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Richard Dunn

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Everything posted by Richard Dunn

  1. Richard Dunn
    Some progress shots I started to fit the shell around the stern and mooring deck which when on properly starts to look like a ship! I have to admit the stern is one of my favourite parts. the framing and bulwark stays in the mooring deck will all be built from 1mm ply and will stiffen the .5mm ply no end. A shot side on from a bit back to get the size, this is a double garage by the way. Once the plating around the lower level of aft superstructure is primed and on I can build the cafeterias, currently that is where the top lounge is drooping down on top of it, once this is done it will start looking better, mast bases will be on next week to. Of course hull carving will make a difference but waiting on a certain person before I can do that and for my thrusters. This shows the actual finished .5mm surfaces of the forward Superstructure and Deck, you can see the 12 inch waterway along the deck edge next to the mushroom vent holes. The joint of the superstructure and deck has a 6mm strip of .5mm ply glued to the bottom, the deck bar as its called but its not on yet of course. You might be able to see how the windows will be done here, the 2mm clear acrylic is glued flush into the 2mm substrate before plates are glued on, the .5mm plates are treated for the tin canning effect primed and glued on over the glazing and then the styrene windows are pre painted and glued into the hole in the .5mm plates and masked with liquid masking ready for painting the hull. Anyone got any opinion of gorilla glue?
  2. Richard Dunn
    The structure that supports the Cutty Sark is a cantilever system, I will try to explain it as it was explained to me. Along both sides of the hull are cantilevers that are each made of 2 primary girders,one attaches to the ship at waterline and mounts higher up to ground, the other attaches at same point and attaches to ground at the base lower down forming a triangular crane like frame, when 2 of these are placed either side and downward pressure applied to them the lock up and tighten the grip on the area between the frames, this is counteracted by quite heavy beams running through the ship that effectively the ship hangs from, there are also considerable doubler frames that have been added to the rusting original frames but they carry very little weight other than the local stress of the ships fabric itself like the planking and adjacent structure. Personally I hate what they did, I think the lines are lost and the canopy looks nothing like a sea or wave, since when does ocean look like the ship is sitting in a soft sponge. The way it's been positioned shows less than the normal free-board as well anyway which gives a bad impression of the hull. Just my opinion but hate it. Of course this is a simplistic explanation and this image shows it better.
  3. Richard Dunn
    Yep it has layers. Museums seem to be forgetting nautical history across the board. even now I am getting a museum in new Zealand to find the Wahine builders model I saw and photographed in 1986. How does a museum lose a 3m builders model of a ship that has such a part of history in NZ. even the anniversary's of her sinking are in the news every year.
  4. Richard Dunn
    You do have the Jordan ones, they are the wrinkled ones and the dark ones are the Lloyds ones but also jordan.
  5. Richard Dunn
    Some update, fitting finish plates to model, they will be primed and have windows fitted along with any structure like stiffeners and rivets before being glued to model. The curtain plates can be seen protruding up in places. Also the base for the Aft lounge sitting on the upper deck can be seen and the large 56mm windows, as you can see, it needs an interior. Added this a a similar shot for comparison. Above showing the promenade screen sitting in place shows the large area that has to be finished before being able to close it in. The bridge is going to be a very difficult piece of work, the hard parts are not shown here yet.
  6. Richard Dunn
    Yeah I have done printing before just not an expert yet. These are not setup for printing in this image but these parts are done. I have just put these on plate for display only
  7. Richard Dunn
    Cool I might see what I get, I only need the rivet heads not the shaft and need about 3000 of them so this will be good. Its the supports that take practice I am finding, actually I wonder.....hmmm I might even be able to print lengths of weld seam with a tiny bit of wobble. That scales at between .6 and .9 in width off that photo. Dam it why do the holidays have to end today.
  8. Richard Dunn
  9. Richard Dunn
    I have sent you a PM with link to file.
