Captain Poison

If only it was clogger but we try our best 😄
 
I've now finished milling out the rebates and then did the same on the other side of the transom pieces where the sternson joins onto them.
 
I've also bevelled my first piece which seems to have come out ok.  I found that the bevelling was quite a difficult task to do and took a lot longer than I thought it would.  I'll have a go at the three remaining parts next weekend and I'll see how they go.
 
Mark

Mark and druxey thanks very much  - I did accidentally catch one of the corners on the sander and took the tip off of the wing transom but I reckon that it'll be ok.
 
I've made a start on the next 4 transom pieces and so far so good.  These are made from 6.75mm thick wood so they are quite a lot thinner than the wing transom.  I've so far cut them out and shaped them to their outer edges.  I have also made a start on cutting the angled and stepped rebate so that they can lock onto the sternpost knee extension.
 
I think you could leave out the step if you wanted to and no one would be the wiser.  I decided to give it a go and found that it gives an extremely strong joint.  I've not shaped them yet so thats one of my next jobs.
 
Cheers Mark

Hello.
Continuation after little break.

Made a couple test pieces for the garboard strake to try to get a tight a fit as possible.

 
After these were done it was just a matter to transfer them to the strakes themselves. All in all this took about 4 hours to get two of the strakes in place.
I may have them a little thin and will need to see if this is going to cause an issue going forward.

@mbp521
Hi Brian,
thank you for your nice comment and thank you to all the others for the many LIKES.
 
Here is the continuation of my report:
I imitated the leather lining of the caps accordingly.I use real leather with a thickness of approximately 0.25 mm. I split the thinnest leather I could buy with my own device.

 

 

 

Testing samples of packaging, 1:36,the next assembly work will be handed over to Liu, and I will make a 1:48 prototype.

 

 

 
 

I received my Chapter 7 parts package and eagerly began work on it. I guess that I'm going to be the pioneer or guinea pig for this part, so here goes. I chose to paint the inboard transom first. The next task was to fit the quarter deck beams. These are laser cut, but must be cut to size. Although straightforward, care is required. I also found that the beams didn't quite fit into the deck clamp notches, so some sanding adjustment was necessary. When fitting the beams, I used a planking strip  to continually check that everything is aligned properly. The last beam against the transom is a bit tricky, but worked out all right. The last item was to add the the laser cut straps to the last beam. These tested my aging dexterity.
 
The beams are still only dry fitted to allow removal for doing the upcoming work.
 
Bob

Thanks for the likes and anticipation. This part of the progress seems very slow, but in fact because the operation of a bit more grinding, I failed three times to reach the standard. Because each plane radian changes greatly, the part clamps the difficulty, simply uses the spade knife manual repair. So it seems that surface finish is not as perfect as machine finish.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Time for a lot of sanding.

Do a little bit every day to make sure I'm making progress. Some words and sentences have to be looked up by translation software to be understood because the English descriptions on the pictures are difficult to read. And I'm used to using MM units, each of which needs to be converted and double checked. Slow down. Strive to achieve every detail can meet the requirements of the drawings. Thank you for your attention.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

Chapter 7 laser cut parts are now available.  Please remember that if you are far from needing these parts, please refrain from buying them.  I will always have more made when these are gone.  Your fellow Winnie group builders that are up to this chapter in the process will thank you.  They have been eagerly awaiting its release.  As soon as I return which is on Wednesday,  I will start making the cherry version of chapter 7.  
 
Currently having fun somewhere in Virginia......either on a mountain or under it.....next stop Alexandria.
 

 
Chuck

It's been about 2 months since we have had a posting and we are near completion so I figured I'd put up some pictures.  What remains is some
headsail halyards and downhauls, a starboard demo of how the anchor is brought aboard, the royal yard, a few backstays and ratlines.  It may sound silly but the most enjoyable task recently has been figuring how long each coil on a belaying pin should be e.g. a staysail's downhaul coils a lot more line than that staysail's halyard.
 

