Oldsalt1950
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Everything posted by Oldsalt1950
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I've been going over the various build logs and the plans. Have decided that I need to replace most of the lumber and fittings that came with the kit. Constructing the gunport frames is what led to this decision. Now it is a waiting game on having the money for what I need. I'm looking at using Alaskan Yellow Cedar for most of the lumber, and square stock Pear for the masts. Fittings such as deadeyes and blocks will be boxwood and a lot of Syren rope. -
After a long delay and much research, I'll be getting back to the Albatros. Deck furniture will be different than what the kit suggests, and I will need to place an order for wood and fittings. While I'm waiting for that , I am stripping off everything above the deck. Will smooth out the results of the de-construction, and layout the new deck plan. You may ask why I'm doing this, and I can only say that there is no standard for a "Baltimore Clipper" . No builder ever made the same ship twice, they were all individuals. Some even changed names every time they hit port. When they outlived their usefulness many were purposely sunk or scuttled. Once I finalize everything and have the materials needed I'll post pictures.
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Masts and spars, and what colors they are is pretty much an "I think I'll go with this ", for that time period. I never subscribed to the they didn't use white because it could be seen theory. They use a grey to green color now and you can spot a mast as soon as it pokes over the horizon. A ship with sails would be real easy unless of course it is foggy. Jim
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Looking good. I'll just stand in the back and watch.
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You are in the home stretch now, she looks real good.
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Glenn, what Dave is refering to is known as a "deadeye claw" . It is two pieces of wire twisted and soldered together and used to keep the deadeyes spaced properly while you are setting your shroud line length up and seizing it. Once the line is seized around the upper deadeye, the claw is removed and you can than rig the deadeye. It will look like an 'X' with legs on the ends
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Dave, for LN it is a little late but pick up a book or two on rigging. Lennarth Petersson has two one on Fore and aft craft and another on period ship models. James Lees, "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625- 1860" is also a great reference. You will get this done it sometimes just takes additional tools and eyes to help. Jim
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- Amati
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In the scheme of things 1000pounds for a kit or $1238 U.S is not really out of line for the quality of your kits. As time goes on for those in our hobby and skills progress, builds get more complex and detailed. Some of us cannot scratch build so a kit is our only choice. I for one am in that boat being as I live in an apartment complex. I also know that if I get a kit from one of the major manufacturers i will be replacing various parts of the kit which adds to the cost of the build. Rope and wood alone can run into the hundreds of dollars on some kits, then there is replacing the castings that are sub-par, one can figure a few hundred for cannons alone on a large ship. By the time one is done it would be wiser and more economical to purchase one of your kits or one of Chuck Passaro's offerings and get everything from a source know for high quality and attention to detail. It also comes with the added benefit of being able to query you if we run into problems on the build. As to your possibly offering a U.S. ship that would just be icing on the cake for those of us in the states.
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We are blessed here to have two great designer/manufacturers of ships to build in Chris and Chuck Passaro. Their kits are not inexpensive, but the quality is magnitudes ahead of the rest of the competition. When you buy from them you aren't going to the additional trouble of discarding and buying additional bits and pieces to replace the sub-par bits. which bring the cost of the less expensive kit up. Replacing castings and rope to get a really nice build adds up and you are also left waiting for materials to be delivered. With Chris and Chuck we get to see the build of the ship in question, and can determine from what we see if the build will be what we really want. We also have the luxury of being able to interact with the designer/manufacturer directly to get questions answered. Try doing that with the big manufacturers!
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Do you have a suit of armor in the closet??
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The price will not be a problem, space for the finished ship, and the time for building it will.
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Figure it will be about 2/3 of a month's military pension for me.
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I guess I should start saving up my pieces of eight for the release date.
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Phil, it is conjecture that the first Union Jack had the rattlesnake and: "Don't tread on me" on it. What is known is it had 13 alternating stripes of red and white first adopted in 1776. It changed to a blue field and a star for each state/colony in 1777 and has been updated when each state joined the union. The :Rattlesnake" jack was first flown in modern times for the Bi-Centennial and again during the War on Terror 2002 - 2019.
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Nice work Phil, and the thinking ahead with the extra ring bolts is genius.
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That's a lot of progress and looks fine. If you want to go to the trouble, you could move the bulkhead door provided of course you used wood glue to mount it. That would solve the cannon dilemma. A Q-tip some isopropyl alcohol and it will loosen the glue for removal. Just a thought, but you may think it worth pursuing.
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Exceptionally nice work on the bow sprit. This coupled with your new and much improve rigging plan should make for an extraordinary ship model.
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She is looking good Cisco. Just take your time. Remember this is a hobby and supposed to be fun. There are no time deadlines.
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Nice work Phil. Much better than the kit supplied stock.
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Looking real sharp, David.
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She looks good. I'll try to answer some of your questions. Deck - I'd put a clear coat finish on it not stain. Polyurethane is an option comes in satin and dead flat will not yellow. Copper Plates - I'd leave them as is, the plating looks like that of a ship with some age. Ship's Boat - Do some research and see if you can find drawings of ships in this class that show the ship's boat stored. Over the capstan is do-able, but it will be sitting pretty high. Stand - the cradle the ship sits in right now is not that bad. A little stain and it would look real sharp with a nameplate on it. Cannons - here you can either go with the kit supplied or purchase after market it depends on your preference If the Admiral is going to New York, and you have some parts you really want to finish the build, I'd have them sent to your son's address there and she can bring them back when she returns. Jim
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Dave, I'd use some wire and CA glue. Wrap the wire around the block then twist together then around the yard and glue. When cured snip of the excess and paint.
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- Amati
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Every build is a learning experience. New tactics, new tools, new skills.
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Progress on the Rattlesnake has been painfully slow, nothing of note to show, but I did make some new jigs to build gunports. I have one to glue up the ports themselves and keep everything square and another so i will have a consistent reveal around the open ports. Now to build the ports and mount them so I can get on with planking and get the semblance of a ship on the building ways. I'm getting tired of seeing a skeleton every time I look at the workbench.
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