Zooker Posted June 17, 2020 Share #1 Posted June 17, 2020 Anybody use this stuff? Chuck Seiler 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted June 17, 2020 Share #2 Posted June 17, 2020 Here is what I use. mtaylor, MEDDO and BobG 3 Quote Chuck Seiler San Diego Ship Modelers Guild Nautical Research Guild Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop Completed: Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooker Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share #3 Posted June 17, 2020 Chuck: Thanks for this; I have some of this alcohol. BTW, any thoughts on what kind of glue modelers were using in the 1950s? Were they primarily water-based? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobG Posted June 17, 2020 Share #4 Posted June 17, 2020 I use isopropyl alcohol also for PVA glue and CA Debonder for super glue (cyanoacrylic adhesive). Give them time to soak in and then carefully pry the glued piece with a sharp knife to help lift it off. You may need to reapply if the piece is staying firmly attached. Work with it and avoid using too much pressure or you can break the piece. Chuck Seiler, mtaylor and Diver 3 Quote Bob Garcia "Measure once, cuss twice!" Current Builds: Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28 Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diver Posted June 17, 2020 Share #5 Posted June 17, 2020 36 minutes ago, BobG said: I use isopropyl alcohol also for PVA glue and CA Debonder for super glue (cyanoacrylic adhesive). Give them time to soak in and then carefully pry the glued piece with a sharp knife to help lift it off. You may need to reapply if the piece is staying firmly attached. Work with it and avoid using too much pressure or you can break the piece. Learned that lesson the hard way. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted June 18, 2020 Share #6 Posted June 18, 2020 2 hours ago, Zooker said: any thoughts on what kind of glue modelers were using in the 1950s? I guess that would be dependent on the situation. If it was old fashioned hobby model building, probably water based. Epoxy and other resin glues were available, but I suspect were not used much by modelers. If you are looking at other applications, that may be different. mtaylor 1 Quote Chuck Seiler San Diego Ship Modelers Guild Nautical Research Guild Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop Completed: Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Pellett Posted June 18, 2020 Share #7 Posted June 18, 2020 As someone who built, or rather tried to, build models old fashioned hide glue, a brown smelly liquid was available. Animal based and water soluble. This is where the expression about sending old horses to the glue factory came from. A higher tech glue especially used for building balsa/ tissue model airplanes was an acetone cellulose glue that went by the brand names, Duco, Ambroid, Testers. Quick drying and water resistant it later acquired a bad reputation for kids sniffing it. Both of these glues are are still available. Hide glue is sold be specialty woodworking suppliers and I bought a tube of Duco Cement the other day at our local Ace Hardware. It is good for temporarily gluing metal military figures to wood bases so that they can be handled while being painted. Roger mtaylor, BobG and henry x 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtropp Posted June 18, 2020 Share #8 Posted June 18, 2020 Alcohol or CA de-bonder are very thin and I found that even when being very careful, the liquid will seep into multiple layers of wood and also that they can impact the finish. One testimonial at the link cited says "It doesn't affect finishes, so for glue cleanup it's fantastic. The nice thing is that it won't seep into glue joints, so you can use it around a bridge or neck reset or anything like that." I would be especially curious bout " wont seep into glue joints." One hand sounds great for cleaning up glue on the surface of the work but does not sound like it would seep into, say, a wood plank you want to remove. Watcha' all think? Richard mtaylor 1 Quote RichardMember: The Nautical Research Guild Atlanta Model Shipwrights Current build: Syren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobG Posted June 18, 2020 Share #9 Posted June 18, 2020 4 hours ago, rtropp said: One testimonial at the link cited says "It doesn't affect finishes, so for glue cleanup it's fantastic. The nice thing is that it won't seep into glue joints, so you can use it around a bridge or neck reset or anything like that." Richard, I don't see the link you are referring to...?? mtaylor 1 Quote Bob Garcia "Measure once, cuss twice!" Current Builds: Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28 Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. Member of the Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted June 18, 2020 Share #10 Posted June 18, 2020 IPA is a great way to go if you can find any these days. The boss took my supply to mix with aloe vera gel for some homemade hand sanitzer when that was in short supply. Water also works well for aliphatics. Acetone (nail polilsh remover) for CA. I could not find an ingredient list for DeGlue Goo, but the Material Safety Data sheet for De Glue Goo states "Inhalation: Threshhold limit value: 10 ppm Short term exposure: 15 ppm for 15 minutes Odor threshhold 1.0 ppm Prolonged inhalation of vapors can cause irritation to respiratory tract. Eyes: Will cause eye irritation - smarting and reddening of the eye" Allan mtaylor 1 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zooker Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share #11 Posted June 18, 2020 Well, DeGlue is for water-based adhesive, but it appears that the glue my uncle used was an epoxy. As I mentioned earlier, the glue is solid white and rock hard. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted June 20, 2020 Share #12 Posted June 20, 2020 I must be doing it wrong then. For wood glue, alcohol. For CA... acetone seems to work. Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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