rtropp

thanks Sal and David,
That is something I will try out.  I thought I would have to do it right away, but first I am going to try and salvage the cathead I have now by adding a small piece or 1/8 to extend the cat head to the proper length.
 
If that does not get the result I will have to rebuild and try cutting down the copper tube for it.  If it does work I will still experiment with the copper tube because there are still plenty of sheaves ahead. 
 
Richard

thanks Sal and David,
That is something I will try out.  I thought I would have to do it right away, but first I am going to try and salvage the cathead I have now by adding a small piece or 1/8 to extend the cat head to the proper length.
 
If that does not get the result I will have to rebuild and try cutting down the copper tube for it.  If it does work I will still experiment with the copper tube because there are still plenty of sheaves ahead. 
 
Richard

Thanks Sal,
That is helpful.  I will give it a try.
I think I have to rebuild the cathead.  The top part appears to be too short. On the plans I measured from the inside of the cap rail to the outside of the cathead but it does not seem to be correct compared to yours and others.  Can you  tell me the length of the top part of your cathead?
 
 
Richard

My last post was about a month ago so it has been going slow but steady.  Fabricating the parts from box rather than using the laser cut parts has made things slower, especially since i am also learning to use the tools. But, if at some point I am going to challenge myself with a scratch build, I need to improve my skills.  
 
After completing the figure head and head rails I moved on to the catheads.
 
Before attaching the upper head rail, I wanted the catheads fabricated so I could better determine the spacing. These were also made from boxwood.
 
I decided to see if could make sheaves that more closely simulated reality.  So...
 
Using a mill I cut the two channels for the sheaves using vary tiny burrs they were either .6mm or .6MM.

 
I tried cutting copper disks for the sheaves using a pliers type hole cutter.
 

 
I was able to get two cut but must have dulled the punch because it would not cut anymore after that.
(On another thread I am researching other options that might include a disc cutter, either from MicroMark or another one that seems to garnish recommendations.)  So, being impatient, I decided to cut them from box and paint them with badger model flex marine color wrought iron black.  After going through all this work I wanted to be able to see the sheave against the black of the cathead.
 
the third sheave on the side was also painted with the wrought iron black to help it stand out
 

 
below the sheaves are dry fit and the painting is not yet complete.
 

 
The cleat was from those supplied with the kit.  I used blacken-it (still have some left) and liked the appearance better than painting.
 

 
I am curious as to whether anyone has fabricated the cleats or just used those supplied.
 
Now that I have the head rail and the catheads I can start fitting them.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Mike, thanks for the link. I am experimenting with the leather punch on boxwood and painting with wrought iron and copper colored paint.  Not really crazy about that so I am thinking of investing in the RP punch.
As far as you can tell, will the business end of the punches hold up when used with metal such as copper or brass?
 
Thanks
Richard

My last post was about a month ago so it has been going slow but steady.  Fabricating the parts from box rather than using the laser cut parts has made things slower, especially since i am also learning to use the tools. But, if at some point I am going to challenge myself with a scratch build, I need to improve my skills.  
 
After completing the figure head and head rails I moved on to the catheads.
 
Before attaching the upper head rail, I wanted the catheads fabricated so I could better determine the spacing. These were also made from boxwood.
 
I decided to see if could make sheaves that more closely simulated reality.  So...
 
Using a mill I cut the two channels for the sheaves using vary tiny burrs they were either .6mm or .6MM.

 
I tried cutting copper disks for the sheaves using a pliers type hole cutter.
 

 
I was able to get two cut but must have dulled the punch because it would not cut anymore after that.
(On another thread I am researching other options that might include a disc cutter, either from MicroMark or another one that seems to garnish recommendations.)  So, being impatient, I decided to cut them from box and paint them with badger model flex marine color wrought iron black.  After going through all this work I wanted to be able to see the sheave against the black of the cathead.
 
the third sheave on the side was also painted with the wrought iron black to help it stand out
 

 
below the sheaves are dry fit and the painting is not yet complete.
 

 
The cleat was from those supplied with the kit.  I used blacken-it (still have some left) and liked the appearance better than painting.
 

 
I am curious as to whether anyone has fabricated the cleats or just used those supplied.
 
Now that I have the head rail and the catheads I can start fitting them.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sal,
I was tried but was having difficulty cutting down the tubing so it was close to the correct size.  How did you cut the tubing on yours?
 
Richard

My last post was about a month ago so it has been going slow but steady.  Fabricating the parts from box rather than using the laser cut parts has made things slower, especially since i am also learning to use the tools. But, if at some point I am going to challenge myself with a scratch build, I need to improve my skills.  
 
After completing the figure head and head rails I moved on to the catheads.
 
Before attaching the upper head rail, I wanted the catheads fabricated so I could better determine the spacing. These were also made from boxwood.
 
I decided to see if could make sheaves that more closely simulated reality.  So...
 
Using a mill I cut the two channels for the sheaves using vary tiny burrs they were either .6mm or .6MM.

