Oldsalt1950
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Everything posted by Oldsalt1950
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To borrow a tried-and-true Navy term "BOHICA", and I have the T-shirt to prove it. -
I had to laugh at myself for the going the wrong side of the bulkhead mark and doing the portside backwards episode. Like the Amish say "The hurrier I go, the behinder I get." Lesson learned, slow down and pay attention to detail. Jim
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Spent part of yesterday and today making and remaking the gun ports. Still haven't finished and need to decide how I will handle the oar ports. The process itself is not all that complicated. Measure the space between bulkheads for the horizontal members and cut and sand to fit. Measure the vertical members and cut and sand to fit. Measure and mark height of lower sill on all bulkheads. Install gunports. Easy enough. I on the other hand installed the sills the wrong side of the bulkhead mark. Tear them out and redo. Okay now the sill is at the right height time to install the vertical members, carefully set them in place making sure they are not leaning in one direction or the other. I'm taking my measurements off the drawing so what can possibly go wrong? I'm working on the port side and forget that everything is reversed as the drawing is of the starboard side. Once again tear things apart. So now I've wasted over half a day and have half the gunports assembled. Halted construction for today. I'm now trying to determine how to best handle the stern quarter window as the kit casting looks terrible. Also have to determine how to best do the 4 sheaves that are mounted in the bulkhead. Once all of that is done it is on the planking the hull.
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Looking good Jared. You'll be back to sanding soon enough. Seems there is always something that needs sanding. Will follow your build with interest. Jim
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Glomar the scribe line is the line imprinted on the bulkhead. Jim
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Dave, not enough difference in gauge to bother about. As for making rings, not to hard to do. Find a dowel or other circular object the size you need wrap the wire around it and then clip off the wire and close the loop with some needle nose pliers. You can either solder or glue the ends of the ring together. Jim
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Glomar. nice start. When fairing use the longest plank you can. You should be checking as many bulkheads as possible, gentle curves included. Stop your hull fairing at the end of part 24. The rest is the transom area and is handled differently. Leave your hull planks at the stern long. the transom area planking will butt up with it. When I fair my bulkheads, I taper/bevel them from the scribe line to the back of the bulkhead when moving aft. When going from the stern forward the bevel goes the other way, so it is from the scribe line to the forward edge.Take your time , don't rush. When you start planking small issues can be sanded out or shimmed to make corrections. Jim
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Arthur before you put yourself in A rough spot click on Articles Database at the top of the page, then scroll down to Framing and Planking. Everything you need to know short of how to fair the framing bulkheads is there to complete the hull. Swift is a great kit to start with, you'll learn all the basics and can have some fun along the way. Jim
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Really starting to take shape now. Will you be adding sails?
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Today's progress was better than expected. Knightshead and Timberhead installed along with Forecastle Coverboard. Placed steamed Waterway timber in place to bend B to I . Will have to make a series of cuts to bend Waterway timber from bulkhead B to stem post. Also have to construct Hauser scupper before doing upper planking. It is not mentioned in the building instructions but shows on plans. Today is in the books.
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Looks like I'll be ordering some cannons myself. Those look great.
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Have been going over building logs and the plans before proceeding on the rest of Stage 'A' of the building plan. There are a number of items left to finish Knightshead &Timberhead install, Covering boards for forecastle, Gunport framing, Forecastle and Quarterdeck breast beam and the Waterway. In addition to that I've added Poopdeck removable bulkhead which isn't really mentioned in the plans, planking the upper hull to the deck line and removing the fillers in bulkheads A-C, I-L. That should take most of if not all the weekend or more. Then it is on to checking the fairing again, installing the gabbard and whales and marking the bulkheads for planking.
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The MS model of the Rattlesnake calls for .040 dia Manila Hemp line.
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Welcome aboard. It looks like almost everything except the rigging has been done. When you inherited the ship, where there any scrap pieces of wood included like the sheets the parts came out of. If so, it has the model number printed on them. We can use that to determine who the kit manufacturer is.
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Allanyed, very true. One could also use polyester as that is another option. What I was getting at is no one really looks at the totality of what is used to construct our models and how the various components interact and can cause degradation. Wood has a PH and off gases, glues have a Ph and off gas, paint, varnish, shellac, poly all have a Ph and off gas. It all contributes to the issue we have with preserving what we've built. Unfortunately, to run the tests to see what is really causing the issue is cost prohibitive for what is deemed a hobby. Jim
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SUBaron, you've hit on the crux of the problem. We have no way of measuring how other environmental inputs contribute to the degradation. Since it would be cost prohibitive to engage in testing to find out, we will never know. Jim
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SUBaron, exactly! By the time any of it matters, we will all be long gone. Jim
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SUBaron, it is an interesting discussion, but misses a lot of other factors that play into preserving and protecting the finished product. I just added to that discussion posting what I know from my vast storehouse of somewhat useless information that most people don't care about. : )
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Interesting discussion, but I think you are looking at the wrong picture. Acidity or lack of it, i.e., going either side of Ph7 which is neutral will invite some kind of degradation. You also need to add in the factors of airborne pollutants. Then factor in the time period that it takes before any noticeable effects become seen. It takes a long time for this to occur. Everything we use to construct our models off gases. It is just how things work. What these gases are and how they affect the materials we use to construct our models is an unknown, and we really need not concern ourselves over it. The reason a case for our finished models should not be airtight is like a house, some circulation is required. Without it certain gases build up and the air also become stale and retains unwanted odors. Use whatever wax product you wish, it all evens out in the end, and eliminates those fuzzies .
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Glomar, take your time with the fairing, start at the deck line and follow the curve along the deck this will get you started. I see there are bevel marks on your bulkheads, so follow those to establish your curve. You also have a sub-deck whose curve you can follow to establish your fairing curve at that point. just take it a little at a time and all will be good. fairing looks more intimidating than it really is. Remember to check your progress as you go. Jim
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I may be forced to go that route myself. I don't want to hold up the build over the transom decoration.
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The dreaded bearding line always causes a little bit of distress. Since you have an actual keel to add to the bulkhead frame it is a little easier to do. I draw out the bearding line from stem to stern, and sand it by hand rather than use a Dremel. It takes a little longer, but you have much more control. Some use and Exacto knife and chisel. Find the method that works best for you and stick with it. Jim
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Having spent much time on Navy ships, and my fair share of time repainting "Haze Grey", non=skid and a variety of other leaded paints let me say this. You will never get a match as no two ships were exactly the same shade of grey. Weather and sea salt do a number on the paint and how it looks. Add to this that depending on the Boatswains mate who ran the paint locker, all the paints were adulterated a bit by combining used cans of paint. Take for example 'White striping", it was never pure white paint on any of the ships I served on. The Boatswains mates always mixed a little blue paint in with it, the amount of course based on the SWAG principle. Jim
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Gun Port Yellow?
Oldsalt1950 replied to Dave_E's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
There are many good acrylic paints on the market, and if you are lucky a local store will carry some of them. I have a "Michael's" close by so I can just pop on over and look at the various colors and brands and pick and choose. A tube of Grumbach's only runs about $8.00 and will last through more builds than I'll be capable of during my lifetime, unless of course I apply it with a trowel. Jim -
Thanks Cathead. I knew they could move things using existing rigging, just couldn't put the picture together. Jim
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