Jaager

Mark, yes, probably even if green. It is probably just me, but I think it would be seriously meshugga to pay the extra cost of shipping green wood from Brazil to Europe, as well as having to deal with the agricultural customs regulations for wood that could harbor pests. Just speculation, but I assumed that it would be kiln dried before it was loaded into a container. But you would be paying a lot for water were it indeed green wood. I come at this from a very specific aspect of all this. This is strictly based on my philosophy and experience, an opinion piece only: I favor POF at a higher end scale, but not a heroic one. A scale of 1:48 would be ideal, detail can be had without too much faking. Not wishing to sacrifice too much detail, but needing to be practical about display size, I opted for 1:60. I wish my imaginary fleet to all be the same scale. Even at 1:60 a first rate man of war is an imposing presence. Using Castello for framing at the larger range of scale, My guess is that a single frigate size vessel may use about 2"x6"x48" or more of your lumber stock. What with the curving timbers, there is a high proportion of waste. Castello is so expensive that it would only make sense to have open framing below the wale, on both sides. With wood this expensive and it becoming difficult to restock, serious tools are needed to process it. This means that a free standing bandsaw with a blade that is stronger than mere steel is needed. The waste from a tablesaw - multiple passes, flipping the stock is too expensive in wood lost to kerf. The one advantage that a tablesaw has over a bandsaw (other than initial cost) is that you do not need to worship at the alter of blade replacement. If you intend to use this just for planking, deck furniture, and masting, your cost in lumber per vessel will be significantly less. However, with boards this large, hard and heavy, it will still require serious shop machinery to work them. Now, if you have the proper tools, skills and time and you load up a large supply, you may be able to sell milled Castello to the community. With it being a sellers market, you would stand a chance of recovering what you spend on tools, blades, and lumber in a reasonable time, and supply a sought after product. HOWEVER, given that this would be skilled labor on your part, I doubt that you would be able to sell this at a price that sufficiently rewards your labor.

My math on this is kind of shaky, I you can get this for ~$28/bf and Gilmer is selling it for $44/bf now. What you are describing is lumber - a board. 6 inches wide by 2 inches thick by 4 feet long. Now, that is a unicorn. My math: 51 lb/ cubic ft. (Wood Database) A bf (board foot) is 144 cubic inches (12" x 12" x 1") 51 / 12 = 4.25 lb/ bf a cubic foot = 12" x 12" x12" $13/2 lb = $6.50/lb $6.50 x 4.25 = $28/bf I am thinking that this is what Chuck was paying back when he could afford to supply it. If my math is correct, Take out a loan and buy as much as you can. Unless this crash produces a World wide deflation, this is a deal. My Hard Maple is ~ $8/bf and Black Cherry is ~ $6/bf - both grow in my region, it is bulk shipping by lumber truck/ You can probably get Acer pseudoplatanus (Sycamore Maple) and Pear for a price in the same ball park, so Castello does not have a monopoly over your choice of scratch build lumber. If you have your heart set on using it, this may be a once in a lifetime deal.

It looks to me as though #27 is a post that is forward of the two #15 sites. It is probably there to secure the anchor cables, when the anchors are in use. #15 are hatches to store anchor cables below. The wing (#26) must allow for easier use of two anchors without the lines becoming fouled at the securing point on deck? With no hole in the stem post at deck level, A bowsprit with its heel against post #27 would steep at too much of an angle to be practical, unless it was a just a stub for a forestay. A stay may secure directly to #27.

Ready made framing stock for a 1st rate @ 1:60 ( 15" in scale ). Depending on the piece, it may want planking over. It is better Basswood than Basswood, except for the color ... often good to ugly on the same piece. A shame about it as display wood, because the bf price for even 10x4 and 12x4 is a lot less than the other domestic species that suitable. I wonder what a cherry or walnut dye in it would look like? Hank, Worse comes to worst, you could always fix your leak using the liquid rubber stuff that the goof on cable keeps hawking. He seems to think that you could coat your shed with it, turn it upside down and paddle it down the PeeDee.

