Trond

Took some work, but not finished. And I think it is a huge improvment with my new carving compared to the one with the kit.

Any suggestion to colors?

And yes I'm going to paint the ship bow, just need to get the time to go and visit the same shop again (not in my city)

The bell is in place.

Whentthrough what size and how many deadeys I needed, more than I had. The bough a supplement package to the original kit with fittings, canons +++, but that was missing a lot and not very up to scale. So need to buy all blocks (boght some earlier) and other supplemtns for rigging.

Also startet with the figure. So this is take 1 and I'll see how many tries  before I get it right. 1st time carving.

Making these holes for the disc wheels was challenging. The milling machine did not work, so I had to trill by free hand.

Not the best, but ok enough.

I see there is many interpritation on how the bow is suppose to be, both in shapoe and color.

So here is mine.

I need to get some more stain, same as the rest of the ship.

Finaly got the side "support" (don't know the name) in place. Needed to do some soldering which I haven't done before, but it when ok. 

Practice make perfect .

The "break" is over and it's back to building and hopefully my personnal distraction is over for some time.

Well, trying to finish details on ship outer part.

I see there is so many ways of doing these decoration on bow of ship. So I've taken some personnal liberties.

1 hour ago, LyleK1 said:

If you don't know the formula for the color, I'd just leave it. It looks fine and if you repaint it and the color doesn't match... well, you won't be happy with it!

Got a point there. I'll put it on my learning account of what to do and don't

Finished adding the rudder. Learned that neext time it is beeing attached early and before adding deck fittings.

Looking at the picture now I might paint top part rudder brown. The only problem is getting the same color. Any thoughts guys?

On 8/26/2022 at 4:57 AM, LyleK1 said:

You are gonna love it! I assume you mean the mini mill?

I use mine for a lot of things and I haven't even begun to use it for its full value!

I screwed up with my order and bought something that I really didn't need. Thank to you Lyle I did another going through my thought and what I had and what I needed. I got stop my order right before it left the shop. Know I'm going through what I really need.

So, I have a lath with a mill.

What I didn't know or though about was by getting a set of collets other than Proxxon, since what they have are to big.

By that I mean my very small drills 0.1-1.0mm which have a base stem of 3mm, which is to small for what Proxxon supplies or what I have. I also saw that it is possible to get a gear tooth chuck (10mm) with adapter that I can fit into my mill.

So I've asked for price and delivery of small collets and a gear chuck. It saves me a lot of money and is more accurate than what I've used so far.

20 hours ago, LyleK1 said:

Lots of pictures going forward on the masting and rigging. I've looked at numerous sources for the little details that are just not well pictured or explained.

So, going forward, I will attempt to make it bit easier on the next builder!

I went back and reattached the anchor rodes in the mid-bilge area:

Figured it would be easier to do now when the masts are not on the boat!

 

The rigging attached to the bowsprit was very hard to follow but I am confident I got most of (if not all) it right. As mentioned nothing gets done until I've researched it first unless it's REAL obvious!

The next series of pictures is that rigging being incrementally installed:

The Traveler was an item that took me a ton of time to figure out! Again, based on several sources, here is my rendition:

A tad out of round! But trust me, that was my best one! That was really tough to make and harder to find a decent picture of one!

And finally, the completed bowsprit from several angles and close-ups:

On to the spritsail yard.

 

Nice work Lyle and great pictures. Just had a more detail look  in the book and I agree with you that drawingsit are complicated. So thanks for sharing good pictures. A very good reference when I get to that stage (some time in the future)

On 8/24/2022 at 7:06 AM, Trond said:

Thanks, I will have a look

Found a Proxxon drill on sale and bought that, online. So nowjust wait.

31 minutes ago, LyleK1 said:

Proxxan makes a great mini mill that would've done that job very easily!

Good machine and so many things it can help with.

Thanks, I will have a look

Nice work LyleK1.

In the Armed transport Bount book there is detailed rigging and the figure is descibed as a women in riding clothes.

I'm following the book as good as I can, but must admit I'm not sure how accuret the book is since from my understanding there is not to much detail from the real ship building.

