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Jared

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Everything posted by Jared

  1. Jared
    Since September I have been working towards completing the various deck structures on the Flying Fish. This is still in progress. Here is where things stood as of the end on November. I thought the design of the anchor pull chords a bit flimsy and vague and decided to model mine after the ones described in Fig. 68 of C.N. Longridge's outstanding book on the Cutty Sark.
  2. Jared
    As noted in my Sept. 24 post, when I started back up with my build late this summer, my first task was to construct a mahogany mounting board. I then mounted my model onto it, using brass pedestal's I purchased from Model Expo. Rather than using the brass screws supplied for the attachment, I followed the recommended mounting using brass rods I cut from wire instead. This made it much easier to ensure the hull was mounted squarely. There is a thread on mounting the hull this way in the help section of Modelshipworld.
  3. Jared
    Thanks George. I have been trying to make ladders the last two days. Not decided yet whether to use them of the metal ones. it does not take much of a cutting error to throw the whole ladder off into a twisted mess. A question or afterthought for anyone who understands railings. The forecastle deck has an elevation of about 5 feet above the main deck. The plans show that there is a rail on the ladder leading between these decks. but not on the aft overhang on the forecastle. In a book I have on clipper ships, it does show rails on some of the larger clipper ships, but not on all. By modern standards that would be a safety no no. It is odd that there would be a safety rail on the ladder but not on the forecastle itself. As on isn't in Buttersworth's painting of the FF, I guess it really didn't have one (He does show the rail on the poop deck in his painting). Merry Christmas
  4. Jared
    Thanks for this information on the figurehead of the Flying Fish ClipperFan, and for your feedback gak1965. Merry Christmas..
  5. Jared
    Nice work on the deck structures George. I don't know the answer to your question of the pin placement. I think I just followed the design on the plans. I am impressed with the work on the railing on your poop deck. Looks like a challenge ahead for me. It appears that my build is not much far behind yours. I am trying to decide what to do about the ladders - to use the Brittania cast ones supplied in the kit or scratch build them. I think am going to have a go at the latter and see how that works. Merry Christmas, Jared
  6. Jared
  7. Jared
    This set of images shows the construction of the Deck and Poop Houses, and a number of the other structures on the deck as of early 2012, when my work on my Flying Fish model unfortunately had to be mothballed, only to be picked up in late summer of 2021, 9 years later. I decided to build the two houses on solid blocks of balsa wood, to provide additional structural support and strength See first image below).
  8. Jared
    Sorry I have been preoccupied on other things. Here I pick up on my build log with the building of the chain plates and deadeyes. I used marked dowels with thread attached as temporary masts to help me lay out the positioning of the chain plates and deadeyes (see second photo). I don't recall the details of how I made them other than following the plans and soldering them together, then mounting them on the hull, adding the wood planks and painting.
  9. Jared
    I agree with your comments on the metal castings. I debated whether or not to use the fife rails. In the end I did. They are pretty soft and the hole all had to be carefully drilled out. I nearly have it all mounted. Fitting the bilge pump required bending the metal.
  10. Jared
    Here are a few images taken during the build on the poop deck of my model. At this stage the anchor release chords had not been installed.
  11. Jared
    Welcome aboard. Its good to have several of us on this challenging build. Jared
  12. Jared
    Jumping ahead to the present, I just completed construction of the mounting board base I will use to mount my Flying Fish. I was fortunate to have access to a woodshop with a shop planer. I built the base by gluing together 3 pieces of mahogany I had machined to size. After it dried, the board was sanded smooth, then passed through a router to give a nice shape to the upper edge. It was then finely sanded, stained and finished with a couple of coats of tung oil. Holes were partially drilled through the base at the locations of the brass pedestals. The ship will be mounted to the base vial brass rods (approx. 3 mm dia.) which I will epoxy the the base and in the hull, which was described in the tips section of this website. The use of bendable brass rods is a neat way to ensure the ship will be mounted level later. Because of the coppering, the brass pedestals had to be filed wider at the top notch to fit over the keel.
  13. Jared
    I don't recall to precisely the details of the construction after completion of the coppering of the hull. From the dates on my photos, I worked on several structures including installing the topgallant rail, taffrail, and started construction of the deckhouse. To strengthen the timberheads, I secured them with both glue and inserted cut pins (see photo).
  14. Jared
    Hi. I am in Oakville. Where are you?
  15. Jared
    After completing the painting of the upper section of the hull, I began the long and arduous journey of coppering the Hull. Some images of the finished coppering were posted on my second log entry above. I marked off the lengths of several copper sheets at a time using a marked scrap sheet of wood as shown in the first photo below and scoring the cut location along an edge using an hobby knife. To achieve 90 degree cuts I cut the sheets on a Chopper II. Using a set of geometry dividers, I then marked the lines for the coppering upwards and towards the bow to achieve the correct overlapping pattern of the copper plates. I used a smooth scrap of wood to help me press each copper plate into place. Images of several of these steps are shown in the photos below, along with some of the intermediate and finished results. Early in the coppering I drilled holes in the keel for the future mounting pedestal brass rods (photo 5).
