rtropp
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Holding Deck Planks Down After PVA Gluing
I have used thin CA or gap filling CA and had a firm hold after a few moments of holding.
Some, who are not fans of CA, will use PVA but put a couple of spots of CA to get the plank started. Downside is if you want to remove it you end up needing acetone and alcohol to dissolve the glue.
So, for me, if the area is easy to clamp, or not under stress, I use PVA. Otherwise, like hull planking, I will use thinned CA. Thinned CA is also useful for prepositioning then allowing Thinned CA to "seep" in. The "seep" in method is becoming a favorite practice.
We will just have to see if problems develop with CA over the years.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Ship books for sale
I will buy HMN Swan Class 1767-1780 Vol 4 By Antscherl ISBN 978-0-9820579-8-8. - $15.00. (water damage top binding area)
It will be shipped to 30223
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Great work. I'm going to give it a try. Can you tell me where you got the patterns for the blocks?
Thanks,
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Great work. I'm going to give it a try. Can you tell me where you got the patterns for the blocks?
Thanks,
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Keith Black in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Great work. I'm going to give it a try. Can you tell me where you got the patterns for the blocks?
Thanks,
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in cannon block question
Allan,
The Victory cross section I am working on is 1:98 so I will give thread a try. I have some "rope" being delivered soon.
Thanks
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Keith Black in cannon block question
Thank you all for your help. I believe my first priority is getting more comfortable with the smaller scale. I am getting better at working with the 3/32 blocks but now need to work on smaller rings. I have ordered wire gauges from 26 to 30. I couldn't find 32 yet. The wire working tools I bought from one of the hobby suppliers do not get down small enough. If need be I can grind my own as suggested. With the drawings and suggestions given I believe I can get a lot further along. Getting confirmation of the sizes to use will move me along nicely.
I was having some difficulty with scaling but found software for my iPhone that automates the conversions. It is called "Model Scaler" and really easy to use.
While I am not ecstatic with the quality of the materials and instructions for the Victory Cross Section, I do want to rebuild my skills for my next, hopefully scratch, project.
Again, thanks to all for the help.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Keith Black in cannon block question
Allan, thanks for the link.
Seahawk, very understandable instructions. The hooks should be easier to fabricate now.
Richard, the thread was an eye opener.
The build's instructions show rigging the wire around the block and then forming the hook in one piece. But, everything I have seen here shows using "rope" around the block and the wire only for the hook itself. You can see in my first picture at the start of the thread that I have been wrapping the wire around the block and continuing into forming the hook. I did do some research but never noticed that the blocks were wrapped with rope. (new glasses are definitely in my future.) So, I guess my decision is do I continue with the wire as per the instructions or use rope. I would like to practice the method I will be using if I ever get to a scratch build. I have enough supplies coming from Syren to do either.
What do you all think?
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in cannon block question
Allan, thanks for the link.
Seahawk, very understandable instructions. The hooks should be easier to fabricate now.
Richard, the thread was an eye opener.
The build's instructions show rigging the wire around the block and then forming the hook in one piece. But, everything I have seen here shows using "rope" around the block and the wire only for the hook itself. You can see in my first picture at the start of the thread that I have been wrapping the wire around the block and continuing into forming the hook. I did do some research but never noticed that the blocks were wrapped with rope. (new glasses are definitely in my future.) So, I guess my decision is do I continue with the wire as per the instructions or use rope. I would like to practice the method I will be using if I ever get to a scratch build. I have enough supplies coming from Syren to do either.
What do you all think?
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in cannon block question
Thank you all for your help. I believe my first priority is getting more comfortable with the smaller scale. I am getting better at working with the 3/32 blocks but now need to work on smaller rings. I have ordered wire gauges from 26 to 30. I couldn't find 32 yet. The wire working tools I bought from one of the hobby suppliers do not get down small enough. If need be I can grind my own as suggested. With the drawings and suggestions given I believe I can get a lot further along. Getting confirmation of the sizes to use will move me along nicely.
I was having some difficulty with scaling but found software for my iPhone that automates the conversions. It is called "Model Scaler" and really easy to use.
While I am not ecstatic with the quality of the materials and instructions for the Victory Cross Section, I do want to rebuild my skills for my next, hopefully scratch, project.
