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Paul Le Wol

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Everything posted by Paul Le Wol

  1. Paul Le Wol
    Thank you so much for your kind words Johann. I hope you are mending well. Paul
  2. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Gary, I’ve had that happen before on several different sites. Usually because something went wrong during the registration process and when I tried to start over I was told that the email address was already used. I would just make a new email address. You can never have too many. 🙂 Paul
  3. Paul Le Wol
    Hey SteveL, I usually post using a PC but I have made a couple of posts using an iPad. After typing the text, press Enter a couple of times to move the cursor down to where you want to insert your image(s). Insert image that you uploaded. Press enter again to move cursor down to where you want to add more text or another image. If you press enter a couple of times between inserting images you will get a space between them and it will be. easier to distinguish between them. Paul
  4. Paul Le Wol
    Hey Bob, yes it was cherry red and it went straight into the blackener that was cut with water
  5. Paul Le Wol
    Hello Everyone, thank you all for your great comments and likes. This week I was pecking away at the chain plates busily breaking drill bits on the brass strips. Spent some time reading Moonbug's "A bit of advice" thread and druxey mentioned annealing brass. So I went over to the Canadian Tire and picked up an Iroda mini butane torch. They are usually on sale over there. Had one of the smaller torches that uses a refillable butane lighter but the flimsy trigger mechanism did not last long. This one is a lot better' It made a huge difference with the drilling. After the holes were drilled in the chain plates I annealed them again but quenched them in the blackener. The finish is very durable. Been using Novacan blackener for these small parts. Got it in a stained glass shop. The owner of the shop was nice enough to try it on some brass for me before she would let me leave with it. This brass strip was a test piece. The left side was annealed and quenched in the blackener and the right side was not annealed. Did some other small parts to see how they liked the process. Still shot the chain plates with dullcote for some added protection. They are all made. Just have to install them. One last thing that was worked on were the cleats(?) in the center of the topsail yard. Getting very close to rigging. See you next week.....Paul
  6. Paul Le Wol
    Hey Bob, I think I read somewhere that perfectionists can have fun too. Looking forward to your Flirt build. Paul
  7. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Ron, thanks very much for your Likes and comments. Even though it has been fun, I think after she has been rigged I am going to have an XXL dram of scotch.
  8. Paul Le Wol
    Gentlemen, thank you very much for your comments. I guess this will work as long as Chuck keeps making his multi-part deadeyes 🙂
  9. Paul Le Wol
    Hey Cisco, very nice work on the transom, counter, and fashion pieces. I saw you were asking Andy about the metal hand screw clamps he is using. I saw them at Widget Supply in Oregon. ($6) ( widgetsupply.com) I’ve never ordered anything from them but they have a lot of neat stuff. Paul
  10. Paul Le Wol
    Hello Everyone, hope you are all well. Thank you for all of your great comments and Likes. So appreciated. This week was spent focusing on the stropping the deadeyes. Rings about 1/16 inch thick were cut from a 1/4 inch brass tube with 1/64 inch walls. After sanding them down to around 1/32 inch they were given a bit of a squeeze to make them oval. A #53 drill bit was taped to a 3/16 inch bit and the oval shaped ring was slid over them and crimped with end cutting pliers. The Syren deadeyes were then assembled as usual while installing the blackened strop in the process. They just need a little more buffing up. Between making deadeyes the boom, gaff, and yards were worked on a bit more. This week I plan on working on the chain plates. I ordered some Testors Dullcote from Sunward Hobbies to see if it helps make the blackening more durable. See you next week.....Paul
  11. Paul Le Wol
    Thanks very much Glenn. I know the feeling you’re talking about. Funny isn’t it, you’d think it would be the opposite. I guess building anything like this becomes such a big part of our lives. Paul
  12. Paul Le Wol
