rtropp

Still working on the quarter galleries.  I "think" I'm about half done with these things.  All of the shapes have been rough cut, and I'm now just trying to shape everything with blades/files/sandpaper/swearing.  I wish I had more pics to post, but these things are really taking a long time.  I pretty much work on them as long as I can until either my back starts hurting, or my eyes refuse to focus any longer.
 
I'm really looking forward to finishing these, and then installing the windows, etc..

Started stamping out some of the copper plates
 

Thanks all,
the online site suggested by Frank was very helpful.
 
Given the sites descriptions, the difficulty I had with 6061 must have been my inexperience, the cutters or equipment, or perhaps my impatience with how slow it went.
 
I will keep trying.
 
Thanks
Richard

Thanks all,
the online site suggested by Frank was very helpful.
 
Given the sites descriptions, the difficulty I had with 6061 must have been my inexperience, the cutters or equipment, or perhaps my impatience with how slow it went.
 
I will keep trying.
 
Thanks
Richard

Beautiful work,
Richard

Beautiful work,
Richard

Finished up all the yard bracing, added the foot ropes and crane lines and cargo lifting hooks. For the benefit of novices that will follow building this I will share a couple of techniques used.
 
First in adding the lifting lines I found I had to add blocks to existing down lines. First I secured the lines with a little stretch to tighten the lines; then I added a touch of Gorilla Super Glue which is thicker and allowed the ability to position the blocks and tacky enough to hold onto the line. Once glue set then wrapped and seized in space.
 

 
I then added the foot ropes to the bowsprit and spanker boom. This required tying a series of knots on the line. First I did a test clove hitch on the ends to determine how much line needed to be able to use one line with the center area untreated with a mixture of 50/50 water and white glue. I then tied the knots for each side and only soaked the knots and one space at each end of the knot series. I allowed the glue mixture to set while weighted down overnight. I first tied the clove hitch to the end of the bowsprit and boom using the untreated center section; then tied the loose ends as needed and carefully formed the knotted areas to curves.

 

 

 
Next I added the cargo hooks and rigging. I formed the hooks using .020" brass rod and needle nose pliers around to hold the single block. Once cut from the rod I hammered the hook shape with a drift punch at a slight angle to allow for a taper to the hook shank. I then added solder to each side of the hooks to fill out the body of the hook.
 




 
I still do not have a good photo area so here are a few overview pictures of where I am at now with the above additions.
 




 
Next I will add the flag lines to each mast and then rig the anchors and down the road the hammock rails and stanchions.
 
 
 
 
 
 

After getting my grating bars spanning in the right direction (thanks Dirk) I moved onto the coaming for the hatches.  I believe it was Brian in his AVS log that used a 1/16” square file to cope the ends of the coaming for the lap joints so I thought I would give that a try.  I clamped the pieces into a vise and using the file I notched them accordingly.  I also cut down the coaming where the capstan platform is located so the planking will sit flush.
 
 
 
 
I assembled the frame upside down and used my trusty lego block to square it up and then used a tiny drop of ca glue to tack the pieces together.  Once the entire frame was assembled I painted each joint with a dilute mixture of white glue and water.  After letting the glue to dry overnight I trimmed and sanded the ends.
 

 
The shot racks were made using my Proxxon drill press and compound table which helped keep the notches in line and evenly spaced.
 

 
Coaming and grating stained, and cannon balls added.
 

Dirk, how does this look, better?
 

Dirk, I'm not exactly sure which bars you a referring to but are they the ones I am pointing to in the below photo?  If so I think I can correct that by turning the grating over and using the other side.
 
 

Chapter 12 – Deck Fittings
 
I was going to start this chapter by cutting and assembling the coaming frame pieces for the small aft-most hatch until I read Chuck’s Cheerful build log and how he made his hatches. In his log he, and it seems so obvious now, recommended building the grating first and then build the frame to fit around it.  So following Obi-Wan-Passaro’s advice I changed course and made all the grating pieces for the hatches.  This worked out well because I was able to lay out the grating so I ended up with a banded edge all around the perimeter of the grating.  The pieces are slightly smaller or larger than what’s shown on the drawing but not enough to be noticeable.  After inserting all the bars to make the proper size grating I squared it up using a few Lego blocks.  The piece was made upside down and held together using a tiny drop of ca glue at each joint.
 
 

 
After letting the pieces set overnight I cut the excess off using a hobby miter box.  You need to cut very slowly as some of the pieces may loosen up.  After cutting the edges were sanded smooth and any loose bars were re-glued.
 
 
 
 
Now I can make the frames. (errrrr…right Chuck?)

Don,
Very nice.
 
Which grade of aluminum did you use?  The grade I tried seems too tough to mill in my micromill.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Hi Sal,
You must have been looking over my shoulder... I did mess it up.  The sins of the early build are returning to haunt me.  When planking the deck I used a sheet of 1/64 ply as a base as a false deck to correct for uneven frame tops.  This added enough height to the deck to interfere with lining up the hawse holes.  Luckily I used a #70 drill bit to test so it should be repairable. Not sure how this will impact things like the cannons, but will find out after the next few steps. 
If I am unable to rework with a correct line up of hawse holes, I may have to cut the hawse pipes with inboard and outboard not actually connecting but appearing to be continuous.
 