This sort of lamp allows for light to be adjusted.that clamp along my work bench. LED bulbs reduce the weight and heat. I found a deal somewhere for a pack on edge clamps that are more substantial and allow me to pull up and move the actual lamp PRN. I have one that I removed the final lamp bonnet and use cable ties to hold a crevice tool and flex hose attached to a portable vacuum to suck up saw dust with small machines with no vac attachment. it gets the inlet close to the action and keeps it there. I have one - not this brand - but a back wall clamp. It can seem like a scene from a wildlife documentary showing a pack of hyenas at a fresh kill to get my head into the action, if they are positioned too close.

Linen yarn comes in a wide range of diameters. Search the site for posts listing sources. Yours is the continent where it is produced.

One of the things I really liked about WordPerfect was how easy it was to set up a macro. Pre-computer, I was taught by my dissertation director to set up a 3x5 card with keywords, for the photocopies of research articles, so that what was wanted could be found again. There was an old sharewear database program, comma delimited, very straight forward, and easy to use. I used it to do a database for stick and string articles in NRJ, MB, SIS, MSB, and MSW. Windows killed it and I could find no low cost and easy replacement. The data was a txt file, so I can search it using EditPad, but with no macro, it took forever to reformat into something that looked good. Instead of one long line with commas for each entry. I lost heart - just typing was not as much fun as filling in a form - so I can find nothing published after 1995.

Bob, Thank you for the information. This is what I hoped would happen with this post. ( unnecessary editorial comment:) [ I know or have experienced that Seawatch does not do email acknowledgement for orders placed or reassurance via email, but they do respond to email and do fill orders. I just wish that they would get better at patting us on the hand. ] With Shellback , there was nothing - except the PayPal message about the deduction. That was on 3/20. Dead air. I sent an email on 4/4: more dead air. I contacted PayPal on 4/14 - they said to email the vendor, I did: dead air. PayPal took over on 4/30, when I escalated - because they said I was SOL if I did not do that before 5/4. They must have gotten no response either because. I got a full refund on 5/20. I fear that your hope is a forlorn one. I will try your link, because I do want the book.

Craig, That sounds like more fun. I would so this using the Station Sandwich Method. (I developed it, so of course I would.) Anyway, The only frames that I would need to loft would be the midlines of the bends at each station. About as many as the molds (bulkheads). Actually, I would not draw them. I would extract their curves from the Body plans. Draw the moulded dimension, site the deck level, port sills, wale, - Mirror and meld. The spaces would be filled with Pine, bonded using double sided tape. I would regularize the bend locations. For most vessels, the stations ARE the midlines of the bends. Because of the bevel, even between most stations, a perpendicular hole within the body of a frame will not hit all of the frames in that grouping. BUT, perpendicular holes outside the shape of the center most station and outside the moulded shape curve of the outermost station WILL work to align the group of bends and spaces. Once group of frames and spaces are bonded together, ( PVA for the spaces above the LWL and tape for the spaces below) the bevels for the group are sanded. It is a strong unit. Your vessel is two bends per station. I would glue up one bend before assembling the sandwich. The other bend would be actually one frame of the bend at each station. Depending on your scale, 1/4" or 3/16" should be OK, 1/8" shaky, the tape should hold the timbers below the LWL at the ends. If the deadwood is chosen to be continuous bow to stern in your build, it would be a keel width piece that fills the space between the bends above the keel. PVA bond that, and the unit is even more secure. Locator dowels inside the frames at each station will exactly align two sequential station sandwiches. The shape is identical. When everything (all of the sandwiches) between the hawse timbers and the stern framing is assembled, the whole hull is solid and can be final shaped outside and inside as a strong unit. The glue on the double sided tape does not like ethanol, so the spacer Pine pieces can be removed when it is done. I wait until the clamps and keelson is fitted. The keel, stem and sternpost go last. The hawse timbers and stern framing have to be done the same way any other framing method, although I use the temporary filler, shape as a solid method there too. Bottom line, 12 + 15 +1 = 28 bends - traditional method - 3 x 28 = 84 frame outlines - outside and inside curves to plot. 112 if you use the staggered frames as the plans have it. 15 stations = 15 curves to extract (no plotting or drawing needed) and 15 moulded shapes to draw, my way. And I do that and easy way. I have a series of disks with diameters in scale from 15" to 3". I position a disk that is the diameter of the scantling thickness at each known level (cutdown - outer edge of keelson, floor head, fut 1 head, deck, rail - whatever the scantling table gives me). I place transitional diameters between them. Then I draw a line that is at a tangent to the disk, to get the moulded shape. It takes a lot less time than typing this did. In all candor I would probably have to plot station 15. I do all this using a raster based drawing program. The lines are slightly faceted, but sanding the wood solves that.

