
Jared
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Thanks ClipperFan and Rick 310. My kit had plenty of deadeyes but was missing a couple of other parts. Model Expo was advised and the missing parts were quickly sent with no fuss at all. Over the past few days I have made 14 hearts and 6 bullseyes. Looking forward to starting the rigging of the bowsprit this week.
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Most of the holes in the masts and bowsprit for the remaining eyebolts, sheaves and metal fittings have now been predrilled (Photo 1). I also finished off the fish figurehead, having added on the wings (Photo 2). The bowsprit has been secured in place (the other masts shown in the first photo are loosely fit in place for now. I am not ready to start rigging the bowsprit. The kit drawings call for a number of wooden hearts for the standing rigging, but supply none in the kit, so I have started scratch building my own (Photo. 3).
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Finishing up on the masts, I have added the heels for each topmast and topgallant mast. To do this, I filed the bottom of each mast square then built up the heels by gluing a thin plank to each. They were then sanded down to the required sizes and the top edge/corner of each heel was hand carved carved to shape with a razor blade. A hole was drilled through the bottom of each heel into which a small piece of brass rod (fid) was inserted. The fid, which rests on the trees, bears the weight of the mast. I believe this completes the construction of the 3 masts, except a few metal parts (trusses and eye bolts) which I will add later. I would like to get started on the lower standing rigging and work on this as I tackle the metal work and yards.
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Thanks Rick. My challenge will be making all the intricate metal structures that link the yards to the masts. Lots of techniques to learn.
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Over the last 2 days I have been focusing on finishing off the deck so that I can begin the rigging phase of the model. All of the belay fin holes had to be redrilled as they were too tight for the Belay pins. I tried to chemically blacken the metal belay pins that came with the kit but was disappointed by the results as they a came out as a rusty dark black. After painting them black I mounted them on the pin racks as shown in the photos below. I noticed that at the bow section of the boat I had missed building the 2 sheet pin rails and had some time ago erroneously misread the plans and drilled a few holes in the top rear plank of the forecastle. As you can see in the photo to the left, these errors and omissions were corrected. I also tried blackening then painted as above the 4 boat stanchions and mounted them loosely on the boat for the photo. These won't be permanently mounted until the model is nearly finished, to avoid accidently breaking them off.
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After a prolonged absence to do some travelling and other stuff, I have started up again on my Flying Fish. I have been installing the various blocks and eyebolts on the masts, as shown by the photo below. I just discovered that all the holes I had predrilled for the many belay pins are too tight and need to be redrilled 😞
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Home Sweet Home. Looks great George.
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This is an interestIng link of the lifespan of plastics: https://thediecastmodel.com/how-long-do-plastic-models-last/
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Congratulations George. You have done a magnificent job on this model and the workmanship bears this out! Your work certainly inspires me to keep working on mine. What's your next ship?
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I'm with Rick on this. Your log has been exceptionally helpful George and I am most thankful to you. Sorry I can't help on your davits question.
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Today I complete the topgallant masts. The second photo show a side view of the model, with the various masts loosely attached. I still have more to do on them, including installing fids, eyebolts, and blocks.
- 416 replies
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Over the weekend I made significant progress on the Bowsprit, Jib Boom and Dolphin Striker. The work on the Bowsprit and Jib Boom was fairly easy. The paint scheme is as per James Buttersworth's Flying Fish painting. The various holes for the ring bolts and other rigging components are difficult to see but have been completed.
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Spent all day today building the dolphin striker. This tiny part turned out to be one of the most challenging pieces to date. All of the small metal fittings on the dolphin striker were made by bending thin blackened copper wire. For the lower metal band I used adhesive copper tape. The lower fitting was made from a single piece of wire. On another note, I mentioned that I discovered the other day that I was missing one size of wooden blocks. I contacted Model Expo and soon after I received a reply that the missing blocks were on the way. What fantastic customer service!!
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Quick update. The spreaders on the 3 topmasts. I was hoping to start adding the blocks to the masts, but discovered on size of blocks was missing from my kit. While I await the missing parts from Model Expo, I will work on the bowsprit and jib-boom. I implemented your suggestion George to strengthen the spreaders with copper strip on the main topmast and mizzen topmast spreaders. I added copper strip where I could on the already completed spreader on the fore topmast as doing otherwise would have required a complete rebuild of the structure. Adding the cleats to the 2 new spreaders went much better than what I encountered on the fore topmast. Put it down to learning from experience and using finer tweezers.
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Thanks George for this great suggestion. I was very concerned about them breaking or bending when attaching the rigging.
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Since the last update I have begun working on the the topmasts & bowsprit. These have been loosely mounted on the ship. In the past few days I have built the top on the fore topmast (see photo). I will be painting the top white. The trickiest thing about building top was the fabricating and mounting the cleats on the spreader. I had to try different types of wood incl. multilayer strips before I finally found something I could cut without the tiny wood pieces falling apart.
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Like your phage George. What did you study in grad school? I am a bacteriologist.
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I wish you a soeedy recovery George. Covid is on a surge now, even for those fully vaccinated many times. 3 family members living in 3 different cities have had it in the last month.
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Thanks George and Rick for your quick, helpful responses. It will certainly be much easier adjusting the rigging made with the thread/cord rather than with stiffer wire.
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Forgive my ignorance about the standing rigging on the Flying Fish. From the drawings and instruction book, it looks like the standing rigging is to be made from dark thread, meant to simulate tarred hemp. UNDERHILL states in his book on clipper ship masting & rigging that "By the beginning of our period ( i.e.clipper period) wire had to a large extent superseded hemp for all forms of standing rigging". Should I be making the standIng rigging from blackened brass wire? Thanks.
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My ship has also been on hyatius for various reasons. Best to take your time and work on it when you are in the right frame of mind. I look forward to seeing your progress!
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Have now completed the futtock shrouds on the lower main mast and mizzen mast. The work on these went much easier and faster than those on the foremast. Put it down to experience 😀. Much easier to do once you have worked it all out. Nowhere as difficult as what I implied earlier.
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