Dan Vadas
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from yvesvidal in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Next job was the two boilers. It only took me a day and a half to make them both, and the finished result was really good - some of the best pieces I've ever made .
Once again I added extra card strips to prevent any crushing - it's a lot easier to crush a beer can barehanded than to do the same to these :
Once the frames were finished I rolled and glued the skins. These were then slipped over the frames from one end and glued to them :
The front of the boiler has a domed end. I sanded the shape into some extra card pieces before skinning it :
I just had to take a couple of pics of my overall progress. The boilers and firebox are only sitting in place, it's a lot easier to add all the extras to them in smaller units :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Blue Pilot in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Next job was the two boilers. It only took me a day and a half to make them both, and the finished result was really good - some of the best pieces I've ever made .
Once again I added extra card strips to prevent any crushing - it's a lot easier to crush a beer can barehanded than to do the same to these :
Once the frames were finished I rolled and glued the skins. These were then slipped over the frames from one end and glued to them :
The front of the boiler has a domed end. I sanded the shape into some extra card pieces before skinning it :
I just had to take a couple of pics of my overall progress. The boilers and firebox are only sitting in place, it's a lot easier to add all the extras to them in smaller units :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Moab in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Next job was the two boilers. It only took me a day and a half to make them both, and the finished result was really good - some of the best pieces I've ever made .
Once again I added extra card strips to prevent any crushing - it's a lot easier to crush a beer can barehanded than to do the same to these :
Once the frames were finished I rolled and glued the skins. These were then slipped over the frames from one end and glued to them :
The front of the boiler has a domed end. I sanded the shape into some extra card pieces before skinning it :
I just had to take a couple of pics of my overall progress. The boilers and firebox are only sitting in place, it's a lot easier to add all the extras to them in smaller units :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from hexnut in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Hopefully I can remember how to take one on my old camera - it's been about 10 years since I last did .
The firebox. There were laser-cut support frames for this and the boilers. I added some extra 10mm wide strips that just touch inside the sides to prevent any crushing, and also to stabilise the whole unit :
The cabin end has a rolled edge. I filled in the rounded part to give me something to work to :
Filling in that edge really helped a lot to make a nice even roll without any "wobbles". The lighting makes it look a bit uneven in the pics - in reality it's turned out close to perfect . I glued each tab one at a time to give me time to push it into place properly :
The slots between four of the tabs wasn't drawn correctly, and I finished up with gaps in them when I glued it up. I filled the gaps with some scrap paper. They are nearly impossible to pick with the naked eye :
The skin was a beautiful fit, no adjustment necessary :
The ash box was a rather fiddly thing to glue up, but I'm more than happy with the result :
I glued some tapered card around the inside of the edges to stop any bowing while gluing the ash box to the fire box :
The result was pretty good :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Papa in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Next job was the two boilers. It only took me a day and a half to make them both, and the finished result was really good - some of the best pieces I've ever made .
Once again I added extra card strips to prevent any crushing - it's a lot easier to crush a beer can barehanded than to do the same to these :
Once the frames were finished I rolled and glued the skins. These were then slipped over the frames from one end and glued to them :
The front of the boiler has a domed end. I sanded the shape into some extra card pieces before skinning it :
I just had to take a couple of pics of my overall progress. The boilers and firebox are only sitting in place, it's a lot easier to add all the extras to them in smaller units :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from yvesvidal in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Hopefully I can remember how to take one on my old camera - it's been about 10 years since I last did .
The firebox. There were laser-cut support frames for this and the boilers. I added some extra 10mm wide strips that just touch inside the sides to prevent any crushing, and also to stabilise the whole unit :
The cabin end has a rolled edge. I filled in the rounded part to give me something to work to :
Filling in that edge really helped a lot to make a nice even roll without any "wobbles". The lighting makes it look a bit uneven in the pics - in reality it's turned out close to perfect . I glued each tab one at a time to give me time to push it into place properly :
The slots between four of the tabs wasn't drawn correctly, and I finished up with gaps in them when I glued it up. I filled the gaps with some scrap paper. They are nearly impossible to pick with the naked eye :
The skin was a beautiful fit, no adjustment necessary :
The ash box was a rather fiddly thing to glue up, but I'm more than happy with the result :
I glued some tapered card around the inside of the edges to stop any bowing while gluing the ash box to the fire box :
The result was pretty good :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Captain Slog in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Next job was the two boilers. It only took me a day and a half to make them both, and the finished result was really good - some of the best pieces I've ever made .
Once again I added extra card strips to prevent any crushing - it's a lot easier to crush a beer can barehanded than to do the same to these :
Once the frames were finished I rolled and glued the skins. These were then slipped over the frames from one end and glued to them :
The front of the boiler has a domed end. I sanded the shape into some extra card pieces before skinning it :
I just had to take a couple of pics of my overall progress. The boilers and firebox are only sitting in place, it's a lot easier to add all the extras to them in smaller units :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Moab in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Hopefully I can remember how to take one on my old camera - it's been about 10 years since I last did .
