BrianK
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Everything posted by BrianK
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Another great tip Keith! Thanks. I think I may try to integrate laced deadeyes onto a ratliner so the deadeyes, shrouds AND ratlines are done off model. Anyone have experience with that? The length would be critical since the slack would be at the top......maybe the last couple ratlines go on at the model. BrianK -
Nice work Lynn! Glad to know that is a good product. BrianK
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Beautiful Chris. The level of detail just screams patience to me on your part too! What were those naval architects thinking putting all those exposed pipes there like that anyway? 😃 BrianK
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There are also blackeners for aluminum as well as for iron and other metals. There is also green patina chemical for copper that I wonder if any boat modeller has tried..... Jax Chemical makes a bunch of different ones..... https://jaxchemical.com/ BrianK
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Lynn - not sure what happened there. If the brass parts were not real clean first or if they had a clear coat on them, I don't think they will blacken well.... BrianK
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Chris, the pipes look great! A question about using CA on them.... I get that you roll them first but with CA how do you get the edge flat along the seam without using your fingers and risking you becoming part of the piping? Is it all in the rolling? Like it needs to be in perfect shape with perfect seam before the glue gets near it? Sorry for all the questions. My inner engineer and inner novice card builder are clashing. 😃 BrianK
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chirs, how did you do the funnel ladder rungs? I don't think I could cut all those square holes with an xacto, without making a costly mistake...... BrianK
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Looks gret George! Neat trick for hiding wire strop twists. I will file that tidbit away (along with the many others you have supplied !) BrianK
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- Flying Fish
- Model Shipways
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yup saw that Keith. You mentioned it was challenging and I just wondered about an alternative for a potential future project.... anyway, back to Lynn's build. Sorry for the sidetrack.... BrianK
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Keith, I agree, alignment is definitely a challenge with punches. Light reference marks help a bit. Drawing a small crosshair with radius ticks matched to the punch. The disc cutter interests me too for this reason since it has washer cutter centering dies. Cut the inner hole, then use the centering dies to align the small cut hole for the bigger hole cut. Lynn's mast coat is essentially a washer cut..... For anything nearing an inch or bigger I am with you on your circle cutter solution. Maybe I need a better one for those smaller holes like Lynn is trying to do..... Keith this is a circle cutter question more fitting for your Tennessee build log (sorry Lynn) but I wonder if can you do gun tracks from paper or thin card thru the laser printer, then cut with the circle cutter? BrianK
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Another small circle cutting trick when working in thin/soft materials is to use either a circle punch or disc cutter. Circle punches are what leathersmiths use but they work great on cardstock too (ebay search: circle punch). I have been drooling over the swanstrom disc cutters (they make other shape cutters too) for a while..... https://www.riogrande.com/searchresults#q=disc cutter&t=products&sort=relevancy&layout=card&numberOfResults=36 There are swanstrom knock-offs available but alas, I still use punches for small circles...... =( LOL
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I agree with Keith on common minimum Forstner bit sizes. For smaller sizes I would just ensure you use tape on the wood and drill through it, cut at high speed with a really sharp bit, and don't put pressure on the drill. Let it do the drilling without extra pressure. Actually these are the rules for bigger holes in wood too. 😃 BrianK
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Sorry Cathead, just saw your earlier suggestion. Doh! BrianK
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Lynn I wonder if a tool like this is useful for getting the rake right? You might need a donut shaped buffer board to keep the tool off the bulwarks.... I like that you can see the work area below the jig too. https://garrettwade.com/product/portable-drill-guide-jig?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8_qRBhCXARIsAE2AtRYg_M3V64xemsueGJcr2ficAu1fG1PQp8f-Z_r41lY4_TZW5RxmFm8aAnYQEALw_wcB BTW, did I mention I love tools? 😃 BrianK
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Beautiful Lynn!!
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Lynn, Loving your updates. The stanchions look great. I love my NWSL chopper too and use it frequently for thin stock. I want to let you know there is a new tool in town that you and others might want to look at. It just came on the market a few weeks ago. The Canadian team at Ultimation just released their chopper called the "Slicer". The problem it solves is that its custom replaceable blades have only one chamfered side (most blades are chamfered on both sides) so you can get dead straight cuts on the stock on the straight side. It also cuts on an integrated replaceable self-healing cutting mat. I ordered mine a few days ago and will let you know how it works if you are interested..... Here is the link: I have no financial interest in the company. https://ultimation.ca/products/slicer BrianK
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Chris, I continue to be in awe of your skill. To cut such small parts so accurately is so impressive. (straight cuts on straight lines and curved cuts on curved lines sounds simple but having tried my first 1/250th scale card model I know that is easier said.....) While I continue to internally debate whether to leave the line or take the line on cuts, I am sure you are "spliting the line". 😃 I do have one question: On small parts like the sky lookouts do you hold the pieces with tweezers and paint the edges before glue and assembly? BrianK
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Well done Kevin! I got mine recently too (but I was not quite as lucky as you!). It will be a while before i get to it. Will be watching for your build! 😃 BrianK
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He just got back to me. Maybe he saw the inquiry. Seems like a miscommunication with the order. Hopefully it will be resolved. Thanks for the replies. BrianK
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Hi, does anybody have an alternate contact for Radimir at his ship details company hismodel.com? I placed an order for some Revell Kearsarge and Cutty Sark decks and one set of gun tracks from the order was missing. I have reached out a couple times to the email address we had used to communicate for the order (m_________@hism....) but for more than a week now I have not received a reply. If anybody has another email address I would appreciate it (via PM so you don't expose him to spam). If not I may have to try and cold call him in Europe via Skype. Thanks, BrianK
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Keith, this sounds promising for onboard ratlining at small scales. Are you using a straight or curved beading needle? If its the straight one, do you go through the shrouds in one continuous piercing of the shrouds or do you stop and tie anywhere? Thanks, BrianK
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Right Mark. Keith I was thinking of it possibly as a practice tool for off-boat ratline knot tieing. The teeth look to be spaced about 0.1" so in the ballpark for 1/120 scale ratlines. BrianK
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Keith, for practicing would a ratliner help? I think the smallest Model Shipways ratliner is 1/90 scale. The Zvezda (former Heller?) 1/100 Bark and Brig models have this plastic ratliner in the kits.... BrianK
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Chris that binnacle-like thingie looks perfectly round and symmetrical. I know its got to be incredibly tiny but the extreme detail keeps betraying my sense of size. You better start including that 4" diameter penny in all your photos. 😃 BrianK
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