Again, thanks to all for the help.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Wacom in cannon block question
Thank you all for your help. I believe my first priority is getting more comfortable with the smaller scale. I am getting better at working with the 3/32 blocks but now need to work on smaller rings. I have ordered wire gauges from 26 to 30. I couldn't find 32 yet. The wire working tools I bought from one of the hobby suppliers do not get down small enough. If need be I can grind my own as suggested. With the drawings and suggestions given I believe I can get a lot further along. Getting confirmation of the sizes to use will move me along nicely.
I was having some difficulty with scaling but found software for my iPhone that automates the conversions. It is called "Model Scaler" and really easy to use.
While I am not ecstatic with the quality of the materials and instructions for the Victory Cross Section, I do want to rebuild my skills for my next, hopefully scratch, project.
Again, thanks to all for the help.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Gregory in cannon block question
Thank you all for your help. I believe my first priority is getting more comfortable with the smaller scale. I am getting better at working with the 3/32 blocks but now need to work on smaller rings. I have ordered wire gauges from 26 to 30. I couldn't find 32 yet. The wire working tools I bought from one of the hobby suppliers do not get down small enough. If need be I can grind my own as suggested. With the drawings and suggestions given I believe I can get a lot further along. Getting confirmation of the sizes to use will move me along nicely.
I was having some difficulty with scaling but found software for my iPhone that automates the conversions. It is called "Model Scaler" and really easy to use.
While I am not ecstatic with the quality of the materials and instructions for the Victory Cross Section, I do want to rebuild my skills for my next, hopefully scratch, project.
Again, thanks to all for the help.
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Keith Black in cannon block question
I am building the Corel Victory cross section 1:98. I've been practicing rigging the cannon. The 3mm blocks that came with the model fall apart with the slightest pressure. (well, maybe not so slight.) I am using 2.5mm blocks from Syren Ship Company, which are really nice.
The issue is what size block to use. Those cannon were heavy so the big one makes some sense. The small one looks nice but then the eye ring looks too big.
So I figured I'd ask what you all think.
Thanks,
Richard
By the way, these are my first practice attempts and hopefully the final ones will be better.
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rtropp got a reaction from bruce d in cannon block question
I am building the Corel Victory cross section 1:98. I've been practicing rigging the cannon. The 3mm blocks that came with the model fall apart with the slightest pressure. (well, maybe not so slight.) I am using 2.5mm blocks from Syren Ship Company, which are really nice.
The issue is what size block to use. Those cannon were heavy so the big one makes some sense. The small one looks nice but then the eye ring looks too big.
So I figured I'd ask what you all think.
Thanks,
Richard
By the way, these are my first practice attempts and hopefully the final ones will be better.
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Micromark cutoff saw?
could we get a picture of how they mounted and set up the repeatable jig.
R
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rtropp got a reaction from Canute in Micromark cutoff saw?
could we get a picture of how they mounted and set up the repeatable jig.
R
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Proxxon DB250 mini wood lathe
If I were already saving for a replacement, I wouldn't look to improve or upgrade. I would put my time into learning to use the tools so I was ready when the Sherline came along.
R
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rtropp got a reaction from Canute in Proxxon DB250 mini wood lathe
If I were already saving for a replacement, I wouldn't look to improve or upgrade. I would put my time into learning to use the tools so I was ready when the Sherline came along.
R
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Degluing
Alcohol or CA de-bonder are very thin and I found that even when being very careful, the liquid will seep into multiple layers of wood and also that they can impact the finish. One testimonial at the link cited says "It doesn't affect finishes, so for glue cleanup it's fantastic. The nice thing is that it won't seep into glue joints, so you can use it around a bridge or neck reset or anything like that."
I would be especially curious bout " wont seep into glue joints." One hand sounds great for cleaning up glue on the surface of the work but does not sound like it would seep into, say, a wood plank you want to remove.
Watcha' all think?
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from mtaylor in Caullking Planks
Hi,
I never thought of that. It sounds pretty straight forward so I will try it on my current project.
Thanks for the idea
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from thibaultron in Caullking Planks
Hi,
I never thought of that. It sounds pretty straight forward so I will try it on my current project.
Thanks for the idea
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from Gregory in Caullking Planks
Hi,
I never thought of that. It sounds pretty straight forward so I will try it on my current project.
Thanks for the idea
Richard
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rtropp got a reaction from JesseLee in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Great Job, Congratulations.
Richard T
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rtropp got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Great Job, Congratulations.
Richard T
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rtropp got a reaction from Canute in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64
Great Job, Congratulations.
Richard T
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