    Allen, thank you so much for your comment. I could not agree more about Syren products and the amount of work that Chuck has put into them. I also have to acknowledge the fact that even though the monograph is so well done, I still lean heavily on all of the build logs of the members that pioneered the building of this model. Paul Ron, thank you for your generous comments. I’m still laughing about the eating off the deck comment. Paul Bob, thank you very much. I have the feeling that eventually, there will be a cutter in your future 🙂 Paul
  13. Paul Le Wol
    Hello Everyone, thank you for stopping by, commenting and Liking. As usual I've been jumping around all over the place with Cheerful. Started the week by finishing the top mast. Used a spare truck from one of the carronade carriages for the mast cap. Painted the appropriate places black. Using Tamiya Dark Iron (X-84). Goes on very smoothly and covers well. Was using Liquitex Basics Ivory Black when painting the wales but it needed/ needs so many coats that I made the switch. Also made the tiller out of 1/8 inch cedar sheet. Not much to see there. Just lots of filing and sanding. The Elm tree pumps were remade because the iron band I tried to paint on them didn't turn out very well at all. This time I used art tape that was picked up at Staples. One of the motivations for making new pumps was the fact that there was an octagonal offcut just sitting there after shaping the topsail yard. The yards were shaped because I was on a roll after making the boom and the gaff. The jaws for the boom were cut from 1/8 inch cedar sheet. Used a piece of what I believe is #14 copper wire for the ..........horse (?). Mounted the pumps and ladders on deck Next comes the chainplates and the back stay plates. See you next week. Paul
  14. Paul Le Wol
    Hey USNCHief013107, thank you for your kind words. I think a lot of it has to do with the Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Looks nice and so easy to work with.
  15. Paul Le Wol
    Hey Everyone, hope you are all well. Thank you very much for the much appreciated Likes. This week I focused mainly on the carronades. The decision was made not to rig them with tackle. Spent a couple of hours trying to make one and it just was not happening. Once they were all mounted attention could be turned to working on the deck furniture. For some reason the winch caused me a world of pain. After disassembling and assembling it three times it finally looked ok. Here it is being test fitted. The winch was made in a similar fashion as Chuck's bowsprit step mini kit. The uprights and standards were cut as one piece from a sheet of 1/8 inch cedar sheet and then 1/32 inch strips were glued to both sides of the upright part I got out the laser and mounted the mast. Slid the mast coat on to the mast. Just put a touch of pva where it where it goes through the deck and then slid the mast coat down to the deck. Have to make the pumps and the tiller to finish the deck. This week will be the laying out of the chain plates and the backstay plates. See you next week...Paul
  16. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Everyone. I hope you are all well. Thanks to all for their encouraging likes. This week the catheads were made and installed. Put a pin in both of them after a couple of join failures. The carronade carriages were made a while ago. I had bought rope from Model Expo but as you can see it has a mind of it's own if it is not under tension. Bee's wax, heat, you name it, it would not behave. I think it got too used to being wound around the spool. Tried some rope from Crafty Sailor. It is three strand polyester. It looks good and is nice and relaxed. Because it is three stranded I wrapped it around the knob of the cascabel. A piece of a 1/8 inch thick strip was glued to the front of the carriage and then glued to the spirketing. The carriage trucks end up being about a 1/16 inch away from the spirketing. That is one complete. Still not sure about adding the tackles. Took some time to think about a display case. Picked up some extruded aluminum 1/4 round T-slot channel and tri-corner brackets thinking that it would be an easy way to make a case. Oops, who would have thought that the slots aren't continuous around the corners. Filed away some of the registration tabs to see if an acrylic panel with it's corners relieved would look alright. This product certainly isn't meant for the use I wanted it for. Might be able to figure out this case by next week. Paul .