 
I tried cutting copper disks for the sheaves using a pliers type hole cutter.
 

 
I was able to get two cut but must have dulled the punch because it would not cut anymore after that.
(On another thread I am researching other options that might include a disc cutter, either from MicroMark or another one that seems to garnish recommendations.)  So, being impatient, I decided to cut them from box and paint them with badger model flex marine color wrought iron black.  After going through all this work I wanted to be able to see the sheave against the black of the cathead.
 
the third sheave on the side was also painted with the wrought iron black to help it stand out
 

 
below the sheaves are dry fit and the painting is not yet complete.
 

 
The cleat was from those supplied with the kit.  I used blacken-it (still have some left) and liked the appearance better than painting.
 

 
I am curious as to whether anyone has fabricated the cleats or just used those supplied.
 
Now that I have the head rail and the catheads I can start fitting them.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

My last post was about a month ago so it has been going slow but steady.  Fabricating the parts from box rather than using the laser cut parts has made things slower, especially since i am also learning to use the tools. But, if at some point I am going to challenge myself with a scratch build, I need to improve my skills.  
 
After completing the figure head and head rails I moved on to the catheads.
 
Before attaching the upper head rail, I wanted the catheads fabricated so I could better determine the spacing. These were also made from boxwood.
 
I decided to see if could make sheaves that more closely simulated reality.  So...
 
Using a mill I cut the two channels for the sheaves using vary tiny burrs they were either .6mm or .6MM.

 
I tried cutting copper disks for the sheaves using a pliers type hole cutter.
 

 
I was able to get two cut but must have dulled the punch because it would not cut anymore after that.
(On another thread I am researching other options that might include a disc cutter, either from MicroMark or another one that seems to garnish recommendations.)  So, being impatient, I decided to cut them from box and paint them with badger model flex marine color wrought iron black.  After going through all this work I wanted to be able to see the sheave against the black of the cathead.
 
the third sheave on the side was also painted with the wrought iron black to help it stand out
 

 
below the sheaves are dry fit and the painting is not yet complete.
 

 
The cleat was from those supplied with the kit.  I used blacken-it (still have some left) and liked the appearance better than painting.
 

 
I am curious as to whether anyone has fabricated the cleats or just used those supplied.
 
Now that I have the head rail and the catheads I can start fitting them.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Well done, a beautiful boat,
congratulations on your completion
Richard

Well done, a beautiful boat,
congratulations on your completion
Richard

My last post was about a month ago so it has been going slow but steady.  Fabricating the parts from box rather than using the laser cut parts has made things slower, especially since i am also learning to use the tools. But, if at some point I am going to challenge myself with a scratch build, I need to improve my skills.  
 
After completing the figure head and head rails I moved on to the catheads.
 
Before attaching the upper head rail, I wanted the catheads fabricated so I could better determine the spacing. These were also made from boxwood.
 
I decided to see if could make sheaves that more closely simulated reality.  So...
 
Using a mill I cut the two channels for the sheaves using vary tiny burrs they were either .6mm or .6MM.

 
I tried cutting copper disks for the sheaves using a pliers type hole cutter.
 

 
I was able to get two cut but must have dulled the punch because it would not cut anymore after that.
(On another thread I am researching other options that might include a disc cutter, either from MicroMark or another one that seems to garnish recommendations.)  So, being impatient, I decided to cut them from box and paint them with badger model flex marine color wrought iron black.  After going through all this work I wanted to be able to see the sheave against the black of the cathead.
 
the third sheave on the side was also painted with the wrought iron black to help it stand out
 

 
below the sheaves are dry fit and the painting is not yet complete.
 

 
The cleat was from those supplied with the kit.  I used blacken-it (still have some left) and liked the appearance better than painting.
 

 
I am curious as to whether anyone has fabricated the cleats or just used those supplied.
 
Now that I have the head rail and the catheads I can start fitting them.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

My last post was about a month ago so it has been going slow but steady.  Fabricating the parts from box rather than using the laser cut parts has made things slower, especially since i am also learning to use the tools. But, if at some point I am going to challenge myself with a scratch build, I need to improve my skills.  
 
After completing the figure head and head rails I moved on to the catheads.
 
Before attaching the upper head rail, I wanted the catheads fabricated so I could better determine the spacing. These were also made from boxwood.
 
I decided to see if could make sheaves that more closely simulated reality.  So...
 
Using a mill I cut the two channels for the sheaves using vary tiny burrs they were either .6mm or .6MM.

 
I tried cutting copper disks for the sheaves using a pliers type hole cutter.
 

 
I was able to get two cut but must have dulled the punch because it would not cut anymore after that.
(On another thread I am researching other options that might include a disc cutter, either from MicroMark or another one that seems to garnish recommendations.)  So, being impatient, I decided to cut them from box and paint them with badger model flex marine color wrought iron black.  After going through all this work I wanted to be able to see the sheave against the black of the cathead.
 
the third sheave on the side was also painted with the wrought iron black to help it stand out
 

 
below the sheaves are dry fit and the painting is not yet complete.
 