 

 

 

I noticed one photo had mis run lines, here’s how they are now

Rigging the yards
 
I’m coming closer to the end of my journey.
 

 
It's time to rig the yards. The first step is making the stirrups. In many kits these are removed from sheets of PE brass and drilled into the base, here I get to make them from rope, which is a bit more tricky than it might seem. I started by seizing a tight loop around a #68 bit. After experimentation I chose this bit as the tightest size for the .25 dark brown rope used for the foot rope to fit through. Too big of a loop and I’d not be able to properly position the foot ropes.
 

 
Each stirrup had to be long enough to wrap around the yard three times and be the correct length. To do this I placed a piece of parchment paper over the plans, set the length from the bottom of the yard by taping the rope to the parchment paper, then gluing it to the backside of the yard with a dip of CA applied with a straight pin. With that done I wrapped the the rope three times round using CA then cut the rope off at the bottom of the yard where it wouldn’t be seen. I stiffened the stirrups with watered down white glue. I’m sure there are better ways to do this process, but this way worked for me.
 

 
Once I had that done I seized the foot ropes to the yards. I had seized the blocks the lower and topsail yards earlier. It all worked out but was a bit trying to get the lengths right. You might note the left side of the plans, that’s the result of my knocking over the paint bottle. Fortunately the plans and my work mat were the only victims. I keep a roll of paper towels nearby, it’s not the first time I’ve wasted some paint...or glue...or whatever other liquid was nearby.
 

 

 
I made up the four brace pendants for the lower yard and raised the yard by connecting the mast and yard slings, it’s nice look. Once again I’ll note how much serving rope adds to the model - using the Syren Service-O-Matic makes this very easy to do. I also added the clue lines. These have a 3/16 block that connects to the top mast, then runs through the mast sheave, through the lower yard block and down to the deck.
 
Although I’d installed them a while ago, I did not belay any of the stays. In the photo they are folded over the peak halyard, I need the room to terminate the remaining lines to the mast and pin rail. I could have worked around them, but why. So they’ll remain up out of the way until the last steps of the rigging.
 

 
I loosely ran the lower yard fore and aft braces and lifts following the plans, again keeping the aft braces flipped up out of the way. It’s fun finding the right path for the lines. It’s a string puzzle, I enjoy sorting it all out.
 

 
I make it a point to study the rigging plans early in the build so I know where and how various blocks, eyebolts, and hooks will go and add them early. I missed this one, the bowsprit blocks which I had added a long time ago. The lower yard braces initiate at the bowsprit block, run up to the yard pendant, back trough the block and belay at the bow pin rail.  So I had to cut off and replace the blocks at the end of the bowsprit to add the tackle to the block, not super hard thanks to the Quad Hands, but a pain nonetheless.
 

 

 
And of course what rigging job would be complete without breaking something, as I did more than once, in this case the main sheet. So it’s a time-out to re-rig it back again.
 

 
I do all the rigging I can off the ship whenever I can. For the topsail yard that included the clue lines and braces. These involve very long rope runs. I somehow mis-managed my .018 light brown line and with no source to replenish it I substituted .012 line for the topsail yard brace. You can see I’ve stripped down my Quad hands into loop tying mode. Loops were seized in this tackle then tightened onto the yard keeping the long coils of line untangled, and not dipped into spilled jars of paint.
 
The topsail yard also has a sling, this one isn’t served. I also included the optional truss from .025 line for additional stability.
 

 

 
With the topsail yard hoisted with its long braces and lifts the deck seemingly is a cluttered mess, but I know each rope, there is organization to the madness. I prefer all the lines be on board at this point so I can carefully find the right and clean route through the blocks, mast and yards before belaying any of them.
 

 
Knowing where things are and where they go comes with a lot of studying and marking up the plans. I’ve completed the standing rigging so that plan is folded and put away. The plans tell you what you need to know but that doesn’t always include the route and it doesn’t resolve conflicts with other lines. It does provide a belay plan, that’s the important piece of information along with line and block placements. (I cut off portions of the plan in this photo, sorry pirates).
 

