Captain Poison

Raising the booms - pretty much stuck to the plans. I will note that I got ahead of myself and forgot to attach the iron bands on the main boom before installing it . I thought about leaving them off completely (they aren't part of the kit instructions) but it is one detail that I (for whatever odd reason) really wanted to add. After sleeping on it I decided to use the black card in the kit to cut thin strip and glue them onto the boom while it was in place and I think they came out well. I originally was planning on using heat shrink tubing, but the card worked great.
 
Some lines I've trimmed off and others I have kept long. Since redoing a few lines I think I may trim the remaining ones "closer" but leave some length for a little while in case I need to tighten or redo anything (and do that going forward).
 

The Wood
     In all my years of building solid hull models I've never gone into a project with more and better yellow poplar than I have right now.  Some of it has been aging for a long time while other pieces are much newer.  Whether new or old it's all first class wood.  I buy my lumber from M. L. Condon Co. in White Plains, New York, and the fellow who mills my wood does a 1st class job for me.  All pieces are dressed nicely on six sides.  I always slip him $ extra for the fine job he does.  The first photo shows the yellow poplar I will use to form the hull's shape.  I have so much of the wood I shouldn't have any trouble finding stock with the perfect grain orientation.  Number two photo shows a bookshelf with plastic containers full of milled stock of various hardwoods.  In the basement I have footlockers full of various domestic and exotic hardwoods.  When you have been building models for as long as I have you accumulate a lot of wood.  I also have a goodly amount of Baltic plywood in 1/8", 1/4", and 3/4" thicknesses.

The Building Board
     To make this model I'm going to need a really flat surface for the construction templates.  I went out and purchased a 4'x8'x3/4" sheet of furniture grade Baltic birch plywood.  Oh, it's really nice stuff.  I started building the board by cutting it to 30"x5' and adding two pieces of wooden reinforcement (2 1/2"x 1 1/2") that run the length of the board.  Four adjustable, felt bottom feet were also added.  After I did that I applied two coats of polyurethane to the board.  When completely dry tomorrow I will lightly sand with 220 grit sandpaper and then draw the station lines on the surface.  After they get put on I will apply another 3 coats of polyurethane over them.   The 5th building board photo shows the small heater I use to help dry the polyurethane.  I swing the board around 180 degrees every hour.  When the last coat of polyurethane has been applied to the top surface of the board I turn it over and do the bottom.  This is to seal the underside from any moisture absorption that might warp the board.  The next step will be to align and drill the holes for the small wooden pieces that press against the ship's keel to hold it steady.
 
 



 
 

Hello, 
after a short break, I'm continuing with the ratlines on the port side of the foremast shrouds.

 

The ratlines of the formast shrouds have been completed in the meantime, as can be seen on the following pictures.

 

@Dowmer
Hello,
thank you very much for your positive comment.
Also for the many LIKES I would like to thank you all very much.
 
Four years have passed again !

🎄 The shipwright (thats me) and the crew wish you all a merry Christmas, a happy new year and stay sound in this complicated time. 🎄

Hello,
the bits and gallows for the main mast are ready. I changed also the sprouts of the elm tree pumps. 
 

 

 

 

 
And here some pictures from the gun deck

 

 

 
 

Fitting the riders and cutting the top timbers to allow the upper and lower mortar pit clamps to fit was a real bear of a job. I spent more than 10 hours on this part of the build! The fit of the rider top timbers against the clamps isn't as tight as I'd like, but much of the detail will be obscured by the deck framing. The clamps are sitting in place, ready to be installed permanently.

You want to make another one!!!!   🤣  LOL
 
Truth be told....I almost chose Minerva instead.   But Winnie won out because of the wealth of primary source info.
 
By the way....the Minerva is also another 5th rate with just 3 lids aft and just one up at the bow.  Look closely at that forward lid.....note how the lid curves like the bow.   You need to pre-bend those little pieces before you make the lid.  Although not that much as I suspect that lid is curved even more due to age and warp.
 

No solder-easy-brass working gun port hinges.....
 
So I like to get the port lids done early before I put the cannons in.  The main reason is that I build the lids within their respective openings.  This would be impossible after the cannon are in place.  This is something you guys can do at anytime and you dont have to wait for chapter 5.  You guys probably have all the materials to get these lids done.
 
So first the lids...
 
