Stevinne

I usually use a combination of CA and carpenter's glue on the second planking. I use a small amount of ca at points to start the attachment, then a run of carpenter's glue. I run my plank shaper over the glued section once it's in place - it speeds up the drying process. Then I will use another dot of ca, some more carpenter's glue and continue the run. I find that for me, this works well, especially when I am trying to line up the planks along the curves of the bow and stern. One issue I find with CA and the second-layer is that if you get any spillover onto the exterior, it is very difficult to remove without staining the wood.
 

Chuck, Thanks for the quick and reasoned response. I hadn't realized they had been asked to stop and kept doing it nonetheless. Makes a lot more sense now.

Working on the remaining 12 pounder guns for boat decks and bridge super structures, eight in total, the four on the boat deck l used the metal etch gun shields from my second set here the remaining four l made the gun shields from paper, seemed to work quite well 👍 won’t dwell on this to much we have all seen these guns built now so shall just show photos of production 👍

Case Frame
 
The case frame members are made of 1/2” square Cherry with grooves cut with the table saw.  Grooves are centered on the face of the member and 1/8” deep.  The posts and top pane frame members have two grooves.  The bottom members one.
 

 
The bottom members have tenons cut to fit the groove.  The Burns saw is setup to cut the tenons.  Joints will be pin nailed.
 

 
The post sits on the base top and is supported on two sides by the base moulding.  
 

 
The top panel has mitre corners, that will be glued and supported with metal corner braces.  There is a cross piece across the middle.
 

 
Here the frame is dry fitted.  Next is cutting the Lexan panes.  Happy Holidays!
 


 
 

Base Frame
 
Milled the frame components from 4/4 rough Cherry.  Base moulding is 1 7/8” high, just under 1” thick.  Routed a Roman Ogee edge on the router table.  Mitre cuts were made on the table saw with an Incra fence.
 

 
Glued up the frame, square makes sure of the alignment.
 

 
Case frame will be made from 1/2” square stock.  Here is the table saw setup to cut the stock from the rough.  This picture shows cutting the 1/8” deep groove for the Lexan.
 

 
Stacked up the case components against the base moulding, 1/2” square strip on bottom under 2 short blocks representing the base, and 1/2” square grooved strip on top representing the case frame above the base.  Lucked out, stack is flush with top of base moulding.
 

 
Under the base will be 4 blocks screwed to the moulding with holes to allow screws into the base.  There are also 4 corner blocks.
 

 
To remove the tool marks, sanded the frame with a random orbital sander - 220 grit.   As before, finished the Base Frame with Howards Feed and Wax Oil and Conditioner,  Beeswax and Orange Oil.  Added felt pads to corner bottoms.
 
Here’s the model in the frame.
 


 
 
 
 
 

FINISHED!
 
Took a bit longer than anticipated but finishing the build was important to me. I can be a bit like a hummingbird with my hobby projects.
 
I didn't take pictures of the rigging process. I found the rigging frustrating. I can't imagine trying something more complex rigging-wise for quite some time. Some of the challenges are non-negotiable--like my eyesight--but having better tools and materials would probably help. I used string which I had on hand but I couldn't tell that it was any different than what was provided in the kit. Plus, mine was on a spool rather than wrapped around a card and had less kinks in it. However, my string is nylon and I found that knots slipped too easily and the thread always wanted to resume its curl. Basically, it was difficult to manipulate. I also found that the thread unraveled if I looked at it cross-eyed and once I clipped an end the thread tended to fray.
 
Tool wise... I've only got one pair of tweezers small enough for this work so last night I found myself looking at surgical needle holders on-line. I think those will help. I also need a better way to cut the string. I have a little pair of squeeze scissors but unless the string is under tension they tend to chew through the string rather than cut it. Overall, I think my rigging is pretty rough. Especially the lines attaching the sail to the spar. I keep telling myself that this is a learning project and I learned a lot!
 
What I did find very helpful is that I've got two LED lights on flex-stands that stick out over the work surface. Having the ability to hang lines from the light supports proved beneficial. I could even cut a number of lines and drag the ends through CA then drape the lines over the lights to let them dry. It kept them out of the way until needed. Same thing for my 'helping hands' with alligator clips. Just being able to keep tension on the lines by clipping them with the alligators and setting the 'hands' off to the side was helpful.
 
Anyway. I'm calling this one finished. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. It's been a (mostly) enjoyable voyage. I'd recommend this kit to others at a beginning level. I might even see if I can find some 1/72 scale Vikings to crew her!
 







 

Finished my Pot Pie Skiff.
 

I'm not familiar with either kit, but another consideration is the quality of instructions provided, which can make or break the experience when working on your first few ships. 

I'm not familiar with either kit, but another consideration is the quality of instructions provided, which can make or break the experience when working on your first few ships. 

I'm not familiar with either kit, but another consideration is the quality of instructions provided, which can make or break the experience when working on your first few ships. 

Treenail update,
 
The weather forecast has been the same here for several weeks : rain and occasional showers...
So a lot of time to drill holes and add treenails...

 
After all the treenails have been applied it is time to scrape and sand. Pieces of old Stanley knives are used for scraping.

The original and the model (picture of the original is thanks to @firdajan)

After sanding, the hull was cleaned with a wet cloth.

