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Jared

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Everything posted by Jared

  1. Thanks as always for your recommendations George. As to making eyebolts & jackstays from thinner wire, I found a very interesting technique described by Michael Costangliola on page 177 of Ship Modeler's shop notes II that is worth looking into. See accompanying photo.
  2. I tackled the spencer jackstays on the lower main and fore masts this week, which I had been putting off for some time due to unwarranted fears of getting them right. The smallest eyebolts in the kit seemed too large to use here so I decided to make my own using the 0.22 ga. brass wire in the kit. They were then blackened and glued into small holes I drilled into the aft side of the masts. A blackened straightened section of wire was then fed through the loops and secured in a few spots with glue. See attached photos. Overall the construction was much easier than what I had feared.
  3. We are all in the same boat on this for sure. Every piece presents challenges and more than 1 try to get right.
  4. Re: "By the way, if anyone knows how to embed a more proper two column view - I'd love to know - otherwise I'll just copy/paste this sorta messy version." I use PowerPoint to create mine then do a screen capture to produce a Jpg. file to post.
  5. Another quick update. Between other summer distractions I continue to work away on the construction of the lower masts and Lower Mast platforms. The following 4 images show the recent progress. The metal plates on the platforms were cut & ground to shape from sheet brass and chemically blackened.
  6. Thanks for the heads up on the chain and other needed accessories George. Your model looks fantastic. I wish it was as easy to build as you make it look 🙂
  7. At the end of the day, with lack of any photos of the actual FF, who is to really know perfectly our models match the real deal. 😀 Best regards, Jared
  8. Just a quick update. I have completed much of the lower fire and main masts, as shown in the attached photo. I elected to construct the iron bands for these masts using my wife's business card, which had the perfect thickness (0.016"), was easily cut into 1/16" wide strips, and was smoothly bendable around the masts. They were glued to the mast using CAA gel superglue then painted over. The wooden cheeks were the shaped and mounted.m
  9. This is a great discussion. I am presently struggling with whether or not to put hoops on my solid mizzen. My gut feeling is to go with out the hoops as per the Langford plans, based on something I read in "China Tea Clippers" by George F. Campbell, a caluable resource. On page 112 Campbell writes "Whenever possible wooden lower masks were made from a single tree . . . . . The mizzen mast, being relatively small, was usually a single tree. ITS SMOOTH SURFACE WAS ALSO CONVENIENT FOR THE HOOPS OF THE SPANKER SAIL TO RIDE UP AND DOWN ON, AS ALSO THE GAFF JAWS IF SO RIGGED.
  10. I have completed the turning of all of the wider diameter masts, yards, bowsprit etc. For these I measured from the drawings their diameters at various locations and marked these to tick strips. The pieces were then turned on the Taig micro lathe. At diameters below about 0.12", the pieces had to be sanded down to their final sizes otherwise they would break.
  11. After a long absence due to travel and other distractions that get into the way of model building, I have picked up my model again and have been working on the construction of the masts and yards and bowsprit. For the fabrication of the fished fore and main masts I followed the method George (gak1965) so nicely described. I think the carving method suggested in Fig. 65 of the manual is very difficult and would have turned out terribly had I tried that. After gluing together the wood pieces making up the structure, I turned the wood on a Taig Micro Lathe II which a friend from my local shipbuilding club generously lent to me. The first photo below shows the construction of the Fore mast. The second shows the turned mizzen, main and fore masts. I have not yet started adding the metal bands or anything else on these.
  12. Today I completed one of the more challenging elements of model so far - the wood gratings that lie on the aft deck adjacent to the ship's wheel. At the scale of the kit, I thought the two suggested build techniques illustrated in the manual to be near impossible to actually do. In doing a search for possible alternative methods, I came across an interesting technique described in ModelShipBuilder (www.modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?128) which I decided to give a try. The photo below shows the finished result and two images of some of the intermediary steps I followed. It was pretty challenging as the cut parts were exceedingly small to handle and were very fragile to cut and shape.
  13. I picked up on my model again after an almost 8 month "rest" due to some travelling, etc. This week I completed and mounted several poop deck structures: bucket and racks, stack vent for stove, knee for aft cabin, and the metal railings on the Poop Cabin Roof and on the ladder to the forecastle deck. The stack vent had to be scratch built, as the metal part was missing from my kit. The metal railing on the Poop cabin roof was made by cutting pieces of brass rod (0.02") then soldering them together, using a handy Kotto Helping Hands soldering tool to hold the parts while I soldered. The railing was then bent to shape and mounted and glued into holes I drilled into the top of the poop house roof overhang. The railings on the ladder to the forecastle deck was also made from the brass rod, bent to shape.
  14. You model is looking really good. Your photos and George’s will be a great help as I attempt to get started on my masts this month.
  15. You have done an amazing job on your masts George and the wealth of valuable information you have provided will be a valuable guide to me and others. I have not made any progress on my model over past 3 months due to other activities and a honeymoon. Your work will inspire me to get going again!
  16. It would we great to see the catalogue photo. Thanks. I had no idea that the Chinese painting existed.
  17. Thanks George. I have decided to orient the boats as per the plans and Butterworth’s painting. As to how I will tie the 3 on the cabin down, I will probably deviate slightly from the plan, depending on my skills.
  18. Thanks ClipperFan. Love this photo. As an expert model maker I know told me, mounting the heavy ships boats upside down on the cabin roof makes for a lot more work to launch them. Although the boats are mounted upside down in Butterworth’s painting, I am wondering if this was really correct.
  19. I have finished scribing and painting the outside hulls of the 5 ships boats and have mounted 3 of them on top of the mid-deck cabin (see photo). The problem remains on how they should be tied down to the support racks. In the kits instructions, they seem to suggest securing them with ropes whose ends are both eye-spliced around eye bolts (see top right photo), but this begs the question of how the boats could be untied when needed. I found a more plausible design in zu Mondfeld's book (bottom right photo). Any thoughts? Thanks. Although hard to tell from my image because of the photographic angle, the top trim of the ships boats have been painted light blue, to match the trim on my model.
  20. Thanks. I had intended to paint the top trim. They were black before I rescinded the boats.
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