
My Fathers Son
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There was a minor tragedy over the weekend. After I submitted the last update, I left CS on my table while I went out shopping and my eldest decided to vacuum downstairs. He dropped the handle of the vacuum and it hit CS midships but fortunately there was only one casualty. So now remaking a windlass. One side nearly finished, needs fine tuning and painting then the other side to cut out. Bit out of practice but getting there. Simon
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I have been doing more studying than doing lately as I have been trying to get my head around the location of the brace end locations without much success. However, I think I have managed to work it out and while I have a few adjustments to make to correct initial errors, I have recommenced work on the Mizzen mast. Still have the lower top lift blocks to install on the mast and all the brace blocks. Then work out where the bunt, sheet and clew line blocks need to go via the mast down to the various pin rails. Oh, and I am running out of blocks again, do'h. Simon
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Not a problem. I bought this set on Amazon. You will see it listed under lots of different manufacturers names but it's the same image every time. The drill bits are not hardened nor have they been ground to a point. So the wander when starting and have a tendency to bend, especially the smaller ones. However, the pun vice has a fairly decent size chuck. The end piece could do with having a bearing but considering how much I paid for this, I can't really complain. This shows the vice with one of the new bits installed. It is close to the limit but it does fit. I have used them a few times and finding that they do bully their way through a bit rather than drill a clean hole. Simon
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I am please to report that they do fit in my pin vise which is a bonus. So I now have a micro drill and a pin vise that I can use whichever is best for the circumstances. Made just a little progress tonight sorting out the mount for the Mizzen lower top yard, no picture till I install the preventer and correct a couple of blocks. Simon
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I have already been installing preventers but had missed the iron support on the lower top yard on Cutty on the other thread. Simon
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I get what you say about tight spaces and I haven't tried my pin vice, you may well be right but I have been struggling with blunt drills that are so week the bent if you sneeze near them. I tested a few of these out using fingers along e and they bite where you place them and actually drill. I will have to struggle on in those tight spaces but I now have an extra set of tools in the box. I followed your link but couldn't find a UK equivalent. Bah humbug. Simon.
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I was about to ask a question on this subject but you have most ably demonstrated the answer for me. An excellent example for me to try to follow master. Your most humble apprentice. Simon
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Thanks for all the well wishes guys, I am feeling better and have been getting out for walks each day and definitely have more stamina now. Hospital is quite pleased with my progress and apparently modelling is good physiotherapy for my bruised wrist and hand, who knew! I have looked at the revell hull and deck plans and they are just wrong. Even when you buy the wood deck for the plastic hull the mizzen mast is in the wrong place. The Mantua plans are 1:124 I think as that appears to be the only scale the do this in. They are an option of course and can always scale these up on the copier at work once I have the correct dimensions. There are a couple of books I have under consideration that have plans included for Thermopylae but as they are second hand I am waiting on the seller to advise if the plans are still with the book. In the mean time, I have been updating the starboard mizzen pin rail and back stays.
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The more I look at Harold Underhills Plate No 34 , the more I see that this is a generic guide for the Sail rigging for a square rigger and what I need at the moment is specific guidance on lifts and braces on Cutty Sark, so I am going to have to go back to staring atCambells drawings again. The problem I have with those is the yards are displayed at an impossible angle but the last few days I have had planty of time to stare at these plans and I think some of it is getting through. The reaso I have not been working on her is that I have been unwell of late and had Angioplasty last Friday, I now have a stent in one artery. I am feeling much better but they go in through your right hand and thr bruising in my wrist means I haven't been able to do any fine detail work since last Thursday.. One thing this has done is that I sat and watched a series on TV on 6 Classic British ships and they included the history of Mary Rose, Great Britain and Cutty Sark. When they were describing the race between CS and Thermopylae, my Wife suggested that Thermopylae should be my next subject, something I had been thinking of for sometime but not knowing how to suggest it. Woo hoo. Had a search around but struggled to find any kit or plans for Thermopylae in 1:96 other than the Scientific kit and none of those available so a bit to do to get ready for that project. Simon
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Cutty Sark and Thermopylae were both fine examples and were heading for the same fate, Cutty Sark was lucky and rescued by an old captain, Thermopylae was not so lucky, used as Torpedo practice by the Portugues navy. City of Adelaide lay rotting on the Clyde for many years while people argued over who owned her, who was going to pay the mooring fees and eventually towed her upstream and was abandoned. It was not until a consortium from the City of Adelaide raised enough funds to transport whats left of her down under to make a start on her restoration that things started to improve for her. My American cousins do not have a monoploly on not respecting their heritage. Simon