The firebox. There were laser-cut support frames for this and the boilers. I added some extra 10mm wide strips that just touch inside the sides to prevent any crushing, and also to stabilise the whole unit :
The cabin end has a rolled edge. I filled in the rounded part to give me something to work to :
Filling in that edge really helped a lot to make a nice even roll without any "wobbles". The lighting makes it look a bit uneven in the pics - in reality it's turned out close to perfect . I glued each tab one at a time to give me time to push it into place properly :
The slots between four of the tabs wasn't drawn correctly, and I finished up with gaps in them when I glued it up. I filled the gaps with some scrap paper. They are nearly impossible to pick with the naked eye :
The skin was a beautiful fit, no adjustment necessary :
The ash box was a rather fiddly thing to glue up, but I'm more than happy with the result :
I glued some tapered card around the inside of the edges to stop any bowing while gluing the ash box to the fire box :
The result was pretty good :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from coxswain in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Next job was the two boilers. It only took me a day and a half to make them both, and the finished result was really good - some of the best pieces I've ever made .
Once again I added extra card strips to prevent any crushing - it's a lot easier to crush a beer can barehanded than to do the same to these :
Once the frames were finished I rolled and glued the skins. These were then slipped over the frames from one end and glued to them :
The front of the boiler has a domed end. I sanded the shape into some extra card pieces before skinning it :
I just had to take a couple of pics of my overall progress. The boilers and firebox are only sitting in place, it's a lot easier to add all the extras to them in smaller units :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Captain Slog in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Hopefully I can remember how to take one on my old camera - it's been about 10 years since I last did .
The firebox. There were laser-cut support frames for this and the boilers. I added some extra 10mm wide strips that just touch inside the sides to prevent any crushing, and also to stabilise the whole unit :
The cabin end has a rolled edge. I filled in the rounded part to give me something to work to :
Filling in that edge really helped a lot to make a nice even roll without any "wobbles". The lighting makes it look a bit uneven in the pics - in reality it's turned out close to perfect . I glued each tab one at a time to give me time to push it into place properly :
The slots between four of the tabs wasn't drawn correctly, and I finished up with gaps in them when I glued it up. I filled the gaps with some scrap paper. They are nearly impossible to pick with the naked eye :
The skin was a beautiful fit, no adjustment necessary :
The ash box was a rather fiddly thing to glue up, but I'm more than happy with the result :
I glued some tapered card around the inside of the edges to stop any bowing while gluing the ash box to the fire box :
The result was pretty good :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from popeye the sailor in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Next job was the two boilers. It only took me a day and a half to make them both, and the finished result was really good - some of the best pieces I've ever made .
Once again I added extra card strips to prevent any crushing - it's a lot easier to crush a beer can barehanded than to do the same to these :
Once the frames were finished I rolled and glued the skins. These were then slipped over the frames from one end and glued to them :
The front of the boiler has a domed end. I sanded the shape into some extra card pieces before skinning it :
I just had to take a couple of pics of my overall progress. The boilers and firebox are only sitting in place, it's a lot easier to add all the extras to them in smaller units :
Danny
-
Dan Vadas got a reaction from coxswain in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Hopefully I can remember how to take one on my old camera - it's been about 10 years since I last did .
The firebox. There were laser-cut support frames for this and the boilers. I added some extra 10mm wide strips that just touch inside the sides to prevent any crushing, and also to stabilise the whole unit :
The cabin end has a rolled edge. I filled in the rounded part to give me something to work to :
Filling in that edge really helped a lot to make a nice even roll without any "wobbles". The lighting makes it look a bit uneven in the pics - in reality it's turned out close to perfect . I glued each tab one at a time to give me time to push it into place properly :
The slots between four of the tabs wasn't drawn correctly, and I finished up with gaps in them when I glued it up. I filled the gaps with some scrap paper. They are nearly impossible to pick with the naked eye :
The skin was a beautiful fit, no adjustment necessary :
The ash box was a rather fiddly thing to glue up, but I'm more than happy with the result :
I glued some tapered card around the inside of the edges to stop any bowing while gluing the ash box to the fire box :
The result was pretty good :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Next job was the two boilers. It only took me a day and a half to make them both, and the finished result was really good - some of the best pieces I've ever made .
Once again I added extra card strips to prevent any crushing - it's a lot easier to crush a beer can barehanded than to do the same to these :
Once the frames were finished I rolled and glued the skins. These were then slipped over the frames from one end and glued to them :
The front of the boiler has a domed end. I sanded the shape into some extra card pieces before skinning it :
I just had to take a couple of pics of my overall progress. The boilers and firebox are only sitting in place, it's a lot easier to add all the extras to them in smaller units :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from popeye the sailor in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Hopefully I can remember how to take one on my old camera - it's been about 10 years since I last did .
