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Jared

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Everything posted by Jared

  1. Jared
    Over the last 3 days I complete construction of the spanker boom including mounting it on the ship and rigging it. As you can see from the photos below, the rigging was fairly complex, consisting of topping lifts, lift falls, spanker boom sheets and footropes. Each of these were rigged on the port and stbd. sides.
  2. Jared
    It is a weak spot. It is where the tip on my Flying Fish jibboom also broke. While there are other sheave holes on the FF spars, on the advice of another modeller I now apply a coat of superglue around all drill sites before drilling. I am also using a stronger wood (maple/birch) as my spar material. I also intend to house the completed FF in a case to protect it and keep it clean.
  3. Jared
    I decided to see if I could apply my newly discovered skills to repair my first plank on frame build, the Artesania Latina 1805 Virginia Pilot boat Swift. The top mast was accidently snapped of several years ago and seemed to defy glue repairs (photo 1). I determined that the problem was the running rigging at the top of the mainmast was too tight. I decided today to see if I could try to undo one end of the line and try the repairs again. I had to use a combination of hot water, acetone and laquer thinner treatments to eventually loosen and release the line attached to a deck cleat. I then repaired the upper mast with epoxy glue and retied the running rigging line after the epoxy on the mast cured. I secured the new knot with white glue. The repaired model is shown in photos 2-4). Now I am back at my Flying Fish.
  4. Jared
    The one thing troubling me the most about my model has been the loose lift lines on the main lower mast (see items 293 & 208 of this build). With my frequent accidental encounters with the mast as I continued with the rigging, the problem got much worse with the upper lines of the lift sagging terribly (photo 1). Through some luck and thought I have been able to fix this. As to the luck, yesterday the cap of my superglue was so plugged up with solidified glue and would no longer fit, causing the nozzle to plug. It defied removal by physical means so I turned to the internet and discovered acetone would dissolve hardened superglue. Sure enough this did the trick and my glue is good again. So what has this to do with my sagging main lower yard lifts? The rigging lines at the end of my lower mast were glued with a superglue. Carefully applying small amounts of acetone to the rope allowed me to open the knots and then retighten the rigging (photos 2 &-4).
  5. Jared
    The standing rigging on the mainmast has now been completed. A lot of slow careful and sometimes very difficult work. I am holding off securing the Mn Royal and Mn Sky backstays for now, to leave more room under and behind the main mast to make later rigging of the mizzen stays easier. Thanks for looking.
  6. Jared
    It's looking really nice George. You are making a lot of progress.
  7. Jared
    I was led astray by the rigging sequence and approach I read in several books including the kit's plans. I did not learn of Rob's superior approach until it was too late, but now am a convert trying to implement his methods as best as I can. Lesson learned the harder way: work smarter not harder. The standing rigging on the main mast is coming along fine. I will update the log with photos when I am further along .
  8. Jared
    With the lanyards on the shrouds of the lower mizzen mast off now I have a lot easier access to the deck area under and on the aft side of the mast, which will make rigging in these areas much easier. Rigging the lanyards back on will be a later step.
  9. Jared
    The mizzen topmast is only loosely fit at the moment.
  10. Jared
    Thanks George. They were snug. However after slicing the lanyards on 1 side I was able to pull it out. I then used a dremel tool to slant the hole. I also had to cut the lanyards on the other side. I have reglued the mast and am going to leave it overnight before securing the ratlines with new lanyards. Surprisingly the fix has so far been rather painless.
  11. Jared
    Have been pursuing Rob's advice and have prerigged a lot of the standing rigging and futtock's shrouds onto the main topsail and topgallant masts while these were off the model. It was sooooo much easier doung it this way! Yesterday I glued this assembly onto the main mast so I can finish up the rigging. Along the way I discovered a major FUBAR setback that I now need to address. While all of the masts align well in the profile direction, I discovered when viewing the model from the bow or stern ends, that the lower mizzen mast was badly misaligned (see attached photo). How I missed this I have no idea. A really bad seniors moment for sure! I gave a lot of thought about what to do about how to repair it. While the mizzen shrouds and ratlines are completed the mast itself was not glued in place. I think the simplest way to fix the problem without destroying everything I have rigged on the mizzen mast would be to cut and remove the lower lanyards then pull out the mast and fix the drill angle through the aft cabin roof. I certainly would welcome any better ideas. 🙄
  12. Jared
    That was my understanding. I have not read the NRG article. Thanks.
  13. Jared
    Thanks @ClipperFan for all this detailed information and your evaluation of it all. Interestingly, the Model Shipways drawings you attached are not the same as the ones that came with my newer Model Shipways Flying Fish kit. Offhand I cannot say how close the two sets are measurements wise. Its hard for me to compare from the small size and resolution of the drawings you attached and the need to see a scale bar on the earlier plans. I do note one obvious difference in the locations of the ships boats.