What research and experience has shown me: In post #41 - the frames from H fore to 10 aft are all bends (paired frames with alternating, overlapped, butt joins) . There is a significant shift, narrowing, and air gap as they rise. They are still paired bends. They would have been assembled with chock lumber pieces holding the gap and the bolts and dowels that held the pair together would go thru the chock wood. The chocks would not be a lot larger than the bolt diameter, so as not to impede air circulation. They did not use glue, so the strength of the bend structure would be the same, timbers touching or spaced apart. The same as washers on a bolt. Between the bends would have had temporary or fixed chocks too. They may or may not have been knocked out when the planking firmed up the structure. The cant frames forward of H and aft of 10 would have had their own chocks. The result would not be very attractive. Not worth showing in a model. Little wonder that most models with visible framing from back when is at least a bit stylized. Most old tests do not show this, but they don't show how to drive a nail either. So you are going POB. .....groan. Imagining this as POF - an obsession, I admit - I would side glue the bend paired frames and not narrow the sided dimension. A single frame flying in the wind would be weak. End grain to end grain glue joints are not reliable and can withstand almost no stress. A glued up bend is a strong structure. To me, the upper - topside - above the LWL - framing structure is functional only and has all the visual attraction of the 2x4 framing in a single family dwelling. I plank over it. Because I hide it, and because it makes the whole significantly stronger, I fill the spaces between the bends above the LWL with the same wood as the frames -and also glued. Trying to figure out the join angles of the cant frames makes my head hurt, so I would frame using square to the keel bends thru M forward and 15 aft. The hull below the LWL can then be totally planked over - with proper support for single layer planking, or partially or totally not planked .... for show. Just an alternative to consider.

And where appropriate, a round profile scraper might could convert a square bottom to a rounded groove, if careful. Maybe a reverse profile scraper also round over a top edge. I wonder what effect a carbide sharpening stone would have on the outer edges of a 3" slitting blade? Ruin it or or the wood or cut a groove?

Using a rock tumbler type, home made machine for the mass rounding of edges is here. I bought an economy actual rock tumbler from HF on sale and the 20% coupon, in case I every get that far. I will have to experiment to see if a flapper can be added.