  10. Richard Dunn
    A bit of history about the campbell plans, assuming these are the official ones from the Cutty Sark shop. They were drawn in the 50's for the restoration, now in saying that during that restoration they did not survey or measure the hull so in regard to the "big" details like lines, sheer, stem rake etc it is out, but in regards to fittings and things like that it is pretty good but I have noticed some errors in things locations in the past. have you got Photoshop? or can you open PSD files? if you do I will superimpose Campbells over the file I used in the workshop and shoot it to you so you can make your own conclusions
  11. Richard Dunn
    Well I have been experimenting with making windows, I have cut all the 2mm Acrylic glass on the ship now so that's done. So I was playing with styrene or PE for windows and have opted for styrene as I have found I can in fact cut it on the CNC without it melting. This is a HUGE advantage as gluing the frame to the glass can be done neatly with Tamiya cement and all the edge bars around the frames can be welded on, all I will do is make a jig that holds the frame in the bottom of a hole and bend in the lip to fit the sides and weld, then paint and add the wood mullion and glue to the clear Acrylic, this is going to produce pretty faithfull windows to the real thing, and not too slow either which is just as well as I have 300 odd windows to make of varying types
  12. Richard Dunn
    The Scale decks planking on the new one is pretty close I must say, at 1/96 each plank is 1.3mm so hard to do. Also no one really knows what the truth about the deck was when she was a working ship. The decks after the 50's restoration were a sham deck and laid on ply (due to cost and ease of obtaining wood).. The decks as restored are based on old photos and what not but still... the way it is done now you have the margin planks around edge as well as 2 king planks that run alongside the deckhouses, and the sides and middle planking are separated by these king planks but there is little to say it was done like this when she was built. Nepean Longridges book was written while she was still afloat as a training ship and in his observations makes no comment on these king planks other then they go around deckhouses and hatches. I would suspect the 2 king planks are in the way they are is to make access to the longitudinal deck stringers which correspond to them easy to access.
  13. Richard Dunn
    Here you can see the main hatch is 2 spaces to get the location for the beams the frames shown here are the webs and are the locations of beams. If you take the distance from the break of the poop to the after side of main hatch and divide that into 15 sections, that's your frame spacing. assuming model is accurate anyway. I wont bug you if your not too worried... I cant help myself when I see Cutty Sark given my time working on her. Just PM me if you need any info..
  14. Richard Dunn
    Ok the deck beams are located at the web frames only, if you look at the photos I sent you of the hull with all the planking removed on the deck you will see how the main hatch is located between 2 deck beam spaces but the C Jordan plans show the web frame locations, its the same plan I used in the workshop.
  15. Richard Dunn
    I just checked and he has updated the older one. see here https://scaledecks.com/sailing-ships Also not sure if you know this but She was sheathed in Muntz metal not copper, Muntz is about 60% copper and 40% zinc but colour is closer to brass, if you are trying to be accurate you would want to mix a bit of Copper paint into Brass. The Sark as she is now is done in muntz but has a higher zinc content than older muntz so is a bit yellower than the old Muntz.
