wont bother again

The rudder ready for the paint booth.
 
I will take a chance that I can use this rudder to set the waterline on the new hull. Otherwise I would have to leave the rudder "as is" and wait until I have the hull waterline established which is probably several months in the future. And I can always build another rudder although I would not be looking forward to cutting the heads of another six dozen brass pins.
 
I believe the new Sphinx kit will be here Thursday. I am still trying to figure out the best way to proceed without becoming hopelessly confused about which part is where. That is a big enough problem with just one box (and a large box it is) to content with.

Is there any documentation of what references riggers referred to while working.
 
I suspect they pretty much knew what needed to be done, and did it.
 
I don’t visualize anyone carrying a measuring tape around with them.

Pricing at that ModelNet site looks very competitive….