moreplovac

Thank you.

On the way to HD 🙂

Very nice progress...

Just wondering what type of saw blade are you using on your table saw? I have a DeWalt table saw would like to use for these type of cuts..

Thanks

Final stretch of this interesting model or what we, soccer (or football) fan, would be saying, going into the 90th minute of the game...

Finishing up lower yard construction... after shape it on mini lathe...

a layer of flat black paint and varnish..

... with all blocks and brace pedants attached...

Brace pedants in process..

Blocks for inner and outer jib halliards were assembled and attached to the correct spot.

A bit of a process of making a inner jib downhaul. Was not quite sure how to made this one, so after research and checking out some other modelers pictures, ended up doing it like this:

The tan rope was glued to one end of the block and black rope was tighten around the block and tan rope. Then tan rope was seized in the usual way..

Happy modeling...

Happy New Year to all fellow modelers.

Work on a lower yard halliards started by making a sling  using a simple setup:

To avoid making a knots, i used two small weight hooked up to rope ends. The rope was twisted twisted around the other rope and small amount of CA was put on the seizing. 

The end result:

Attaching it to the main mast was a bit of a tricky game, but successful..

Then the lower yard was erected...

Happy modeling...

Continuing with rigging work...

A bit of a challenge finding correct spot to finish up the rigging lines since, for my taste, the kit should be providing more clearer instruction. On the flip side, this forces me to do a bit of a research which is not bad thing at all...

In the process i noticed the wrongly finished topsail yard lift rope so i need to correct that. Should have enough line left for this correction.

And Spartan warrior is still here, making sure all is done to the standards...

Happy modeling.

Rigging for yards continue.. It is very tedious work but for some weird reason i like it...

The yard mounted and fixed with a piece of scotch tape, so it will keep its position while rigging work is in progress.

The rigging was fixed with a hook, to the place on the deck. A small amount of rope coil rope was attached as well. For all rigging of this type, tan rope in .008mm diameter was used.

Preparation of 2mm single blocks that will be attached to the topmast and will hold a rope for a lift...

End for all rope were freeze with cyano glue in effort to drive them thru the blocks easily.. the small weight were attached to the end of lifts to make them straight and diluted white glue was applied to all ropes. This should prevent ropes to have a "hanging" effect..

My apologize for distracting background on some pictures; still need to clean up workshop from previous projects...

Happy modeling...

After a while, back in the shipyard...

Continue with rigging, i had to color the tan rope, only one i had available in my yard.. The rope was dropped into diluted black tint.

After few minutes the rope was colored to satisfactory shade and ready for use after drying thru the bounty paper.

The rope was used to make brace pendants, .008mm rope with 2.5mm single block. Attached to the yard they looked very nice.

The hole that will host the lift rope for topsail yard was a bit of a challenge to make since there were tons of other ropes on the way..

Zooming the completed hole by iphone was also a challenge but managed...

The work continued attaching the rope that will assist lifting the yard...

Here is setup for making it attached to the yard:

The completed rope:

Ropes will not look tight enough so i used a bit of diluted white glue, that was put on a rope with an old brush. Small home made weight was used to keep the rope straight during the process.

So, that was all for today..

Happy modeling.

Hi all

i did not forget about my Sultana; just wrapping up some work around the house before rain season starts...

Happy modeling.

Did not quite like how blocks ended up so i made them again; removed from yard, and seized them into a bit more nicely manner.

I did not have enough black rope so i used tan rope that was colored in black. First time using this technique and so far looks nice.

and on the yard.

Happy modeling.

Lower yard construction continued by rigging blocks to yard already tapered. A 3 mm double block was lashed to the center of the yard following a kit supplied instructions.. This one will be used for a halliard.

Two single blocks were seized together and placed on the ends of the yard arms. I am not quite happy with end results so need to do a bit of research to find a useful process of seizing two blocks together. Suggestions appreciated.

Single double block seizing process..

Sling for the lower yard halliards was also made, following practicum for proper dimensions..

and attached to the ship, with a bit of a weight to make it fit correctly..

On above picture the block is facing outwards but it was actually positioned properly after. The area is very populated so extra care is advisable while working..

Happy modeling.

Haven't been to active these days; work related tasks are keeping me away from hobby... Hopefully back to shipyard soon...

On 7/23/2019 at 10:00 AM, Overworked724 said:

Looking good!!!

Thanks, getting there..

The work on rigging continues... Today i started on topsail yards.. First, a layer of vanishing was applied on all three yards, so i don't forget it as i did with main and fore gaff. The peak downhaul tan rope was run through the 2.5mm single block that was seized on the tip of the gaff. The line was brought down to the mast cleat and finished with a rope coil. That area is very crowded with all details in place so people with big hands like me have to pay special attention not to break something...

Then i worked on rigging those tiny 2.5mm blocks that will be seized on the tip of topsail yards.

All topsail yards were completed before, by running them on my mini lathe and tips are finished by hand since they are fairly fragile. Then the fun begun with cleats. I have tried to shape them from a small piece of wood. Partially successful by holding them in tweezers so i can follow shape from the plan... Partially successful because, during building process and moving them to better position the file, they simply flew from tweezers.. Somewhere.

So another approach was taken. The small piece of wood was filled in concave shape so it can fit snugly to the yard and glued to the yard. Then the shape was taken from the plan and transferred to the wood.

