ECK
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Everything posted by ECK
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Thanks, definitely enough room. I like to add the poly since if I accidentally get paint on the unpainted areas I can scrape/ light sand off without major damage. Of note, I have tried various method of tapering the bow sections of the planks. Always hard with blade /ruler method to get each side symmetrical. Settled on marking the are to be removed, clamping the 2 planks together and then planning done to get 2 almost identical curved planks.
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I also found the bow sections of the veneers needed significant trimming to align properly.
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Second planking done. Here before sanding All taped up for sanding After sanding And after a little poly
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Spent the weekend doing the second planking. About 13 rows to go. So far pretty symmetrical. So far my not sanding down the stern fascia and planking into it seems to be working
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It has been a busy week in more ways than one. Having glued the bulwark in, I started the planking process. You can see the rough planked hull Then after cleaning it up. You can see I am trying to protect the bow as it just wants to break Next added the outer layer over the sternpost , bow and false keel. followed by the stern fascia As Blue Ensign noted, it would be nice to cover the endgrain of the second planking rather than leaving exposed as in the original instructions. When adding the stern fascia it is advised to sand it down flush with the first planking. I noticed there seems to be enough room to actually but the end of the second planking against it so I'll gice it a try. This would pbviate me needing to produce a larger fram from scrap pieces of wood. As an aside, with several empty nest rooms , found a place to display several of Chris' designs, Granado, Flirt, Duchess and Adder
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Agree, giving me good ideas as well.
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Glad you caught it. Same thing almost happened to me. Seems when you align the stern it twists the bow upwards.
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Nice. I noticed the same issue I run into where the first plank runs around the ow but leaves a gap between the plank and the bulwark.
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As advertised, the deck clicked into place without and fiddling needed Next feathered the ribs Nest the stern patterns Finally soaked and bent the the hull siding to dry overnight. As others have noted, you need a lot of clamps.
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Finally installed the bolts and rings then completed the beams
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Finished the 18 ft cutter. My rings came in so I can get back to the hull tomorrow.
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Today's job was the 22 ft ships boat
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As I am waiting for the rings I purchased to come in to complete the hatch covers, I, like Glenn UK decided to do a few other repetitive tasks that need to be done. I decided to assemble the carronades and long guns. First a lot of char removal as it is hard to cover when airbrushing. Although made easier by this nice tool Next came sticking them on my painting board and finally a good airbrushing, a bit out of focus. The final assembly with eyebolts and rings done. Total time to do all the guns about 6 hrs.
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Spent a bit of time preparing the beams. First scraping the majority of the char with a scalpel then sanding As I painted the lower bulwarks, I decided also to paint the beams, similar to the Indy. Then inserting them into place
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After seeing Glenn -UK's paint job of the lower deck, I decided to do the same. As I had already glued things, had do do a lot of taping before spraying. Unfortunately slight seepage requiring some scraping and sanding. Also recived the door handles and hinges from Syren and installed them.
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Did the same thing ordering the handles and then had to order the hinges. Fortunately being in the US shipping takes a bit less time.
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Next ,although not required, painted hatches and capstan base Next sail locker, really need to clap on veneers to prevent curls. Also orient veneers so plank lines align around Blue Ensin and Glenn UK took photos of brick pavers to print a base. As I do not have a color printer decided to do something different. Used scrap base then cut out wood bricks from some 1x3. Then glued them in staggered pattern. Filled with wood filler Then painted red and rubbed down Added white wash for mortar lines and rubbed again then light rubbing again with red paint Next painted stove and added metallic filings to age it and mounted on faux brick base Of course did not glue stove pipe chimney, that comes much later
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You and Blue Ensign giving me many thing to think of. I already got the door fittings from Syren Ship Models
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I have yet to use copper tape. I opted for full copper tiles when I did Indy. Tape is easy to cut, trim and attach, no glue getting on the tiles. You do have to cut hundreds of pieces so you need a cutter seen below to make it easier and standardized. Also if you want the appearance of nails you would have to scribe 4 sides of each tile with the tool below. Problem with the real thing is harder to trim (especially around the rudder) and use a lot of cyano. Occasionally falling off and needing to be reglued. To me, the real copper tiles just look better as seen on my Indy build below
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I agree the wood is soft so I tape over bulwarks on second planking . Also when using clamps usually put some scrap wood so no direct pressure on the veneers.
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Lost of assembly work today. First the cradle Next faring the ribs. In this kit for the first time a line is provided so as not to over do it Next assembling the hull structure. Everything interlocks so no glue until the end Then the reinforcing keels Locking inserts At this point gluing the etched decks to the underdeck. Lots of clamps to keep the thin etched deck from curling up. Followed by inserting them and locking them into place Bow fillers sanded to line and can see when together pretty symmetric Inserted into placed then capped Last for the day are the cabin assemblies on the stern made of multiple pieces Have to remember to make mirror images of each other Finally slotted into place A At this point brushing with wood glue permissible
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Finally had the time to start unpacking the kit. A Few others have started so I can follow along as well. Ki, as all Vanguard ones, come in a pleasing box. All elements nicely packed Brass, copper and book up top. You can see I unwrapped the printed ship's boats and stove as well as opened the boxes containing rigging thread and various other pieces Lower layers of the box contain the laser etched parts Thought I would get the copper tape but was pleased when I saw actual copper plates
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Finally completed HMS Granado, one of Chris's early works with Amati. I think the way I finshed it it looks a lot like a Vanguard model. Next project will be Chris Watton's latest addition the brig HM Harpy. Stay tuned.
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Mizzen rigging done. Main bowlines done. To finish main braces and sheets and tack as well as spritsail braces. Anchors the finishing touch.
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Another week and stays all in as well as driver and bow crane. Next complete the yard lifts.
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