I can across this site doing a search for an out of print book The Shellback's Library There are over 1,300 reprint nautical publications here. Chart your course thru our site. We are a small reprint publishing house established in 1998. We offer thousands of books and publications. Our products are one of three types; bound books, bookleted boat plans or data sheets. Unlike many vendors, we have carefully researched our nautical products and so we can provide a description, often with pictures, of each craft or subject. contact D.N.Goodchild phone number is southeast corner of Pennsylvania Lots of interesting titles - but one filled a hole in by library I figured that it was worth a $40 risk for a 1670 book with the sizes of spars and rigging. I ordered the book - paid using PatPal - the money was deducted from my account. No further communication from the vendor. No email, no book. I initiated an inquiry thru PayPal and after time and hoop jumping - but no response from the vendor - I received a full refund today. The book: Hardcover Elephant Folio THE BOATSWAIN'S ART, or THE COMPLETE BOATSWAIN by >Henry Bond, Teacher of Navigation, Surveying, and other parts of the Mathematicks, near Ratcliff-Cross. The Scale is made in Brass or Wood by Joseph Hone on Tower-Wharf. Wherin is shewed a true Proportion for the Masting, Yarding,a nd Rigging of any Ship, whose Length, Breadth, and Depth is known: with Rules for the Sizes and Lengths of all sorts of Rigging that belongs to any Ship. Also the use of an opening Scale, that if the length of the Main Mast be put upon it with a pair of Compasses, you may measure upon the Scale the Lengths and Thickness of all the other Masts and Yards; and also the Sizes, the Lengths and the number of Fathoms of every Size for the Rigging of any Ship, without altering the Scale. Also here is added a Plain and Easie Rule for Rigging andy Ship by the Length of its own Masts and Yards. London, Printed by W. Godbid, for William Fisher at the Postern-Gate near Tower-Hill, and Benjamin Hurlock over against St. Magnus-Church on London-Bridge near Thmes-Street. 1670 So goes the title page for this substantive and influential early work on ship-building, rigging and management, originally published in1670. Our reprint retains the type style and form of the original and is completely reset in that style, with the exception of the extender "s'ses", e.g., (from above) "Wherein is fhewed a true Proportion for the Mafting, Yarding, and Rigging of any Ship, whofe . . . etc." All other seventeenth century attributes and spelling are retained however. An example of the original title page and that of our reprint is shown below. Included in the compilation are "A Plain and Easie Rule" (1676) as mentioned above and also "The Sizes and Lengths of Rigging for all His Majesties Ships and Frigats." (1660) Henry Bond, Wm. Fisher & Edward Hayward, 105 pages SOME OTHER TITLES OF varying relivance Square Rig MARINE ... Diderot's Maritime Volume from the great Encyclopedia of he an d'Alembert. (Fifteenth and Sixteenth Century) Dideriot and D'Alembert, 100 pages, Pub No. 0052 MASTING; MASTMAKING; AND RIGGING OF SHIPS ... also Tables of Spars, Rigging, Blocks, Chain, Wire and Hemp Ropes, etc., relative to every class of vessel. Robert Kipping, 236 pages, Pub No. 0054 SEAMAN'S FRIEND, THE ... A Treatise on Practical Seamanship; A Dictionary of Sea Terms; Customs and Usages of the Merchant Service; and Laws. Richard Henry Dana, 275 pages, Pub No. 0055 STEEL'S ELEMENTS OF MAST-MAKING; SAIL-MAKING . . ... A "must-have" text for the serious modeler and anyone with a ship-of-the-line or a frigate. Claude S. Gill, 300 pages, Pub No. 0056 YOUNG SEA OFFICER'S SHEET ANCHOR, THE ... The first real seaman's manual. d Arcy Lever, 255 pages, Pub No. 0057 KEDGE ANCHOR OR YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT, THE ... Appertaining to the Practical Evolutions of Modern Seamanship, Rigging, Knotting, Splicing, Blocs, Purchases, Running-Rigging William Brady, 400 pages, Pub No. 0096 OLD WOODEN WALLS, THE ... Their construction, equipment, etc. Being an abridged edition of the Falconer's celebrated Marine Dictionary. Claude S. Gill, 202 pages, Pub No. 0282 BOATSWAIN'S ART, OR COMPLETE BOATSWAIN, THE ... Rigging ships in 1670 -" the masting, yarding and rigging of any ship whose length, breadth and depth is known." Henry Bond, Wm. Fisher & Edward Hayward, 105 pages, Pub No. 0284 COMPLETE SHIPWRIGHT, THE ... "Plainly & demonstratively teaching the proportions used by experienced shipwrights according to their custom of building." Edmund Bushnell, 76 pages, Pub No. 0285 NOSE AGAINST THE GLASS IS FRUSTRATING! Are we dealing with another Norwegian Blue Parrot here?

