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I use isopropyl alcohol also for PVA glue and CA Debonder for super glue (cyanoacrylic adhesive). Give them time to soak in and then carefully pry the glued piece with a sharp knife to help lift it off. You may need to reapply if the piece is staying firmly attached. Work with it and avoid using too much pressure or you can break the piece.

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36 minutes ago, BobG said:

I use isopropyl alcohol also for PVA glue and CA Debonder for super glue (cyanoacrylic adhesive). Give them time to soak in and then carefully pry the glued piece with a sharp knife to help lift it off. You may need to reapply if the piece is staying firmly attached. Work with it and avoid using too much pressure or you can break the piece.

Learned that lesson the hard way.

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2 hours ago, Zooker said:

any thoughts on what kind of glue modelers were using in the 1950s?

I guess that would be dependent on the situation.  If it was old fashioned hobby model building, probably water based.  Epoxy and other resin glues were available, but I suspect were not used much by modelers.  If you are looking at other applications, that may be different.

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As someone who built, or rather tried to, build models old fashioned hide glue, a brown smelly liquid was available.  Animal based and water soluble.  This is where the expression about sending old horses to the glue factory came from.

 

A higher tech glue especially used for building balsa/ tissue model airplanes was an acetone cellulose glue that went by the brand names, Duco, Ambroid, Testers.  Quick drying and water resistant it later acquired a bad reputation for kids sniffing it.  

 

Both of these glues are are still available.  Hide glue is sold be specialty woodworking suppliers and I bought a tube of Duco Cement the other day at our local Ace Hardware.  It is good for temporarily gluing metal military figures to wood bases so that they can be handled while being painted.

 

Roger

 

 

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Alcohol or CA de-bonder are very thin and I found that even when being very careful, the liquid will seep into multiple layers of wood and also that they can impact the finish. One testimonial at the link cited says "It doesn't affect finishes, so for glue cleanup it's fantastic. The nice thing is that it won't seep into glue joints, so you can use it around a bridge or neck reset or anything like that."

I would be especially curious bout " wont seep into glue joints." One hand sounds great for cleaning up glue on the surface of the work but does not sound like it would seep into, say, a wood plank you want to remove.

Watcha' all think?

Richard

 

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4 hours ago, rtropp said:

One testimonial at the link cited says "It doesn't affect finishes, so for glue cleanup it's fantastic. The nice thing is that it won't seep into glue joints, so you can use it around a bridge or neck reset or anything like that."

Richard, I don't see the link you are referring to...??

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IPA is a great way to go if you can find any these days.  The boss took my supply to mix with aloe vera gel for some homemade hand sanitzer when that was in short supply.  Water also works well for aliphatics.    Acetone (nail polilsh remover) for CA.    

I could not find an ingredient list for DeGlue Goo, but the Material Safety Data sheet for De Glue Goo states "Inhalation: Threshhold limit value: 10 ppm Short term exposure: 15 ppm for 15 minutes Odor threshhold 1.0 ppm Prolonged inhalation of vapors can cause irritation to respiratory tract. Eyes: Will cause eye irritation - smarting and reddening of the eye"   

Allan

 

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