Captain Poison

Hi 🙂

Anchor chain before and after nickel plating.

the stern light:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK finally the guns are all done.....I just have to make one more eyebolt per gun carriage....for the inhaul.  I always forget those until I take pictures.

 
The corresponding eyebolts and split rings were added to the bulwarks.  They were made the same as those for the gun carriages.  I used 24 gauge black wire.  The split rings were the same also using a 41 drill bit to make them.
 
There are also eyebolts/split rings on deck for the carriages which were also made the same.  BUT, if you examine the plans there are also 8 larger rings which need to be added.  I added those at this time also.   Those were made from 22 gauge wire using a #31 drill bit.  You can see I forgot the one eyebolt on the back of each carriage....so I will add those at some point.  Man that was a lot of eyebolts and split rings to make....sheesh!!

Remember that I wont be rigging them so they will look just as you see them here.  But the beauty of not rigging them means that I dont have to glue them into position permanently yet.   I will wait in case removing them makes it easier to work on the other fittings in the next chapter.  But if you are going to rig them....this would be the time.  I will rig one just to explain how I do it but then I will take it all apart...
 
Also remember that you wont be able to rig 4 of the guns yet because the eyebolts are actually located in the hanging knees.  Those will be added early in the next chapter.   So no worries there.  Check the plans for those....
 

 
And the proverbial pic leaving the camera on deck facing aft showing all the guns....Next up I will rig that one cannon for you folks and start on chapter seven.
 

Here is a sample of the drawings available. The frame layout is the only referenced document to the Thorn

I'm still here -- still making progress but at a pretty slow pace. We bought a new house so the shop has taken a back seat for a while. 
I had not noticed how long it had been since I posted anything.  The picture shows where we are today.  Nothing is glued to the deck yet and still have a lot of fitting to do with the margin planks.  We're getting there.  
  

Small update:
I got the checkered floor glued down tonight, I wanted to go with a black pattern but keep it a little more subtle so I kept the light squares just plain AYC with WOP. , I am almost
finished with the margin planks, a little bit of clean up some sanding and then off to the hatch coamings!
JJ
 

As for the development cycle, I will finish the project all the time. In order to speed up the development progress, I invited two ModelBuilders to verify the model, and I only focused on the processing of components. Secondly, the UK partner also agreed to develop the bow section first, and I expect that the work of the bow section may be completed in the second half of the year. One idea is to release the bow section first, then stern section and midsection, so that the folks won't wait too long. Then, all these section kits can become independent models or assemble four sections into a complete hull. However, if you want to make a traditional and complete POF model, you should follow the traditional Chapters method.
 
Once it can be sold, 'True Image' will  provide a sponsor link in MSW immediately. All sales outside China will be handled by 'True Image', and I will provide after-sales service.
 
Jack

Hi,
This is a validation model for kit development, and the work of hull part will begin soon. About 70% of the design has been completed. My partners will make 1:36, 1:48 and bow section respectively. All the photos from their buildlog are authorized for me to release in MSW.
 
This project started from NMM's original draught, True Image Model, a ship model studio from UK, which obtained a commercial kit license from NMM.
 


 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now there are three modelers involved in the model validation. We will complete the bow section kit first, because it is relatively simple.
 
The wood used in kit is boxwood / pear wood.
 
Welcome to pay attention to our follow-up progress.
 
Jack

I dont believe so.   Those deck beams were not as long and there wasnt a great weight on that deck with just a few guns and they were small guns also.  I have looked and looked for so many contemporary sources. Here is another model where you can clearly see there are no knees back there.
 

 

 
Chuck

The stern post and transom deadwood are attached to the keel and the angled rabbit has been cut into the stern.
 
The next step is the copper fish mending plate that is bolted into the sternpost and keel.

I added the copper mending plate McKay noted in his keel drawings. ⅘

Thanks so much for the likes folks.  
 
