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Proxxon DB250 mini wood lathe


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Hello Gents!

 

Got a sweet deal on a Proxxon DB250 wood lathe, so I pulled the trigger on this unit with the 3 jaw chuck while I save up for a Sherline (which you guys really sold me!).

 

Are there any tips/tricks/mods that can be performed to improve function/added value?  Would love to see what you guys can come up with...  already saw a stainless steel mod for the tool rest, so this one seems a no brainer to perform...  bugger, more stable tool rest.

 

Please, let me know what can be done to improve the unit.

 

Thanks!

 

Jorge

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The 250 mm  center distance can be limiting.  For example the bowspit on my Cheerful is 310.  So I have the extension table which allows me to turn longer pieces such as masts.

 

John

Current Build:

Medway Longboat

Completed Builds:

Concord Stagecoach

HM Cutter Cheerful

Royal Caroline

Schooner for Port Jackson

 

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20 minutes ago, bartley said:

The 250 mm  center distance can be limiting.  For example the bowspit on my Cheerful is 310.  So I have the extension table which allows me to turn longer pieces such as masts.

 

John

I did notice that there is an extension available, but I have only seen it in Australia; I have searched multiple time/ways, but I havent been able to find it anywhere in US...

 

Thanks!

 

Jorge

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I brought a second bed direct from Proxxon (Code 27020-31) and mounted it and the lath end-on-end on some MDF. The bed cost €14.30 (+ postage) a couple of months ago, try your Proxxon dealer to see if they supply spares. Obviously not as good as a single piece extended bed, but it does the same job.

 

Gary

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As for all lathes, collets are basically a must (also from a safety perspective), when you are working with smaller diameter pieces. However, I think the lathe normally comes with collets, doesn't it ?

 

@obsidean12: why do you have a a three-jaw chuck in the tailstock ? I hope it is a free-spinning one ...

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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For most ship modelling purposes a long bed lathe is not essential. Yes, for small objects such as deadeyes, turned stanchions, cannon and those kind of items a precision lathe with collets is great. However, I've never understood the need to turn masts and yards or other long pieces. The shipwrights' method in miniature works just fine. Cut the spar four-square, then eight-square and finally round it off using sandpaper strips works just fine!

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Druxey, I think it depends also on the diameter you have to work with. If your spars are only two or three mm in diameter at the end, it may be rather difficult to employ the classical method. For this you would need to make yourself jigs to hold the material while applying the plane or offering it up to the circular saw.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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On 6/30/2020 at 7:33 AM, Jorge Hedges said:

Are there any tips/tricks/mods that can be performed to improve function/added value?  Would love to see what you guys can come up with...  already saw a stainless steel mod for the tool rest, so this one seems a no brainer to perform...  bugger, more stable tool rest.

Jorge

I would be interested in seeing the info on the S/S mod for the tool rest. I also have a DB-250.

Thanks,

Hank

Construction Underway:

Entering Builder's Yard - USS STODDARD (DD-566) 1967-68 Configuration (Revell 1:144 FLETCHER - bashed)

In Development - T2 or T3 Fleet Oil Tanker (1:144 Scratch Build Model) - 1950s era

Currently - 3D Design/Printed 1/48 scale various U.S.N. Gun Mounts/Turrets and GFCS Directors (Mk. 34, 37, 38, 54)


Completed:
Armed Virginia Sloop (1768)
Royal Caroline (1748)
Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) (Scratchbuilt)

USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 1967-69 Configuration (Trumpeter 1:200 bashed MISSOURI)

Member:
New Bern Ship Modeler's Guild

NRG
NCMM Beaufort -CSMA

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Obsidean: Chacun à son gout - we each have our own preference, and that's OK.

 

Wefalck: I always use jigs for planing (actually I use chisels, bevel down) and can 'turn' to very small diameters when well supported.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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On 6/30/2020 at 3:56 PM, Morgan said:

I brought a second bed direct from Proxxon (Code 27020-31) and mounted it and the lath end-on-end on some MDF. The bed cost €14.30 (+ postage) a couple of months ago, try your Proxxon dealer to see if they supply spares. Obviously not as good as a single piece extended bed, but it does the same job.

 

Gary

Found it and ordered, so will be waiting for the same later in July/August (out of stock, and ordered from Germany).

 

Thanks!

 

jorge

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If I were already saving for a replacement, I wouldn't look to improve or upgrade.  I would put my time into learning to use the tools so I was ready when the Sherline came along.

R

Richard
Member: The Nautical Research Guild
                Atlanta Model Shipwrights

Current build: Syren

                       

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3 hours ago, rtropp said:

If I were already saving for a replacement, I wouldn't look to improve or upgrade.  I would put my time into learning to use the tools so I was ready when the Sherline came along.

R

Small improvements always help as well.  For what I purchased tHe unit, I can do a couple Fixes/improvements, and still be under the new price.

 

Got it from a widow that can’t stand to see her husband’s hobby stuff in the house.  New, in the box, for $100.  Seems he never got to use it, as all the manuals are there, and the chuck in the original package as well.  Got a kit as well during the visit.

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