  16. Richard Dunn
    Have you considered using Scaledecks wooden decks? The rather long link is here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/222876236317?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3Df90b4265f33542f5882eb8def39447f5%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D123616690939%26itm%3D222876236317%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeed%26brand%3DRevell&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A222876236317f90b4265f33542f5882eb8def39447f5|enc%3AAQAGAAACEHxeNwGvxhbG4i%2B6Yg0%2Fb6cIW5Q98PGCtfKeijU4yGRR35tmtW5t4PaQz3GngeWecUz64dj77wEWnYdMgXGg3Udvd0OpaxtTCiDDZAVftMbHQen499A5tlEnQEu9uNwZAhLlyPobY6BKeE%2BpYywXRUU9hhvdHFhyvsZOM9%2BaxG%2BmYia60esDoeTdL0TMN3Kt%2FedavXza16vtQinXvMzXzjY5e1rHmJbSynA0vWVNUVlmYH5cypViuclGSHQ%2BFxvBGHlKc8NvA%2Bz69ljiK490b8gRm%2BI96zFQlzEHPS2xq5Q6L7oh1BlGhfCFp4kw%2F4qaG2O7DsV12%2FTIT2%2BZbfLpsQPLMfbhxguHBXeYIU1rB05tbXi3bCuCjGaPDZFtn9%2BpFX3CQwJjKIVlAOLsoITRNH%2BDuE92n%2B8Qqd6uhxl1bk0QTB40WZOgMN4j4TU3DVCT144d61M6BGTrwZgVE4pL9WeXIxnJQYYr7U5mTD41YPDXxCRI7P58eVen%2BjSlX30hKCIdK8CkP6i0e%2BCnI2F3FTwLOqPNCV%2BITJ7ZHEUysOVMDi%2BNO5gMu%2Bt%2Ff3wU7aNh0Ej4lZWXFaMuZmZRU8d6BFsvruTbVZeqR4X8tIBYEnsAjpDUHmZyBpHyG%2Fu30mFzOmvtAiR0mb2VMQGbHJp53p9CBs4FCm06kse%2BmvxEUbw2TSpwByv%2FqrGR%2Ft4n19Bw9w%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675&epid=603166947 Just a word though. like the plastic ones the wood ones are not accurate to scale, and roughly only half the number of planks are shown as well as plugs for fixing which look terrible and would not be seen at 1/96. The beam spacing for plank fixing is dictated by the main hatch and that should be exactly 2 spans long and 7 along forward deckhouse for example. its possible the printing has limitations for resolution but I have bought his 1/200 Titanic set and its awesome so it might be old and in need of upgrade I would ask for a custom deck, I can give you a proper deck plan of planking on deck if he is willing to do a new one and can laser print it for you. He is hard to get hold of though I have read.
  17. Richard Dunn
    Those are some interesting considerations, I think I will adhere to this but get it to a primed state and leave it at that. I do think it needs to be at that point so weld seams etc can be done and painted over.
  18. Richard Dunn
    Some progress shots from today the smoke room and windows inside Lots of grills to make as you can see here on the fan rooms A lot of glue smear etc but you can see the joints all came up pretty tight given the size.
  19. Richard Dunn
    Guys there is only one file, the file is 4hr 40mins you can't watch it within Dropbox as might have limits. you need to download it.
  20. Richard Dunn
    Yes VLC is one that works, it may not on some PC's as you might not have the right Codecs but I am not responsible for that and have spent enough time on this already, it took me half a day to edit and render out the different versions. It is edited because if I did not you would be downloading 10GB.
  21. Richard Dunn
    Hi All, Here is the link to the Webinar I held on the 23rd December. This is for all of you who are after a copy and attended or anyone who was not able to attend. https://www.dropbox.com/s/nq8liinoh9e4gqf/Hull Form Basics in Rhino.mp4?dl=0 Regards Richard
  22. Richard Dunn
    So the plan is to seal the plywood with Everdure to harden and protect the wood, sand it all properly flat. then paint areas like toespace and negative details in flat black and then glue the paper panels which have been prepared onto the model, then use thin strips of adhesive aluminium tape to do all the trims and then varnish. The panels are prepped by cutting from sheet running around edge with felt tip of matching colour and varnishing with picture satin varnish. The furniture will be all done on resin printer and painted with pins to fix into floor so it does not shake loose.
  23. Richard Dunn
    Above is the floor and murals from around the engine uptake casing, both seen here in photos. Sorry about res, I forgot to size down.
  24. Richard Dunn
    All done I have created the art for the different surfaces like formica, wood panelling and lino and lastly murals all printed and got the Micador spray as well to go.
  25. Richard Dunn
    I need some help I have to get some heavy paper printed with wood and linoleum patterns for the interior of some spaces, what ink is able to be sprayed with clear varnish without running?

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