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Clipperfan, we should keep the scottish connection quiet, it will be the Elgin Marbles all over again if Scotland gets independance. Its not surprising though as Scotland had some of the best deepwater slipways. Simon
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I can second this, Cutty Sark is serious impressive just to walk around and over, just imagine what it would be like if Glory had survived. Being in the South of England, I am so lucky that I have Greenwich, Chatham and Portsmouth to visit historic ships. Simon
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Well, December was a quiet month for boat building in the end, way to much to do in the house getting ready for Christmas. Today was the first day that I could spend any time on her so pulled up Keith's images as a guide and the new vlocks I ordered in November. The 2mm ones are miniscule and too small but the 3mm look ideal, especially on the sky sail and royals. These are the main sky a royal yards The ropes are 9.5mm below the yard which scales at 3ft so the yard would be at waist height for the sailor working there. It feels good to be back making progress again even if it does mean that I have to redo much of the yards to come closer to this, although I won't be changing any of the installed jackstays. Simon
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I agree with @FriedClams , it's not just one thing, it's the whole picture and the attention to detail that is what draws one in. If I can get my yards within a fraction of your detail, I will be happy. for someone like myself, having your examples, no matter what the photographic skills, gives me something to aspire to and improves the quality of my work. And for that I thank you, as I do to all my mentors in this forum. Simon
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You'll find me in the Royal suite in Caterham-on-the-hill. Pop in for a mince pie for Christmas.
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I have finally got around to ordering some belaying pins. In the mean time I have been taking a good look at my yards. I am happy with how the lower yards are coming along but when I look at Keiths examples, the blocks I have a just too big. So I have ordered a few 2mm and 3mm blocks to see how they will look on the Royals and Top Gallants. When I set out on this journey, working with such small sizes seemed impossible but not so much any more. The 5mm ones I have on the Mizzen Royal look out of proportion. These should arrive about Wednesday so I will up date then.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
My Fathers Son replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Do you really need to start again? You have the base there, its just missing the cut out for the Topgallant Mast.- 4,152 replies
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
My Fathers Son replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
NenadM, Just one small suggestion, you need to make a hole to insert the TopGallant Mast into the top. The space between the holes is for the cables for the shrouds to pass between the masts and down through the top in the slots you have cut. Simon- 4,152 replies
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
My Fathers Son replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Just a quick point on this bit NenadM, dont knock your knowledge on this subject. I come from an Island nation famous for its naval history but there are very few people in this country, including myself, who would not have the faintest idea what a Trestletree or Crosstree is, let alone a bunt line or deadeye without having to research the subject first. This is a language all of its own that was known to a select few and even that fell out of use over a century ago for the most part, so you are not alone in needing a very specific type of dictionary and thesaurus to get to grips with the task ahead. Simon- 4,152 replies
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
My Fathers Son replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I agree exactly about the scale problem, my own Cutty is approx 1:100 and had to surrender to the fact that I wanted to display something that represents what she looks like, but the rigging scale would not be absolutely correct. So my deadeyes are all 5mm. I could have gone for 3mm for the upper shrouds, and in hindsight, probably should have, but it's been a steep learning curve for me also. I used 1mm thread for cable, 0.7mm for halyards and 0.35mm for ratlines. I will use the same sort of scale to differentiate between the rest of the stays, halyards, and finer ropes like buntlines. At the end of the day, it's your project and the level of detail you go to is always personal choice, I have had to make plenty of such decisions myself as I wanted to retain as much of dad's original material model as I dared. Keep up the good work.- 4,152 replies
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
My Fathers Son replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
NenadM I believe these are known as Crosstrees. They are not a single piece but a construct of a number of pieces. The piece below is normally on the side of the mast and are known as Cheeks, their purpose is to provide a support for the Trestletrees that run fore and aft either side of the mast. Cross trees would be set into these providing a base onto which a platform was built leaving a gap either side of the mast known as a lubbers hole. Bolsters were mounted on top either side to support the shrouds that would pass around the mast and down through the lubbers hole. The holes you have made are for the upper shrouds either side and the running gear for the bunt lines on the front. These are typical constructs that can be found described here on Model Ship World. Hope this helps Simon- 4,152 replies
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Hi, I used something very similar on my Cutty Shrouds. The two strips are CA'ed to the jaws of the clamp on the left and then just clamp the other end when its positioned correctly. I found that anything heavier than this dragged on the shrouds and upset the balance and tension of the shroud. I too would credit the idea to this platform but not to any specific post. Very nice shrouds, your Cutty is looking very good. Simon
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