Next is the rudder. I accually could use the on in the kit with some modifications. Added on some wood and made som notches for the hinges. 

I cheated and bought the hinges.

 Had to paint it several times to get an ok finish.

At the same time I'm working on the Timberhead. The challange has been making the hole at the tip. My drill jig is not stable enough.

The with of the holes are 1.2mm. So I need to figure how to make them even and parallel.

I definitely should by my self a good columnar drill. Need to look around.

Anybody have any referance on good ones?

Found a piece (tail rudder) from the kit i could use, but need modifying( alot).

Here I've made groves for the hinges, that I've blacked. Also added piece of wood on the bottom and back.

The top of the tail rudder is way to thin.

Had to glue on some wood and than afterward make it suitable.

All the top fitting is scratch build and will be. The only thing I can use from the kit now on is 3 types of rope and maybe the mast and spare.

So It is sometime frustrating, but at the same time satisfying. I learn alot and it's fun to see the ship beeing built kind out by my self, using HMS Bounty book.

Another scratch build. Had to make it twice to get it ok. Going to make more detail drawing next time and also use harder wood. The wood I'm using is to soft (it is not balsa).

Finaly got the binnacle in place with securing rope.

Thanks AJohnson.

I think I will raid my wife hobby room and see I can find som black thread to use for securing rope since I don't have a rope making machine?

Is there anybody that has bought a rope machine and have experience with it?

No apologize needed Gregory.  I'm new to building wooden ship in scale and my learing curve is preatty step, so all commetens are welcomed to help me learn more about ship building and their history.

Another dumb question is the binnacle used for storing maps and navigation tools?

4 hours ago, Gregory said:

FWIW, The stack on that binnacle does not seem to be documented anywhere, nor does it appear on any contemporary models that I am aware of.

What we have seen are vent holes in the side of the cabinet..

 

A bit of discussion here.

 

 

I is showed on several drawing in the The Armed TRansport Bount by John McKay. I see he is an architectural draughtsman and he has several referances.

I must admit I'm not deep into the sourcees on ship, yet ( but may come over time)  So I trust this guy.

My kit is far off the real Bount, so I guess by following John McKyay as far as possible would be good. Can't follow everything since my kit Bounty is not in correct scale.

Here is a try-out on placing out steering wheel, shelf and rope securing station (don't know what is called, need to look it up).

I do have a challange and that is securing the shelf before placeing the rope securing station , in accordence to book.

Does anybody know anything about the securing rope?

The only "rope" i have is a whit "rope" that following the kit or black sewing machine thread.

I need to get myself  a rope machine.

3 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Trond,

 

Kudos for making the wheel from wood!!! It really looks great.

 

Is there a reason you used 12 spokes instead of the 10 (or 8 on smaller ships) normally found on RN ships.    Lavery, Arming and Fitting pages 22 and 23 goes into detail on wheel construction.

 

Allan

I'm useing Armed Transport Bounty as referanse since the kit drawing is very bad. In the book the drawings show 12 spokes. It was a very challenging job, but satisfied when I completed it.

Sometime I feel I'm doing more scratch building than kit building and I couldn't have done it without the book.

I had a lot of problems making the helm and had to get different woods, something that is hard.

Did a lot of trial and error.

A lot of  frustration when almost everthing is ready then, the last part of making breaks all.

Well, after may tries I got it right, and that makes all the failure forgettable.

I used wooden toothpick as base for making the helm pins.

Made a jig for installing the pins.

Picture showing trying out the jiig and see if I drilled the holes correct, inner stem and outer ring, ok.

So the final product before paint.

And compare to the kit helm....

Finally fixed my problem in my workshop. Everytime I used the lathe and disk sander I had wood dust all over make a big mess. Had to install a sucction system under the benches and four connection points to hook up hoses. Also made a room under the bench for my vacumer. It gets hot, som I going to use my old vacumer and see how it works.

Yellow circle show connection points and hoses. Red circle show where I "hidden" the cavumer.

Also made a extra shelf under the bench, ready for my new mini table saw and thickness sander from Byrnes.