  14. Jared
    Given how many design errors you have all discovered in the fore section of the plan, I am apprehensive to find out the accuracy of the rest of the model's build plans 😳. Hopefully they are not going to be an issue. On the positive side this kit has been an excellent educational tool, both for honing fine boat building scratch-building skills and making me really appreciate how the art of tall ship building evolved.
  15. Jared
    I think you are all doing an important service to the hobby so I was I was happy to join NRG this week to support what you are all doing. When one thinks about the many hours us modellers spend perfecting our models, it goes without saying that we want them to be as accurate as possible. The state of my build is too advanced for me to redo the revealed bow corrections. They would require a major effort and skills beyond where I think I am. However I don't think anyone starting to build the model would have any real difficulty incorporating the plan changes through scratch building.
  16. Jared
    Unfortunately that is not so easy. Many (perhaps most) craftsman kit builders come from very different non-nautical backgrounds and believe when spending a fair bit on money on our kits that they are historically correct. When I bought my Flying Fish kit in 2006, I had just completed the CW Morgan whaler by Artesinia Latina. Half way through that build I learned the model was very inaccurate and I used scratch building to fix as much as I could. For my next build I wanted a kit with quality historically correct plans and was attracted to the Model Shipways Flying Fish based on positive comments at the time about the accuracy of the Langford plans that were part of the kit.
  17. Jared
    This month has been a real eye opener for me on the many inaccuracies in the plans of the entire bow section of the Flying Fish that have recently and not so recently come to light. For the benefit of future readers, some of this is discussed here, some in the FF build log of @Rick310 and some in the completed FF build log of @gak1965. Thanks @ClipperFan, @rwiederrich and @Vladimir_Wairoa for sharing your discoveries.
  18. Jared
    You certainly have been busy with your travels and model George. You visited many interesting sites that I sure would like to photograph.
  19. Jared
    Completed securing the fore mast stays to the hull and martingale. Footropes still need to be added.
  20. Jared
    I have completed the standing rigging on the foremast. The forestays have been secured to the bowsprit and jib-boom, but not yet to the hull. It has been a learning curve for sure. Slow exacting work with a few difficult challenges thrown in to make things more interesting. Thanks for your interest and encouragement.
  21. Jared
    Thanks Rob. I really appreciate your clear explanation of the well thought out approach you follow when rigging. It will be very helpful as I work through the rigging challenges ahead and try to adapt your recommendations to my present state of build. Thanks again.
  22. Jared
    Thanks Clipperfan. A detailed article describing Rob's technique will be extremely valuable to this community. I have about 30 books on model ship building including a several of major well known works on rigging. These explain in great detail and with wonderful drawings how tall ships were rigged. However when it comes to guidance for rigging model ships, the suggested rigging sequence is covered in one or two paragraphs with little additional explanation. I think your article will fill a real void!
  23. Jared
    Thanks Rick. I am sure every method if rigging will have its unique challenges. With respect to the cross trees, GAK had a great idea for making then more robust by gluing a small brass strip underneath the fragile wooden spreaders. I followed his method and am glad I did. Looking forward to seeing your wonderful progress.
  24. Jared
    I fully agree. As each new line is added my model is beginning to look more and more like something special. I expect to complete the standing rigging on the fore mast this week. My biggest regret so far is installing the lower yard on the fore mast before completing the standing rigging. I have accidently hit it so many times 🤬. Given that my that the lower main and mizzen masts are already glued in place, I would appreciate advice as to how to best proceed from this point. My thinking is that once the standing rigging is complete on the fore mast I should finish off this mast with yards and halliards and lifts before moving on to rigging the main mast, and subsequently, rig the mizzen mast. Installing the yard braces to be left to the end or there abouts. Thanks
  25. Jared
    Been actively working on the fore topgallant mast. While the mast was off the ship I added the standing rigging lines to the topgallant section and the lift grommets for the toppgallant, and royal yards. The grommet for the topsail yard was also made, but will be added later after the standing rigging lines for the royal mast have been applied. I simplified how I made the lift grommets (photo 1&2) using superglue instead of solder to secure the wire to the brass thimble. Once 2 of these were made it was very simple to make the lift grommet by twisting the free end of each wire around the adjacent piece (photo 3). The upper futtock shrouds with small bullseyes were made in a similar manner (Photo. 4) Photo 4&5 show the present state of the rigging with the fore topgallant shrouds.

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