Paul Le Wol

Beautiful ship Henrik, I wish you well.

Beautiful cook house Eric. I think I can already smell that brisket smoking

Superb Chris. Glad you are able to display it with the canopy open.

Hey Mango, maybe you could upload a couple more photos for people to get a look from different angles. Could it be that there is too much bend in that plank? Just throwing it out there. Perhaps try different amounts of bend to see how it affects the way the plank sits against the bulkhead

Hi Cisco, great looking scarf joints. Definitely going to have to give your Q-tip idea a try.

Hi Everyone, thank you very much for your wonderful comments and likes. At the end of the last post I had just started making new planksheers out of cherry. The kit supplied planksheer was cut into three pieces and used as a template. A piece of cherry was added to the top of the stem to bring it up to the correct height. Pieces of scrap 1/16” x 1/4” strips were glued to the planhsheer between the bulkheads to support the 1/32” basswood sub deck. I had enough basswood sheet to do part of the sub deck so I installed a bit at both ends. While waiting for more basswood the floor and the walls of the cockpit where made. Glued strips of wood together for the floor and used a template to get the proper dimensions. I was looking at shipphotographer’s excellent Glad Tidings build log and Bob Cleek noted that normally these vessels would have two drains in the cockpit as opposed to one so that’s what I went with. The strips of wood on the port and starboard walls were installed individually because of the angle. The other walls were made the same way as the floor. Got some more 1/32” sheet and continued with the sub deck. And of course had to install some planking just to break things up. Next come the hatches. Hope to see you next time.

Hi Nils, very nice sails. I really like looking at your photos. There’s always so much to discover in them.

Hi Ian, thank you very much. This boat is a lot of fun.

Hi Everyone, the planking has been completed on the pinky. Most of Belt B consisted of 1/4” planks . When I got to Belt A, I changed to 3/16” planks in order to have six strakes. The sheer strake had to have a 1/4” plank at the stern. All of the strakes were pretty much the same , tapering at both ends. No edge bending was used. The planks were tapered and then held under a running tap just enough to wet them. Then I put a curve in them using finger pressure for five or ten minutes. The planks at the stern needed a twist along their length. By that time they had dried enough to glue them in place. For some reason I would always start at the stern post and work towards midship and then do the same at the stem. All of the strakes have either two or three planks. The joints that are close to the stem and the stern are going to be faked. I would usually do one or two strakes a day and then do some sanding with 180 grit paper just so there wouldn’t be too much sanding after it was finished. This is after one big sanding. Then two big standings. There’s a couple of things that I messed up by using the 1/16” strip of wood to make the rabbet. I should have maybe taken a 1/16th of an inch off the bulkhead former to compensate for it. The stem should have been made to be level with the top of the planksheer. The planksheer ends up being 1/8” short along it’s length. Not worried about the planksheer length because they are being remade out of cherry. Got a nice order of cherry from Joe at Modeler’s Sawmill. Also added some 3/32 x 3/32 pieces of basswood strip between the bulkheads to help with the gluing of the planksheer. Next is making lots of square holes for the stanchions. See you next time.

Hi Eric, thank you very much. My aim is to try and get the planking nice enough so that it can be seen under the brushed on paint. Happy to see that you are starting a new build and log.

Hi Cisco, I forgot to mention the binder clamps. I glued two strips of wood together at the ends on both sides of the clamp. They weren’t very effective clamping this 1/16” cedar so I just use them for light duty holding.

Hi Ian, thank you very much

Hi Cisco, I‘be been using the small quick clamps. I only have three of them so I should get another pair. Probably should get a pair of Dewalts and a pair of the American Tools clamps which are smaller and get into tighter places. Used white pva where the garboard entered the rabbet. After that I used white pva to edge glue the planks and CA to glue the planks to the bulkheads. Also use CA where the planks enter the rabbet at the stem and the stern post. I‘ve been gluing three or four bulkheads at a time and clamping for ten minutes until the CA sets up. Here’s a couple of photos. Just finished Belt B today. I’ll post some “action “ shots when I start Belt A.

Hi mnl, you are correct, I made too many assumptions.

Hi Dsmith, your pinky is looking great. I just started my pinky journey but when I get to the metalwork I think I’m going to try that low temperature soldering paste. Seen lots of people use it and like it

hamilton, you built a beautiful Pinky. I’ll be referencing your build log often

Hi hamilton, thank you. I agree, the planking expansion is a very nice feature to have. The rest of the plans and documentation are very thorough. Actually the whole kit is very nicely made

Hi Everyone, The Pinky is ready to plank.The planking will be 1/16” x 1/4”. The directions suggest that you can make the wide section of the garboard and the steeler out of one piece of sheet so that’s what I did. Laid a strip of wood along the hull where the broad strake would sit in order to get an idea of how far forward the garboard would run and to get some dimensions. This is where my first oops occurs. I sanded the garboard so that it sat in the rabbet at the stern post and along the keel. I took measurements at the stern post and at bulkhead number 7. Joined the two points with a straight line and cut. This is what I ended up with. Both sides are the same so I it wasn’t a sanding error. Should have taken measurements at each bulkhead. The next strake needed some finessing to fill the gap. Been gluing scraps of wood to the backside of planks at the stern where the planks twist to keep them on the same plane. The planking looks like it’s back on track so I lined off the hull where belt C ends and used tick strips to measure the remaining two strakes in that belt. Belt C is finished so I lined off the hull for Belts B and A That is where the build is at as of today. See you next time.

Hello Everyone, I’ve been working on this build for a couple of weeks now. The plan was that if the first bit of planking went well I would start a log. After an oops or two it seems to be on track so here we go. The model is going to be of a working boat so the deck layout will be different from Glad Tidings’. I got along fairly well using Chuck’s planking tutorials and his monograph for Cheerful so I thought that I would give it another go with this build. Replaced the kit supplied wood with Alaskan Yellow Cedar from Modelers Sawmill. The basswood that came with the kit was very nice but I think the AYC is easier to work with. Glued the two halves of the bulkhead former together which ends up being 1/4” thick. Glued a strip of 1/16” x 1/8” basswood to the center of the former leaving 1/16” on either side. Then tapered from the bearding line to the basswood strip. Cut new stem, keel, and stern post from a 1/4” sheet of cedar using the kit parts as a template. Attached them to the former and then planed and sanded them to the correct profile. There are a lot of bulkheads in this kit. They are less than an inch apart. Started at the bow and cut spacer blocks as I went. Roughed in the subfloor and walls of the footwell. Because the deck layout is different, I’m not installing the deck beams and carlings as shown in the drawings. The Keel Klamper won’t fit between the bulkheads so I attached two plywood tab for it to clamp to. Going to end this post here and restart in a little while with the planking

Hi Jeff, congratulations on finishing your Lackawanna. Superb job.

Hi Mark, your question got me curious so I measured some drill bits that were bought online from a Canadian hobby shop. They are made by Excel. I used digital calipers. #71 measured to be .64mm/ .025”. Charts indicate they should be .66mm/ .026” #72 measured to be .61mm/ .024”. Charts indicate they should be. .635mm/ .025” So I guess we have to measure them no matter who makes them

Jonathon, congratulations on finishing your Nisha. It looks fantastic.

Hi Rod, great job on the planking. I have the feeling that there’ll be a few more Seguin builds coming up after people see how you accomplished this. Very nice.

Frank, your Armed Longboat is coming along great. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Hi Andrew, the PT 109 is $165 on the Dumas website.