Ferrus Manus
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Everything posted by Ferrus Manus
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The fore parrels and associated tackles: How I set up the fore and main halyards and associated gear: many modelers forget to add a realistic amount of line in their rope coils. In reality, these ships would have been a mess of rigging on deck.
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Another issue I would like to address right now instead of later is the oars. Multicolored oars are relatively rare in Reale models (and galley models in general). I could either paint them blue, white, red or any kind of wood color in their entirety. I will likely end up going with what's shown in the painting, which is dark blue oars in their entirety.
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I also found a display spot right above the work area on a shelf. That means the ship will be looked at from the bottom up, which will expose some of the exquisite detail work to the eye, and hide some of the uglier deck details and the railings assuming I put waistcloth on. This also means I might be able to put an awning on the back of the ship without obscuring the gold supports and frame timbers.
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Hello boys, I'M BAAAAACKK!!! I apologize for taking almost 2 months off of this project. I decided to work on two off-forum small projects during that time, a small tugboat and a tiny oyster lugger. Anyways, yesterday I managed to get the mainsail penciled in, cut out and riddled with the holes it will need for rigging, and bent to the main yard. I glued the yard to the mast and temporarily rigged part of the main lift. I temporarily put the ship's smaller boat onto the boat gallows so I could see how the boat and the sail interact. The boat ever so slightly fouls the sail, but I wanted the main yard to sit lower on the mast because otherwise it looked too high up off the deck. I probably won't rig the halyard until the reef points, blocks, and some other stuff is put in.
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Naval History On This Day, Any Nation
Ferrus Manus replied to Kevin's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I know I'm a day late to post this, but... On November 10th, 1975, the ore freighter Edmund Fitzgerald was lost with all hands in a freak storm on Lake Superior. The sinking of the Edmund Fitzgerald was forever memorialized in Gordon Lightfoot's famous ballad. -
I can't believe there's another person on this forum who LOVES modifying ships' boats from kits! If you want tips and techniques, I'm your guy.
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Good research, Steven! If I may ask, can I see your sources? I assume all of them are meditterranean carracks.
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Representations are just that- representations. The representations of the Lomellina ship I have seen have all been wildly inaccurate. I was not claiming swivel guns were found. Neither article I read mentioned swivel guns. I was coming at it from a perspective of assuming the carrack was used as a warship (see the gunports) and might have had the gunwale built to accommodate anti-personnel pieces. I am aware that a Tumblr post (as well as any news report) is likely to be wrong in many significant ways. It is likely that both are true- the ship likely had her own armament, and was carrying large-wheeled land guns for use in the latter stages of the Italian Wars.
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Remains of 500 year-old shipwreck: Dated 2019
Ferrus Manus replied to Allegheny's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Do we know what type of ship it is? It looks to me like it could be some kind of cross between a carrack and a cog. -
I say she needs a bonaventure. This article mentions a total length of 46.12 meters, or 151.31 feet. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/10572414.2023.2186748#d1e587 The Santa Catarina do Monte Sinai was 38 meters, or 124.67 feet. The Mary Rose (or what we know of her length) as per World History Encyclopedia, was 38 meters or 105 feet. These are two vessels smaller than Lomellina, both with bonaventures.
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I think the gunwale should be made as if it was actually of intended use, as the Lomellina was discovered with guns. I am not aware as to the details of where those guns would have been situated, or if swivel guns were found. I based the Elisabetta's two guns on those found with the Lomellina wreck. That would mean a gunwale (with no clinker planking extending inwards, as is seen on some other carracks) that reaches about upper chest height, assuming the swivel pieces are positioned directly on the gunwale. The Beat to Quarters Tumblr article mentions 15 wrought iron composite guns found on board the ship as cargo. The article does not mention Lomellina being armed herself, but she had gunports. I don't know if you should trust this article though, because it mentions the Lomellina being a cross between a galley and a carrack. https://ltwilliammowett.tumblr.com/post/665321756962308096/the-lomellina-wreck This article, which is more reputable, mentions ten iron guns and two bronze, but no swivel pieces. https://shiplib.org/index.php/shipwrecks/mediterranean-shipwrecks-2/western-mediterranean/lomelina-1615/
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Fair warning, the forecastle of the museum model looks pretty inaccurate to me. I sure hope yours ends up looking like a carrack instead of mostly a galleon. Reconstructions of the Mary Rose also fall into the same pit.
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Yep! I modeled it after the first image of the original Lomellina, at least partially. The font on the stand is Bembo, a typeface developed for Aldus Manutius in 1495.
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I am very much looking forward to seeing you do this build as well. Perhaps the Lomellina could use the Elisabetta as a companion.
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I like the look of it as well! If you were to go for an accurate look, the ship would need to be painted in its entirety. You should look for primary sources as well as the replica if you intend to do this. As for the rigging, I tend to rig square-rigged vessels starting from the centerline and moving outward. There are plenty of rigging diagrams on MSW for the Bounty. Another source I have that might be helpful to you is "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" by C. Nepean Longridge, a book explaining the construction of 18th century British square-rigged naval ships.
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Another issue: the painting I have largely based my decisions off of does not depict the ship with swivel guns, and neither do the diagrams in the Landstrom book. For this reason, I will instead be covering the railings with waistcloth. This should in theory make the railings less offensive to look at. The waistcloth will be a simple strip of red-painted silkspan, nothing fancy.
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Sorry for the delay in posting a reply. This is the current progress on the foresail, over the past week: I got the sheet belayed, the two pairs of martnets and buntlines in and belayed, and the reef tackle done. Up next is the clew line (and the main top toggles as a whole), the parrel lines/tackles, and a bunch of rope coils.
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I have gotten the fore lift mostly rigged, the lower lines all belayed, the vangs belayed, and the sheet started.
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I have stained all lengths of line for the foresail. The problem is with the medium-diameter lengths of line. Because of how they were wrapped around a flat spool, they will not be willing to obey a catenary curve on their own. (A catenary curve is the natural effect of gravity on a slack line.) For that reason, I have chosen to inundate them in white glue and apply tension to get the kinks out. I have seen multiple other modelers do this to great success. Making progress: All lengths of medium line will have this done. In fact, I might just do this with large lengths of this line off-ship before even cutting them to size. This is because I have an issue with this line when taut as well. Taut lines of this rope tend to want to twist when tension is applied, tangling tackles, etc. If the strands of rope are held together with white glue, this might not happen. The medium-thickness tan line will be used for the three continuous lines on the lower part of the yard, the lift halyards, and the standing ends of the braces and vangs.
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White glue is easily controllable with a toothpick and stays wet for longer, which is why I will begin using it for high-risk areas, like on a sail. I end up having issues with super glue stains on at least one sail of almost every model I have made using silkspan sails. These are visible both in photos and in real life.
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I got the reef points done today. This involved cutting two-inch lengths of rope, putting super glue in the middle, and folding them over. Then, the rope lengths (which looked like a very narrow "v" at this point) were slid into the holes I had put into the silkspan and glued in place using white glue. This is the result: I am just now discovering the value of backlighting sails for photos. One thing I have always hated about my small-diameter tan rigging thread is its tendency to blend in with the color of a sail, which prevents it from being easily visible from a distance. So, what I did to remedy that was paint the lines in a 50/50 tan/brown paint mixture, highly diluted. This was done along the lines of @kirill4's advice and the example of his Galleon. This will likely be what I do from here on out with running lines, on all subsequent models. What I will also likely get done tonight is putting the rest of the holes in the sail for rigging. I might also do some of the toggles on the clew and top.
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I will likely rig the main lift at least partially in order to make the space to belay the fore lift before we get to that point.
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