The starboard side is ready. 
Wales still needs to be done, probably also with treenails, and bolts??.
I sent this question to the Mary Rose museum, but no response yet

Thanks for following

I never visited the shore leave section, but this is what the description was when it opened:
"If you haven't noticed, we've added a new topic area:  Shore Leave. 
 
From the pinned posts there about it: 
 
This is the area that many wanted, and perhaps didn't even know it. If your topic is nothing to do with the world of ships or ship modelling, then here is the place to post it. General chat, Birthday announces etc.

No politics. No religion. No inflammatory topics.
 
This area can be used for things like "visits to other members",  non-nautical type vacations, basically anything anyone wants to share but with the caveat that it will be heavily monitored for taboo subjects.
 
Want to discuss cars? Airplanes?  The great vacation?  The wedding?  No problem. 
 
Lastly, we will periodically clean it out of old posts and topics.
 
This forum was created in order to cut down on the off-topic posting in our other areas of the site.  Please post everything else here and in order to preserve the model resource for all of the build logs,  techniques forums etc and make them easier to navigate and read through.    Thanks   Don't hesitate to share your experiences with all of the friends you have met through the site!!!"
While cat memes (how do you pronounce that?) weren't specifically banned, it sounds like the problem wasn't folks were posting stuff that was offensive or not what members were told the forum section would or would not accept. I also don't recall seeing any posts decrying the state of the forum. It seems just a case that what was posted was what didn't fit with someone's idea of what the forum should be. Now get those kids off my lawn!

Chuck, Thanks for the quick and reasoned response. I hadn't realized they had been asked to stop and kept doing it nonetheless. Makes a lot more sense now.

Chuck, Thanks for the quick and reasoned response. I hadn't realized they had been asked to stop and kept doing it nonetheless. Makes a lot more sense now.

I never visited the shore leave section, but this is what the description was when it opened:
"If you haven't noticed, we've added a new topic area:  Shore Leave. 
 
From the pinned posts there about it: 
 
This is the area that many wanted, and perhaps didn't even know it. If your topic is nothing to do with the world of ships or ship modelling, then here is the place to post it. General chat, Birthday announces etc.

No politics. No religion. No inflammatory topics.
 
This area can be used for things like "visits to other members",  non-nautical type vacations, basically anything anyone wants to share but with the caveat that it will be heavily monitored for taboo subjects.
 
Want to discuss cars? Airplanes?  The great vacation?  The wedding?  No problem. 
 
Lastly, we will periodically clean it out of old posts and topics.
 
This forum was created in order to cut down on the off-topic posting in our other areas of the site.  Please post everything else here and in order to preserve the model resource for all of the build logs,  techniques forums etc and make them easier to navigate and read through.    Thanks   Don't hesitate to share your experiences with all of the friends you have met through the site!!!"
While cat memes (how do you pronounce that?) weren't specifically banned, it sounds like the problem wasn't folks were posting stuff that was offensive or not what members were told the forum section would or would not accept. I also don't recall seeing any posts decrying the state of the forum. It seems just a case that what was posted was what didn't fit with someone's idea of what the forum should be. Now get those kids off my lawn!

Chuck, Thanks for the quick and reasoned response. I hadn't realized they had been asked to stop and kept doing it nonetheless. Makes a lot more sense now.

Chuck, Thanks for the quick and reasoned response. I hadn't realized they had been asked to stop and kept doing it nonetheless. Makes a lot more sense now.

Rigging
I finished the rigging yesterday and am working on the handrails. It's all done with 0.2 mm black monofilament line, which has been a pleasure to work with. It's extremely strong, doesn't kink, and glues solid with a spot of CA.

There are 4 double antennas tied to tiny triangular PE pieces. I clamped the pieces to a stick to get the two lines the same length.

Here's the rigging in all its glory. I left this photo at full resolution so you can see the lines.

The handrails comprise about 150 PE stanchions on each side of the ship threaded with three layers of monofilament line. I was dreading this task, but it's only taking about one hour per line. You can literally pull one end of the line and tighten it the entire length of the ship.

I finally made a new base for the model using purpleheart wood. The color looks good with the anti-rust color of the lower hull, and it will turn a little browner with age.

I have been converting a picture of the guns recovered from the Mary Rose to printable files using Fusion 360. The scale is about 1:20. The second picture is the result after several rebuilds and restarts. I am pretty happy with the final result. If any members would like to make use of any of these cannons for a model then let me know. Otherwise if anyone has a particular cannon they would like modelled i am open to suggestions. All i need is some drawings. The scale can be adjusted to any size. The only limitation is the 3d printer build plate size. Only stipulation is that they are not to be sold. My present project is the culverin at the Basel museum with a dragon head on the barrel.

I have given this book as a gift whenever I have given someone a ship model to get them interested in the hobby. I think it is a great introduction and something I still refer to when working on projects.

I have given this book as a gift whenever I have given someone a ship model to get them interested in the hobby. I think it is a great introduction and something I still refer to when working on projects.

I have given this book as a gift whenever I have given someone a ship model to get them interested in the hobby. I think it is a great introduction and something I still refer to when working on projects.

I have given this book as a gift whenever I have given someone a ship model to get them interested in the hobby. I think it is a great introduction and something I still refer to when working on projects.

I have given this book as a gift whenever I have given someone a ship model to get them interested in the hobby. I think it is a great introduction and something I still refer to when working on projects.

I have given this book as a gift whenever I have given someone a ship model to get them interested in the hobby. I think it is a great introduction and something I still refer to when working on projects.