Rather than balance the rail on a knife edge and have a problem with its horizontal orientation, I would probably fix the timber heads first. If they are timber heads in the original construction, My shipyard would have left the sides perpendicular to the centerline. Check the plans for the shape. If cant frames were used ( probably fore only ) they would likely have the angle of the cant. The rail would have a 3 point base and a significantly more secure bond.

The angles at the bow are far from as bad as they could be and most commonly are. 1. Do not try to use one piece to be the rail. Outside of Redwoods et al. normal trees do not grow that tall, that clear and straight. The joins were not a straight butt either. The scarph is more involved. By using pieces, with the curves sawn, instead of bent, no spring back will occur. The wood will not "want" to return to its natural shape. 2. Given the curve in question, you may get by using the kit supplied material. For a serious curve, a wider piece of stock ( at least for a buff bow ) is used and the actual rail is spilled from it. Alternatively, a wider piece of wood of an appropriate species (Maple, Cherry, Pear, etc.) that is the needed thickness would be bought. It would surprise me if your kit supplied species takes to scraping the outboard OoGee or whatever pattern into it. The harder, tighter species do this much better. The color can be adjusted by using a wood dye. Bending: wet heat works best. The water - steam transfers heat to the interior faster and more efficiently than dry. No matter what you read, no sort of ammonia that you can access will aid in bending wood. What did that was anhydrous ammonia, commercial only, explosive, toxic,dangerous and it would probably dissolve you if you got on you. The household ammonia cleaner will only discolor and deform the surface fibers of wood.

Hank, If the spacing and thickness of the floor joists leave something to be desired, perhaps another layer of subflooring - with staggered seams., first? If you use long countersink drywall screws, it can be undone, or later repurposed. Under the bottom shelf on the left and under the cabinets on the right, at first I thought, under the cabinet lights, but they look long enough that a full on 4 foot LED ceiling fixture would fit. They are so light weight and pull so little current that a couple of big boys should work. And a large, wall mounted, battery powered clock. Some of them "talk" to the Bureau of Standards everyday a self correct- who knows, maybe they work for the NSA too?

I would not insure that one, or pay a private yard if it was a navy contract build. 2-3-4 are on adjacent beams and touch. So is 1-5 At least they are not all butting on the same beam, or every other one, as I saw recently. But it is likely a mistake in any case. With a sequence with 5 and 1 at the ends, it can never work.

The ASA ( now ABS ) published their first set of rules in 1870. They came into existence in 1862. Their initial focus was the qualifications of ship captains. I would be more than surprised if their rules were not a direct swipe from Lloyd's of London, who have been doing this since the middle of the 17th C. We do not have a problem with getting timber that is long enough. Using planks that are longer than 40 feet - southern US coastal Pine was tall and straight - until they cut it all down - and before 1775 the RN could use it also - anyway - longer than 40 feet in scale is a more common mistake. Why not use 40 feet as the length, and a proper 4 strake pattern? It would be best practice for any country. It would be what they did if they could or were not running a con. The strength of wood when exposed to the force of the sea is not subject to a national fashion or the century. When larger wooden hulls were first being developed, they learned pretty quickly when they got it wrong. The sea does not forgive foolish mistakes.

I have an old Model Boats #2 catalog - English and from 1970 or earlier. It features plans for pond boats and other adaptations of sailing ships for actual use in water. The point and take home lesson from it is that the physics and physical properties of water do not scale. In order to sail and not turn turtle, the hulls have to be adapted to a different shape. It looks like the hulls are much deeper below the waterline and may also have more beam, than the prototype. It does not look like the adaptations are much like a scaled down version of the original below the waterline. I suspect that there is serious engineering design, rules, and principles involved in this sort of adaptation. I well may be wrong about this, but there may be more to this than simply scaling the hull of a scale model.