  16. Jared
    After completing the bulwarks, for reasons I don't recall I jumped ahead of the instructions and made and installed the 1/32" gooseneck pipe vents. I then planked the forecastle deck, and then painted the upper part of the hull black, covering up all my carefully laid planking. The following set of images track this all. For making the gooseneck vents, I have a pair of grounded down, rounded needle nose pliers which I made to fabricate small loops and other rounded structures from brass wire. I don't recall how I marked to lower paint line. I probably took measurements from the drawings using geometry dividers.
  17. Jared
    Building the bulwarks. One never has too many clamps!
  18. Jared
    I too have been struggling with what to do with the anchor release pull cord. There seems to be very little info on this on the internet. The only thing I have to go on are 2 photos I took in 2016 of the Curry Sarks cathead and a description of that ships anchor release gear on pages 172 and 173 of Longridge’s “The Curry Sark” book. These show that ship’s release mechanism includes a stout metal shaft that passes through the bulwarks at the front of the catheads. I will follow this design on my FF, given the lack of any other info., using a pull rope rather than a stiff rod. I am finding you build log very helpful.
  19. Jared
    Next up was the planking of the main deck which I enjoyed. I basically followed the methodology and plan in the manual (Photo 1). The planks were cut to 2.5" lengths then edge painted with black paint to simulate the caulked seams. They were laid in rows from the center of the deck in a staggered pattern, where the butt of every 4th board lined up with a bulkhead. This was simplified by drawing lines to locate the plank butts on the balsa underdeck which I discussed in an earlier log entry. Margin planks were fitted on the forward upper deck (Photo 2). To simulate treenails I used a sharp nail to form small holes at the ends of the planks, which I then filled in with mahogany-coloured wood filler. The deck was then finely sanded to give a clean smooth look (Photo 2). At a future stage of the build, I will probably apply tung oil to finish the deck.
  20. Jared
    The 4 images below show the finished planking. I tried to adhere as closely as I could to the planking instructions with respect to the length and width of the boards, staggering the planking butts and using stealer inserts. To strengthen some of the joints, I glued additional boards behind some of the planks, especially where the plank butts did not attach over a bulkhead. Sadly, with the hull now being coppered and painted, it is hard to really appreciate how much time and effort went into laying the planks properly!
  21. Jared
    My home made planking clamps in action. The first image below show the laying of some of the planks making up Belt F. For the first 2 rows of planks along the keel, the binder clips are affixed to the bulkhead, with the "flat side of the clamp pressed against the plank being glued to hold it tightly in place. The same is true for the first 2 rows of planks laid in Band A. Thereafter, I use the end of the clamp with the extended dowels to hold the freshly glued planks down. This provides additional surface to hold the planks more tightly against the bulkhead (see second image). At some point when the non-planked space between the descending and ascending rows of planks becomes too narrow, the clamps can no longer be used and I resort to the human finger clamp :-). I used a proportional divider to mark the location of each row of planks, within each band, on each bulkhead as shown in the 3 images below. This saved me a lot of time and grief.
  22. Jared
    I think the quality of the hull planking on a wooden model ship is of utmost importance. It is critical that the boards be cut right and fitted together tightly and smoothly, to achieve a museum quality look. It is therefore very important to acquire a good set of planking tools. The next photo shows what is in my tool box: 1. Plank tapering tool (top). This clamp-like jig hold the wood firmly in place and lets you taper the wood to the desired angle while preventing the wood strips from splitting. I use sharp razor blades for the cutting. 2. A set of dividers (bottom left) - for taking measurement off the build sheets and transferring them to the wood building materials. 3. A set of proportional dividers (second item in, bottom left) - although pricey, they are so worth it for marking the exact locations of the planks on the bulkheads. Makes the job so much easier. 4. Plank bender (crimping tool) - not shown in the photo. I believe mine was made by Artesania Latina. 5. Planking clamps (middle of the photos). These are needed to hold the planks firmly in place when gluing the planks to the hull. A number of vendors offer various planking clamps. I found it was easy enough to produce my own at negligible cost, using small-sized Acco binder clips to which I glued 2 small dowels with epoxy glue. The dowels were flush with one end of the clips and overhung the other (important). I will show some photos of how they are used in my next post. 6. For laying down the temporary batons in my previous log entry, I used a hand model nail driver (not shown in this photo) 7. Cutting pad 8. Chopper II - NorthWest Short Line - To cut the wood strips to desired lengths. (https.evergreenscalemodels.com/products/chopper-ii) Hope this was helpful.
  23. Jared
    You did a fantastic build!
  24. Jared
    After laying the balsa underdeck, I skipped ahead to planking the Hull, leaving construction of the bulwarks and rails to later. I closely followed the instructions on page 16 of the manual to mark the location of the belt seams on the bulkheads, using tick strips as shown in Photo 1 below. Then I tacked temporary battons along the seam marks to check that everything flowed correctly, making adjustments as necessary (Photos 2 & 3 below).
  25. Jared
    Thank you

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