A bit of carving took place..

Then three holes were drilled to assist with carving..

And the end result..

The layer of black paint and varnish was applied. The same will be done for two other yards.

Happy modeling.

21 hours ago, Bob Cleek said:

have a planer,

I will definitely try this approach, never thought about it..

Appreciated,

Cheers

22 hours ago, bruce d said:

Have you seen this thread?

No, thanks for a link, appreciated. I think i got the idea how to do it to save wood, saw and fingers..

3 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

I think you can use the same technique shown in this video    Even tho he is using a horizontal  bandsaw I think the same technique can be used with a vertical bandsaw, especially since your logs are only 12 inches long and 3 inches in diameter. 

Thanks, appreciated. I will try to do it with my saw but most likely will try to find someone local with more powerful saw...

Thanks again.

2 hours ago, Jaager said:

Black Cherry is useful for most everything.  The color would be a bit eccentric for spars and deck planking.  But frames timbers, beams, hull planking, bits,  a lot of antebellum merchantmen seemed to have clear finish Spanish Mahogany for hatch coming and similar trim and when oxidized - time - Black Cherry is an excellent miniature replication.   If you have Sweet Cherry,  the color is a lot less red, but the grain is about the same.

 

Now milling from logs is a different thing.  To reduce checking and splits during the drying process,  it is imperative that the cut ends and branch cuts be sealed.  The last thing I used for this is left over latex enamel paint and used paper towels to glob on a thick coat.  Anything liquid, which when dry blocks water.

3 inch logs on a 9" band saw - too thick - both for clearance and motor power.  Find a local wood workers club and team up with someone with a larger band saw.  Buy your own blade to fit his saw.  Get a bimetal blade - initial cost is higher - all steel blades dull quickly and break when pushed when dull.

 

You need two perpendicular cuts.  A log wants to roll.  A 1/2" thick board - edge against the fence - riding on the table - Use right angle framing braces and long #10 or so screws to fix the log to this 1/2" carrier.  After the first cut, the cut face goes on the board - After the second cut, the carrier is no longer needed.  

I do 1:60 scale POF - 2 inch thick billets are working well foe me now.  At least 2 years drying time for this.

Thank you very much for detailed replay, really appreciated. I think i will try to find some local woodworker, dont want to overuse my saw..

I believe it is a Sweet Cherry judging by your explanation.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

Hello, apologies if this is not correct forum for this type of question. I have a pile of cherry logs, app 3in in diameter and about foot long. I would like to mill it so i can use it in model building. I do have a 9in wood band saw, mini table saw, a planer and "normal" table saw. Logs still have a bark on it and they went thru some "drying" process laying on the floor in my shop.

I am not sure how to attack it to get the most of it for ship building so any suggestion/how-tos will be much appreciated.

Also, any recommendation in which stage of ship modelling i can use this type of wood (deck planking, deck furniture, etc) would be appreciated.

Thanks...

Work on fore gaff continues...

To stiffen the line and to have it look tighten, i diluted white glue 1 part glue 8 part water, using a brush i put some amount of watered glue to the line. Home made weight was connected with a piece of rope (tiny black line at the top of fore gaff) to make sure gaff stays tighten while glue dries..

Happy modeling.

Few pictures during installation...

Happy modeling...

Parral beads were simulated in the same way as for the boom. The beads were cut from the toothpick, the hole was drilled thru the center, the line was put thru and they were painted flat black..

The beads were also sanded close to rounded shape...

The tackles were made for throat halliard and for throat downhaul...

Peak halliard line was made starting with a eye....

The main gaff was mounted and the lines were covered with a white glue, diluted heavily with water, to stiffen the lines and to make them straight..

To help with straightening, the home made alligator clip was used...

The fore gaff waiting for installation...

Happy modeling..

The work continues...

The rigged 2mm block..

This picture reminds me of a MG-42 machine gun...

Happy modeling

Fore gaff construction completed; well at least building part. Now blocks, rope, etc have to be installed.

First the shape of a jaws was traced on piece of wood, cut and sanded..

Attached to the giff, iron band installed and hole drilled.

The eye bolt mounted as well. This time no snap effect..

Painted in flat black... Ready for next step.

Happy modeling.

Next step was to cut a small grove for a jaws by positioning the gaff into wise and cutting the grove in very slowly pace. To make it a bit stronger i wrapped around gaff a small piece of scotch tape. If anyone has more efficient idea of how to cut this grove pls share it... I have one more to make...

The jaws were slide in the grove and glued. 

A little bit of sanding was applied on the whole construction to make it smoother..

Then an "iron" bands made out of electrical tape, were cut and positioned. I also added small amount of glue to make sure those "iron" band will stay put.

Then i made a small hook, drilled a hole for it in the gaff, started to push hook in, and ..... snap.

A bit too much pressure to install the hook not realizing that small amount of glue applied on both ends of the hole, started to stiffen already...

OK, well, trying to glue a jaws back on the gaff was not quite an option in this case. Before I already made few extra gaffs on lathe in longer length so used one of spares. The jaw was refurbished by removing all traces of old gaff, sanded it a bit and mounted on the new gaff.

The iron band was next, and hook making sure that glue does not cure before hook is mounted. That extra wire was sanded on opposite side of a jaws.

The layer of flat black was added afterwards..

Small holes for the parral beads were also drilled through the jaw ends..

Happy modeling.