allanyed

Today I had to find something to amuse myself as watching varnish dry isn't a very stimuating pass time (it has dried finally after 24 hours). 
 
I thought I would have a go at making the propeller. I have not made one before and the fall back option was going to be to buy one. I don't however like buying fittings as it always feels like cheating.
 
This is what I did.
 
Firstly to make the blades I cut 3 identical strips of brass .040 inch thick. The 3 strips were fastened together using double sided tape as I intended cutting out all 3 blades at the same time. A paper template was fastened to the brass strips again using double sided tape . Confidence / experiences was low so I marked out 6 blades. The pin in one of the photo's gives an idea of scale.
 


 
I din't need the reserve set of 3 blades as the first lot turned out ok. The small peg at the bottom of each blade was to locate / fasten them in the hub.
 

 
The hub was turned on the lathe and 3 equi-spaced holes were drilled around the circumference to take the pegs on the blade. Each blade was given a slight curvature by bending it around a bar - using the vice to apply the pressure. The whole lot was then assembled and soldered together.
 


 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks again to everyone for the compliments and likes. I will try to post more pics when I return next week from traveling on business.   No golf and no ship modeling for over a week,  the withdrawal systems are already cropping up!  
Allan

Phill,
 
I have sent you a PM
 
Allan

Hi Ed and Druxey,
 
Thanks for your follow up to my glue question.  I will keep trying...  Ed, I think you are right about the binding agent.  This is exactly what I think happened.
 
Back to building. I have done some (more like a lot of) rework on the Naiad - I was not a fan of the knee of head and a few other areas, so I went back and redid all of this, ok, everything...  It caused a lot of pain and as you can imagine, I was not motivated to take photos, but in the end, I am very satisfied with the outcome and the decision.  Hey, if I am going to stare at this project for the next four years, its got to be pleasing to my eye.
 
The biggest issue was that I had drastically undercut the bow and made the entry much too fine.  I tried to overcome this as I placed the forward cant frames, but simply found that it altered the beam of the ship drastically.  So over I started. Needless to say, there was a day of depression...
 
33 hours later, here we are with a new keel, stern deadwood and head of knee.  I find that I am much smarter the second time around. 
 

 
Some lessons I have learned on this build:
 
1. Chisel instead of #11 blade (too late for my left index finger...)
2. File instead of sanding stick
3. Razor blade instead of sandpaper
4. Micrometer that measures thousandths, not hundredths
5. Successive pieces glued together have a cumulative affect on the size of the subassembly.  Constantly refer back to the plans and templates - adjust accordingly.
6. Keep a "Ships Daily Log".  Even if there are doldrums, record in it each day.  Hey, they had to do it at sea, so why not do it at home??? 
7. Don't final sand or final shape a piece during the subassembly phase.  The risk of undercutting or misshapaing is significant. By waiting to do this, it will help to bring the entire project together as one.  
 
Next up is the infamous Bollard Timbers and stem rabbet...
 
Wish me luck. G
 
 
 
 

Thanks again to everyone for the compliments and likes. I will try to post more pics when I return next week from traveling on business.   No golf and no ship modeling for over a week,  the withdrawal systems are already cropping up!  
Allan

Thank you Omega, and to everyone for the "likes", it is very much appreciated.
 
Deck planking and bulwark stanchions came next.  Once the bulk of the deck planking was complete the stanchions were made and glued in place.  They are shown clearly on the isometric drawing so it was pretty clear on how they looked and were placed.  Deck filler pieces between the stanchions was a hassle, but time and patience work wonders.
 
Allan

Next up is the deck framing.  The mast steps were added before hand.  I did plank the trunk cabin  as I had considered furnishing it at that time. The lodging knees were only added where the deck planking was left off for viewing. 
Allan

Thanks folks.  Feels good to be working on Effie Druxey.  I have been researching 1719 Establishment 50's as well as quietly building the Gjoa for about 6 months as there was a deadline so I have not been totally idle in our model building arena. This is a fun build, but I am at an impasse on the Gloucester steering wheel.  My lathe is down and out until it gets replaced or repaired so I am looking for a good way to make one.  Even at 1/4" scale I have not found a solution to date. I am wide open to suggestions.   I just need to make one good one using  any materials that work then can make a mold and cast a few in pewter but so far all efforts have been rather poor.  As small as the metal ring is, I am looking at trying some stiff card stock and brass rod next. 
 
Allan

Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
 
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot.  I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution.  It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
 
More photos from earlier on in the build follow.  The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place.  The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing.   Planking is poplar.  The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern.  Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet.  With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull. 
 
Allan

Thanks again to everyone for the compliments and likes. I will try to post more pics when I return next week from traveling on business.   No golf and no ship modeling for over a week,  the withdrawal systems are already cropping up!  
Allan

Thanks again to everyone for the compliments and likes. I will try to post more pics when I return next week from traveling on business.   No golf and no ship modeling for over a week,  the withdrawal systems are already cropping up!  
Allan

Thank you Omega, and to everyone for the "likes", it is very much appreciated.
 