 
The cleat was from those supplied with the kit.  I used blacken-it (still have some left) and liked the appearance better than painting.
 

 
I am curious as to whether anyone has fabricated the cleats or just used those supplied.
 
Now that I have the head rail and the catheads I can start fitting them.
 
Richard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Well done, a beautiful boat,
congratulations on your completion
Richard

Well done, a beautiful boat,
congratulations on your completion
Richard

Well done, a beautiful boat,
congratulations on your completion
Richard

Sal,
looks great, 
thanks for the alligator tip, I will try it when I get to that point.
Richard

Sal,
looks great, 
thanks for the alligator tip, I will try it when I get to that point.
Richard

Mike, thanks for the link. I am experimenting with the leather punch on boxwood and painting with wrought iron and copper colored paint.  Not really crazy about that so I am thinking of investing in the RP punch.
As far as you can tell, will the business end of the punches hold up when used with metal such as copper or brass?
 
Thanks
Richard

Sal,
looks great, 
thanks for the alligator tip, I will try it when I get to that point.
Richard

Sal,
looks great, 
thanks for the alligator tip, I will try it when I get to that point.
Richard

Sal,
looks great, 
thanks for the alligator tip, I will try it when I get to that point.
Richard

Big step..stepped the bowsprit, no going back now.
 

 
A heads up about the splash guard.  The manual says that the laser cut pieces were suppose to be cut with the grain running top to bottom, which makes sense to make them easier to bend around the jig.  The pieces on my sheet, however, were cut with the grain running lengthwise or perpendicular to the way described in the manual.  With the grain running in that direction the pieces seemed too stiff to ‘dry’ bend around the jig without breaking so I soaked them in hot water for about an hour.  Not only did I soak them but I used a hand steamer to really soften them up.  I formed them around the jig provided, bending one piece at a time.  I let them dry overnight and then glued them together, clamping the pieces back onto the jig.
 


 
The gammoning for the bowsprit was next which was straight forward enough but awkward working in such a tight area.
 

 
First casualty while rigging, I knocked the dolphin striker off. This was probably a blessing in disguise because I hadn’t thought that it was very secure from the beginning.  This gave me the opportunity to add a pin to its back in order to secure it better to the bowsprit cap, hard to see the pin.
 

Before starting the bowsprit rigging and after studying the plans I came up with a procedure that, for me, seems to work.  I decided that in order to keep the lengths of the lanyards between the hearts consistent that I would tie those first.  To do this I made a little jig that would hold the hearts at a set distance apart so I could lash them together.  The jig is made of two smooth jawed alligator clips, soldered together with a piece of copper wire.
 

 
I don’t have pictures doing the bobstays because I was seeing if this method was going to work but I do have them doing the bowsprit shrouds.
 

 
Hearts held in position
 

 
Adding the lanyard.  I didn’t tie the lanyard in place I just glued the ends to the line adjacent to it.
 

 
The shroud was then looped around the heart, tightened and seized.  The hooked end of the shroud was already hooked to the hull.
 

 
Early Christmas present to myself, Dr. Slick 3 1/2" scissors.  works well.
 

I want a disk cutter that will give very small disks in metal.  I have tried a "scissor" type model with some success but it seemed to stop being effective after the first two copper disks. 
 
The Micro Mark has one called "micro punch set" which will make disks down to 1mm but it seems kind of pricey and seems to have some plastic in its build.  I have search and found no other metal disk cutter punches that will provide disks smaller than 1/8 Inch.
 
Does anyone know of any others that will create disks to the micro sized 1mm?
Has anyone used the micro mark and able to provide some feedback?
 
Finally,
I have considered making one. The idea of making custom sizes is appealing but do not think I have the tools or skills to build one.
 
Thanks,
Richard
 

I started on the bowsprit and you will need to forgive me but I keep forgetting to recharge my phone so I don’t have many pictures of how I made it.  Making the parts for this mast is straight forward and were made pretty much per the instructions.  The hardest part for me was the fairlead.  I’d like to know if anyone who’s made this model was able to use the kit supplied piece. I ruined all three pieces trying to drill the six holes in them.  The size of the holes you need are almost as wide as the piece itself!  Anyway I finally decided to make my own.  The only scrap hard wood I had was some African pear so I tried that.  It didn’t come out too bad, just the color of the wood doesn’t match the rest.
 
 


 
Here’s the completed bowsprit.
 

 
 
The only two, well three, things I did differently than the kit were the fairlead, which I made myself, the saddle for the spritsail and the iron bands.  For the spritsail yard sling saddle I didn’t like making it out of paper as instructed in the manual and I believe they were usually made of lead so I decided to use a piece of brass painted to look like lead.  For the iron bands on the aft end of the mast I made some brass bands that were blackened instead of using the pinstripe tape provided.