rtropp

Hi all, I am waiting for my Ajax to arrive. It will be on the shelf while completing my current build. I have already downloaded material from the Euromodel site which is pretty helpful. I could use some help. Does anyone know if there is a Keith Julier's book that focuses on the Ajax? Does anyone know of any other publications that talk about the Ajax specifically? Is anyone else building or planning to start this build in the near future? Thanks all, Richard

Jaager, thanks for the tips. If I remove the bark should I coat the wood on the trunk in addition to the ends? I will not be cutting into billets because I may be using some, or all, of it for sculpting and would want to keep the size. It can be tough to find large pieces. I will probably keep one piece to cut down but, since I do not have tools for that size lumber, will need to find a wood shop that can do the job. Thanks for the help, Richard

I had to have an oak tree cut and I had them save a few pieces of the tree trunk 2 - 3 feet long. I will be drying it under a pole barn but cannot remember what I am supposed to use on the cut ends to help the drying process. I would appreciate any advice. Richard

I have experienced the same problem when trying to complete the cut in only a few passes. So I started to first score the cut line with a point from a divider using a number of light passes. This creates an indentation that helps guide an number 11 blade. Then I will cut using multiple light slicing cuts. I also change blades often. I buy them in packs of 100. I have gotten a little better with the knife so for most cuts have progressed to using multip light slicing cuts withou the scoring. Richard

Mark, I feel badly for you after all the work you put in. But, as many have said, You Have To Like It. I look forward to seeing your version 2. Richard

Ed, Just to be sure... while building, you would not use the mylar on top of the shipway plan (2B) would you? Checked on Amazon and the mylar is cheap enough but the shipping is more than the mylar. For my display plans I had used the thin hard plastic used for picture framing instead of glass. It was clear, solid and easy to write and erase with white board markers. Richard

All, Thanks for the conversation about plans. I am just going through my first read of book 1 and had the same thought about copies. I did not realize that a copy of the framing plan for shipway use had been included. A great addition Ed, Thanks, Richard

Chris, You have come to the right place. There is a section of this website called Articles and Downloads. It has a lot of great information. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php This should get you some help. Richard

Hi all, I am still working on the deck. The jogging is not coming out as I had hoped and I am reworking it... again. Meanwhile, I found this video on a different site and thought it might be of interest. It is time lapse of a full size tall ship being built. One of the things I liked is it helped me better understand the scale of models to a full size ship. Hope you enjoy it. Richard

I am not planning on outside venting. I just want to capture dust from sanding. By placing it on its side I can fit it under my worktable and run the house behind it to attached to tools as I use them. Richard.

Vacmaster HEPA

I am reorganizing my work room to try and free up some space. I would like to keep my shop vac below a shelf under my workbench. It will not fit upright but can fit if I position it on its side. I want to see if anyone thinks that will damage the shop vac or diminish its effectiveness. Thanks, Richard

Druxey That looks like a terrific device. I found the site of the company that makes them. But, as you say, they are not for miniature machines. I don't use large equipment but if their hype is accurate, it's hard to imagine not using one of them. Richard

Dan, I have to learn how to make those scrapers. I made some railings for my build and just a simple double bead mold on a 1/16 strip. The method I used would not be appropriate for anything more complex. The scrapers you show are a good model for what I might try. I had a question, did you use any power tools/mill or just use a hand file to work the blade? Really great work and your detailed explanations are very helpful. Thanks, Richard

Geoff Thanks, it has helped me considerably since I have never used these types of power tools. One of the reasons I support and contribute to MSW is to make sure this community continues to be a meeting place where I can learn from the more experienced... and I have found that there is a heck of a lot of experience out there. Richard

Todd, The dremel router table is one of the few accessories from Dremel that I continue to use, but it is such a pain in the neck to change anything that I pretty much keep the dremel attached to it and use my older dremel (forty years older) for other work. But, the table's small size and speed control make sanding smaller parts pretty easy, especially once you remove the guide and guard. I do have a mini mill and I will be getting a larger sanding drum to use on it to sand larger curves. I am still learning how to use all these new tools, which is turning out to be half the fun. I am pleased with the proxxon jigsaw. I use it a lot and it does the job. I have only had to re-attach blades twice and now that I have that process down it is pretty quick and easy. With most of my power tools I tend to work at slower speeds and slower feed rates to increase my control... at least while I am learning, so I like the proxxon's variable speed. I attached it to piece of MDF with a vibration pad between the saw and the MDF base. Then I just clamp it to the work table when I need it. My work shop is getting cramped so I need to look at how I organize it. The mill and table saw will need to be permanent so everything else has to be moveable to make sure I have enough clear space around the tools to work without distraction. On the issue of wood replacement, just this past week I firmed up my decision to continue with what is supplied with the kit, especially with Model Expo replacing the parts I screw up. It makes the learning experience less daunting and less expensive. I am more prone to keep trying to get things right knowing I have that safety net for replacement parts. For instance, I am in my second attempt at deck planking. I am pre fabricating it off the ship so it is easier to work, and correct. I had to send to Model Expo more for more wood and it arrived five days after I emailed the order. Boy did they get their act together. I am now glad I bought my first kit from them. I don't think anyone else has this guarantee. Hopefully in a couple of days I will be posting pictures of my build with the deck planked. Richard

Wes. thanks for the detailed information. I just ordered a Byrnes Saw and am trying to make sure I cover the right bases. Richard

Druxey, I was referring to a "splitter". It is a fin like part standing at the blade output side that appears to keep the wood separated after the cut when ripping. I am not sure if I correctly understand what you are referring to with a Saw Stop. I appreciate your thoughts. Richard.

I started reading and, of course, that raised as many questions as it answered. The book is for full size table saws so I am not sure if it is applicable to the miniature ones we are discussing. For ripping stock, it says that a "splitter" at the end of the blade is critical for reducing kickback and increasing safety. I do not see any on the pictures of table saws I have seen thus far. I would appreciate any thoughts. Richard

Great suggestions from all. Helps my feel more confident. I have purchased a book that shows the basics and also has a number of models for different push sticks and other jigs which should be helpful. Richard

Danny, Beautiful work. This will be helpful when I get to my first scratch build. I am at the early stage of considering my first scratch build. At this point I am planning the tools I might use. Can you tell me, what is the thickest wood you need for this build? Thanks, Richard

Michael, thanks for the link Richard

I appreciate all the advice. It is very helpful. I have ordered a couple of books to help me familiarize myself with the basics. Sadly, there are no stores with classes within 50 miles so I will have to self educate via books and YouTube videos. I have another question. One of the things I will be cutting early on are 1/16 x 1/8 inch planks. I intend to start with pre dimensioned sheet wood such as that available from HobbyMill. I am wondering just how difficult that small a size will be. Will ripping planks be a basic task or something very advanced? Are there any jigs or special accessories that will be required... or even helpful? Again, thanks to all for your thoughts. Richard

Thanks Joe, I hope someone posts when the Victory is ready. Richard

I would like to find out more about the victory kit discussed here but am having difficulty finding it. Can anyone supply a link for me? Thanks, Richard