Dan, If you look at SpyGlass' photo, you will see drifts of wood scrapings. A vac will get most of it, but a solvent rub will get what is left. SpyGlass was not saying not to apply a clear finish, he was saying it is good to: Mask - blue painters tape or green frog tape or the old crepe paper masking tape if you must. Cover any areas that will have wood glued to it, but just those areas and maybe a hair less. So that there is not a bare zone outside the glued on structure - neat looks and all that. . PVA bonds to porous surfaces - the polymers invade the substance of the wood. A smooth glassy surface = no bond. Now, you can prime and coat the whole deck with shellac, and then scrape the shellac off of the bonding sites, but it takes real talent and skill not to take off too much or scrape too deeply. Prevention is easier. Commercial varnish vs shellac - mostly a personal preference situation. But most varnishes work better if the surface is primed first. The common and traditional primer for other clear finishes or paint is half strength shellac. You really have to work hard to find something that is not compatible with shellac. Old style varnish is boiled ( cooked to polymerize it - so that it will dry in your lifetime) linseed oil in mineral spirits. Modern stuff is plastic ( like polyurethane ) in either mineral spirits or lately water. It tends to be both thicker than shellac and glossy. If you apply 10 coats, shellac can be glossy too. It is just not a look that you want for this type of surface. Buffing the surface of a clear coated surface, before the next coat, produces a smoother and better looking surface. Tradition is to use 0000 steel wool. BUT, steel wool leaves bits of itself behind. If it is not totally removed, the steel residue can rust and stain a model. Shellac is soft enough that a plastic abrasive pad will smooth it without having to worry about rust.

That is exactly what I recommend that you use. For the first coat, cut some it 50:50 with shellac thinner. Long ago and far away, that used to be methanol - wood alcohol - but if your drink it, your liver metabolizes it to formaldehyde - and you die. It all seems to be ethanol now - with a trace of something noxious and emetic - and is called denatured alcohol. Drug store alcohol has too much water and water turns shellac white. That is why shellac is not used on tabletops - not everyone uses a coaster. My local hardware has this brand and pints or quarts of denatured alcohol. I checked Home Depot and Slowes - they only list quarts of Zinsser. I go the hardware store route. An old tee shirt square is as good as anything else for application. The first coat will just soak it and not leave all that much on the surface. The next full strength coat will cover the surface, but it is not thick enough material to need skilled brush application. a soft rag is enough. Alcohol repairs mistakes and a Scotch-Brite pad will smooth the surface, if needed. You can use a single edge razor blade to to smooth the surface, with an alcohol cleaning, before you apply any shellac. But if you have open pores, the dust from using sand paper may fill them some. Scrapping does not leave any residue behind.

I have no direct experience with plaster of paris as a filler. I remember it from a book on fine furniture finishing. I thought it strange too. The best I could speculate about it is that the particles are translucent when exposed to shellac. Otherwise, Black Walnut would look like it had white measles. .... I checked my library and I can't find it. It may have been pumice. Anyway, it was so startling that it stuck with me. "Never mind." It is better to never use a species of wood where a coat of half cut shellac is not an effective sealer.

strakes #3 and #4 butts are on adjacent beams.

The only way I can see that there can be 5 numbers in a four butt shift is if the four refers to the number of planks between two planks having their butt on the same beam. The repeating sequence actually involves five planks. The first picture above, numbering from the top down = Beam 1 - beam 3 - beam 5 - beam 2 - beam 4 The second, top down = beam 1 - beam 4 - beam 2 - beam 3 The American "Lloyds" ASA 1870 " No butts of adjoining plank should be nearer each other than the space of two beams ( when a stake intervenes the distance of one beam will be allowed). No butts should meet on the same beam unless there be three stakes between them." The second picture fails that rule.

A light colored vinyl tile flooring, that is peel and stick should be quick, easy for rolling stools and machine stands, and give a better chance of recovering dropped or jumping parts, as well as helping with the lighting. Wet swabbing or a ruff leak - a blue million seams would not be good for the subfloor. By using Liquid Nails, it seems that you do not share Moriarty's philosophy of having a reverse gear faster than the forward gears.