I think someone may have asked this question a while ago.  But you know how you see a port lid on a contemporary model and it isnt just a flat square but actually is conformed to the shape of the hull.  A port lid can be curved which is something you rarely see on a kit model.  Fortunately for us the lids arent that extremely shaped.  But the one at the bow will need to have each layer or strake of the lid pre-bent just like the hull planking.
 
To explain....you must keep the run of the hull planking in each port lid.  Thus it is best to use 1/4" x 3/64" strips to build the lid up.  In the photo below you can see how I cut the first two strakes and trimmed them so they fit tight in the port opening.  Then I glue them together edgewise right in the port opening.  I do simulate the seam between each segment with a pencil just like we did when planking.  The last piece for this lid is sitting on top of the sheer rail.

With the lid glued up I remove it and sand the outside and inside surface smooth.  Dont do this while its in position because you will screw up the finish on the hull planking.  It will be hard to get the finish to match in the area you recently sanded.  Then there is the matter of the second inboard layer or the lid lining.   This is done with strips too....or you could just cut one piece that fits.  In the case of the lining it is 1/32" thick.  Its cut to shape so a rabbet is left on the bottom and the sides.   To finish it up paint the inboard side red along with the edges of the port lid.
 

Then put it back in position on the model....make sure it still fits nice.  Apply a finish of wipe on poly to the outboard side.  In some cases the frieze will need to be added as well.  Just like hanging wallpaper, you must match the pattern.

Making the port lid hinges...
 
There are many advantages to making brass hinges from scratch.  Mostly because the photoetch ones available are either shaped funny or two wide.  They just never look right to my eye.  So here is how I make them.  You will need a brass strip 1/16" wide and 1/64" thick.  K&S used to sell these.   These wont be supplied by me so this is something you have to get.  You can cut strips from a brass sheet if needed as well.  Looking at the photo from top to bottom....some finished hinges on top

Then step one....on the top of the lineup...
 
The first thing I do is drill a hole through the end of the brass strip.  Use a #74 drill bit.   Then I round off the end around that hole which will become the bottom of the hinge.
 
Step 2...Using a flat file, I file a tapered angle into the strap just above the drilled hole.   You dont have to file too deep.  Just enough to make a gradual taper in the hinge.  Then I round off the end so it looks like a small circle on the bottom of the hinge around the hole.  This step is also optional.  You can go with a straight hinge that just has the bottom rounded.  Its up to you.  But I think these look nicer.
 
Step 3...Measure the length of the hinge by using the plans.   Mark this on the brass strip.  Now its time to file a little tail into the top end of the hinge.  This is easy enough.  Using a flat needle file just file half of the width of the brass strip away.  This resulting tail should be about 5/32" long.
 
Step 4...Use a needle nose to roll up the tail to make a loop.  Just like you do when you are making an eye bolt.  Make the resulting hole in this pretty small so a 24 gauge wire can snugly fit into it....more on that later.  But here is the real trick to this.  Before you bend that tail into a loop, file the tail down even thinner.  Just the tail.  This makes it easier to get a nice small loop on the top of the hinge.  It also keeps the finished hinge from looking to too bulky and chunky.  Hope that makes sense.  Thats it......repeat to make 20 hinges.   But remember to make left and right pairs.   Each lid gets a left and a right as you will see in the photos.  It just means make the loop in the tail in the other direction on the top of the hinge.  Blacken all of the hinges when you are done.

Now in the photo above...with the port lid in position, You can glue the hinges to the lid.   Try and keep them even.  Try and keep them the same height etc.
 
Then remove the lid as shown below.  This is where you will drill a hole into the lid through the hole you made in each hinge.  I had made the very tiny eyebolts with 28 gauge black wire.  On these I added split rings that I made from 24 gauge black wire.  I made the split rings by wrapping the wire around the shank of a #50 drill bit.  Then I sawed them down the shank to part off nice split rings all to a very uniform size.   These split rings were carefully inserted into the tiny eyebolts I made and were ready to glue into the holes in the bottom ends of the hinges.  I was careful not to drill through the lid or push the tail of the eyebolts through the lids.  I didnt want them breaking through to the inboard side.
 
Lastly....create some tiny "L" shapes from 24 gauge wire which will be used to secure the lids in position.   But before you place them into the hinge straps.....place the lid back in the port opening so you can drill the holes where those little "L's" will go.   Drill the holes close to the hinge straps.  Note the left and right hinge straps on the lid.   This is done so the little "L's" are both on the inside.  Then you lid will never fall off after you glue it on the hull.