Deck planking and bulwark stanchions came next.  Once the bulk of the deck planking was complete the stanchions were made and glued in place.  They are shown clearly on the isometric drawing so it was pretty clear on how they looked and were placed.  Deck filler pieces between the stanchions was a hassle, but time and patience work wonders.
 
Allan

Next up is the deck framing.  The mast steps were added before hand.  I did plank the trunk cabin  as I had considered furnishing it at that time. The lodging knees were only added where the deck planking was left off for viewing. 
Allan

Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions.
 
Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot.  I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution.  It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48.
 
More photos from earlier on in the build follow.  The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place.  The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing.   Planking is poplar.  The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern.  Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet.  With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull. 
 
Allan

The frames are doubles and the framing plan is quite detailed on where they lie on the keel.   The isometric drawings were a big help in framing the stern area and the bow area.   I used poplar for the frames.  After planing to the proper thickness I glued two sheets of wood together with the grains running at 90 degrees to each other.  The frame drawings were printed on label paper then adhered on the laminated wood sheet and cut out on my scroll saw.   I am no draftsmen compared to Wayne K, Druxey, and so many others here.  I downloaded the plans from the L.O.C. in TIFF so was able to insert them into my Turbo Cad drawing with very high resolution.   I then used the body plan to make the frame drawings, including the frames between the stations.  It was just a matter of dividing the space between the body plan lines at 5 or 6 points along the curve then using arcs to draw the frames.  Not necessarily the way they did them in real practice, but it worked out well with minimal fairing needed.
 
The keel was marked for each frame location.  The square assured the frames were set at 90 degrees verically in relation to the building board  and 90 degrees to the keel horizontally.  Spacers were used between each frame to maintain spacing and to give some rigidity.
 
 
 
Allan

I wanted to build a schooner fully framed and found as detailed a set of plans as possible for a Gloucester schooner on the US Library of Congress website.  I started building the Effie M. Morrissey (renamed in 1948 the Ernestina) about 3 years ago and have been back and forth on her as a couple other projects intervened.
 
The building sequence is nothing unusual, starting with the keel, stem, and stern post, which are made of Costello Boxwood.  Note the angled piece under the keel.  This was temporarily glued to the bottom of the keel so it would stand at the proper angle during the framing process.  The frames were hung at ninety degrees to the building board, not the keel.  This was shown clearly on the drawings although hard to see in the photos. 
 
Next up, framing.
 
Allan

Phill,
 
I have sent you a PM
 
Allan

Next up is the deck framing.  The mast steps were added before hand.  I did plank the trunk cabin  as I had considered furnishing it at that time. The lodging knees were only added where the deck planking was left off for viewing. 
Allan

Thank you Omega, and to everyone for the "likes", it is very much appreciated.
 
Deck planking and bulwark stanchions came next.  Once the bulk of the deck planking was complete the stanchions were made and glued in place.  They are shown clearly on the isometric drawing so it was pretty clear on how they looked and were placed.  Deck filler pieces between the stanchions was a hassle, but time and patience work wonders.
 
Allan

Thank you Omega, and to everyone for the "likes", it is very much appreciated.
 
Deck planking and bulwark stanchions came next.  Once the bulk of the deck planking was complete the stanchions were made and glued in place.  They are shown clearly on the isometric drawing so it was pretty clear on how they looked and were placed.  Deck filler pieces between the stanchions was a hassle, but time and patience work wonders.
 
Allan

Next up is the deck framing.  The mast steps were added before hand.  I did plank the trunk cabin  as I had considered furnishing it at that time. The lodging knees were only added where the deck planking was left off for viewing. 
Allan

Phill,
Scratch building the boats is actually a fun mini project for many of us.   There are plans available for a lot of ship's boats at the NMM collections site.  You can probably use some of  those as guides for making accurate representations of the Bounty's boats.   Details on "how to" make these can be found on this site and several books using the plug/frame/planking method.   It has worked well for me for many, many years.
 
Allan

Thank you Omega, and to everyone for the "likes", it is very much appreciated.
 
Deck planking and bulwark stanchions came next.  Once the bulk of the deck planking was complete the stanchions were made and glued in place.  They are shown clearly on the isometric drawing so it was pretty clear on how they looked and were placed.  Deck filler pieces between the stanchions was a hassle, but time and patience work wonders.
 
Allan

Thank you Omega, and to everyone for the "likes", it is very much appreciated.
 
Deck planking and bulwark stanchions came next.  Once the bulk of the deck planking was complete the stanchions were made and glued in place.  They are shown clearly on the isometric drawing so it was pretty clear on how they looked and were placed.  Deck filler pieces between the stanchions was a hassle, but time and patience work wonders.
 
Allan

Next up is the deck framing.  The mast steps were added before hand.  I did plank the trunk cabin  as I had considered furnishing it at that time. The lodging knees were only added where the deck planking was left off for viewing. 
Allan