 
With the yards and their respective lines hoisted and installed its time to start belaying.  As I mentioned I moved everything aft of the mast up and out of the way, they’ll be dropped down and belayed later. The lower yard foot ropes seem short, but they match the plans, they aren’t fully pulled and dressed out in this photo. I tested mini me up there, he seemed ok with it.
 

 
Next I leveled both the lower and the topsail yard using and belaying their respective lifts (one per side of each yard for four total). I want to get that right and the yards steady before anything else, I did careful measurements between yards and use of my bubble level. With that done I next want to finish anything attached to the mast cleats, including rope coils, this includes one end of the clue lines, these can be worked from either end, the other belays to the pin rails.
 

 
With a lot of lines belayed at this point it was time to go into rope coil mode. I ended up spending a full afternoon making and placing coils. Not just because there more than are a few, but each one I made I decided I could make the next one better, probably explains why I ran short of .018 rope. I find watered down clear matte acrylic works better for coils than the watered down white glue I use for finishing belay points and seizing lines.
 

 

 

 
Everything fore of the mast is now rigged, belayed, and have rope coils in place. I like this method of coiling rope I described in an earlier post. I added coils to the unused belaying pins just to fill it up, and because I went a bit crazy making them.
 

 

 
The fore end of a cutter bowsprit is a busy place, lot of ropes descend here from the mast and belay back to the bow pin rail. maybe not frigate like, but kinda fun.
 

 

 
Finally it’s the aft stays and braces turn to be belayed I hadn’t finalized the aft lower yard brace in the photo, it was time for dinner, I went back to it later. Room to work get’s tight, not so much there are so many lines, there just isn’t much space in between them to access the belay points. My eye of a sewing needle on a stick I described a few post ago comes in handy.
 
With that the rigging of my Cheerful is complete. Next up are the anchors.
 
My thanks for the likes and the comments - as always they are very appreciated.

Tom, you would have a better chance of selling this kit if you did the following:
 
List the manufacture
List the finished size of the model
post pictures
Lastly, list where you or the kit is located aka: your geographical location.

Looking at my last post I see it was on the 21 November 2020, time flys
Most of the intervening months were spent remodelling the garden.  What started as a small deck build mushroomed into a total revamp of the outdoor areas.
Build on Winnie has been slow but productive.
I made the decision early on to limit the amount of painting, relying instead on using different timbers to highlight the beauty of Chucks design. Timber varieties would be limited to AYC, Cherry, Boxwood and Kauri.
The photos show how progress has been.
Now its onto the hair brackets.
 






 

I decided to design and make the stove before I put any more beams in position.  I just wanted to have it ready when its time to glue it in permanently.  Usually when I design new mini-kits like this I have to make five or six of them.  I got lucky and this time everything went together perfectly on the first go around.  Unfortunately I didnt take any construction photos so I am going to have to make another one anyway.
 
Maybe it will come out even better the second time around.
 
Here are some photos.   Except for a 1mm brass rod and a bit of 24 gauge black wire, this stove kit is made entirely of boxwood, yellow cedar and laser board.  The pulley is laser board for example.  The close ups are pretty brutal but on the ship it looks really nice.  It was hard to photograph a black stove so you guys can see all the details.
 

 

They moved it up to the gun deck.  It was a real mistake to have it on the lower deck.  They did the same with the pumps.  This was indicated on the original draft and other primary notations.  Its another difference between the contemporary model.   Changes shown in red....I have a few of these showing the update.
 

 
Chuck

I could buy every tool you own and come no where close to the caliber of work you do.  The latest example being your blocks, they are amazing.  The stove is incredible, as are details like the charcoal stove.
 
I hope this model ultimately will reside in a museum, a place that it can receive the admiration it deserves and viewed in person by many.
 
Well done. 

Stemson,apron,deadwood...

 

 
The following is the part of the first chapter I envision, including figurehead,

 

 
The second chapter, I think, is all square frame, cant frame (cant timber), hawse pieces,
 

Good morning.

Good morning.