Finished the first belt today and I feel a certain degree of accomplishment.  There were a whole lot of highs and lows.  I decided to sand each side with 60 grit and 100 grit as I finished up the belt in case there were any major defects that might get hidden until later.  This post in particular may come off as more frustrated than I am as it will be a lot of pictures of me messing things up and then fixing them 😀.  I figure if nothing else, it will be a good reminder for me down the road of what not to do when I look back and hopefully it may be help others avoid the same pitfall.  In actuality, I can't wait to start on the 2nd belt tomorrow.
 
When I came back to work on the stern, I realize I had made a complete mess of the first couple planks as they met the tuck.   I was blind glueing them and hoping the clamp was applying enough pressure.  It was not and I realized without changing my method I was going to be in for a boatload of hurt  the closer I got to the keel and it wouldn't help my skillset much if I ever built a ship without the trim work to cover the errors.  In fact, the seam was so poor on the 2nd plank of the port belt after I sanded that I needed to splice in a little piece.  I'm not sure if it the seam will be visible yet once the trim piece gets applied, but if so, I feel comfortable that I can inlay a better patch.  
 

 
I found spiling the plank, running a fingertip of water, clamping and using the travel iron over the filler piece did a great job of bending the the plank to the necessary angle.  Previously, at this stage, I cut the plank and then attempted to glue it all at once.  This was a mess as the previous picture attests.  Simply cutting it, then clamping it into position and running the iron across it again, made a world of difference

 
I was now able to apply a tiny dot of glue on the front of the filler piece and the joint between the plank and the tuck and walked away for about 10 minutes to make sure it set up.  At that point, the plank glued down without any fuss.

 
This shot gives good visual of the dangers of blind glueing including the 2 planks directly below the wales.  Happy with the final four planks of each belt.  Just a little bit of glue cleanup necessary still.

 
After sanding, I flipped the ship over to check the run of the planks and it's pretty obvious there is a problem with the run at the bow pinching in on the port side.  I flipped it back over, ran a chisel blade behind frame W and popped the plank.  I was able to use a shim and the iron to remove the dip.  Finally, I glued in a piece of .25mm off cut from the black strake behind plank extending to the end of the 2nd belt.  It looks much thicker in the pictures than it is.  

 
Updated shots at the bow.  

 
Now that the major errors are fixed, time to get started on the second belt.  I also still have to paint the underside of the wales, but I'll probably wait until after I've finished all the heavy sanding.

 

 

 

Thank you Mort!
Overall this was a great kit, it’s too bad if they are no longer in production. The end result is a substantial model with a lot of interesting detail. Some of the directions are limited but the rigging diagrams are really quite good and complete. I’m generally happy with the result. I rolled and tied up the staysails between the masts to keep them out of the way during final rigging but kind of like the transparency so think I’ll keep them that way at least for now. 
 
 

I cut and fitted all the ledge for the deck as built so far. Nothing glued in place yet...all friction fit!
 

Thanks, guys!
 
I installed all the hanging knees, lodging knees and carlings from the aft end of the section to the forward edge of the mortar pit.  I'll add the ledges to finish this part of the deck before adding the beam arms and the rest of the deck framing.

Thanks, guys for the "likes"!
 
Here is where I am. I've got all the deck beams notched and have started installing them from aft forward. Because the beams sit in notches in the deck clamps, they can't move. Fitting the hanging and lodging knees is really finicky if you want a tight fit. I'll add the carlings and ledges and finish the deck up to the forward end of the mortar pit. That's where the hardest part of the deck starts: fitting the beam arms. I cut them generously and left them a bit thick. They are so long that I have to account for the deck camber.

I  started work on the upper deck by rubber cementing the deck beam profile templates to a sheet of 3/8" swiss pear. I used the scroll saw to cut out the beams, and sanded them smooth. Each beam is 12 scale inches square in profile!

I cut the beams slightly long and used the disk sander to sneak up on the final width. I'd like them to fit with no side- to-side play, but the fact was that due to the tumblehome of the top timbers, I had to make the final beam length a little short so they could fit into their notches on the clamps. Any side-to-side play will be taken care of by using removable shims at each end at glue up. The photos show the beams resting in place. Partial beams #4 are not yet fitted.