The good news is I am learning what not to do and am getting better at, as Dirk calls it, deconstruction. The bad news is I am learning a lot of what not to do, and perhaps learning deconstruction too well :-)
 
I stepped away from the build for a couple of days to let go of some frustration before I decide what to do next. I just received some really fine carving bits and I will spend some time improving my carving skills on the figure head while considering next steps for the hawse holes.
 
Thanks,
Richard 

Don,
Very nice.
 
Which grade of aluminum did you use?  The grade I tried seems too tough to mill in my micromill.
 
Thanks,
Richard

Ed : I would fair the bulkheads when the fillerblocks are glued into place.. I live 160 Km from Copenhagen on Fyn... 
 
Made a jig for bending planks, the first planks and wales is in the jig now drying. So tomorrow i can get started with the wales...   

Hey.....
 
And so the planking began... 
 
After seeing Eric O´s Syren hull painted Yellow Orcre.. I have come to doubt whether I should paint it or not... I lean towards painting it... I really like the way it looks when it´s painted Yellow... But first PLANKING   

Hmmm... gonna make me work for I huh? 
3*(64/16) or is it 3*64
                            16
Either way it seems to work out the same.
 
64/16=4
3*4=12 inches.
According to zu Mondfeld's book, Historic Ship Models, Up to the end of the 17th century planks varied between 18ins and 13ins. In the 18th century from 14ins to 11ins and in the 19th century averaged 12 ins. (Guess they were cutting down trees quicker than they could grow.)
Then he also adds that the thickness of the strakes could vary from 3-4 inches at the bilges to 6 inches on either side of the wales.
 
So, 12 ins should be right on target.
 
When I try the same with the ME supplied 1/8 inch wood I get:
1*(64/8)= 8 inches.  Based on zu Mondfeld, this would seem to be on the smallish side.
 
Now, this is all predicated on my using your formula correctly.  Hey... I was a Liberal Arts major
 
Richard T.

Hi Sal,
You must have been looking over my shoulder... I did mess it up.  The sins of the early build are returning to haunt me.  When planking the deck I used a sheet of 1/64 ply as a base as a false deck to correct for uneven frame tops.  This added enough height to the deck to interfere with lining up the hawse holes.  Luckily I used a #70 drill bit to test so it should be repairable. Not sure how this will impact things like the cannons, but will find out after the next few steps. 
If I am unable to rework with a correct line up of hawse holes, I may have to cut the hawse pipes with inboard and outboard not actually connecting but appearing to be continuous.
 
The good news is I am learning what not to do and am getting better at, as Dirk calls it, deconstruction. The bad news is I am learning a lot of what not to do, and perhaps learning deconstruction too well :-)
 
I stepped away from the build for a couple of days to let go of some frustration before I decide what to do next. I just received some really fine carving bits and I will spend some time improving my carving skills on the figure head while considering next steps for the hawse holes.
 
Thanks,
Richard 

Gahm,
thanks. I found the section in Dirk's build log.
Richard

Hi Sal,
You must have been looking over my shoulder... I did mess it up.  The sins of the early build are returning to haunt me.  When planking the deck I used a sheet of 1/64 ply as a base as a false deck to correct for uneven frame tops.  This added enough height to the deck to interfere with lining up the hawse holes.  Luckily I used a #70 drill bit to test so it should be repairable. Not sure how this will impact things like the cannons, but will find out after the next few steps. 
If I am unable to rework with a correct line up of hawse holes, I may have to cut the hawse pipes with inboard and outboard not actually connecting but appearing to be continuous.
 
The good news is I am learning what not to do and am getting better at, as Dirk calls it, deconstruction. The bad news is I am learning a lot of what not to do, and perhaps learning deconstruction too well :-)
 
I stepped away from the build for a couple of days to let go of some frustration before I decide what to do next. I just received some really fine carving bits and I will spend some time improving my carving skills on the figure head while considering next steps for the hawse holes.
 
Thanks,
Richard 

Hi all,
its been awhile but I am back to my Syren build.
I decided to try my hand at carving the figure head.  It ended up taking a lot longer than I expected and I am going to have to give it a second try.
 
This picture was part way through the process

 
This one has been worked to better fit its place on the build but I had to take too much off to get it to fit.  

 
I think I am getting a feel for the carving but  I need to to get the proportions a little closer and modify my sequence to get a better fit to the build.
 
Richard

I have begun the hawse pipes.  On the inboard side there is a piece that frames each pair.  Is that precut (laser) or is there a template in the plans? I cannot get a clear picture in either the plans or the practicum so if not, I guess it is "free hand."
 
Thanks,
Richard

I have begun the hawse pipes.  On the inboard side there is a piece that frames each pair.  Is that precut (laser) or is there a template in the plans? I cannot get a clear picture in either the plans or the practicum so if not, I guess it is "free hand."
 
Thanks,
Richard

I'm with Augie and Dirk, just love your build Thomas.
 
B.E.

Hi all,
its been awhile but I am back to my Syren build.
I decided to try my hand at carving the figure head.  It ended up taking a lot longer than I expected and I am going to have to give it a second try.
 
This picture was part way through the process

 
This one has been worked to better fit its place on the build but I had to take too much off to get it to fit.  

 
I think I am getting a feel for the carving but  I need to to get the proportions a little closer and modify my sequence to get a better fit to the build.
 
Richard