The firebox. There were laser-cut support frames for this and the boilers. I added some extra 10mm wide strips that just touch inside the sides to prevent any crushing, and also to stabilise the whole unit :
The cabin end has a rolled edge. I filled in the rounded part to give me something to work to :
Filling in that edge really helped a lot to make a nice even roll without any "wobbles". The lighting makes it look a bit uneven in the pics - in reality it's turned out close to perfect . I glued each tab one at a time to give me time to push it into place properly :
The slots between four of the tabs wasn't drawn correctly, and I finished up with gaps in them when I glued it up. I filled the gaps with some scrap paper. They are nearly impossible to pick with the naked eye :
The skin was a beautiful fit, no adjustment necessary :
The ash box was a rather fiddly thing to glue up, but I'm more than happy with the result :
I glued some tapered card around the inside of the edges to stop any bowing while gluing the ash box to the fire box :
The result was pretty good :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from hexnut in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :
Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :
With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
Cheers, Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from hexnut in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling .
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet" .
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :
Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :
The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Moab in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Good luck with that model Caroline, it looks a reasonably "easy" one to try as a first loco (if any are actually easy ). I think you'll find the Modelik kit to be quite a good one, detailing is nice and the instruction diagrams are understandable. It seems you've avoided a kit with a couple of thousand rivets, instead you have a couple of hundred louvres to cut .
Take a look through THESE PICS of a finished model of one. They may come in useful for your build.
P.S. A laser-cut Rail set is also available, makes a nice "stand" for the loco.
Cheers, Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from lmagna in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :
Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :
With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
Cheers, Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from yvesvidal in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling .
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet" .
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :
Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :
The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :
Danny
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Dan Vadas reacted to vulcanbomber in HMS Pegasus by vulcanbomber - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64
Now off the plug and in need of a tidy up inside.
After a tidy up with my trusty Dremel and the capping rail fitted (cut from 0.8mm basswood)
So this is where I am at now. Next will be the floorboards.
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Dan Vadas reacted to vulcanbomber in HMS Pegasus by vulcanbomber - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64
The new keel was cut from 1.5mm basswood and glued in place. I even managed to make a rabbet!
Planking is 0.5mm maple strips 3mm wide.
Now ready to cut from the plug.
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Dan Vadas reacted to vulcanbomber in HMS Pegasus by vulcanbomber - Amati/Victory Models - 1/64
I have been working on my little longboat for Pegasus.
I have made the hull using the plug method again.
The false keel and frames were cut from 1.5mm Basswood, frames are glued to keel and let dry.
The balsa fillers glued in and roughly shaped.
After sanding.
Large balsa bock glued to top of plug for sticking the frames to, and the frames cut, soaked and bent round the plug. Held to thoroughly dry by rubber bands.
Frames now glued in place and ready for the planking.
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from Archi in Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
I have all of the above except for the Planer. The tool most used out of them all is the Byrnes Table Saw .
Apart from the obvious uses you can't beat it for making very exact rebates, for example in Mast Tops :
Or for cutting planks to half thickness for the Top Floors :
Danny
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Dan Vadas got a reaction from yvesvidal in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Getting the crank mechanisms to actually work took some thought, as the kit makes no provision for this - it's simply all glued together.
I made every joint moveable (too many actually - the valve control mechanism is separate from the drive cranks and didn't really need doing) by punching and pinning every one. Most joints are held together with paper "nuts" which are the only parts of the joints that are glued. Here is the slide for the upper shaft which also needs to pivot :
Some close-ups of all the right-hand side crank mechanisms :
With everything now in place the crank movement has really improved. It will get close to perfect once the drive wheels actually touch down - at the moment they are in mid-air as they don't have a flange like the other wheels.
I've started making the boilers. More progress updates will follow as I have something to show.
Cheers, Danny
-
Dan Vadas got a reaction from popeye the sailor in 2-6-6-4 "Bulgar" Steam Locomotive by Dan Vadas - Modelik - 1:25 - CARD - FINISHED
Welcome to my build Gary. Paper modelling has it's own challenges, the solutions to some of which I've been fortunate to pick up from other MSW members and others from European Paper modellers. The medium is huge over there, probably as big as wood or plastic modelling .
In the words of Bachmann Turner Overdrive - "You ain't seen nuthin' yet" .
The crank pins are dealt with in similar fashion to the axles, using 2.0mm brass tubing and 1.6mm styrene rod which I heated with a small soldering iron to mushroom the end. It was then cleaned up and filed as flat as possible with a diamond-coated needle file :
Once the axles were all installed I made some "hubcaps" from scrap paper. In my opinion they look better than the bare axle, which is actually the "correct" way on the original :
The crank pins are also covered, I punched out some 0.5mm paper and glued them to the back of the printed parts to give them enough clearance :
Danny
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