Here is a photo of the lids done on the starboard side.   I will keep them closed until I am ready to add the cannon to avoid damaging them.  Now to repeat this on the other side.  Any questions....I dont think I forgot anything.  That was a lot to write in one post!!!

Thank you guys for all likes and nice comments.
The next task on the gundeck were trunks (or chests?).

Thanks Mark and Sjors. Sjors I've been following your Flirt and you're doing a great job on her! Also thanks for the likes.
 
On to planking the deck. I planked her using pear wood. No big surprises, just follow Chucks directions!
 
Here you can see the start of laying the first center line plank and the the filling in between the hatches etc.
 

 

 

 
Then came the tabs around the hatches. You can see how I started figuring the cuts and just kept making small cuts and sanding until a tight fit was obtained. More pieces than I care to count went into the waste bin!
 

 
 
 
Here all the tabs have been completed. Planking the remaining deck came next.
 

 

 
 

 
First coat of wipe on poly going on. Brings out the colors nicely.
 

 
 
 

 

 

 
Whew that was a lot of fun!
 
 

Used a hardwood template to start curving the aft floor planks. This worked pretty good. Next time i will use a temporary  block in the center to place the first curved plank. Time solves every problem if you just give it a chance. 
 
painted the bitts red as in the 3D file.
 
will be working on the model until the 18th then off to Tobago for 2 week holiday.

Proceeding nicely.

Just the last two deck strakes to install. Thank goodness the deck covers up my inaccurate carlins. This will not happen on the main deck. One of the main reasons for installing the full deck is to learn from my mistakes and make sure when i lay the main deck it will not have these errors in it. Experience is the best teacher. I have learned so much. This build is the best teaching course one could attend in model building. I am so appreciative of the time David and Greg put into this practicum. 

The pinnace or barge for the winnie will be a project unto itself.   A true mini kit.   It will be fairly large with plenty of detail.  It will be stored on spare topmasts in the waist like this contemporary model.    Only one boat as I dont want them to completely take attention away from the other parts of the model.   With more boats your eye tends to focus and stay right there.....
 
Having one super detailed barge will really add to the model.   It will be around 8" long give or take.  The plan and draft for this complex mini-kit is already underway!!!!
 

Good morning and thanks to all, some photos of the rudder....
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.
 

You do have to look extra hard for contemporary hull models that show guns.  But they are out there.  Here is my favorite.  Its Amazon....not one instance of rope on this model.   Again this isnt meant to discourage any of you guys from adding those details but I do want to explain why I am doing what I am with my model.   Its really my best attempt at a homage to the old time builders.  It was a widely accepted practice to not show a lick of rope unless the model was fully masted and rigged.  Not even on the bumpkins shown at the bow or hammock cranes or ship's wheel.
 

Getting close to finishing up chapter 3, have a few loose ends to clean up and some moulding to fix, But here’s some fresh updates still showing wet WOP.
JJ
 

Have you seen this scratch build log?  His first post mentions buy the plans but I have no idea how accurate they are.
   

You can do that of course but they will stay open without them.  Another interesting discussion is the fact that many or even most contemporary models that are not fully rigged,  are completely without any rigging at all.  Not a single rope of any kind on any of them.  Most dont even show the cannon not to mention that the guns are rarely rigged.  But in present times, builders have a kitchen sink approach which is fine and I fully expect most to show fully rigged cannon...ships wheel...and even port lids.  
 
Having said that,  I will not be showing the lids rigged.  Its too much for my tastes.  I am still on the fence with regard to rigging the cannon etc.  I will post a few pictures that will show contemporary practice.  Its also good to leave some small details up to each builder so they can make their own models more unique...so builders choice!
 
But I am still on the fence if I want to follow the common contemporary practice......to me it just looks so nice and less cluttered.  Although I will at least fully rig one cannon to show folks how its done and then if I decide otherwise....remove it all.   I know it seems crazy.  But as many of you are aware, for me....my Winnie model will be my best attempt to build a POB version "or homage" to the most beautiful Contemporary hull models.    With the end goal being if set side by side any of them my model might hold up beside some of them shown below.   
 
The first examples are of Winnie.