  17. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Cisco, if you look at Chapter 3 of Chuck’s monograph for the Cheerful, it shows the planking above the wales being finished up to the sheer before any thinning of the extensions is done. In my case having the planks to support the extensions saved a lot of grief because there wasn’t a whole lot left of some of them after fairing. I also think that leaving them thick will make it easier to convince the first layer of planks to stay in place if they are not bent spot on. Looking at your photos I’m assuming that you only have the one 1/8 inch strake above the wale so far. If not then please disregard anything I’ve said 😀 Paul
  18. Paul Le Wol
    Hey ships88, you are doing a beautiful job planking the Galleon. Would it be possible to lower the hole for the rudder/ tiller so that it is below the light colored plank (wale?) . Doesn’t look like it needs much but it may mess up your rudder. Paul
  19. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Chuck, thanks for looking in and thanks for the hours of enjoyment Cheerful has brought me
  20. Paul Le Wol
    Happy New Year everyone. Thank you for the likes. They are very appreciated. This week I concentrated on the mast. Just followed the way others have done it in the past. Sorry for the poor quality of some of the pics. My lighting is questionable and the depth of field suffers. Decided to use a jig to build the trestle trees. The supports were made from 1/16 x 1/8 cedar strip. It sort of looks like a lot more work than is necessary but I found it easier to do this way. Remembered to get the mast hoops on. They look dark but the char was removed and they were rounded the way Chuck shows in Chapter 12 of the monograph. Then the cleats and the boom rest were installed. Made the boom rest like that because those tiny support wedges were not cooperating with my fingers. The mast coat was made by gluing two @ 1 inch square pieces of 1/16 inch cedar sheet together with the grain running perpendicular. Then filing and sanding for an hour. Would like to do the top mast next, then put the mast aside until the catheads and carronades are completed. See you next week.... Paul
  21. Paul Le Wol
    Hi Hakan, I remember working in a fab shop a long time ago and this guy was using the floor mounted grinder. The foreman went over and reamed him for wearing gloves while using a turning piece of machinery . That always stuck with me. Glad you are okay. Sometimes being left handed is a good thing😀
  22. Paul Le Wol
    Hello Everyone. I hope everyone had a great Christmas and will have a Happy New Year. Thanks to all of you for your likes. This week I finished installing the bowsprit. I found it easier to have the hole in the bowsprit drilled all the way through so that the steps could be slid onto the bar before the bowsprit was put into place. The steps were glued and pinned to the deck and then the upper bar was glued into place. It is very solid. The windlass was made a few months ago. Chuck's mini kit is so beautiful that I could not bring myself to paint the drum. It was positioned and then pinned to the deck without using glue. The pin rail was reinstalled. It still needed thinning down even though the pin rail was the same height as the cap rail. I think that I may have been lax when fairing the deck. Installed the rings in the deck but did not use eyebolts. Just used a hook shaped piece of wire to give it a lower profile. Don't want any tripping hazards on the deck during the heat of battle. And finally mounted the cleats on the bulwarks. See you in 22 Paul
  23. Paul Le Wol
    Hi everyone, I also had this problem last night. I tried multiple times to upload ten jpegs. Four of them induced an error. During one attempt, a file would get an error and on another attempt the same file wouldn’t get an error. Tried uploading one file at a time. Tried edited files and unedited files. All of this was tried on two different updated Windows 10 PCs. Finally ended up just using the photos that were accepted. My guess would be sunspots. 🙂
  24. Paul Le Wol
    Hey Everyone, hope that you are all well today. Thank you very much for all of your likes. This week I decided to do what I think is the last rough job before doing all of the detail work. The pin rail at the stem had to be removed to give the bowsprit the proper clearance. Just kept running a wet toothpick along the joint while attacking it with a #11 blade. It put up a little fight but nothing was destroyed. Made the bowsprit using a mini block plane and lots of sand paper. The next few hours were spent measuring and filing and sanding the hole. Finally the bowsprit was able to be positioned correctly and I could lay out the position of the bowsprit step. Now just waiting for paint to dry on the bowsprit and step before finishing. Last week I forgot to say that the waterways and scuppers were completed along with one of the pinrails. I picked up some brass belaying pins from The Crafty Sailor. These Technell parts are more nicely proportioned than most. If I don't see you before next week have a great Christmas. Paul
  25. Paul Le Wol
    Hey Patrick, you are are doing beautiful work on the galleon. Back in the 70’s I built two Billings kits. I can tell you that planking and detailing as much of the printed surfaces as possible will make a big difference to your completed ship. So I vote go for it. 👍 Hope you don’t mind me following Paul

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